[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by CatchF22DirtyF30

Unfortunately did not have the ability to run logs at the dyno, but will be reading some later today. Gas quality is questionable, but surely cannot account for almost 50 or more horsepowers that are missing.

You'd be surprised with how much impact poor fuel quality can have. When I was running some crap 93 octane, and no ethanol blended, my car would take off in the lower revs getting the torque numbers but then as the car revved up towards redline it was a dog running into significant timing corrections which killed the power. The logs will tell the story for sure.

[CatchF22DirtyF30]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

You'd be surprised with how much impact poor fuel quality can have. When I was running some crap 93 octane, and no ethanol blended, my car would take off in the lower revs getting the torque numbers but then as the car revved up towards redline it was a dog running into significant timing corrections which killed the power. The logs will tell the story for sure.

You give me great hope, will see what the logs say later today.

Thank you for your input!

[230iZTR]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

THat's sweet. What does someone pay for this type of battery?

Antigravity has been the most affordable recently at ~$800 US for a Group48/H6 equivalent (mine was a bit under that due to openbox/demo use). But as a point of comparison, an OEM BMW unit (a rebranded Braille) from the M4 GTS is going to be $1500-ish.

Theoretically they should have double the service life of an OEM absorbent glass-mat battery at ~10 years for a LiFePo4 compared to ~5 years for an AGM, so the overall cost isnt as bad when you amortize it out.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by CatchF22DirtyF30

What is your mods?

Does my signature not show up?
I’m an N55 - looks like you’re a B58, and running on a Mustang dyno which read 8-10% lower than a Dynojet.

I have intake, downpipe, intercooler, muffler (“exhaust”) turbo inlet and diverter valve and a StageFP tune.

[Ajowhan]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

You'd be surprised with how much impact poor fuel quality can have. When I was running some crap 93 octane, and no ethanol blended, my car would take off in the lower revs getting the torque numbers but then as the car revved up towards redline it was a dog running into significant timing corrections which killed the power. The logs will tell the story for sure.

Here I am seeing you called some crap 93 octane and wondering how it fares against the best 91 we can find here in Cali

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by Ajowhan

Here I am seeing you called some crap 93 octane and wondering how it fares against the best 91 we can find here in Cali

I'm thinking fresh 91 would be better than older 93. The place I have bought 93 from (Shell V power station) is close to my house but it isnt very busy. I don't know all the science stuff behind it but I believe the lower quality is due to the gas sitting at the station for a while.

Some local car guys have recommended to me getting the 92 octane from CostCo since it is such a busy station.

I came across a station last year about 20 minutes from my house that sells both 93 octane and E85 at the same pump, and it is in a busy location. That's the only place I go now. Now that I have the TU pump in place I'm almost always supplementing with E which has kept me out of timing corrections.

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Does my signature not show up?

Nope. This post and your previous ones do not show your signature.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

Nope. This post and your previous ones do not show your signature.

It’s because sometimes I’m on my phone. Well, that’s unfortunate

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

I'm thinking fresh 91 would be better than older 93. The place I have bought 93 from (Shell V power station) is close to my house but it isnt very busy. I don't know all the science stuff behind it but I believe the lower quality is due to the gas sitting at the station for a while.

Some local car guys have recommended to me getting the 92 octane from CostCo since it is such a busy station.

I came across a station last year about 20 minutes from my house that sells both 93 octane and E85 at the same pump, and it is in a busy location. That's the only place I go now. Now that I have the TU pump in place I'm almost always supplementing with E which has kept me out of timing corrections.

I had some gas sitting outside summer and winter for a few years. It was in various tightly-sealed metal and plastic gas cans.

Assuming the gas was no longer good, I took it into my local shop to see if they could dispose of it for me. They wanted to know why I thought it was bad. I told them and they said "Let's give it the smell test." I'm like "What's that?" Apparently, bad gas does (can?) have an odor to it. They smelled it and said it was still good. I smelled it and it smelled fresh to me, so I just put it in my Tundra.

