Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh
The purpose of this build was to achieve a good balance between street and track. The car is not daily-driven. Track use will be three events per year, and I'll drive ~50 laps per event. Two events will be at Mid-Ohio, a handling track, and one at Watkins Glen, a high-speed track.
This is what was done to the car:
TC Kline Suspension Kit
Spring Rates: 350 F & 600 R
Camber: -1.9° F & -1.6° R
Toe: 1/32" IN F & 1/8" IN R
Corner Weight: 50.1%
Fender Roll (slight): F & R
Ride Height Drop: -1¼" F & -1" R
Turner Motorsport Aluminum Subframe Bushings
Brake Pads: Hawk DTC70
Brake Fluid: Castrol SRF
SS Brake Lines
If front roll is unacceptable on the track, an H&R front bar will be installed.
The alignment is designed to be used on both the street and the track. Expected tire life on the street is 8,000 miles. By blocking annual track days into a short window, a street alignment could be used for 10-11 months of the year.
I won't run this alignment nor these brakes particularly hard on the track. I built it to show novice and intermediate students the way around the track at my 7/10ths.
To see how the brakes fare on that heavy-braking track, I'll put brake temp paint on the rotors' edges and caliper temp strips on each of the calipers.
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Nicely done. Have you considered going toe out? The car drive lighter than it is but it's still a pig. The turn in is considerably better with toe out. The stock brakes handle the casual DE day great. Plenty of stopping power. I only swapped them out for stoptechs because they caught on fire after the seals kept leaking. As you already know, it's way cheaper to have your street pads/wheels/tires and swap them out for the track grear for each event. If you do decide to go that route, Carbotech XP20 F and XP12 rear is perfect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfGTI
How are the differential bushings? I feel that the rear end moves around under heavy power and I notice it more with the diff. I think differential bushings should feel much more planted, however my car primarily a street car so how is the NVH with the solid bushings?
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He swapped out the subframe bushings, not diff bushings. I can't say for sure if you'll hear any noise from the bushings being swapped out but I will say that there is a huge difference in noise. I have my interior stripped out and without the bushings, there is a pronounced gear whine (think race car). If you are planning having the car as a primary street car, I wouldn't touch many things. I can't imagine any circumstance on the street where you'd be able to tell any performance advantage with bushings. But yes, the oem bushings are very soft, you don't need a lot of power to make things shift. Get the car on the lift, take off the rear wheel, and give some things a wiggle. You can get a lot of stuff shifting with just your hands and body weight.