[orangeglim]

Originally Posted by Wagerd

Waking this thread up again -- had the same procedure of "friction rings." Haven't had ticking return, but seems that there's more scrub. I'm actually growing concerned there is something just wonky about the front suspension geometry on this car. Have had it out in cold weather, and get tire scrub when turning at low speeds -- don't notice it in warm weather, I assume because the tire is more pliable when warm & just wears out the outer edge (which is further evidence about something wonky about geometry). I've had an e30M3, e46 330i ZHP, e40 M3, and NONE of them ever wore out the outside of a tire like this car. Also, none of them had freaky tire clunking when reversing in a tight turn. Something just isn't right. Has anyone found a better suspension setup that perhaps puts less stress on the front components and perhaps reduces this clicking?

Both my front tires were quite worn on the outer shoulder. I attributed it to the alignment being off, but when I had it checked, only the right side was off, the left was near perfect. I've read about the clunking when reversing, but either mine doesn't do it, or, I don't know what to listen for. Still good here on the clicking though, haven't heard it since.

[simoneves]

Mine still free of clicking since left wheel bearing in August. I thought it came back on the right for a bit but it went away again.

I also get scrub and clunks when backing off my driveway on a cold morning. I put it down to cold PSS tires jumping on the concrete.

Both front tires now completely smooth on the outer 2". Still plenty of groove in the middle, though.

Dinan springs and A/S3's in the spring.

[Burgwood]

Does this clicking also effects any parts?
Or is it just an annoying noise?

[baege]

bringing this thread back to life!

so as per the last poster, is there any real issue with not having the noise looked at?

if it simply a matter of having the wheels cleaned every week, I'd rather just do that....

[Pbdeed]

I guess it´s just annoying noise.


I had that friction ring installed and noise disappeared!

[MidwayMuller]

I have the same clicking noise after switching the pads out to carbon ceramic. I've inspected it and driven 10k miles since the swap- it really does just seem like an annoyance vs something actually wrong with the car.

[KAY-OS]

Hello. Is this the same clicking / ticking sound u guys are hearing? If so, I will try those friction ring. Thanks!
https://youtube.com/shorts/1bm22gLtrFQ

[Pbdeed]

Kay-os, I had that exact sound and the friction rings solved it.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...9#post26540479

[KAY-OS]

Originally Posted by Pbdeed

Kay-os, I had that exact sound and the friction rings solved it.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...9#post26540479

Great thanks for ur reply! Let me order those friction rings and see if the noise goes away!

[KAY-OS]

So I brought the friction ring to the garage. They are certain the sound comes from between the outer brake disc and the wheel, instead of between the inner brake disc and wheel bearing flange. So they installed the friction plate between the outer brake disc and the wheel and the sound has dissappeared! Very strange but there's no more annoying ticking noise so I'm happy.

[fortythirtyfive]

Sorry to revive a pretty old thread but I recently came up against this on my F32 with newly installed B16's.

It took around a month or so for the noise to first appear, what I did find though was after jacking the car up the noise would always settle, it made me believe that it was definitely a noise after preload from more stress on oem hardware.

I'm about to order one of the friction plates to try out, however I thought it was worth sharing that I also diagnosed that some of the sound was coming from the pinch bolt. After a little research it seems Tommy L Garage also thinks this

I posted about it in a UK facebook group and a member/mechanic replied back that the pinch bolt is 100% worth replacing, along with a good clean around the joint between the shock and the hub. From his experience he has found the friction plates do nothing and 90% of the time the collar needs a good clean and a new pinch bolt.

[fortythirtyfive]

Originally Posted by KAY-OS

So I brought the friction ring to the garage. They are certain the sound comes from between the outer brake disc and the wheel, instead of between the inner brake disc and wheel bearing flange. So they installed the friction plate between the outer brake disc and the wheel and the sound has dissappeared! Very strange but there's no more annoying ticking noise so I'm happy.

