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      12-27-2020, 04:37 AM   #1
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Not sure if I should post this here or in suspension but.. seem to be having an issue with uneven tire wear. Attached are the front two. The one with the cords showing is the front right. 8,000 miles (mostly spirited city driving) on stock tires with factory alignment. Wondering if this is 1. An issue with alignment (as in the alignment was messed up and caused the uneven wear) or 2. Im cornering too aggressively and need more camber. Feedback is much appreciated!
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      12-27-2020, 08:58 AM   #2
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I've got a 228i '15. outside tread wear is higher than most cars on the front tires. so your experiences track as far as my opinion. what it looks like happened is your tires are wearing extremely quickly. the tire without cords showing looks like it needed to be changed a while a go, looks just above bald. the tire with the cords is, well, beyond bald.

I'd get the alignment checked and then watch your treads more closely. best of luck!
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      12-27-2020, 09:14 AM   #3
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I had increased (rapid) outside shoulder wear on my Michelin pilot sport summer tire (235).

I had nails and pothole sidewall damage so tires were replaced before any wearing thru.
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      12-27-2020, 02:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delvec03 View Post
I've got a 228i '15. outside tread wear is higher than most cars on the front tires. so your experiences track as far as my opinion. what it looks like happened is your tires are wearing extremely quickly. the tire without cords showing looks like it needed to be changed a while a go, looks just above bald. the tire with the cords is, well, beyond bald.

I'd get the alignment checked and then watch your treads more closely. best of luck!
It's very unfortunate. I have not driven the car on track but I push it pretty hard on the street. Still I was not expecting something like this. At my 5k oil change service, they quoted me for two rear tires (they were "at 3mm") but I declined because they weren't that bad. If i remember, I did notice the outsides of the front tires were wearing more but nothing extreme enough to make me think there is a problem with alignment or anything.... untill I recently noticed the cords. I know PSS has a soft tire wall and the camber is not adjustable stock... So what are the options/ solutions in correcting this? I will be getting an alignment anyway when I replace the tires, so I can ask for a before and after sheet to see if somethings messed up, but the car is new and I haven't hit any major potholes or anything.
Would M3/M4 LCA help this or camber plates? I thought more camber would only be necessary for track driving but I seem to be pushing the limits on the street. I would love to get 10k miles out of a set and want to avoid this in the future.
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      12-27-2020, 02:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottSinger View Post
I had increased (rapid) outside shoulder wear on my Michelin pilot sport summer tire (235).

I had nails and pothole sidewall damage so tires were replaced before any wearing thru.
Have you found a solution to reduce or eliminate this issue?
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      12-27-2020, 03:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kianf22 View Post
Have you found a solution to reduce or eliminate this issue?

At 46.000 miles I've probably been thru 8 front tires.
Due to lots of factors .
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      12-27-2020, 04:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottSinger View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kianf22 View Post
Have you found a solution to reduce or eliminate this issue?

At 46.000 miles I've probably been thru 8 front tires.
Due to lots of factors .
Damn man.. obviously nails and things of that nature are hard to avoid but I don't see myself paying for new michelin tires every 5-10k miles due to wear like this. If there's no good solution via LCA/camber plates then I may consider switching to a cheaper tire and/or going with a square setup and rotating. In my opinion, the wear I'm experiencing is unreasonable for my driving habits.
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      12-27-2020, 04:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kianf22 View Post
Damn man.. obviously nails and things of that nature are hard to avoid but I don't see myself paying for new michelin tires every 5-10k miles due to wear like this. If there's no good solution via LCA/camber plates then I may consider switching to a cheaper tire and/or going with a square setup and rotating. In my opinion, the wear I'm experiencing is unreasonable for my driving habits.
your right front looks like a chunking cupping situation.
right front suspension can take a beating from curbs.

though if you've been cornering hard on 32 psi that could be the result but the cornering would have to have been intense.

