[Sail Boat]

Since August of 2017, I have been complaining (in no less than three separate threads) about a driver's side front-end clunk that would occur upon driving over mild road imperfections. Most of you probably know this as the steering rack clunk that has been discussed ad nauseam.

Something you should know about me is that I am pretty stubborn, especially when it comes to car maintenance and repair. Foolishly, I ruled out the steering rack early on because I was not experiencing the most common symptoms detailed by F3X/F2X owners. In response, I used trial and error to track down the source and replaced or upgraded every part of the front suspension: two sets of coilovers, camber plates and new strut mounts, end links, swaybar bushings, F8X LCAs, Tension Struts, and tie rods. After each upgrade the handling improved incrementally but the clunk remained.

As you all know, trial and error is never the best approach when diagnosing an issue. I hate to say it but Occam's razor is usually the best principle to start with. Acknowledging this after three years of chasing the problem, I investigated the mechanical operation of the rack and noticed that (LINK IS DEAD, SEE POSTS BELOW) ThyssenKrupp, the manufacturer of our rack, released a repair kit designed to address excessive play that results in cabin noise. Frankly, this should have been a recall issued by BMW but that's an argument for a different time.

I ordered the kit ($30) and the necessary steering rack pin socket from a UK eBay seller ($40), removed the old thrust piece, replaced it with the new version, greased up the compnents with FB-1, and torqued the cap with the tool to 70nm. Note that there are some specific and very expensive tools recommended by ThyssenKrupp, but they are totally unnecessary. If your steering doesn't "return to center" when driving, just loosen up the cap a bit (you'll notice in the instructions the thrust piece is compressed by a spring). Alternatively, you can choose to keep it tighter as I did, which is purely a preference thing.

The result? Tighter steering and total silence. In conclusion, if you have been chasing a front-end clunk it is probably your steering rack and this $70 fix is the solution. No need to replace the entire rack, just install this updated piece.

[celsdogg]

wow, this is incredible information. you did the community a service!

[TonM3]

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

Since August of 2017, I have been complaining (in no less than three separate threads) about a driver's side front-end clunk that would occur upon driving over mild road imperfections. Most of you probably know this as the steering rack clunk that has been discussed ad nauseam.

Something you should know about me is that I am pretty stubborn, especially when it comes to car maintenance and repair. Foolishly, I ruled out the steering rack pretty early on because I was not experiencing the most common symptoms. In response, I used trial and error to track down the source and replaced or upgraded every part of the front suspension: two sets of coilers, camber plates and new strut mounts, end links, swaybar bushings, F8X LCAs, Tension Struts, and tie rods. After each upgrade, the handling got incrementally tighter, but the clunk remained.

As you all know, trial and error is never the best approach when diagnosing an issue. I hate to say it, but Occam's razor is usually the best principle to start with. Acknowledging this after three years of chasing the problem, I investigated the mechanical operation of the rack and noticed that ThyssenKrupp, the manufacturer of our rack, released a repair kit designed to address excessive play that results in cabin noise. Frankly, this should have been a recall issued by BMW but that's an argument for a different time.

I ordered the kit ($30) and the necessary steering rack pin socket from a UK eBay seller for ($40), removed the old thrust piece, replaced it with the new version, greased up the compnents with FB-1, and torqued the cap with the tool to 70nm. You'll notice there are some specific and very expensive tools recommended by ThyssenKrupp, but they are totally unnecessary. If your steering doesn't "return to center" when driving, just loosen up the cap a bit (you'll notice in the instructions the thrust piece is compressed by a spring). Alternatively, you can choose to keep it tighter as I did, which is purely a preference thing.

The result? Tighter steering and total silence. In conclusion, if you have been chasing a front-end clunk, it is probably your steering rack and this $70 fix is the solution. No need to replace the entire rack, just install this updated piece.

The next person to do this should make a DIY video

[hardparker]

Newtis is dead, but this is more or less the same info: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1603926

[Sail Boat]

Originally Posted by hardparker

Newtis is dead, but this is more or less the same info: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1603926

Pretty frustrating BMW has implemented a paywall, but I suppose I understand why. Thanks for noting!