Mine is back after trying new pinch bolts, greased up pinch bolts and the metal friction rings - super loud as well

You say you applied the friction rings to the outer disc, are you talking about actually placing this in-between where the wheel actually touches the disc?! From the TSB BMW recommends placing them behind the discs where they touch the hub

[KAY-OS]

Originally Posted by fortythirtyfive

Mine is back after trying new pinch bolts, greased up pinch bolts and the metal friction rings - super loud as well

You say you applied the friction rings to the outer disc, are you talking about actually placing this in-between where the wheel actually touches the disc?! From the TSB BMW recommends placing them behind the discs where they touch the hub

Yes. That is correct. Kinda like a mini spacer. And yes, bmw suggests elsewhere but my mechanic said otherwise. But it works! Still have no sound. If u already bought the friction plates, might as well try to put it between the wheel and outer brake area (like a spacer). The ticking/clicking noise in ur video clip sounds like mine. Good luck and let us know if it works for u.

[fortythirtyfive]

Originally Posted by KAY-OS

Yes. That is correct. Kinda like a mini spacer. And yes, bmw suggests elsewhere but my mechanic said otherwise. But it works! Still have no sound. If u already bought the friction plates, might as well try to put it between the wheel and outer brake area (like a spacer). The ticking/clicking noise in ur video clip sounds like mine. Good luck and let us know if it works for u.

Took the wheel off tonight so I could sand the surfaces down on the outer brake hub, then place the second friction plate between the brake disc and 10mm spacer.

When I went to break the tension on the wheel nuts it clicked! So now I'm wondering if it is related to the wheel nuts, they're definitely not too long but I suppose it could also be me creating this so called "microscopic disc movement" when putting pressure on the bolts.

The noise has once again gone now since reinstalling the wheel, but I can only imagine it will be back soon

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by fortythirtyfive

Took the wheel off tonight so I could sand the surfaces down on the outer brake hub, then place the second friction plate between the brake disc and 10mm spacer.

When I went to break the tension on the wheel nuts it clicked! So now I'm wondering if it is related to the wheel nuts, they're definitely not too long but I suppose it could also be me creating this so called "microscopic disc movement" when putting pressure on the bolts.

The noise has once again gone now since reinstalling the wheel, but I can only imagine it will be back soon

I see from your signature that you have spacers on the wheels, there is quite a dangerous condition that could be causing the noise. It is dangerous enough that I saw an M2 lose a wheel at 140km/h on the track in July due to this problem, causing thousands of $ in damage to the bumper, suspension, wheel and brake, but luckily the car was brought to a stop without a crash.

The hubcentric flange on some wheel spacers has a chamfer that is larger than the chamfer on the wheel, this causes the wheel to not sit flat on the spacer, putting excess force on the wheel bolts (or in the case of the M2, the stud conversion kit). Eventually the bolts or studs will fail from cyclic fatigue loading as the wheel moves about a very small amount on each rotation.

Here is a method from Bimmerworld to check if you have a problem, besides looking at both the hub chamfer and spacer chamfer for signs of fretting (small movements that will produce abrasion marks):

If this is the problem, the spacers should be replaced with ones that don't have the problematic chamfer and all wheel bolts that have been used with the spacer should be replaced too, due to unknown loading conditions that may have weakened them.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by aerobod

Here is a method from Bimmerworld to check if you have a problem, besides looking at both the hub chamfer and spacer chamfer for signs of fretting (small movements that will produce abrasion marks):

If this is the problem, the spacers should be replaced with ones that don't have the problematic chamfer and all wheel bolts that have been used with the spacer should be replaced too, due to unknown loading conditions that may have weakened them.

This video by Bimmerworld is a tremendous contribution to the safety of those of us BMW owners who put spacers on our cars.

There are times when seemingly simple modifications are in fact much more complicated that we might realize or imagine.