after looking at your drivers side - I'd definitely do an alignment no matter what you decide
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      12-27-2020, 05:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottSinger View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kianf22 View Post
Damn man.. obviously nails and things of that nature are hard to avoid but I don't see myself paying for new michelin tires every 5-10k miles due to wear like this. If there's no good solution via LCA/camber plates then I may consider switching to a cheaper tire and/or going with a square setup and rotating. In my opinion, the wear I'm experiencing is unreasonable for my driving habits.
your right front looks like a chunking cupping situation.
right front suspension can take a beating from curbs.

though if you've been cornering hard on 32 psi that could be the result but the cornering would have to have been intense.

after looking at your drivers side - I'd definitely do an alignment no matter what you decide
That's what is confusing me.. I wouldn't say I corner abnormally hard.. And I'm throwing out worn suspension components as the car only has 8,000 miles on it. I also live somewhere with mostly well paved roads. Hmmmm.. could it be an alignment issue? I haven't touched anything that would alter it as it came from factory.
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      12-27-2020, 06:06 PM   #10
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when u get new tires or (wheel package for square) definitely have an alignment.

may be cheaper to just get tires and not new wheels. find a good BMW dealer for tire mounting and alignment - with the issue your having not sure I'd start going elsewhere. Price tires from Tirerack or Discount tire or see if dealer will match tirerack/Discount Tire prices.

Are you getting new tires this week ?

Also maybe modify your driving. If your doing a lot of understeering turns or braking hard with wheels heavily turned then modify to trail braking. Look in your owners manual for tire pressure for 100+ mph sustained speeds and maybe pump your tire pressure a bit.

Last edited by overcoil; 12-27-2020 at 06:11 PM..
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      12-27-2020, 06:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kianf22 View Post
Would M3/M4 LCA help this or camber plates? I thought more camber would only be necessary for track driving but I seem to be pushing the limits on the street. I would love to get 10k miles out of a set and want to avoid this in the future.
Your tires look like those that other members have posted after a day or two at the track.

My recommendations are:

0) Have the alignment checked (my guess is that it will prove to be within spec)
1) Choose camber plates for their greater flexibility
2) Start with camber of -2.0° F and -1.5° R
3) Have new tires installed

And, if it works for you financially, get a wider front wheel and tire combination, as our cars are woefully under-tired in the front.

My opinion is that 245s on 9" wheels is the sweet spot; e.g., a square setup with 245/40-17 MPS4S on 17X9s. BMW gave us remarkably narrow wheels given how much power these cars have. If you never lean on the car, of course, you'll never notice this limitation. But that's not what we're about here, is it.

These changes will make a significant difference in how your car responds to your steering inputs. Based upon your photos, and in the absence of an alignment issue, your car has been understeering noticeably since you got it.
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      12-27-2020, 06:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottSinger View Post
when u get new tires or (wheel package for square) definitely have an alignment.

may be cheaper to just get tires and not new wheels. find a good BMW dealer for tire mounting and alignment - with the issue your having not sure I'd start going elsewhere. Price tires from Tirerack or Discount tire or see if dealer will match tirerack/Discount Tire prices.

Are you getting new tires this week ?

Also maybe modify your driving. If your doing a lot of understeering turns or braking hard with wheels heavily turned then modify to trail braking. Look in your owners manual fir tire pressure for 100+ mph sustained speeds and maybe pump your tire pressure a bit.
Hey thanks for all the tips man, will definitely check on that price match. Yeah, since my rears were already worn, and now the fronts are cording/bald, I'm definitely due for 4 new tires and alignment. I'd like to get them this week, but if I wanted to switch to a square setup I'd have to wait longer.

In regards to my driving habits, I really don't think I'm doing what you're describing. I brake hard coming into the turn and once I've slowed down enough, I take the turn at what I'd think is normal speed. But I rarely if ever brake hard while turning hard and understeer hasn't been an issue. My tires could probably use a little bit more air but I thought if this was an issue with under inflation that the insides would be worn as well.

This makes me think that maybe I should start looking at a new setup, (suspension mods or different wheel setup) because I'd hate to have this happen again in another 5-8k miles.
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      12-27-2020, 06:22 PM   #13
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Be extremely careful driving on those tires.
That front tire could either pop or tread delaminate any time.

