[alx1999]

Hello everyone,

Today I'm desperately looking for help from the community as my M235i won't stay on. Let me explain how I got here so far:

I bought a 2016 BMW M235i Coupe from good ol' CoPart. This is probably the 20th or so vehicle I've bought on CoPart that I plan to repair. It was hit only in the rear, so mechanically it should be completely sound, or at least my naïve mind thought at the time. The car's exhaust had been removed from the downpipe back, as 1 whole piece that thankfully made it to my shop with the car.

Got it shipped to NC from FL and it started right up, drove it up the driveway, turned it off, started it again and parked it where it is now. No problems thus far. I began inspecting the car the next day, and noticed that there was more missing than expected.

Obviously the exhaust was removed, but there was also no intercooler, so no connection between the charge pipe and boost/turbo pipe. It was just completely exposed on both ends.

I checked the codes, as you can see in the images, and decided it was a good idea to try and clear them, just to start with a clean slate. It probably wasn't, as I believe this to be the reason the stalling started to occur. Ever since I cleared the codes the first time, what you see in the video started happening.

I went ahead and ordered an MAF sensor on eBay for the P0100 and P0113 codes. No luck getting those to go away. Figured it was the entire front intercooler assembly missing, so got a new aluminum charge pipe, intercooler, and boost pipe from VRSF and got those all installed and tightened.

Still no luck. Checked the O2 sensors, they're installed properly. I know these cars run High Pressure fuel pumps, so maybe it was low on gas or bad gas, no luck with an extra 5 gallons in the tank.

I know it could be injectors, or other fuel issues, or a vacuum leak somewhere. It could also be it was tuned, and I somehow messed that up. I'll probably have it taken to a shop for better diagnostics if I can't get it fixed within the week. Any help or suggestions are welcome.


Video:

*Note, I only pushed the throttle a couple seconds after it started, then slowly let off and it stalls. Keeping the pedal down will not keep the car alive either, it stalls every time.

[atek]

those codes were most likely related to the missing pieces you mentioned, as they are very necessary in keeping the car alive.

I would start with the MAF reset procedure and go from there, though seeing how the car won't run, may be hard to do but worth a shot.

Are you sure all connections are TIGHT between the intake/intercooler and chargepipe?

the hose clamps can be tricky where they feel tight but aren't quite tight enough for the vacuum seal necessary. go back over them to be sure.

Have you tried to see if the car will run with the MAF unplugged? Could help pin-point the issue. Also, did you say the downpipe was also removed or just the exhaust AT the downpipe portion?

[alx1999]

First off, thanks for the great advice and suggestions.

I also thought the codes were because of the missing intake components, however it seems now I have some new problems. I got it towed to a shop, and it started right up, first try without them doing ANYTHING, thankfully the shop is only like 800ft away from my neighborhood, so I just drove it home.

I haven't done the MAF reset, but could you clarify the correct way to do it? I saw multiple slightly different answers on the forums, just want to make sure I do it right.

The video I link at the bottom of this reply shows me talking about the clamps, for the intake I honestly can't do much as it's up to the C-Clips and rubber gaskets to keep it from leaking. I don't know how I could make those connections any tighter.

Anyways here's the video, sorry it's a bit long:

The 5-pin connector underneath has the part # 872-860-546

[atek]

ok, a few things :

first, the loud "ticking" sounds more closely related to a very bad exhaust leak at the turbo or downpipe. Did you replace the gasket / donut ring when you installed the downpipe? Are you sure everything is seated perfectly flush? It could also be a bad turbine blades since the noise is very apparent at the turbo/hot side

Chargepipe, that gap you're seeing is problematic. It taks some finesse, but you need to loosen the silicon coupler, remove the metal clip that holds the charge pipe to the throttlebody, and if you need to remove and reinstall the chargepipe and slowly work it into place until it is completely flush.

then reseat the metal clip ring, and then tighten everything else down. it may take some finesse and even a few attempt to get it all lined up but its doable, just a bit of a pain in the ass. Had a similar issue on the 2 different chargepipe installs ive done.

for the loose connector, have you verified that isn't in fact your MAF plug? Can you physically see the maf connection on the top side of the intake? i cant see it from the video, which is why i ask.

the hose coming from the turbo going to nothing with that capped off hard line definitely look like they should be connected. im not sure why someone would do that, but it definitely isn't factory and very well could be causing an issue (the ticking?).

the maf reset procedure is as follows :

With an already WARM (operating temp) engine that is OFF; unplug the MAF. Turn the car on, let it run for 10 whole minutes. (set a timer). Turn the car off, plug back in the MAF.

Next time the car is turned on, the idle values should have reset, allowing the DME to begin relearning and should hold a smoother idle.

hope some of this helps.

Also, when you installed the pipes, did you make sure on the Intercooler side that the pipe is lined up to the locking notch? this ensures the pipes are fully seated and cant rotate under load/boost. it will also throw off ever so slightly the entire length and fitment of the pipe, which could explain why its no sitting flush at the TB.

