[selmeralto]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Ohh ok do you have a picture. I thought i saw someone drilling, and putting a speed clip in for hole #3?

edit: nevermind i found the post

Great. It's just a matter of saving the original BMW screws that hold down the OEM speakers and finding a wide washer or some other thing-a-ma-jig that will overlap the new speaker's edge. I also put 1/4" window foam under the speaker plate to seal the speaker.

If anyone needs more info than this let me know and I'll snap a picture.

[simoneves]

Eton set ordered from ExtremeAudio Germany. I guess the springs can wait.

[zipphreak]

I have a dedicated 12" woofer for lows in the trunk, does anyone know what would be a good dedicated 8" mid-driver to replace the underseat woofers?

[zipphreak]

It's official, i finally got my JL C2-400X's installed in the rear. Overall the process was pretty straight forward.

Requirements:
JL C2-400X
Pair of OEM style connector harnesses
Plastic Trim removal kit to remove grills
T25 for the screws holding them in
Sound dampening mat
Mat install roller tool
Uncarriage bolt/washer for third screw (BMW part 07149126886)

[Sam_M]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

I have a dedicated 12" woofer for lows in the trunk, does anyone know what would be a good dedicated 8" mid-driver to replace the underseat woofers?

Focal IFBMW-sub V2 fit.

More info in this thread.

http://babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=74&t=92733

For around £550 you can replace the front, rears and underseat subs with plug and play focal units.

[chemh0ser]

Did the sound deadening Material make a big difference on the rear deck?

[zipphreak]

I dunno but it sure looks cool! Added an extra hour onto the deal, but it was pleasing.

I want to take off the whole deck and add a layer undernear, and find a way to prevent the rattle from this thing. It is very loosely attached and flaps around with a real trunk subwoofer, very F*cking annoying

[Beartato]

I was just about to ask in this thread about the third screw for the rears, but I guess I don't have to now thanks!

Ever since install I've noticed a tapping sound from the rear on bumpy roads, and I can only assume it's the speaker moving.

[XutvJet]

With respect to the BMW OEM Speaker Connector Harness Pigtails, it's not entirely clear in this thread how many sets you should order from the Ebay site. Does ordering one set comprise enough pigtails to complete the install of two speakers OR do you need to order two sets to complete the install? Thanks.

[zipphreak]

One set is a pair of pigtails. It does state pair if you read the auction I know the picture is misleading.

One pair. When you install check the red wire matches the red striped wire in the OEM connector. Because i had to swap the pins on mine to match. I was able to do this on the pigtail connector, with a small flat jewelers screwdrivers, to remove each pin and re-insert into the opposite position. It's very easy, there is a plastic cover over the top of the connector hiding the recess where you can press down on the locking tab on the pins.. Once you remove that little locking tab, you can insert your tiny flathead and while pulling it will slide through, you will have to do it twice as it passes through the connector. When you do it, you will see what i mean. Go slowly and gently, the tab will break if you try to force it out.. When you get it, it pulls through nice and easy.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

One set is a pair of pigtails. It does state pair if you read the auction I know the picture is misleading.

One pair. When you install check the red wire matches the red striped wire in the OEM connector. Because i had to swap the pins on mine to match. I was able to do this on the pigtail connector, with a small flat jewelers screwdrivers, to remove each pin and re-insert into the opposite position. It's very easy, there is a plastic cover over the top of the connector hiding the recess where you can press down on the locking tab on the pins.. Once you remove that little locking tab, you can insert your tiny flathead and while pulling it will slide through, you will have to do it twice as it passes through the connector. When you do it, you will see what i mean. Go slowly and gently, the tab will break if you try to force it out.. When you get it, it pulls through nice and easy.

Or, you can flip the connections at the speaker itself. Doesn't matter where, just as long as they're switched if the pigtail on the LR speaker doesn't match red-to-striped-red.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by Beartato

I was just about to ask in this thread about the third screw for the rears, but I guess I don't have to now thanks!