I wouldn't drive over forty mph with that tire !!!!!
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      12-27-2020, 06:23 PM   #14
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maybe not over 30mph for less than ten of fifteen minutes - Seriously.
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      12-27-2020, 06:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kianf22 View Post
Would M3/M4 LCA help this or camber plates? I thought more camber would only be necessary for track driving but I seem to be pushing the limits on the street. I would love to get 10k miles out of a set and want to avoid this in the future.
Your tires look like those that other members have posted after a day or two at the track.

My recommendations are:

0) Have the alignment checked (my guess is that it will prove to be within spec)
1) Choose camber plates for their greater flexibility
2) Start with camber of -2.0° F and -1.5° R
3) Have new tires installed

And, if it works for you financially, get a wider front wheel and tire combination, as our cars are woefully under-tired in the front.

My opinion is that 245s on 9" wheels is the sweet spot; e.g., a square setup with 245/40-17 MPS4S on 17X9s. BMW gave us remarkably narrow wheels given how much power these cars have. If you never lean on the car, of course, you'll never notice this limitation. But that's not what we're about here, is it.

These changes will make a significant difference in how your car responds to your steering inputs. Based upon your photos, and in the absence of an alignment issue, your car has been understeering noticeably since you got it.
I guess I'm driving harder than I thought I will definitely have the alignment checked. If I check and it turns out be within speck, what camber plates do you recommend? I was going to drop the car with dinan springs (open to other options though)... I know they also make camber plates but not sure if their "warranty" applies to that as well. The other options as I understand are vorshlag and ground control? This car is a daily driver so I was trying to avoid camber plates because of the NVH, but if it's what I have to do to avoid having my tires corded then I will get them. Improved steering feel would also be great.

I'm also really interested in a square 245 setup with 17s! Are you currently running that?

Thanks a ton for the reply!
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      12-27-2020, 06:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottSinger View Post
maybe not over 30mph for less than ten of fifteen minutes - Seriously.
Thanks for the heads up! Yeah they're really sketching me out. Will look for an alignment place close by and be super careful. Will not comment on the speeds I was going that same day before I noticed it
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      12-27-2020, 11:22 PM   #17
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LCA gives you around -1.8 in the front..... I don't wear the outside anymore.... if anything I wear the inside more now on street tires.... track tires still wear the outside more than the inside but much less than without the LCA
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      12-28-2020, 12:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikcachu View Post
LCA gives you around -1.8 in the front..... I don't wear the outside anymore.... if anything I wear the inside more now on street tires.... track tires still wear the outside more than the inside but much less than without the LCA
Hey thanks for the reply, I've seen you a lot around the forum while researching different things! Are you recommending LCA by itself or paired with TS? I understand they may also cause clearance issues.. to what extent though?

I know the LCA and TS combo would be more expensive, so it would suck to go with that and still have issues with outside tire wear if I require more camber than the LCA and TS allow. But NVH from camber plates also seems annoying, I've seen some clips of the Vorshlags in another thread. It seems I will have to compromise somewhere
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      12-28-2020, 11:00 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kianf22 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by pikcachu View Post
LCA gives you around -1.8 in the front..... I don't wear the outside anymore.... if anything I wear the inside more now on street tires.... track tires still wear the outside more than the inside but much less than without the LCA
Hey thanks for the reply, I've seen you a lot around the forum while researching different things! Are you recommending LCA by itself or paired with TS? I understand they may also cause clearance issues.. to what extent though?

I know the LCA and TS combo would be more expensive, so it would suck to go with that and still have issues with outside tire wear if I require more camber than the LCA and TS allow. But NVH from camber plates also seems annoying, I've seen some clips of the Vorshlags in another thread. It seems I will have to compromise somewhere
I have just the LCa without ts
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      12-28-2020, 12:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kianf22 View Post
what camber plates do you recommend? I was going to drop the car with dinan springs (open to other options though)... I know they also make camber plates but not sure if their "warranty" applies to that as well. The other options as I understand are vorshlag and ground control? This car is a daily driver so I was trying to avoid camber plates because of the NVH, but if it's what I have to do to avoid having my tires corded then I will get them. Improved steering feel would also be great.

