[m235iMike]

Does anybody have any writeup on how they took off the spoiler and installed the M performance spoiler?

[NEUE02]

Originally Posted by m235iMike

Does anybody have any writeup on how they took off the spoiler and installed the M performance spoiler?

I have a few pics of my install here in this thread...
http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...hlight=Spoiler

[BEM-S4]

Do yourself a favor and mask off a few reference points before removing the stock one, because you know that's on there straight. Even if the new one is slightly different, at least you'll have some easy spots to measure off as a guide.

[haloeight]

I've been going through threads / videos / how to's myself as I'm about to do the same tonight. Compiling some notes:

Pro Install: Some people have gone the route of just having an auto body shop doing the work. Ones I've called said they won't do it if not OEM, other people have found their dealership willing to do the work or finding a tech who does installs on the side for around $75.

Some articles / videos / threads:

Neu02's install thread linked above, ehagerty also had a thread, Yolo89 also described his process

Google video search https://www.google.ca/search?q=3m+do...r+installation
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-art...foam-tape.html
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=889437
http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...hlight=spoiler
http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...hlight=spoiler

Steps

1. Remove Existing Spoiler

- Use dental floss or fishing line to separate the adhesive from the existing.
- One of the articles above splits the adhesive initially with dental floss then finishes the job by using a microfiber cloth to separate.
- Having someone else help lift the spoiler while separating can help.
- Some people use a heat gun or hair dryer at this point to warm up the adhesive but this can damage paint.

2. Remove Existing Adhesive

- Most people find the "push" / "roll" technique to get the remaining adhesive off to be most effective
- Heat gun / blow drye rat this stage can help, although some found better results cold
- Most recommend using Goo Gone only during final clean up / after rolling off the majority - some found Goo Gone at first took 2 hours of scrubbing when the job should take 30-40 minutes.
- Some have found Turtle Wax Sticker Remover (5 minute job) and 3M Adhesive Remover to be more effective, another person found a citrus based non abrasive adhesive remover to work very well
- Some used as plastic razor blade scraper e.g. Scraprite

3. Prep to install new spoiler
- Use 3M automotive double sided tape on the underside of the spoiler - industrial strength version (seems to be labelled "Super Strength", unless I'm looking at the wrong product). Often labelled Molding tape. Comes in red, about 1" width, although I am finding there is a 1/2" width as well. Betalink is used as a permanent solution by some but can cause problems with the paint.
- Make sure to put adhesive tape all the way to the edges, otherwise there will be gaps / play in the install
- Make sure the surfaces are clean - wash, alcohol based solution and maybe clay bar the surface of the trunk
- General recommendation to line up the spoiler and mark the optimal alignment with masking tape / removable marker before removing the adhesive on the double sided tape

4. Install new spoiler

- There is a technique to remove just one part of the double sided tape backing and get one corner placed, then gradually remove the rest of the backing while securing the spoiler - described in one of the video links above. This may be easier than trying to nail the placement exactly while all the double sided tape is exposed. Redoing the job is probably a PITA
- Once you have it lined up properly, apply pressure to secure
- Use masking tape / painters tape to hold in place for a few hours if you want

[NEUE02]

^^^The above is a great compilation of different techniques. Some more thoughts:

-if you plan to get an OEM M Performace spoiler they come with the adhesive tape already installed on the underside.

-The M Performace spoiler has a differently shaped base than the stock OEM spoiler. It actually physically sets slightly over the curve of the edge of the trunk lid on right and left side. See photo below. (But not in the center section which notches inward slightly.) When you place it properly you can feel it settle perfectly in place fore and aft. It's subtle so you need to practice this placement to get the feel before you pull off the adhesive covers and stick it down for good. (Put tape on the trunk to mark the leading edge of the spoiler and help you find this sweet spot when the tape is off.) Once you feel this it becomes obvious where to position the spoiler and makes it much easier. Less guess work.

Then you just need to carefully measure the side to side distance (My detail pic shown above) so they are equal. Laying tape down on the outside edge of the trunk is the best way.

-It's easier and more accurate to have a friend assist with the placement after you get it all marked. Again, I placed it, marked it with tape and then practiced the placement technique before I did it for good.

-I found removing all the tape backing at once was the way to go.

-Once you apply pressure it's set and you are done. There is no need to hold anything down afterward with tape.

[haloeight]

Installed mine tonight. Here my damned novel with pictures for any other noobs who haven't done this before and thinking about doing the same.

Materials:
RW Carbon F22 CF Spoiler
30 lb. fishing line
3M Adhesive Remover Spray
2 rolls 1/2 inch width 3M Super Strength Double Sided Moulding Tape (Red)
3M Automotive Masking Tape (Green)
Microfiber cloths
91% alcohol

1. Remove Existing Spoiler

I washed my car in an automatic wash (no wax, just wash)

I used fishing line instead of dental floss and was surprised how well it worked. Wrapped my hands and sawed gently / garrotted (I've always wanted to use that verb without necessarily killing someone like in a mobster movies) through the adhesive on the stock spoiler - took no more than 30 seconds. Then pulled the stock spoiler off - came off easy.

2. Remove Existing Adhesive

Initially I tried rolling the adhesive off but found it was a bit resistant (evening temperature is around 14-18 degrees celsius). I can see how people get blisters this way.

