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Hmm, I haven't been able to find panels for under $70 a side. And I don't know who is buying new HK tweeters (been watching ebay) but if that's true there's certainly a credit back.
Still I went to the car to see - the wires come from the trunk to behind the dash before going into the door so you don't even have to take the door panel off to do this. So whether or not you are using the existing wiring, or running new wire from a new amp you would pre-wire the pods and leave a 3' section of wire hanging down.
Drill the hole and fish the wires down then mount the pod (ideally to the base of the pillar and not the dash itself - don't want to mess with that). Under the dash locate your new wires and the old ones. Simply splice and with a hair dryer/heat gun use pre-solder lined heat shrink to solder the old and new cables together. Then tie up and hide.
Based on the tennis ball method, where the tennis ball is approximately the size of a 3" mid (that can either be a coaxial or component), you can place a speaker pod in front of the mirror defroster vent and it will obstruct zero of the windshield. It's not wider than the pillar already is and doesn't come out any further than the sail panel already.
I'm thinking a 4" may be too large to put in the pillar but haven't tested.
If I were to leave the 4" mid in the door and put only the tweeter next to the sail panel in a pod but not in the panel the external passive crossover prevents me from having to run any cables in the door so nothing fancy. Simply cut into the cable from the amp under the dash, add the crossover, and run the woofer-lead back to the existing cable that was cut that goes in the door, and the new cable from the pod to the tweet portion of the crossover.
If I knew someone with a 3d printer I could make a mock up to see if cosmetically I like how discrete it is and how it would or would not hurt the window defroster. A flush mount on the pillar is more slick than a pod I feel.
Seth
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