[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by M2-BM35i

Hi eveyone, i was thinking to up the settings on my RC ult to try it out...

Is putting up the settings from standard default to S2-D and S1-1 considered a big jump?

Thanks

Each notch I believe is .3 boost, so going from b to d is a .6 boost increase. If on 93 octane should be ok but each car and gas quality is different. You won't blow up your engine, try it for a full tank and if getting erratic results or CEL then dial it back down. Computer will pull power when you've gone too far.

[M2-BM35i]

Wow -
I am running 93unl (not sure though...)

On standard settings I'm seeing around 14.3 psi at times

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by M2-BM35i

Wow - .3 is a big jump then.

I am running 93unl

On standard settings I'm seeing around 14.3 psi at times , so this should up it to 18psi ? Ie 1b to 1.3b ?

I don't know about all that as I don't have this tune anymore so not sure how many notches above baseline you can turn it.

Each notch is .3 lb of boost pressure increase not 1.3 bars. So, no I think you misunderstand if standard you are seeing 14.3 then setting D would perhaps get you 14.9 not 18. I think standard is about 3.5 psi of boost over stock so D would be 4.1. 18 psi would not work at all on 93 octane and stock downpipe.

[M2-BM35i]

Ok, my misunderstanding, .3 lb boost up per notch, not .3 b

Boost will therefore be 14.9psi

I will be trying it soon

[FSociety]

+1 kdog26372 is correct .3 boost each increase
My RC for my N20 came in C , I have tested each setting up to 4 but have not gone past that.
Test each setting for at least 100 miles and hopefully you have a OBD2 Dongle to measure your psi.

[moldcad]

Originally Posted by AlexGT

Call me ignorant ('cause I am on this) but I've just bumped to my first doubt, the installation instructions talk about ONE connector, the MAP, and that's it, but my cabling has TWO connectors (see the attached pic I took), so for you that have installed JB4 and other piggy backs to our cars, any pointers? How do I know which one goes where?

So none of you got the cables described which is which on a separate sheet of paper? Strange - when I bought my Racechip Ultra for the N20 engine, each of the 3 branches had strip of paper in different color attached, and the colors where fully described which goes where on a separate sheet...

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by moldcad

So none of you got the cables described which is which on a separate sheet of paper? Strange - when I bought my Racechip Ultra for the N20 engine, each of the 3 branches had strip of paper in different color attached, and the colors where fully described which goes where on a separate sheet...

cuz the N55 for 335/535 uses 1 connector and the M235 uses another one

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by moldcad

So none of you got the cables described which is which on a separate sheet of paper? Strange - when I bought my Racechip Ultra for the N20 engine, each of the 3 branches had strip of paper in different color attached, and the colors where fully described which goes where on a separate sheet...

On the N55 setup, the harness have 2 sets of plugs which doesn't matter which goes to TMAP or MAP.
While on the N20/N26, the harness have 3 sets of plugs which color labeled to connect to TMAP, MAP, and MAF sensors.

[louielouie]

Really tempted to pull the trigger on the RC Ultimate but I drive to and from work in constant traffic (50 miles a day). Currently getting 19 MPG average... I was curious if anyone has any similar experiences and how the mpgs are fairing after the tune.

[AlexGT]

Originally Posted by louielouie

Really tempted to pull the trigger on the RC Ultimate but I drive to and from work in constant traffic (50 miles a day). Currently getting 19 MPG average... I was curious if anyone has any similar experiences and how the mpgs are fairing after the tune.

To be completely honest, I did not feel any improvement nor decrease on the mpgs. At the end, it all depends on how you drive, with the RaceChip (or any other tune) you will be temped to drive harder and faster. My 2 cents.

[SDKevin]

Originally Posted by louielouie

Really tempted to pull the trigger on the RC Ultimate but I drive to and from work in constant traffic (50 miles a day). Currently getting 19 MPG average... I was curious if anyone has any similar experiences and how the mpgs are fairing after the tune.

