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      11-23-2020, 12:55 AM   #1
illmatic37
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What kind of weird random problems have you had?

Anyone have and weird or random issues with your 2 that seemingly come out of nowhere and then disappear just as fast? I also have an e46, I like the more analog feeling it has, but I also like the new tech my f22 has, but I suspect these weird issues are due to the amount of electronics it has.
Anyways I get the studder in first gear only after startup, also tonight it wouldn’t start, slow crank, wouldn’t start with a jump pack. Had to jump start with traditional cables (started right up). Went home (about 3 miles away) turned car off and it started right back up like normal. Connected a battery charger; alternator is putting out 14.9v, (14.2 with headlights on), battery voltage was 12.3. No warning lights or errors after jumping, vehicle status states all normal.
Once in a while, the radio will turn off and reset itself. Passenger door won’t unlock with the double door pull but will unlock with the door lock button or key fob.
Anyways I’d be interested in hearing of any other issues people might have had or if they were able to figure out causes, or how many of these things are common issues.
(Mines is a 2014 6MT with 38xxx miles)
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      11-23-2020, 05:51 AM   #2
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I had the car sputter once at a very unfortunate time. I pulled a quick u-turn but with traffic fast approaching. Nothing extreme, but began accelerating at the apex and not as I came out of the turn. It was like the car vapor-locked (momentarily nothing) and then released. I'm assuming (hoping) that it was the sputter-god using traction control to wave a disapproving finger and say "thou shalt not enjoy lateral acceleration ni the pleasures of exceeding your tires coefficient of friction" (note that in my mind the sputter-god knows a bit of physics).
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      11-23-2020, 07:55 AM   #3
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illmatic37, many of the items you mention have been related as symptoms by others of a battery that's bad or going bad. Even if you're measuring 12.3 volts, if the battery is original, it's likely due to be replaced. These 2 Series cars have several odd electrical issues when the battery is going bad. Something to look into.
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      11-23-2020, 08:06 AM   #4
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I've had intermittent CarPlay connection issues at start up. Restarting the 230i usually (but not always) results in reconnection. Restarting the iPhone alone does not fix the issue. Phone has latest OS.
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      11-23-2020, 08:27 AM   #5
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Knock on wood. Zero issues with my 2015 228ixCV
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      11-23-2020, 09:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H2O_Doc View Post
I had the car sputter once at a very unfortunate time. I pulled a quick u-turn but with traffic fast approaching. Nothing extreme, but began accelerating at the apex and not as I came out of the turn. It was like the car vapor-locked (momentarily nothing) and then released.
Your car has a feature called Dynamic Stability Control (DSC), also sometimes referred to as Electronic Stability Control (ESC). Starting in 2012 it's been required on all cars sold in the US. BMW introduced the feature on their cars in the early 1990s.

Its purpose is to keep the driver from wrecking, and after years of refinement it does a very good job of it. NHTSA and IIHS believe that the feature has saved many tens of thousands of lives. Car and Driver has called it by far the greatest safety advancement in automobiles after the seat belt.

This thread has some useful information if you have the patience to wade past the digressions: https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1214851.

Without DSC, the reports on this forum and elsewhere of wrecked BMWs would be legion. There would be only slightly fewer (former) owners claiming that BMWs were evil and undriveable.
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      11-23-2020, 11:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illmatic37 View Post
Passenger door won’t unlock with the double door pull but will unlock with the door lock button or key fob.
This is caused by the door lock actuator. My driver's side door had the same issue you described and BMW replaced the actuators in both doors under warranty.
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      11-23-2020, 01:43 PM   #8
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Intermittent reboots of the iDrive system (sometimes preceded by a loud "pop" on the speakers - once in awhile, maybe 1-3 times a year, NBD.

More seriously - last year had a couple of seemingly random flat tire warnings, followed by full DSC flashing lights everywhere a few weeks later. BMW says a sensor on one wheel corroded - they replaced and resealed to keep out the salt and crap we live with here 5 months each year.

Usual Apple CarPlay issues - latest is I need to disconnect and reconnect my iPhone sometimes to get it working.