[Pbdeed]

How much the 3 hole piece should be tighten? In the repair instructions I remember have seen 70Nm somewhere, but I don´t know if its that

[Sail Boat]

Originally Posted by Pbdeed

How much the 3 hole piece should be tighten? In the repair instructions I remember have seen 70Nm somewhere, but I don´t know if its that

Correct, it is 70nm, but you will likely need to loosen the cap to reduce the preload and allow the steering wheel to return to center.

[Pbdeed]

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

Correct, it is 70nm, but you will likely need to loosen the cap to reduce the preload and allow the steering wheel to return to center.

Thank you mate

[este]

So this is no longer accessible or you have to sign up?

[wfujay]

Originally Posted by hardparker

Newtis is dead, but this is more or less the same info: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1603926

So this F30 kit also works for F22's?

[wfujay]

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

Since August of 2017, I have been complaining (in no less than three separate threads) about a driver's side front-end clunk that would occur upon driving over mild road imperfections. Most of you probably know this as the steering rack clunk that has been discussed ad nauseam.

Something you should know about me is that I am pretty stubborn, especially when it comes to car maintenance and repair. Foolishly, I ruled out the steering rack pretty early on because I was not experiencing the most common symptoms. In response, I used trial and error to track down the source and replaced or upgraded every part of the front suspension: two sets of coilovers, camber plates and new strut mounts, end links, swaybar bushings, F8X LCAs, Tension Struts, and tie rods. After each upgrade, the handling got incrementally tighter, but the clunk remained.

As you all know, trial and error is never the best approach when diagnosing an issue. I hate to say it, but Occam's razor is usually the best principle to start with. Acknowledging this after three years of chasing the problem, I investigated the mechanical operation of the rack and noticed that (LINK IS DEAD, SEE POSTS BELOW) ThyssenKrupp, the manufacturer of our rack, released a repair kit designed to address excessive play that results in cabin noise. Frankly, this should have been a recall issued by BMW but that's an argument for a different time.

I ordered the kit ($30) and the necessary steering rack pin socket from a UK eBay seller ($40), removed the old thrust piece, replaced it with the new version, greased up the compnents with FB-1, and torqued the cap with the tool to 70nm. Note that there are some specific and very expensive tools recommended by ThyssenKrupp, but they are totally unnecessary. If your steering doesn't "return to center" when driving, just loosen up the cap a bit (you'll notice in the instructions the thrust piece is compressed by a spring). Alternatively, you can choose to keep it tighter as I did, which is purely a preference thing.

The result? Tighter steering and total silence. In conclusion, if you have been chasing a front-end clunk, it is probably your steering rack and this $70 fix is the solution. No need to replace the entire rack, just install this updated piece.

Pretty sure I'm having the exact same issue as you explained and have been trying to diagnose front suspension as the culprit. Is this the kit you ordered and if so, it also works for the M240i?

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...et-32106891974

Also, it's only $30 here not $70 so I'm a bit confused. Also in the video linked above, the guy said the dealership had to make a computer adjustment after installing. Was this the case with yours as well?

[Sail Boat]

Originally Posted by wfujay

Pretty sure I'm having the exact same issue as you explained and have been trying to diagnose front suspension as the culprit. Is this the kit you ordered and if so, it also works for the M240i?

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...et-32106891974

Also, it's only $30 here not $70 so I'm a bit confused. Also in the video linked above, the guy said the dealership had to make a computer adjustment after installing. Was this the case with yours as well?

Yes, that is the correct repair kit. The F3X and F2X share the same EPS. I mentioned in my OP that the a special three-pin tool is required to remove the cap and adjust the preload, which is accomplished by tightening or loosening the cap. This special tool, which can be found on eBay from UK and China sellers, costs about $40 shipped ($30 kit + $40 tool = $70).

