Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet
Mode Behavior
Eco = Dear God, no. Either grow a pair or sell the car because you're a puss.
Comfort = All nannies on, soft shocks, light steering, Comfort throttle (linear throttle control), eLSD off
Sport in Chassis = All nannies on, stiff shocks, heavy steering, Comfort throttle, eLSD off
Sport in Drivetrain = All nannies on, soft shocks, light steering, Sport throttle (quick throttle control), exhaust burbles, eLSD off
Sport in Chassis/Drivetrain = All nannies on, stiff shocks, heavy steering, Sport throttle (quick throttle control), exhaust burbles, eLSD off
Sport+ = Reduced nanny intervention (allows some spin and drift), stiff shocks, heavy steering, Sport throttle, exhaust burbles, eLSD off
Traction = Reduced nanny intervention (allows some spin and drift), soft shocks, light steering, Comfort throttle, exhaust burbles, eLSD off
DSC Off = All nannies off (full wheel spin, drifting, donuts), stiff shocks, heavy steering, Comfort throttle, exhaust burbles, eLSD on
As you can see, the eLSD is ONLY active in DSC Off.
The eLSD is decent, but a true LSD adds a ton more rear axle traction and control. It's apples to oranges. I've had LSDs in other cars and the M Performance LSD is so much more obvious in it's operation and the level of control and traction. I had no idea it would make such a difference. I drove my car for the first two years without the LSD. When the eLSD intervenes in a slide, it is a bit ham-fisted and can be very abrupt.
I STRONGLY suggest that if you're only experience with a torque rich RWD car is via a video game, you should run the stock tune first in Sport+ for a while so that you understand what the car feels like when the rear axle starts slide in the lower gears on and off acceleration in the straight line and in the turns. Then when you get comfortable with that, then try DSC Off. When you get comfortable with that, then go Stage 1 and so forth.
The biggest risk here is that the tires start spinning dramatically and the axle lifts and then slides/drift, then grips, then slides again, all the while you're adding and removing throttle and steering to compensate and keep control. Now you've got yourself in a tank slapper situation where the car sways side to side and could goes off road (or worse), usually ass first. Most every Mustang crash video on YT shows a driver getting in over their head with tire spin and then a tank slapper situation.
I'm not afraid of my car's power (380whp/400wtq) and find it controllable on dry pavement and good tires and when temps are above 50, but I've been driving high torque RWD cars since the early 1990s and most of the cars I owned didn't have stability control. I've also gotten myself in over my head in the past. Luckily I've never went off road or hurt anyone. Just hurt my ego.
Be careful. A RWD Stage 2 N55 F series can be a handful. Way more so than in stock form. You just can't go full throttle and hang on with RWD. There is a level of awareness and connection you need to have to feel what the rear axle is doing.
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Thank you for the info- very helpful.
Im gathering that this car was actually much simpler in AWD mode...
Also now that I finally understand the modes and the mode chart, I have a few questions.
If DSC off is full driver mode with no computer intervention, why is the E-LSD activated there? Isn't the point of this mode to let the wheels spin?
Then also it seems "traction" mode is actually another name for "DTC activated" mode, which seems to me to be a sports inclined setting. If thats true (and maybe Im wrong) then why are all the other settings so weak? Like the throttle, steering and suspension etc- like why have a DTC mode for soft driving? Seems in conflict to me.
Finally whats the best solution for 0-60 pulls or 1/4 mile pulls? Sport would prevent the most wheel spin right but actually not have the most aggressive attack parameters in the other categories? And Sport+ would have the best attack parameters but allow for more wheel spin thus loosing time?