I'd be interested if there's any data out there on how to determine if a volume of gasoline has become something you shouldn't put in your car. Something like a ph test strip would be ideal, wouldn't it.

[AmuroRay]

It becomes varnish if it sits long enough, but It has to be a while is my understanding.

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by dradernh

I had some gas sitting outside summer and winter for a few years. It was in various tightly-sealed metal and plastic gas cans.

Assuming the gas was no longer good, I took it into my local shop to see if they could dispose of it for me. They wanted to know why I thought it was bad. I told them and they said "Let's give it the smell test." I'm like "What's that?" Apparently, bad gas does (can?) have an odor to it. They smelled it and said it was still good. I smelled it and it smelled fresh to me, so I just put it in my Tundra.

I'd be interested if there's any data out there on how to determine if a volume of gasoline has become something you shouldn't put in your car. Something like a ph test strip would be ideal, wouldn't it.

Darnit, too many variables and things I don't understand. Is gas like wine where there are good and bad vintages??

If the test solution doesn't exist you should invent it. I will be one of your first investors.

[freakystyly]

Can google mechanic-in-a-bottle-2-in-1-gasoline-quality-test-swabs

I have no idea if they work...

As far as I know, these cars are a lot more sensitive to fuel quality after tuning. There's an even ACN tune for reduced quality fuels.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

Darnit, too many variables and things I don't understand. Is gas like wine where there are good and bad vintages??

If the test solution doesn't exist you should invent it. I will be one of your first investors.

It takes more than a year, you should be ok

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

It takes more than a year, you should be ok

If it isn't aged gas then its poor quality then. The only time I have been able to run my stage 2 tune (multiple octane settings) without timing corrections was when I supplemented ethanol into the tank. At least there is a station close by with both 93 and E85 so I should be grateful.

[happyjack]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

It takes more than a year, you should be ok

this is false. ethanol gas starts to deteriorate much more quickly. by the 3-month point it's pretty much garbage unless you're using an ethanol-specific fuel stabilizer.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

If it isn't aged gas then its poor quality then. The only time I have been able to run my stage 2 tune (multiple octane settings) without timing corrections was when I supplemented ethanol into the tank. At least there is a station close by with both 93 and E85 so I should be grateful.

Check the plugs and coils. I replaced mine and a world of difference, also consider using a 91octane map for 93oct and using top tier gas.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by happyjack

this is false. ethanol gas starts to deteriorate much more quickly. by the 3-month point it's pretty much garbage unless you're using an ethanol-specific fuel stabilizer.

Deteriorate yes, but foul the car - no.

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Check the plugs and coils. I replaced mine and a world of difference, also consider using a 91octane map for 93oct and using top tier gas.

I did replace the plugs last summer. The coils are still original. I've just gotten used to having to supplement ethanol when running stage 2 maps. I will run stage 1 91 OCT map when only using 93 octane and no ethanol.

[freakystyly]

With spring supposedly around the corner, I ceramic coated the summer wheels again. Shopping around for front rubber replacements, the shoulders are bald and middle nearing wear bars. Not bad for 2017 rubber I guess.

[ferraricare]

I'm getting ready to install the M Performance LSD and the instructions I found say 500 mile break in and fluid change.

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by ferraricare

I'm getting ready to install the M Performance LSD and the instructions I found say 500 mile break in and fluid change.

I can't recall where I got my break in instructions but I went with a 1200 mile break in and then a fluid change. Right after installation you are supposed to do a bunch of figure 8's, and several left and right full-clocked turns. Then mild to moderate driving until after the fluid change.

[amutti]

Brought my car to the dealer for oil change and alignment. After a little over 10,000 miles my rear tires are 2.52mm off the wear bar, the fronts are 4.09mm. I asked the dealer to rotate the tires back to front and they said they don’t do that. Why? The tires are the same size all around. Is there something I’m missing? It’s a M240i x drive, tires are Continental DWS06+.

Also, I’ve read a bunch of posts saying not to just replace on pair of tires with x drive due to issues with the varying sizes. Seems like I’m naturally going in that direction.