Still lovin' it 3 3/1 years in!
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      11-23-2020, 02:06 PM   #9
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For those with iDrive problems, I had the dropped Bluetooth and reboot issues also. Went in for an oil change and they updated my system to the latest firmware. All good now (and I did the full screen CarPlay mod after).
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      11-23-2020, 02:20 PM   #10
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- Maybe 2 to 3 times a year, my factory under seat subs fail to turn on. The fix is to turn off the car, wait 2 minutes, and restart. It's done this for over 4.5 years. Never had it looked at because it's a common issue and there's no fix.

- Very occasionally, on a cold start, my M235 will sound and rock in the engine mounts like a cammed small block V8. It will do this for maybe 10 seconds or I quickly tap the throttle to around 3000rpms and it fixes it. It's done this for over 4.5 years. Never had it looked and don't see the point.

- One hot days and after the car is fully warm and the radio is off, I can hear a faint mechanical knocking. It almost sounds like rod knock. The sound is caused by the dual mass, self-adjusting flywheel. It's done this for over 3.5 years. Never had it looked and don't see the point as dual mass flywheels are known to be noisy.

- After the car is fully warm and the radio is off, and especially if I'm in an enclosed area with concrete floors like a garage, when I turn off the car with the car in neutral, clutch pedal out, I can hear quite apparent mechanical knocking on shut off. This again is the dual mass flywheel. It's done this since day 1 of ownership in Feb 2016.

- Occasionally the clutch can chatter quite badly in 1st. The fix is to clutch in and try again. It's done this for over 3.5 years. Never had it looked because it's totally random.
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      11-23-2020, 07:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H2O_Doc View Post
I'm assuming (hoping) that it was the sputter-god using traction control to wave a disapproving finger and say "thou shalt not enjoy lateral acceleration ni the pleasures of exceeding your tires coefficient of friction" (note that in my mind the sputter-god knows a bit of physics).
It was not a god. It was the nannies, and they interject WAY too soon.
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      11-24-2020, 06:14 AM   #12
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I get the idrive system rebooting with the pop noises every few months, too. I think that's a common thing with the NBT non-EVO version

BT audio will connect to my phone, but won't actually play the music sometimes until I press the Media button and "wake it up"

One window sometimes goes back down if I turn the car off while rolling them up
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      11-24-2020, 09:32 AM   #13
dradernh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harma24 View Post
It was not a god. It was the nannies, and they interject WAY too soon.
TLDR; DSC saved me on the street once, and I was very happy that it did.

The nannies do that for me at Mid-Ohio in a single one of the turns. It's a GO...PARK...GO sort of sensation that can't even be seen in a video, but it's annoying as all heck.

Otherwise, I'm grateful DSC saved me while merging into interstate rush hour traffic one morning at this time last year. It was a merge I've done a hundred times, traffic is remarkably non-aggressive in this region (drivers leave lots of room in front of them), and I was paying attention.

I had snow tires on, it had drizzled overnight after being dry for weeks, and the road surface is banked slightly away to the left at that merge point. I merged into the right-hand lane just fine, and there was plenty of room to merge into the middle lane. So I checked my outside mirror to ensure everything was still good, turned the wheel slightly to merge left, squeezed down a very moderate amount on the throttle (I was in the process of increasing my speed from ~60 MPH to ~65 MPH), and, while still looking in my outside mirror...the image began shifting sideways at an alarming rate. Uh-oh!

That was me getting ready to wreck myself and maybe a bunch of others, or if I'd been lucky I'd miss the car in the left-hand lane and back it into the guardrail in the median without bouncing back into the oncoming traffic.

Instead, having seen what was happening in the mirror, I snapped my head back to straight-ahead prepared to correct with the wheel, and guess what...the car had already fixed the problem and was going where the wheel was pointed. The whole thing happened in what felt like the blink of an eye.