If you think about what this part is for and how it works, it is clear that computer adjustment isn't necessary. The thrust piece is intended to keep the pinion tightly intermeshed with the rack (rack and pinion steering). An under-tensioned thrust piece creates slack between the rack and pinion which produces an audible noise when driving over road imperfections. The computer adjustment you might be referring to is a device sold to dealerships by Thyssenkrupp as an operational improvement which adjusts the thrust piece correctly without the need for subsequent adjustment. Because we are DIYing this repair and would like to stay away from spending $2,000+ on the device, you will need to tighten to 70nm upon installation and loosen the cap incrementally until the steering wheel returns to center or your desired resistance is achieved. If there is a recommended steering control module adjustment I doubt it would make any difference and cannot think of a reason why it would need updating considering the power side of the rack is not affected by replacing the thrust piece.

[wfujay]

Originally Posted by Sail Boat

Yes, that is the correct repair kit. The F3X and F2X share the same EPS. I mentioned in my OP that the a special three-pin tool is required to remove the cap and adjust the preload, which is accomplished by tightening or loosening the cap. This special tool, which can be found on eBay from UK and China sellers, costs about $40 shipped ($30 kit + $40 tool = $70).

If you think about what this part is for and how it works, it is clear that computer adjustment isn't necessary. The thrust piece is intended to keep the pinion tightly intermeshed with the rack (rack and pinion steering). An under-tensioned thrust piece creates slack between the rack and pinion which produces an audible noise when driving over road imperfections. The computer adjustment you might be referring to is a device sold to dealerships by Thyssenkrupp as an operational improvement which adjusts the thrust piece correctly without the need for subsequent adjustment. Because we are DIYing this repair and would like to stay away from spending $2,000+ on the device, you will need to tighten to 70nm upon installation and loosen the cap incrementally until the steering wheel returns to center or your desired resistance is achieved. If there is a recommended steering control module adjustment I doubt it would make any difference and cannot think of a reason why it would need updating considering the power side of the rack is not affected by replacing the thrust piece.

Thanks for this info. I just spoke to one of the "service advisors" at one of my local dealerships about this and he just blew me off basically. He said the steering racks between the F30's, and F22's are all different and have different part numbers and that the kit "may not work or be compatible". They also won't repair mine under warranty and said it would be $335 just to get the computer adjustment and can't promise it would work because "aftermarket world" despite it being an official BMW repair kit. He also refuses to acknowledge that this is the cause of my problem because I have springs installed.

What a joke, but to be fair the guy is a huge dork and their service department is completely incompetent so it looks like I'll have to repair this myself. Seems simple enough.

[Taunto]

Are you guys getting this clunking noise only when the engine is off or with the engine running and driving as well?

[wfujay]

Originally Posted by Taunto

Are you guys getting this clunking noise only when the engine is off or with the engine running and driving as well?

I get the noise both ways, but you have to jiggle the steering wheel when the car is off to determine if this is your problem. When driving over certain "dips" in the road and bumps at slower speeds is when it's most prevalent. Also for me, turning right and hitting these small imperfections triggers the clunk usually. I've been troubleshooting my springs, when that was never the issue to begin with. Here's a video of the noise with the car off.

[Pbdeed]

Originally Posted by wfujay

Thanks for this info. I just spoke to one of the "service advisors" at one of my local dealerships about this and he just blew me off basically. He said the steering racks between the F30's, and F22's are all different and have different part numbers and that the kit "may not work or be compatible". They also won't repair mine under warranty and said it would be $335 just to get the computer adjustment and can't promise it would work because "aftermarket world" despite it being an official BMW repair kit. He also refuses to acknowledge that this is the cause of my problem because I have springs installed.

What a joke, but to be fair the guy is a huge dork and their service department is completely incompetent so it looks like I'll have to repair this myself. Seems simple enough.

In my case it was almost the same. I told the dealer about the kit (they didnt know it existed, one of the service advisors told me he had a similar problem in his F3x and for reparing that noise he had to change the entire rack, that he didnt. And thanked me for giving him that info. Then, after checking my car, they just refused doing anything as I have coilovers.

