04-15-2017, 08:28 PM | #89 | |
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Any tricks for sight setup? Seems like every which way I try it still looks crooked. Doesn't help our dashes are slanted/angled and our drivers seat is crooked, but hey.. And of course, I take a road trip to Nelson, BC today, beautiful day, not ONE damn cruiser, just a few small chimes from the Redline.. Worst case I'll get a longer wire ordered and run it in a cleaner fashion. You got me all worked up now, thanks. D |
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04-15-2017, 09:11 PM | #90 | |
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04-15-2017, 09:26 PM | #91 | |
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06-30-2017, 06:56 AM | #92 |
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This thread was super helpful. I have a 2013 M6 that I wanted to "get rid of the hanging cord" of my V1. I didn't use the Wiretap kit, instead I used the wiring kit that came with the V1 for the install. I gently scraped a little insulation off the Positive wire from the plug. in the pics above (that lone middle wire in the bottom row in the plug) and used the splicer from the V1 kit. For ground, I was able to force fit the black wire from the V1 kit to a little metal module. I tugged on it to make sure it wasn't going to vibrate loose and it stayed.
The biggest challenge was fitting all the wire that comes with the V1's kit into that little area created by the covers and getting the covers snapped back on correctly. I had to fiddle with that a few times to get it right. I was very happy this morning to not have the wire hanging down and when I put the "parking" sun visor in my windshield this morning, I didn't have to mess with a cord in the way from the detector, Yay!
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09-30-2017, 02:42 PM | #93 |
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Just did mine.. My compliments to the OP for a great DIY write up.. I dont have a tremendously secure feeling that this connection will hold up over time since, while the insertion prongs did hit pay dirt, they didnt wedge in with a lot of resistance and were easily pulled out. But as for now, its good to go, and with a little luck, provided the heavy V1 doesnt give up the suction cup ghost on the windshield, this should work out well.. Next step, I guess, is to buy a new V1 for that 'Junk-K' feature to eliminate all the falsing.. Mine is too old to be updated.
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10-20-2017, 06:28 PM | #94 | |
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11-09-2017, 01:13 PM | #95 |
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What am I missing - cannot unplug mirror connector
Tried to do my install last night.
For the life of me I could not disconnect the mirror power plug. This is 2017 M240i. I tried pulling, i tried depressing what looks like a locking tab in the center ? It looks like I should be able to get the taps inserted without removing the plug. Those of you that used MirrorTaps which length did you use ? |
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11-09-2017, 05:53 PM | #96 |
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I did my install today. I thought I ordered 12" mirror tap but I ordered 10".
I was able to make it work by bending the pins where they come out of the connector. You really need a 12" though so that you have enough to make the install easier. You have to depress the tab on the front and the back of the connector to get it to release. |
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11-09-2017, 08:25 PM | #97 | |
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02-08-2018, 09:30 AM | #99 |
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Did you use the rain sensor connector or the standard one described in this thread? I read somewhere else that the standard one doesn't provide enough juice for the R3.
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03-11-2018, 12:54 PM | #100 | |
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Did not have success on my 18 M2 with my uniden R3. To add insult to injury I blew a fuse trying to install and my interior lights stopped working. |
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03-25-2018, 02:00 PM | #101 |
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First of all, thanks to the OP for the DIY, it gave the tips normally missing from instructions.
As my 2017 M240i rearview mirror is not itself powered, I decided to tap into the rain sensor connection. It went smoothly. So, this is what I used in my setup: Car: 2017 M240i Radar: Uniden R3 Radar Mounting Mechanism: The big suction cup included with the R3 Mirror Tap: Radar Mount Radar Mount Mirror Wire Power Cord for Escort Radar Detectors With Inline Fuse RJ11 (3005201) https://www.amazon.com/Radar-Mount-M...+mount+3005201 Tools: A credit card. Heres the cable packaging: Opening the mirror housing was easy, starting from the middle and just sliding the credit card back and forth, applying some pressure. The left side gave up first, very easily and then the right. I found a single connector, with three wires: Black (left): Ground Purple: (Center) Red (right): Live The wires from the Radar Mount slide in but i had to put some pressure, specially on the red wire. I did not bring the connection down, as it seemed I could just do it while connected just a little unconfortably because of the mirror standing in the way. Small hands might be of help. Here's the connection: Then, so i had to see the least cable possible, i decided to make it go through the middle of the right plastic housing. First I tried to make it come out through the roof, but too much cable showed (the length was ok though). The plastic housing snapped right back, and here's the end result: From the passenger side: From the drivers position: Hopfully this helps someone else that also does not have a powered rearview mirror. Cheers! |
08-18-2018, 04:12 PM | #103 |
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Thanks for this, super helpful! I just got my mirror tap today and installed - took about 10min! I didn't go for the mount - just stuck it on the windshield above the mirror.
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08-19-2018, 01:24 PM | #104 | |
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08-20-2018, 01:32 PM | #105 |
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I actually moved my setup to my M2 back in January and its working perfectly with the parts listed that I had on the M235 so it should work fine with the new cable.
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08-21-2018, 06:40 AM | #107 |
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2018. It'll work.
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08-25-2018, 06:45 PM | #109 |
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I got the proper wire tap and installed again today, however when finished while both connectors clicked and seemed firm, I was getting intermittent power, if I pushed the commector a certain way, it would power on but when I let go it would lose power...
For the time being I went in the small connector above it (rain sensor power maybe) but this is hot all the time so each time I turn off the car I have to unplug my RD (have a Uniden R3) which is not ideal... Any suggestions? |
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08-25-2018, 06:47 PM | #110 | |
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