05-13-2021, 10:12 AM | #23 | |
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https://ecoplugsystem.com/ Only $10 at my local auto zone!! Looks extremely promising honestly |
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05-13-2021, 01:45 PM | #24 | |
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05-31-2021, 08:19 PM | #25 |
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Niice! I understand using the insert for the stock bolt. Why not just source a new drain plug and copper washer after tapping?
I get anxiety about leaks even though I see you used sealant.
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14' M235i~ Pure stage 2 turbo, Wagner EVO III IC, VRSF downpipe/straight piped exhaust, Pure inlet pipe, CTS intake, PR coils, Dorch S2 HPFP, X-HP, Turbosmart dual port, BM3 Jordan E85 tune.
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06-01-2021, 02:15 PM | #26 |
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I actually did get a new drain plug and washer from my local BMW dealer, I believe I mentioned it in the post that shows the repair process. Just checked it out the other day and no leaks at all it's holding up well.
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06-01-2021, 05:01 PM | #27 |
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Nice! I meant different size, not a new oem bolt. Either way looks good and I read the whole thread ha. Keeping it oem is not a bad thing at all
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14' M235i~ Pure stage 2 turbo, Wagner EVO III IC, VRSF downpipe/straight piped exhaust, Pure inlet pipe, CTS intake, PR coils, Dorch S2 HPFP, X-HP, Turbosmart dual port, BM3 Jordan E85 tune.
Last edited by Steventalon1; 06-01-2021 at 05:42 PM.. |
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10-28-2021, 06:58 PM | #28 | |
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Great walkthrough, may have to do myself
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I would really appreciate if we could exchange contact information, so you can walk me through the stages of what you did, step by step. I have not rethreaded anything before but I have fairly mechanically savvy. My email: louiscarter6@gmail.com Kind Regards, Louis |
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10-29-2021, 02:43 PM | #29 | ||
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The first thing I did was drain the oil from the oil pan and oil filter and left the M235i on rhino ramps with the drain plug out for 3 days in my garage until I received the Timesert kit. Once I received the Timesert kit I started out with the first step in the process which was using the supplied drill bit to remove the old threads. For this I suggest you do it by hand if you enlarge the photos I posted you will see I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 11mm deep socket to drill out the old damaged threads. I would not use a electric drill for this but it's up to you. Just make sure you start slow and make sure the bit is going in straight. Also make sure to put some grease on the drill bit to catch the filings before you start. You will need to back out the drill bit a few times during the process. The second step is to make sure you have a T-tap handle I got mine at Northern Tool to use with the boring bit and also put grease on the boring bit as seen on the photos. The bit goes in directly into the drain hole, you will have to apply a good amount of upward pressure while turning the T-tap handle. You will know once you are done because the bit will bottom out and you won't be able to cut into the oil pan further. Also make sure to clean the drain hole after each step. The third step is to create new threads for the Timesert to thread into. You will need to use the tap that comes in the kit and attach it to the T-tap handle and apply grease to the threads of the tap. This step is where you have to make sure you create the threads with the tap very straight. So that the Timesert goes in straight and sits flush with the oil pan. You will need to go slow for this step and create a few threads then back out the tap and then start again and create a few more. Repeat the process until you are able to thread in the entire tap into the oil pan. The last step is to make sure to clean your newly created threads very well. I used some blue shop towels and brake cleaner to get rid of all the grease and filings. Now you can insert the Timesert with the high temperature thread locker / sealer, using the M12 x 1.5 threaded tool that comes with the kit and the T-tap handle. I was generous with the threadlocker and covered all the threads of the Timesert. I purchased the Timesert brand threadlocker at the same time I ordered the kit, instead of going to the auto parts store and getting red locktight. You will feel some resistance as you thread in the Timesert but that is normal it and suppose to happen so that it stays attached to the oil pan. Once you get past that you will have installed the Timesert properly and should have it sitting flush, wipe any excess threadlocker with a blue shop towel. I then let it dry for 48 hours but I believe the threadlocker says all you need is 24 hours just verify that on the bottle. Lastly I used 3 quarts of cheap synthetic 5W-30 oil to flush out the oil pan of any filings. I left the oil out in the sun so it would flow easily through the engine and out of the drain hole when I poured it in. For this I used 2 of the 3 quarts. I then hand tightened my new OEM BMW drain bolt and washer that I purchased at my local dealership and poured in the last quart of cheap oil and waited 30 minutes to see if there were any leaks. There were none so I then drained out the last quart of cheap oil out and proceeded with the regular oil change with 6.5 liters of BMW 0W-30 and a new oil filter with gaskets. I didn't torque the drain bolt to 25 nm like the factory specs states. I went with 20 nm for peace of mind. Hope this helps out let me know if you have any other questions. |
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05-15-2024, 09:01 PM | #30 |
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hey i am having the same issue on a 12 335i. i had a question about the first picture, was there a missing portion of the threads in the pad i put an oversized plug in it a while back and it looked like there wasn't very many threads to grab on wondering if you had the same, thanks.
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05-17-2024, 02:34 PM | #31 |
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OP, man I'm sorry to hear of all the trouble you had to go through on your new purchase...especially with only 30k miles!!
I recently (in Feb) purchased a used f23 with 67k miles and have been fortunate to not have any issues with it. Hope rest of your car is in perfect order so you can enjoy it, rather than wrenching on it! |
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