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Originally Posted by OldCrow7xx
If DSC off is full driver mode with no computer intervention, why is the E-LSD activated there? Isn't the point of this mode to let the wheels spin?
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The eLSD and LSDs are designed to make both tires spin (i.e. "lock-up") while under power in low traction situations and they add a lot more rear axle control and driver confidence. With an open differential (i.e., eLSD off), the tire that spins will keep spinning harder and harder whereas the other tire has little to no power going to it. This makes the car slower. See YT videos of open differentials vs LSD. You'll see what I'm talking about.
LSDs are imperative to things like drifting or track driving. You can also steer the rear while in a slide/drift with throttle inputs. The eSLD is no replacement for a mechanical LSD though. They're apples to oranges. The rear axle on my M235 felt really loose with the eLSD and it would not slide/drift gracefully. With the LSD, it feels like there's an extra 500+lbs of weight over the rear axle. There's that much more traction and the rear feels far more buttoned down. When it slides/drifts, it's so damn easy to make it do what you want with throttle inputs. In a straight line, it hooks so much better from a launch or low gear roll.
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Then also it seems "traction" mode is actually another name for "DTC activated" mode, which seems to me to be a sports inclined setting. If thats true (and maybe Im wrong) then why are all the other settings so weak? Like the throttle, steering and suspension etc- like why have a DTC mode for soft driving? Seems in conflict to me.
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Because BMW can in age of electronic control and wizardry.
Traction mode is great for snow driving where you want the suspension soft, the throttle inputs more muted, and can get some spin. This all helps with driving in the snow or slippery conditions.
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Finally whats the best solution for 0-60 pulls or 1/4 mile pulls? Sport would prevent the most wheel spin right but actually not have the most aggressive attack parameters in the other categories? And Sport+ would have the best attack parameters but allow for more wheel spin thus loosing time?
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Sport+ is probably your best option right now. With an automatic, don't use the launch control feature. Simply put the car in Sport+ and put the shifter in the Sport setting (let the car shift itself). Foot on brake hard, foot on gas slightly (i.e., bring the rpms up to 1,000). When it's time to go, hit the throttle to about 30%, and one second later, release the brakes. If the tires don't spin too much within a second of launching, go full throttle and hang on. Next run, up the throttle input to 50% and do the same launch sequence and see if the tires hold. The best launch on street tires is going to have a bit of spin. The tires should sound and feel like they're scampering across the pavement rather than all out spin. No spin means the engine is bogged down. This kills 0-60 and 1/4 mile elapsed time. Too much spin does the same.
With RWD, you can't launch like you can AWD. Not even close. It takes a lot of skill and practice, even with an automatic. Don't use launch control because all it will do is blow the tires off. On a launch, you can't just go full throttle. You have to feather the throttle a bit in 1st. This can be difficult with an automatic because the transmission ECU might assume since you're letting up on throttle a bit that you want it to upshift. You can try manual mode, but often times the car is quicker in true automatic mode. You'll need to research how to put the shifter in Sport mode so that the transmission ECU is less inclined to second guess your throttle inputs and upshift.