[fortythirtyfive]

Originally Posted by aerobod

I see from your signature that you have spacers on the wheels, there is quite a dangerous condition that could be causing the noise. It is dangerous enough that I saw an M2 lose a wheel at 140km/h on the track in July due to this problem, causing thousands of $ in damage to the bumper, suspension, wheel and brake, but luckily the car was brought to a stop without a crash.

The hubcentric flange on some wheel spacers has a chamfer that is larger than the chamfer on the wheel, this causes the wheel to not sit flat on the spacer, putting excess force on the wheel bolts (or in the case of the M2, the stud conversion kit). Eventually the bolts or studs will fail from cyclic fatigue loading as the wheel moves about a very small amount on each rotation.

Here is a method from Bimmerworld to check if you have a problem, besides looking at both the hub chamfer and spacer chamfer for signs of fretting (small movements that will produce abrasion marks):

If this is the problem, the spacers should be replaced with ones that don't have the problematic chamfer and all wheel bolts that have been used with the spacer should be replaced too, due to unknown loading conditions that may have weakened them.

The vehicle makes the noise without spacers unfortunately, thanks for the info though! It made me go and check my existing spacers and luckily they all fit perfectly.

In total I have now tried fitting new wheel bolts, new pinch bolt (greased), peeled back the pinch bolt collar, fitted friction plates behind the brake disc (between the hub) and also between the brake disc and wheel and still no avail.

The noise is actually super loud this time and is definitely turning heads on the street lol. No garages seem to be able to put their finger on it and when they feel they've fixed it.. it comes back within a day or two which is most likely due to the wheel being lifted in the air ☹️ so at this point I'm avoiding driving the car as it's kind of embarrassing to hear

[Musashi]

Originally Posted by fortythirtyfive

The vehicle makes the noise without spacers unfortunately, thanks for the info though! It made me go and check my existing spacers and luckily they all fit perfectly.

In total I have now tried fitting new wheel bolts, new pinch bolt (greased), peeled back the pinch bolt collar, fitted friction plates behind the brake disc (between the hub) and also between the brake disc and wheel and still no avail.

The noise is actually super loud this time and is definitely turning heads on the street lol. No garages seem to be able to put their finger on it and when they feel they've fixed it.. it comes back within a day or two which is most likely due to the wheel being lifted in the air ☹️ so at this point I'm avoiding driving the car as it's kind of embarrassing to hear

Mine started at 155,000 kms, Canadian winters, it commenced August 2023 Tick tick Zing (turning in parking lot the wheel), driving random zannnnngle throught the plate. Taped my iphone, drove 150 m, sure enough it is from the hub. As I had replaced old Adaptive M suspension with B6 + Dinan, we thought it was suspension. Or Sway bar. OR LINKS. Go in for winter tires, they did not bother doing a test drive, WHEEL BEARINGS. Sure enough after adding friction discs, 99% of sound subsided. Next stepp, all around wheel bearing swap. As RL is dragging.

[freakystyly]

My original rotors ticked loudly under heavy cornering, mostly noticeable on sweeping off ramps. The ticking disappeared after replacing the worn rotors with the same 2 piece from Zimmermann.

No friction disk applied.

[fortythirtyfive]

Wheel bearings may be worth a shot at replacing especially if they're of an age or high mileage.

I believe I finally figured out where the micro-slippage is happening, in-between the hub and wheel bearing a small amount of corrosion is able to build up which begins to ruin the trueness of how flat the two mating surfaces are.

Funnily enough BMW have now released a "bearing repair kit" 83192298825. This quite literally consists of a sanding pad to remove the corrosion and a sealant adhesive, I guess it acts like a barrier glue to prevent anything from getting in there again.

If you consider doing this remember to buy new bearing bolts, they are all torque to yield meaning one time use.

As for the friction discs make sure you sand/key the two mating surfaces before installing these, I hear a lot of people say that they don't work but just throw them on with no prep, they're teflon discs designed to stop microscopic slippage and therefore need a clean and prepped surface to grab onto.

[Track/S]

Friction disc installed and the noise has not gone away.