[alx1999]

Ok so I guess my next step is to disconnect the downpipe and recheck the seating and gasket. I'm pretty sure it's nice and tight though.

The ticking noise also almost completely disappears when you rev the engine to 750 rpms (slightly higher than idle). I assume what's happening is the sound waves are matching up, making the noise much less audible, however it is also quieter. I'll post another video in a new comment showing this in more detail.

For the charge pipe, I'll do exactly as you said and try to get the fitment correct. It was a pain in the ass to put all that piping in and connect the intercooler.

The loose connector isn't the top MAF sensor that goes into the intake. I'll show it in the follow up video. The MAF sensor was replaced and is properly seated.

For the hose, yea no idea why or who would did that. I'm gonna go ahead and hook it back up properly.

I'll also do the MAF reset, thanks for the proper instructions!

As far the locking notch of the pipe, are you talking about the plastic ball-joint fastener on the stock charge pipe (Charge pipe is intercooler to throttle body (Driver Side)) which clips into place? If so, the VRSF charge pipe does not have that locking piece. It just gets held in by the throttle body and intercooler connections.

Here's the VRSF charge pipe link: https://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-charge...0-f30-n55.html

I'll do some quick changes to the car and post a video of the results. Thanks so much for the info, I really appreciate the help.

[MLJR235]

Originally Posted by alx1999

First off, thanks for the great advice and suggestions.

I also thought the codes were because of the missing intake components, however it seems now I have some new problems. I got it towed to a shop, and it started right up, first try without them doing ANYTHING, thankfully the shop is only like 800ft away from my neighborhood, so I just drove it home.

I haven't done the MAF reset, but could you clarify the correct way to do it? I saw multiple slightly different answers on the forums, just want to make sure I do it right.

The video I link at the bottom of this reply shows me talking about the clamps, for the intake I honestly can't do much as it's up to the C-Clips and rubber gaskets to keep it from leaking. I don't know how I could make those connections any tighter.

Anyways here's the video, sorry it's a bit long:

The 5-pin connector underneath has the part # 872-860-546

That 5 pin does not seem to be an oem f22 connection far as I could see online but I strongly recommend you remove the engine cover and do a slow recording to see if anything is missing a connector too.

The car seems to have been altered and I'm sorry to say the noise may be internal either rod bearings or lifters related.

Here are some diagrams for what that sealed off line is. It is a coolant line which I am pretty sure should be attached. *See part no 1 on "Turbo cooling system" .

Now that I think about it.. .Your car may have been running "turbo-less" which is why there was no charge or boost pipe. I assume you could run a car without it but honestly this is crazy if that's what they did?

I wonder if it is damaged and if you are even building boost on your car right now. Could it be the turbo itself causing the noise? maybe, but it's tough to say off a video.

I would recommend you have a shop familiar with bmws check it out and you should explain everything you told us. They can probably give you a definitive answer as to what is actually wrong That way you will know what needs done.

[alx1999]

Thank you all so much for the help, I really do appreciate it.

I was going to make a follow up video, however I instead decided to go ahead and get the body work done so it's in the shop for now.


Taking a good look underneath the car, there was no diverter/blow off valve installed. There was just an open hole on the turbo where the diverter was supposed to be.

I have pretty much confirmed that this is where the 2 pin connector goes, and have gone ahead and ordered a turbo smart blow off valve.

It could be that the excessive ticking noise was due to their being an open hole in the turbo and I'm hoping the BOV will fix it.

For the turbo coolant connection, I wonder why they would disconnect it from the turbo? I assume that all this stuff was removed as the previous owner wanted to flip it.

The car has come without: floor mats, intercooler, boost + charge pipe, owners manual, diverter valve, and under paneling. Kinda upset I didn't notice any of this but it was not possible to see in the pictures. Usually auction vehicles aren't gone through like this and it's obviously caused a lot more headaches than I was prepared to get into.


So I believe we figured out some of the problems, and again thanks to both of you for the help.

I think my plan it going to be to remove the whole front end and get a good look at everything. I also have the top bolt for my waterpump missing, which I assume was removed to get access to the diverter valve. So I'll pull the front end and just get everything, hopefully, straightened out.

[alx1999]

Ok I found the 5 pin connector as well. It's my Wastegate Actuator, which I have on order, however I need to figure out the bolts that mount it to the turbo. I've looked at damn near every part diagram and found which bolts I need, however the part # is no where to be found. They are referenced as "A" but no indication of what type of bolts "A" is. Diagram picture is attached, and here is the link to it:
https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/a/BMW...r/11_6677.html

also:
http://mfans2.com/parts/catalog/F22/...r_2/#7643115_1

[MAMSport]

I wonder if the diagram is meant to indicate that fasteners A and B come with part 11?