I know the sound is not coilolvers as I´ve checked everyjoint (well the garaje that installed them) and the problem I have is the same as everybody is writing in forums.

I opted for not arguing with the dealer as in this case they can say it´s the suspension mod, although it isnt, but I wont achieve anything.

In fact, I try to not to go to the dealer when I can (i tried this time because of warranty), as they are incompetent.

[Pbdeed]

Originally Posted by Taunto

Are you guys getting this clunking noise only when the engine is off or with the engine running and driving as well?

Engine off I hear the noise just from central position of wheel turning left and right (small turning).

Driving, I hear a clonk almost full right turning, going slow and over a bump or uneven surface.

[wfujay]

Originally Posted by Pbdeed

In my case it was almost the same. I told the dealer about the kit (they didnt know it existed, one of the service advisors told me he had a similar problem in his F3x and for reparing that noise he had to change the entire rack, that he didnt. And thanked me for giving him that info. Then, after checking my car, they just refused doing anything as I have coilovers.

I know the sound is not coilolvers as I´ve checked everyjoint (well the garaje that installed them) and the problem I have is the same as everybody is writing in forums.

I opted for not arguing with the dealer as in this case they can say it´s the suspension mod, although it isnt, but I wont achieve anything.

In fact, I try to not to go to the dealer when I can (i tried this time because of warranty), as they are incompetent.

Yeah, dealerships are ridiculous. When I fix this myself I'm going to send the "advisor" an email with video evidence and cc the service managers and BMW North America and absolutely blast him. I've rarely had to go to the dealership for any issues with the majority of my cars, but BMW has by far been the worst experience and they refuse to fix anything correctly. So, I'll take matters into my own hands and take out some pent up frustration in the process. Buying a $50k car and being treated like this is unacceptable.

[Pbdeed]

Today I installed the repair kit in my M240i. The mechanic that did it also used the "clamps" included in the kit.

I´ve tried to reproduce the clonk in the ramp of my garage (where I always hear it) several times and the noise seems to have gone (once I heard somthing, but maybe it was other thing). I´ve repeated the same movement (turning left at the beginning of the ramp and then turning almost full right in a corner in the ramp) like 6 or 7 times and while it would have done the clonk before now it doesnt (Except that noise I´ve heard once).

But with the Engine off , if I move the steering wheel a bit left and right I hear clearly a noise, just as before.

Just to clarify, I had "two noises" the one with engine off (which I really don´t care) and the one driving slow and turning into a bump.

I expected to solve both, but it seems that, at least, the one that disturbed me is fixed. But let´s see next days what happens.

[Pbdeed]

I need some help/info.

As I´ve said in my last post, the noise turning right seems to have disappeared, but i still hear a noise moving the wheel with engine off.

The thing is that after a track day this weekend, today i´ve started to hear a noise when almost full turning left going very slow (for example, starting to move from a parking). Not always reproducible, when it does, it´s following that pattern, turning a bit right and almost full left.

It´s just like the first time I had found a noise full turning right (after a track day too) => https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1763966

So it's like the clonk has moved from "right" turning to "left" turning (though I don´t hear it as often as I did at right because the turnings exiting my parking place are right ones).

I wonder if when garaje installed the repair kit may have not tighten it as much as it should (as I still hear a noise with the engine off).

Any advice?

[Pbdeed]

I went to a garage (which installed my repair kit) and their irst diagnostc without checking with detail was that is something related with the spring.

This could make sense as I need to turnsteering wheel one side and then the other side to reproduce it and could explain that it happened before in one direction (right) and now the opposite (left).

I'll take my car this week and they will check it

[wfujay]

Originally Posted by Pbdeed

I went to a garage (which installed my repair kit) and their irst diagnostc without checking with detail was that is something related with the spring.

This could make sense as I need to turnsteering wheel one side and then the other side to reproduce it and could explain that it happened before in one direction (right) and now the opposite (left).

I'll take my car this week and they will check it

What springs do you have?