09-21-2018, 10:15 AM | #24 |
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09-30-2018, 06:39 PM | #26 |
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09-30-2018, 07:28 PM | #27 |
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10-02-2018, 02:46 PM | #28 |
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I decided to upgrade the rear speakers. I said I wouldn't, but just knowing the HK's were still back there was bugging me, lol.
I decided to go with the Eton B100N components. Despite what the box says, these are only rated for 50w RMS. Side by side shot of the drivers with the passive crossovers for the tweeters. Looks like the Eton tweeters have a better crossover with a capacitor and an inductor (2nd order), but I don't know the crossover point. The woofer has no crossover so it's playing full range sound. I have the high pass on the Match amp set at about 200hz to the rear speakers. Installation didn't take long at all. Maybe 20 minutes per side, but I was taking my time making sure I didn't scratch anything. I can say that I noticed quite a difference between the HK's and the Etons when playing only the rear speakers. But with the way I have the system set up, it's hard to tell. I have the rear speakers set to where I can just barely hear them. They are more for rear-fill. Could I have lived without upgraded the rears? Sure. But it was just nagging at me knowing the HK's were still there... Oh, I also got a Helix Director to hook up to the Match amp. It'll give me a bit more control over the DSP and 20 more DSP presets. I'm waiting for some more electronic goodies to come in so I can install it all at once. |
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10-02-2018, 03:29 PM | #30 |
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I got them from eBay seller arc-hof. https://www.ebay.com/str/acrhof
They shipped from Germany and were delivered in less than a week. The B100N is the component set for the rear. If you want the components for the front you want the B100W. Coax versions of those speakers have an X in their name; like B100XN and B100XW. |
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10-17-2018, 07:50 PM | #33 |
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11-04-2018, 03:06 PM | #34 |
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Got another gadget to add to the setup.
The label on it is a bit misleading. It's a Mobridge DA1 which is not a D/A pre-amplifier. It's a MOST bus to toslink converter. Also, I KNOW it's overkill and I probably won't be able to hear the difference between the OEM balanced analog signal and going this route using the MOST bus, but this is one of my hobbies. And I have fun doing this. And my OCD says that going full digital to the dsp is better. So there! I got my inspiration from 2addicts user gtmax500 His build thread is here: https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1350726 |
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12-31-2018, 03:23 PM | #35 |
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I found some more time to install the Mobridge DA1.
First step was to rip apart the dash to get behind the headunit to connect the MOST net Y-cable. I was sweating bullets the whole time scared I was going to scratch something. Next was running the 4m MOST cable to the trunk. Once again, scary stuff to do to a new car. DA1 in the trunk Final product. I have the DA1 mounted behind the ASD amp. I know it looks like the MOST cable is being pulled too tight but it's not. It's pretty stiff cable and that's just the way it lays in there. There's about 3-4 inches of slack in the cable. While I had the interior torn apart, I ran the control cable for the Helix Director. I temporarily mounted the control unit in the center console until I can get a proper housing made for it. Now I wish I could say my install went as easily as gtmax500's. I'm currently having a issue with the DA1 not wanting to be programmed to the "BMW" MOST net standard. When I use the Mobridge setup software, the DA1 always reverts to "Audi" no matter how many times I select "BMW". I'm still waiting for a reply from Mobridge support about that. One the plus side, the Director is working beautifully. |
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12-31-2018, 03:25 PM | #36 |
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I had to buy a new Windows laptop to get the DA1 programmed to "BMW". So now I am running digital from the headunit to the amp.