I'm also really interested in a square 245 setup with 17s! Are you currently running that?
My only experience with camber plates on my car are the ones that came with the coilovers I got from TC Kline Racing. According to forum sponsor HP Autosport in Santa Barbara, those coilovers are no longer available. I don't know if TCK sells the camber plates separately, or if they work with the stock struts.

The TCK camber plates and/or the front coilovers did add a bit of NVH, but nowhere near enough to put me off. The improved driving dynamics far outweigh the moderate amount of added noise. Another driver might feel differently, of course.

I had the installation done at TCK. We installed 2-way shocks in the rear, but they recommended 1-way struts in front, saying the NVH would be too much on the street if we put 2-ways in front, too.

My summer setup is 255 PS4S on 18" wheels; the rest of the time I'm running stock size A/S 3+, also on 18" wheels. I installed an M Performance Brake Kit, which requires 18" wheels in front.

I think the main reason to choose 17" wheels is that they're generally lighter, which will make for a car that's more responsive to your inputs. They're also a bit cheaper, as are the tires.
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      12-28-2020, 01:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikcachu View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kianf22 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by pikcachu View Post
LCA gives you around -1.8 in the front..... I don't wear the outside anymore.... if anything I wear the inside more now on street tires.... track tires still wear the outside more than the inside but much less than without the LCA
Hey thanks for the reply, I've seen you a lot around the forum while researching different things! Are you recommending LCA by itself or paired with TS? I understand they may also cause clearance issues.. to what extent though?

I know the LCA and TS combo would be more expensive, so it would suck to go with that and still have issues with outside tire wear if I require more camber than the LCA and TS allow. But NVH from camber plates also seems annoying, I've seen some clips of the Vorshlags in another thread. It seems I will have to compromise somewhere
I have just the LCa without ts
Nice! Everyone mentions "clearance issues" but not to what extent. Do you think that would make a 245 square setup impossible?
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      12-28-2020, 01:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kianf22 View Post
what camber plates do you recommend? I was going to drop the car with dinan springs (open to other options though)... I know they also make camber plates but not sure if their "warranty" applies to that as well. The other options as I understand are vorshlag and ground control? This car is a daily driver so I was trying to avoid camber plates because of the NVH, but if it's what I have to do to avoid having my tires corded then I will get them. Improved steering feel would also be great.

I'm also really interested in a square 245 setup with 17s! Are you currently running that?
My only experience with camber plates on my car are the ones that came with the coilovers I got from TC Kline Racing. According to forum sponsor HP Autosport in Santa Barbara, those coilovers are no longer available. I don't know if TCK sells the camber plates separately, or if they work with the stock struts.

The TCK camber plates and/or the front coilovers did add a bit of NVH, but nowhere near enough to put me off. The improved driving dynamics far outweigh the moderate amount of added noise. Another driver might feel differently, of course.

I had the installation done at TCK. We installed 2-way shocks in the rear, but they recommended 1-way struts in front, saying the NVH would be too much on the street if we put 2-ways in front, too.

My summer setup is 255 PS4S on 18" wheels; the rest of the time I'm running stock size A/S 3+, also on 18" wheels. I installed an M Performance Brake Kit, which requires 18" wheels in front.

I think the main reason to choose 17" wheels is that they're generally lighter, which will make for a car that's more responsive to your inputs. They're also a bit cheaper, as are the tires.
Thanks for all the info! I hope my experience matches yours if I decide to go with camber plates. Don't mind a little noise that's not stock if it means more camber, but if my car sounds like a sh$&@!box from 1958 then I wouldn't be all too happy. Unfortunate that they don't make them anymore

Wow 255 square? With what kind of camber settings? The goal would be to eventually end up with a square setup, I was thinking of going for 245.
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