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OK, so I hopped in under the car today and was able to make some more adjustments. In my opinion, what Dinan attempted to solve in design, failed a bit in function.
I ended up loosening all the clamps and the hanger nut. I then twisted the front pipe as much as I could to bring the first elbow up leveling it as much as I could. It honestly doesn't look like it did much but it was enough to crate the gap needed over the crossmember.
Where I think it is causing people a problem is that the part over the cross member sags
when the clamps are not yet tight. So even though you are making adjustments at the rear and middle by twisting the pipes, you are doing so with weight in the middle clamp causing a droop.
To combat this I first made sure the midpipe was pushed from the muffler end as far forward as reasonably possible, so there was more pipe overlap in the middle, then I took my hydraulic jack and set it right at the middle clamp and slightly jacked up the pipe. This seemed to give a better seating on the two mid pipe connections while i tightened everything and also let the rear clamp settle properly on the muffler so it wasn't sagging all silly like when making the rear adjustment.
I have good clearance now over the cross member, no rattle and the tail pipes are in a good position.
Be careful if you jack the pipe, your just trying to "hold" it in position. You don't want to bend it or push it up into the heat shield and damage anything.
Hope this helps, and god speed. For what should be a simple plug and play, I felt like I was solving one of those puzzles you buy at Cracker Barrel.
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