You're doing better than I am. Similar driving as you and I get 16.1. I've got the RC Ultimate but I was getting exactly the same before fitting it. The car feels a decent amount faster with it so I guess I should be thankful it's no worse

[louielouie]

Originally Posted by SDKevin

You're doing better than I am. Similar driving as you and I get 16.1. I've got the RC Ultimate but I was getting exactly the same before fitting it. The car feels a decent amount faster with it so I guess I should be thankful it's no worse

Haha, my friend lives in SD and says there's no traffic. Sounds like someones got the lead foot

There were a few posts in the past about discount codes. Think it was ROBNYC?My girlfriend's birthday is on the same week as Valentines so if my wallet survives that, would be great to have it ready.

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by louielouie

Really tempted to pull the trigger on the RC Ultimate but I drive to and from work in constant traffic (50 miles a day). Currently getting 19 MPG average... I was curious if anyone has any similar experiences and how the mpgs are fairing after the tune.

I am not sure why anyone would buy the RC Ultimate over the AA8 tune. They are the same price and one controls boost by RPM while the other does not. You get more for the same price with AA8. I've tried/had both and AA8 has been the better tune. The extra wire adds all of 5 minutes to the install time.

[SDKevin]

Originally Posted by louielouie

Sounds like someones got the lead foot

Guilty as charged.

[SDKevin]

Originally Posted by kdog26372

I've tried/had both and AA8 has been the better tune.

Can you share anything to back that up? I'd be up for changing if you have any dyno runs.

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by SDKevin

Can you share anything to back that up? I'd be up for changing if you have any dyno runs.

There's nothing to back up other than facts. Both RC and AA8 adjust boost using the same 2 plugs to start, then AA8 adds the cam sensor plug so that boost is different based on different rpms. AA8 has added boost of anywhere from 2.7-5.8 depending on rpm (this is particularly beneficial to RWD cars as too much boost down low and you will have traction issues, also cruising on highway at lower RPM's and having comparably better gas mileage as you aren't adding as much boost below 3,500 rpm's). RC is simply a fixed I believe 3.5 or 4 regardless of RPM.

Next is the method of altering the map up or down. RC you have to disconnect the tune and take out 8 tiny screws and then turn a dial inside the box. AA8 has the dial easily accessible on the outside. Not that you change the tune a bunch, but simply a better design. Finally the AA8 mounts to an existing bolt under a cover by the passenger side. The RC really has no method of mounting other than zip tie to wherever you find a place for it, most likely in the hot engine bay.

I can't say I'd recommend a swap if you've already paid for the RC, but for new buyers I see zero advantage and a few disadvantages actually of the RC vs. the AA8 for identical prices.

No stage 1 tune is going to show any better dyno numbers than others really. They simply up the boost and you can adjust how much upping the box does (JB stage 1, RC Ultimate and AA8). The AA8 to me is better because rpm specific boost changes makes sense to smooth out the power delivery and with its ease of tune adjustment. If adding downpipe and/or E85 mixes none of these stage 1/1.5 tunes will give you the best results; really need stage 2 JB4 for that. Just my 2 cents.

[louielouie]

Originally Posted by kdog26372

I am not sure why anyone would buy the RC Ultimate over the AA8 tune. They are the same price and one controls boost by RPM while the other does not. You get more for the same price with AA8. I've tried/had both and AA8 has been the better tune. The extra wire adds all of 5 minutes to the install time.

Looked thoroughly over several of the threads, and people sporadically had issues with the AA8. There just happened to be less coming up for the Racechip. I'm on a lease and am trying to be extra careful about not voiding my coverage.

That being said, all of these would show up if they ran a diagnostic so I might not buy any of them out of paranoia.

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by louielouie

Looked thoroughly over several of the threads, and people sporadically had issues with the AA8. There just happened to be less coming up for the Racechip. I'm on a lease and am trying to be extra careful about not voiding my coverage.

That being said, all of these would show up if they ran a diagnostic so I might not buy any of them out of paranoia.

