[MASHCT]

I recently installed CDT Audio's Upstage system, UP 2100i. (http://cdtaudio.com/upstage/up2100i.php) There is also UP 5100i - I contacted CDT to ask what the difference is between the two (besides the $100 price) and they advise it's power handling capability of the M500 xover, that's it.

I would say for $149 & a few hours' time for installation (which was pretty easy) this is a big bang-for-buck improvement.

You don't need CDT Audio speakers to do this mod. The Upstage system works with any speaker system. I think you DO need a DSP with EQ; the more bands the better.

This Upstage system is highly configurable with 30 total settings. I found that I didn't have to test all 30 to find the ideal. Out the gate, I could rule out using the "High" output terminals - way too much/bright for our close quarters (at least to me).

After a week using the "Low" terminals - which I like - I am thinking about trying the "Medium" output terminals just to see if there is any improvement (not just louder highs).

After installing the system, I have not "retuned" my system via the JL Audio TWK88 yet. I'll do that after I figure out Low vs Medium outputs.

What this system is:

- 2 silk-dome tweeters, L/R, that are mounted on the windshield at the top of the a-pillar. Aimed at a 45 deg angle in the corner, pointed towards the center of the dash. The idea is that sound is dispersed across the windshield.

- A special crossover/module that takes the speaker outs & sends two signals: one to the crossover for your midwoofer & tweeter, & one to the image tweeter.

What the system does:

- DEFINITELY moves the soundstage "up" from the doors/dash to above the dash, in front of you. I notice it the most with drums & vocals, & it's pretty pronounced. In-the-car with me vocals at times & similar effect with instrumental acoustic guitar music. I mostly listen to hard rock, progressive, metal. This speaker system brings out the best in well-engineered recordings.

But in the midrange, you can still "locate" the speakers are to a degree. This depends a lot on the music & how it was recorded/engineered too. I find some songs where the speakers disappear & others where the midwoofers are locatable.

I would bet the introduction of the tweeter high up on the a-pillar messed a little with the time alignment settings in the DSP though, too.

- It does not muddy nor confuse the soundstage. If anything, it introduced more clarity.

- Obviously, it increases the highs & affects the mids, too. Some music there is a harshness, but I think it's my current EQ settings. This system will also highlight what makes a poorly engineered recording sound so bad (think, earliest Megadeth releases). When I originally tuned my system using a pink noise generator & calibrated mic through my iPad, my car was shallow on the mids & low-highs. I had to cut low-end mids, upper highs & slightly boost some mids/low highs. These speakers seem to play loudly in that range so I may be able to get rid of those corrections now. I may need to cut something in there, too.

But again, pristine, well engineered recordings sound incredible.

Installation tips:

If you decide to do this mod & need installation help, PM me.

1) You will need thin gauge speaker wire to make the run through the door & into the car through the wiring connector. There is a hole in this connector on the door side, and on the one in the car-side. I passed the wire through these holes & was able to plug the connector back in. There are no visible wires through the door & into the car.

I can't take pics of the holes because of where they are. You will feel it though; it's at the bottom of the connector. I managed to get standard speaker wires through these holes, but it was tough & drove me crazy. I was too lazy to go out & get thinner wire.

2) If you want to do this mod, and you do not have panel removal tools - get them. They're cheap ($8 on amazon or ebay) and they work perfectly.

3) You will need to remove the a-pillar cover, the door panel, the wiring connector in the door, the plastic door sill cover, the lower dash panels and the kick-plates to do this install.

4) My door speaker replacements have a separate crossover that is as big as the M200 module in the Upstage system. Both X-overs fit & are mounted behind & on the door panel. I secured them with industrial Velcro. They are rock-solid & do not rattle.

5) You will need fishing tape, a hanger.. something to pull the wire up from the kick-plate/footwell area to above the dash.

[sethwas]

I followed your build thread earlier - does this setup replace the tweeters in door/sail panel or work in addition to?

also - this was a creative use of the upstage in the center location:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...28&postcount=1

[sethwas]

I found the answer - it is in addition to the tweeters in your door. So you have 2 tweeters on each side. However it has a crossover rolling the highs off the door side tweeters leaving them for just the ones up top.

Seth