Here's a pic of the latest tuning session: This is the closest I could get the eq curve to match the "house curve" in the Audiotec Fischer DSP program. I've got all crossovers set to 24db Linkwitz-Riley. Crossover points are: 200hz high-pass for front/center/rear 70hz high-pass/200hz low-pass for underseat woofers 70hz low-pass for trunk subwoofer To try to combat the mid-bass hole the SWS 8Xi's have, I actually boosted their gain higher than the rest of the channels. That way, the eq could cut the frequencies that were too high while leaving most of the mid-bass at the appropriate level. While this improved the sound a lot, you can see that there is still a dip around 160hz. Honestly, I don't notice it while playing music. I also took the opportunity to setup some more sound profiles in the Helix Director: 1. All speakers playing, including center and trunk sub. 2. All speakers and sub playing; center off. 3. All speakers and sub playing; center and rears off. 4. All speakers playing, including center; trunk sub off (this involved deleting the high-pass crossover point of the underseat woofers so that they play down to 20hz. I may add more sound profiles in the future, but for now this will do. |
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02-05-2019, 02:26 PM | #37 |
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Could use help
Hi,
Need a bit of guidance as I know nothing about car audio. I just picked up a full Bavsound setup and based on much reading & research on these forums, realized it wont do much without an AMP upgrade too for my M235i with HK. I see two coming up in the comments: a "bimmertech" 7 channel one and the Match Up 7BMW that the OP installed here and both appear to be identical in specs in manufacturer. Is that not the case? Are these things all just Plug and Play? Do I need to be some sort of audio engineer to get them set up properly? Are both amps essentially the same thing or is one preferred over the other? Thanks in advance to anyone that can advise. Best, M |
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02-05-2019, 06:12 PM | #38 | |
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The Audiotec Fischer Match UP 7BMW is 5x65w 4ohm plus 2x160w 2ohm. Both have the same DSP in them, except the PP 86DSP is 9 channel where as the UP 7BMW is 8 channel. They are both plug and play. You will either have to tune it yourself or find a Brax/Helix/Match dealer that can tune it for you. The files that Audiotec Fischer has on their website are generic tune files and won't sound good with those speakers. |
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02-05-2019, 10:34 PM | #39 | |
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So which amp would you recommend to go with the Bavsound speakers? The amp with 4ohm& 2ohm channels, is that better than the other with 8 at 4ohm (as I believe the underseat subs are 2ohm)? By that logic, would that mean that the Match UP 7BMW would be a better match for my Bavsounds? Or, do you recommend a completely different amp aside from these two? |
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02-06-2019, 06:39 PM | #40 | |
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02-06-2019, 06:43 PM | #41 | |
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The only problem with buying this amp and using it on the OEM HK speakers is that after a while you might want to improve the sound even more; then you end up like me and replace everything in the car. lol |
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02-14-2019, 02:22 PM | #43 | |
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Dear Miami, Perhaps my experience would be helpful to you. After getting a 2018 240i, I bought the Bavsound stage 1 speakers, the Bavsound version 2 subs, and the Bimmertech amp that Bavsound sold with the speakers. This took place in stages, because not everything was available initially. Each time one of the HK components was replaced with a Bavsound component, there was a noticeable improvement in the sound, and when the final component, the subs, were installed, I found the overall sound to be excellent. What is relevant to your question is that the amp had a pre-installed DSP program that worked so well that, even though I had acquired a microphone and planned to do some tweaking, I decided I was better off leaving it alone. According to someone at Bavsound I spoke to, the DSP program was tuned for the 2 Series using the Bavsound stage 1 speakers and ghost v. 2 subs. I would recommend that you call Bavsound and ask whether this program, or perhaps another Bavsound program, would be right for your car and the Bavsound speakers you bought. |
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02-17-2019, 10:17 AM | #44 | |
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I checked, and it looks like Bavsound is working on their own amp and no longer sells the Bimmertech. I guess I'll have to wait on that. Regarding speakers, I ended up finding a used set of Stage 1 and Ghost Subs from an F30 sedan (clearly 2 extra speakers for rear doors which I dont need). I managed to install but was NOT a perfect fit, as I for some reason thought they would be. Subs were loose and the front mid magnet was too large. I made it work though with some creativity and it actually sounds pretty friggin amazing, honestly. So, next step is an amp to power these properly. HUGE TIP for any attempting DIY install: disconnect your batter before you do anything and only reconnect when EVERYTHING, including your seats, are all back in place. Otherwise you dash will light up like an x-mas tree like mine did, chock full of warning lights. |
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