I then tried 3M Adhesive Remover sprayed onto a cotton washcloth, then rubbed onto the adhesive - this improved ease of removal. After I saw how much better this worked, I sprayed the Adhesive Remover directly onto the remaining adhesive, then wiped off the excess / made sure it didn't dribble down and get into anything on the trunk fascia that might be held with adhesive. If you don't remove the excess Adhesive Remover it's a little too slippery to roll off the adhesive.

This made things a lot easier and I spent at most 15 minutes rolling the majority of the adhesive off - was expecting this to be way worse. You can vary your thumbs / fingers to prevent blisters. I found it worked best to stay parallel to the surface as possible, rolling the top layer of the adhesive first, then rolling back and forth to get the bottom layer. You end up with some adhesive boogers you can flick if you want to relive the offensive thrills of picking your nose. Seriously though clean that up.

With the majority rolled off, I then sprayed the 3M Adhesive Remover onto a microfiber cloth and removed the residual adhesive. It looks like nothing is there. A circular motion is more effective than side to side. Wax on wax off, Daniel San.

Here's a pic of what it looked like when this step was done:



I did not need to use a heat gun or blow dryer - came off way easier than expected. I had also purchased Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover thinking it might be similar to the Turtle Tax Adhesive Remover that I couldn't find in stores, but this was unnecessary, the 3M worked a treat.


3. Prep New Spoiler For Install

I found the 3M 1/2 inch double sided Super Strength Molding Tape to be more useful than the inch wide tape - I bought two rolls of each "just in case". I'm glad I got two rolls because to do the front edge and back edge of the spoiler it took 1.5 rolls and gives you some room to screw up.

At first I cut segments of tape to follow the curvature of the spoiler, but then I found it was easier to just unspool the tape from the roll and apply in a continuous segment, changing the curve of the tape until it was necessary to cut a segment. If I did it again I'd try to go for unspooling the roll wherever possible rather than cutting segments. Easier to put down that way.

Front edge has more cut segments, back edge has a longer continuous segment with some cut segments near the corners:



There is a lip on the back edge of the spoiler that makes it easy to get a visual guide when applying the tape.

The outside front corners were a bit of a hash as I didn't get the tape right up to the edge. The ideal method here might have been to cut shaped pieces for the end - i.e. extend the tape past the outer edge of the spoiler then use a knife or scissors to trim right up to the edge. Don't know if this will cause any problems as weather / washings accumulate and possibly get in this gap, as looking at the underside of the stock spoiler they get pretty close to the edge on the outside corners. We'll see - if anyone has any advice would appreciate it.



4. Install New Spoiler

Then I prepped the surface of the trunk with 91% alcohol on a microfiber cloth, drying up the excess. Didn't bother with ca lay bar or washing, figured the alcohol would be enough to clean off any residual 3M Adhesive Remover.

Best piece of advice from NEUE02 and others was using masking tape to make a target to hit when setting the spoiler for good. Without removing the double sided tape backing, I placed the spoiler on the trunk to check fitment. Found it fit best with a little gap on either of the outside edges, balanced on both sides.

Then checked the mating between the bottom of the spoiler and top back edge of the trunk. Felt pretty smooth and even, there wasn't any apparent gap or overhang, the transition between the spoiler and the edge of the trunk seemed good enough.

I created a triangular point target for each of the outside front edges as I thought this would give an easy target. I then also placed a tape marker in the middle front edge of the spoiler just to give another orientation point.



Removed the adhesive backing (here again the longer continuous segment was easier to work with than the individual cut segments). Can see it being useful to bring tweezers or pliers since us dudes don't have finger nails. I didn't try the technique of partial removal of the adhesive backing, just removed all the backings and aimed for the masking tape targets I created.

Then the moment of truth - initial placement was a little off, but pulled off the spoiler quickly to reset. The tape did pull a bit here but could be easily repositioned as I didn't use heavy pressure when trying to get the initial placement. Got it on the second shot - I can see how this might be easier with two people but eye balling the pointed corner targets help me get it fine. When I saw that it hit the left, center and right targets, I ran my thumb over the front edge then my palms over the back edge to secure the tape. Felt pretty good and stable, didn't bother with masking tape to secure. Cleaned up with rubbing alcohol / microfiber cloth.

































All said it took about an hour from start to finish, with a couple breaks in between the major steps above. I'm sure this can be pulled off faster, I was just going carefully and haven't done this before.

Next step is CQuartz Finest on the entire vehicle now that I've installed the spoiler.

Hope this helps whoever may be thinking about doing the same and/or is an effective sleep aid. Thanks to all those who posted their installation process and comments as well as Eric from RW Carbon for fielding some dumb questions.

[NEUE02]

^^^^ Awesome!

[icin235]

Having trouble getting the adhesive off the top of the trunk? Read this:

1. Use dental floss and a heat gun to remove stock spoiler. Works great. Takes 5-10 mins.
2. Put Goo Gone on tape/adhesive left on trunk. The longer the better. I recommend 6 hours.
3. After that, most of the tape will come off by just rubbing your finger on it.
4. The secret ingredient for the leftover adhesive is a 3M Adhesive removal wheel. Makes this job WAY easier. Well worth the $26.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...3VVN0EF21N5QJ7

[hwntime]

I'd also highly recommend using 3M Adhesion Promoter to help set and a clay bar for prep. I weighted mine down with 10lbs plates and let it sit overnight.