12-06-2021, 08:44 PM | #1 |
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No engine coolant wtf
Sorry, this is a panic post. I literally just got my engine coolant drained/flushed replaced last week. I start my car just now and get a warning saying:
Engine coolant low, possible engine damage I just backed out of my driveway on to the main road and immediately reversed and parked back inside my garage. I open up my hood and find two engine coolant caps, open the small one first. Its at minimum (barely anything?) and then I open the large one and its completely empty!!!! Like its literally clean, nothing at all is in there????? I will attach photos, please tell me this dealership didn't forget to top it up after flushing it or forgot to close a seal at the bottom or something?
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12-06-2021, 09:36 PM | #2 |
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You say it was the dealer who did the coolant flush? On the B58 it requires a vacuum system and fairly involved procedure. If they put the junior tech on it, they may have missed a step. Your main coolant tank cap area seems to have some white crusty deposits, so perhaps the cap wasn’t sealing properly, either. The intercooler reservoir is at the correct level, it should be between min and max, which it is.
I would take it back and tell them to do the bleed again, but ensure it is first filled with the proper BMW 50/50 blue coolant / distilled water mix if you are going to drive it there. Last edited by aerobod; 12-06-2021 at 10:29 PM.. |
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12-07-2021, 09:44 AM | #4 |
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12-07-2021, 11:46 AM | #5 |
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BMW switched to green coolant two years ago, everything in my 2021 M240 is green. Dealer confirmed today while I was in getting my first service.
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12-07-2021, 12:16 PM | #6 |
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Yes, looks like BMW switched to green coloured coolant for cars built after 2018, it is backwardly compatible with the blue coolant but it isn't the same as IAT green coolant generally available on the market, it is HT-12 spec coolant vs the G48 blue coolant spec.
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12-07-2021, 12:30 PM | #7 | |
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This was a week ago, I haven't driven my car too much since then. I just got in touch with the foreman who said to top it off with the same coolant because there must've been an air pocket as they didn't do the vacuum method and the reservoir needs to be topped up. Unbelievable they wouldn't tell me it requires a different method of coolant flushing, otherwise I would've taken it to a euro shop or BMW in the first place. Do you guys think the foreman is giving me the right advice to turn it on after topping it up, idling car 10 minutes and seeing if the coolant level maintains and then driving back to dealership to make sure the drain cap is sealed?
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12-07-2021, 12:41 PM | #8 |
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The whoie system should be flushed (not just drained), if that Prestone coolant doesn't meet BMW specs (either G48 or HT-12). It should be done by a specialist or BMW dealer who has the correct procedure and uses either blue G48 traditional BMW coolant or the new HT-12 green BMW coolant. I would also have them check for any issues (if they can) that may have occurred due to a lack of coolant reaching parts of the cylinder head due to air bubbles in the system. The Honda shop foreman should be ashamed to just tell you to top off the system, due to them not knowing what to do to begin with.
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12-07-2021, 05:40 PM | #10 | |
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12-07-2021, 10:51 PM | #11 |
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Seriously... who in their right mind takes a BMW to a Honda dealership ?
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12-08-2021, 08:52 AM | #12 |
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Harsh, debatable. Wrong, definitely not.
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12-08-2021, 12:19 PM | #13 | |
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I was also initially just trying to get my tires swapped as that was the only shop taking same week appointments :/
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12-08-2021, 12:22 PM | #14 | |
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I'm working on rectifying it and will get in touch with BMW to redo the coolant flush -> check if any damage occurred. I will also be forwarding any costs incurred to the Honda dealership for this. Will keep you guys updated. Thanks for the information, I hope there is no major damage.
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12-08-2021, 01:54 PM | #15 |
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Just for future reference, the techs at the dealers do get automotive training. It's from the OEM they represent and on their own products. Cars are not "regular" or "irregular"; they are different from others. I would not take a Toyota to a Honda shop, as the difference in the level of product and process familiarity will be notable.
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12-08-2021, 02:05 PM | #16 | |
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12-08-2021, 02:20 PM | #17 | ||
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Lesson learned boys!
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12-08-2021, 02:50 PM | #18 |
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In a pinch.. tires, brakes, some basic suspension stuff would be ok for a competent shop. Try to find a reliable indy if possible for the rest. The dealership isn't always the best choice outside of warranty work.
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12-08-2021, 03:26 PM | #19 | |
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I'd add engine, transmission, and diff oil changes to the list of what a shop with capable people will be able to successfully perform. Because it has the right kind of people and the right equipment to meet my needs, I use a local performance shop for this basic sort of work. I generally learn some new things just hanging out in the shop chatting with them while they're doing the work. Based upon my experience with a couple of shops in New England, I continue to recommend BIMRS.org as a useful place to find qualified independents. More here: https://www.bimrs.org/.
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12-08-2021, 07:02 PM | #20 |
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The BMW dealership may have a video setup to film the service process. Mine does, which they use to try to upsell various services to you during a regular service. You could ask them to video their inspection and service. This will document all the mishandling by the previous shop so that you have the evidence.
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12-08-2021, 08:10 PM | #21 | |
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12-08-2021, 08:15 PM | #22 |
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Mike Miller's Lifetime Maintenance Schedule offers perspective on this subject.
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TC Kline Coilovers; H&R Front Bar; Wavetrac; Al Subframe Bushings; 18X9/9½ ARC-8s; 255/35-18 PS4S (4); Dinan Elite V2 & CAI; MPerf Orange BBK; Schroth Quick Fit Pro; Full PPF |
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