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Originally Posted by pmcmtnbkr
thanks for the information I have given it a try and will see what tomorrow morning brings. I can say after doing this and clearing the codes the cars engine idle is even smoother now than it was. I have read through so many post tonight and many had the same thought process it normal, its HPFP, and replace a bunch of parts. Only 1 or 2 made any mention of the MAF sensor and your information is by far the best and most logical process thank you
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I can't take all the credit, was posted by another veteran member on here but the thread is pretty old. Glad you were able to notice the smoother idle right away, I sure did as well. I'm going on day 4 (did this Sunday evening) since doing this fix and the car starts great every cold start!
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Originally Posted by MegaMatt3
This also happened to me last summer on my '16 and is documented with videos in a separate thread of mine. Exact same issue as yours, and my local Euro shop couldn't make any progress whatsoever. I wasn't fortunate enough to find the MAF process.
It eventually went away as the mornings turned cool and then cold, and didn't come back this year when they got warm again. Very strange.
I'll also say my stock charge pipe just exploded a week ago and I'm in the middle of ordering a new one. With the charge pipe disconnected, my car starts but doesn't idle for long before completely conking out. Assuming too much air. In light of that issue, I had started to assume my issue last summer was maybe because the charge pipe connection was poor and was leaking air or something.
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The reason it won't idle long before stalling out is because it doesn't have accurate readings from the MAP sensor (the sensor on he chargepipe closest to the throttlebody). So the DME is seeing air volume from the MAF that doesn't match up with what the MAP sensor is seeing = DME freaks out and throws too much or not enough fuel = stall out. Best to not run the car until you can get the charge pipe fixed.
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Originally Posted by 1more1
+1 for the MAF fix. Finally fixed my stumble after unplugging it before a cold start. What's weird is that clearing the adaptions through BM3 didn't fix this. I figured that would be similar to the "hard reset".
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Probably has to do with how BM3 adjust tables based on target boost as opposed to air volume and air temp like the factory table uses.