I was grateful not just for DSC, but also for the drivers around here leaving enough room between themselves that those behind me had room to check-up for a second before resuming their commutes to work and school.
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      11-24-2020, 11:49 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidwayMuller View Post
One window sometimes goes back down if I turn the car off while rolling them up
My passenger window does that too I figured out it's a timing thing in relationship to when I push the roll up button compared to shutting off the car. If I do it within 1 second of shut off, it usually will do it. If I wait 2+ seconds, it's fine.
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      11-24-2020, 12:19 PM   #15
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Yesterday I pull into the garage, shut the engine off and I noticed a beeping sound coming from the engine compartment. I popped the hood and the beeping sound, about 5 seconds apart, coming from the driver side of the engine. This is the only time it happened.

I restarted the engine and shut it off again. The beeping stopped.
Any ideas?

If it happens again I’ll take it into dealer.
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      11-24-2020, 04:02 PM   #16
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Service light (!) came on, under 9000 miles. It remained illuminated for about a week (had only driven short city distances).
Tightened gas cap and drove car on hwy for about twenty minutes. No more warning light.
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      11-24-2020, 05:51 PM   #17
illmatic37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p912guy View Post
illmatic37, many of the items you mention have been related as symptoms by others of a battery that's bad or going bad. Even if you're measuring 12.3 volts, if the battery is original, it's likely due to be replaced. These 2 Series cars have several odd electrical issues when the battery is going bad. Something to look into.
i just checked the date stamp on the negative terminal of my battery, looks to be the original that the car shipped with. january 2014.
apparently, there's some kind of automotive battery shortage currently according to 2 of my friends that work in the automotive industry. something about some battery factory burning down. local parts store here has 2 in stock. guess i'm buying a battery after work
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      11-25-2020, 04:48 PM   #18
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You need to get the battery registered to your car (coding), so unlikely the parts store can do it. That registration system ("IBS"?) may also be the culprit in the weird behavior. If you find an indie shop locally you might want to call them to see if they will run a diagnostic on it for you, and also verify they would register your battery if you bought it elsewhere. You wouldn't want to be stuck w/ a new batt that you can't really install, and there is always the chance that you don't need a new battery.
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      11-26-2020, 04:32 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maynard View Post
You need to get the battery registered to your car (coding), so unlikely the parts store can do it. That registration system ("IBS"?) may also be the culprit in the weird behavior. If you find an indie shop locally you might want to call them to see if they will run a diagnostic on it for you, and also verify they would register your battery if you bought it elsewhere. You wouldn't want to be stuck w/ a new batt that you can't really install, and there is always the chance that you don't need a new battery.
I have a Carly on the way currently, gonna use that to register the battery. Also a good friend of mine is an indy so if I decide not to use the Carly he can do the coding. I was reading about battery voltage, I didn’t realize that while a voltage of 12.2 will usually start the car it means the battery is ~77%. With the original battery pushing 7 years I’d rather change it now and forget about it. Plus with this battery shortage and living in Hawaii it might be a while if the stores go out of stock.
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      11-30-2020, 10:10 AM   #20
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I had the tail light ground wire thing happen about 2 months after the extended CPO warranty coverage ended. Pulled the left tail light out and found the burnt pin.

Which parts supplier would you all recommend ordering the bulb socket and wiring harness from? I'm just getting started on my out-of-warranty DIY repair journey (for this car).
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      11-30-2020, 11:13 AM   #21
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Go to www.realoem.com and enter the last 7 characters of your ca' VIN. Hit enter and bookmark the page. Scroll down to body electrical to se if there's a repair kit. See if FCPEuro has the repair parts. If not, go to the dealer and order the parts. The dealer won't have them but you'll have them in 3 days. Lufthansa flies a 747 full of BMW parts from Munich to JFK 365 day a year.

Also, there may be a recall on this issue. The early E46 sedans, made in South Africa, had this same issue. It was fixed under a recall. Recalls never end unless all effected cars are either fixed or junked.
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      11-30-2020, 11:33 AM   #22
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A few months ago - while driving my 228i with the low gas light on the car all of a sudden starts to run as though on three cylinders, with very lethargic rev.
Went to gas station and filled the tank , car ran fine.
Called dealer - he said he has heard of that before but no fix.
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