Ever since install I've noticed a tapping sound from the rear on bumpy roads, and I can only assume it's the speaker moving.

Not necessarily. Because of its length, the pigtail itself can knock against metal and cause a commotion. I've had to mess with mine twice ...

... but just in case, I've used Loctite (the lightest variety; red, I think) on my third speaker screw. No' mo' rattling, knock on wood.

[zipphreak]

Well if you've already crimped on your connectors on the pigtails for the C2-400X's you'll noticed there is a large one and a small one... Thus i did it my way !

Plus what's the point in doing it if your not going to do it right Regardless it works either work. Takes a few moments to do it right.

[BishUK]

This is a great thread and super helpful. Off the back of it I've purchased the JL Audios for rear, Eatons for Front, pigtails, dynamat and ASD harness - so all good to go.
But just wondering, why are we not replacing the rears with the same component Eaton set we are using in the front?
Is it a cost thing vs audible improvements (JL's being cheaper than Eatons)?
In a perfect world (which it isn't) wouldn't it be better to have same drivers all round and aren't the rears an easy swap out/swap in?
Thanks

[mdt]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

The center channel isn't necessary for music reproduction and actually on the HK system the center channel messes with the soundstage using substandard speakers. It makes the sound very diffuse. By disconnecting the center channel you get a spatial sound array with more definition and a cleaner sound with more bite.

What if you have upgraded the speakers? That's what I've done, but have not connected them. I'm wondering whether it was a mistake. It's presently lacking the balance I experienced prior to the upgrade. Reducing its contribution incrementally would probably be the best solution.

[simoneves]

Originally Posted by BishUK

This is a great thread and super helpful. Off the back of it I've purchased the JL Audios for rear, Eatons for Front, pigtails, dynamat and ASD harness - so all good to go.
But just wondering, why are we not replacing the rears with the same component Eaton set we are using in the front?
Is it a cost thing vs audible improvements (JL's being cheaper than Eatons)?
In a perfect world (which it isn't) wouldn't it be better to have same drivers all round and aren't the rears an easy swap out/swap in?
Thanks

I assumed it was because they are the best value for money of the speakers that would fit at the back (no depth restriction) but not in the doors.

[simoneves]

Originally Posted by mdt

What if you have upgraded the speakers? That's what I've done, but have not connected them. I'm wondering whether it was a mistake. It's presently lacking the balance I experienced prior to the upgrade. Reducing its contribution incrementally would probably be the best solution.

Yeah, with my Bimmertech amp I actually have the center turned down about 6dB but not off completely. This may change when I get my Etons installed.

[BishUK]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

Yes, use the grill. No contact on top and you don't want to risk having something puncture the cone. Also, the grill provides some protection from direct sunlight on the cones and surrounds.

Just to be clear also, are we double grilling in the rear?
JL-A grills and then OEM over the top?
Or just OEM grills?

[BishUK]

Originally Posted by simoneves

I assumed it was because they are the best value for money of the speakers that would fit at the back (no depth restriction) but not in the doors.

Yes thanks, there's a bit of an explanation as to why I've now seen earlier in the thread (page 3/4). Would seem blending the two speaker manufacturers compliments the over all sound as the JL's have a little more slam/punch than the Eatons - also costs benefits for no gain.

[mdt]

Originally Posted by simoneves

Yeah, with my Bimmertech amp I actually have the center turned down about 6dB but not off completely. This may change when I get my Etons installed.

Is that on the map you uploaded in the other thread? I'm going to try that this weekend.

[selmeralto]

Originally Posted by BishUK

Just to be clear also, are we double grilling in the rear?
JL-A grills and then OEM over the top?
Or just OEM grills?

Just install the speakers



and use the OEM grille over that.

[BishUK]

Originally Posted by selmeralto

Just install the speakers

Attachment 1538384

and use the OEM grille over that.

Cheers, that's what I thought but best to check!