Yeah I see you are in California with most likely only 91 octane. I'd probably just opt for the JB stage 1 with that mediocre gas they are up for sale all the time on forums for very low price. It's a 5 minute install and cheap. The AA8 is a more aggressive tune, although I think they send you one made for 91 octance, but it will still push more boost up top than JB stage 1 in stock setting form.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by kdog26372

There's nothing to back up other than facts. Both RC and AA8 adjust boost using the same 2 plugs to start, then AA8 adds the cam sensor plug so that boost is different based on different rpms. AA8 has added boost of anywhere from 2.7-5.8 depending on rpm (this is particularly beneficial to RWD cars as too much boost down low and you will have traction issues, also cruising on highway at lower RPM's and having comparably better gas mileage as you aren't adding as much boost below 3,500 rpm's). RC is simply a fixed I believe 3.5 or 4 regardless of RPM.

Next is the method of altering the map up or down. RC you have to disconnect the tune and take out 8 tiny screws and then turn a dial inside the box. AA8 has the dial easily accessible on the outside. Not that you change the tune a bunch, but simply a better design. Finally the AA8 mounts to an existing bolt under a cover by the passenger side. The RC really has no method of mounting other than zip tie to wherever you find a place for it, most likely in the hot engine bay.

I can't say I'd recommend a swap if you've already paid for the RC, but for new buyers I see zero advantage and a few disadvantages actually of the RC vs. the AA8 for identical prices.

No stage 1 tune is going to show any better dyno numbers than others really. They simply up the boost and you can adjust how much upping the box does (JB stage 1, RC Ultimate and AA8). The AA8 to me is better because rpm specific boost changes makes sense to smooth out the power delivery and with its ease of tune adjustment. If adding downpipe and/or E85 mixes none of these stage 1/1.5 tunes will give you the best results; really need stage 2 JB4 for that. Just my 2 cents.

Well said Crashnbrn5 there you go

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by louielouie

Haha, my friend lives in SD and says there's no traffic. Sounds like someones got the lead foot

There were a few posts in the past about discount codes. Think it was ROBNYC?My girlfriend's birthday is on the same week as Valentines so if my wallet survives that, would be great to have it ready.

Let me know if you survive Valentine day.
I have them in stock ready to install in your car.

[moldcad]

About using or not using the CAM sensor in addition to MAP/MAF: back when I had N20 in my now gone 528xi (for which I craved for every bit of additional performance), I tested another of these basically the same boxes - namely the Speedbuster, which also added CAM in its later model (I tested both - with and without CAM sensor). Frankly, using by butt dyno, no difference at all. Both were equally bad in lacking any linearity in the extra power delivery - they increased the initial lag, and then rocketed my F10 like crazy (which was sometimes even dangerous). So - while perhaps modulating the extra boost according to RPM might be better for the engine health - no spectacular addition of extra power (or smoothness) compared to MAP/MAF sensors only (at least with Speedbuster, but - like I said - they are all the same imho)...

[moldcad]

Following the Speedbuster, I used the RC Ultimate on my N20 F10 quite a lot and found it programmed better - the boost started earlier, so less hesitation and a very distinctive pull even in Comfort mode and RPM just above 1,200 - all that improving power delivery linearity. Since I replaced the 528xi with my current M235i, I still had the RCU collecting dust - but finally some 2 months ago I sent it to the Manufacturer for reflashing for N55. They charged me for that and for the cables (the latter being strange, as they kept my N20 cables); anyway - including shipment - it cost me some Euro 100. On the day it came back, I visited their webpage seeking some installation instructions in the M235i - only to find out that they have dropped price, and include one free reflash as well as engine warranty (!!!). I was mad, but unfortunately my reflashed RCU is considered a "previous model" and all those goodies don't apply

Anyway, I'm going to test it on my M235i soon - any advise on the best placement of the RCU box? I'd be grateful for your solutions guys (perhaps even with some pics) -TIA.

Piotr