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      08-31-2020, 03:27 PM   #9
dradernh
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Drives: 2017 M240i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeysosa View Post
Wow, thanks for the in-depth response. I do have some questions though: 1.) What alignment and camber setup do you suggest? (As well as which camber plates) 2.) What tire setup do you have? I just got Michelin Sports, would these do? 3.) Should I replace control arms etc.? 4.) What brake pads and brake fluid combination do you suggest?
Thanks so much! Sorry for the novice questions :/
1) I can tell you what I chose, but that won't necessarily be what's best for your circumstances. See below for my build, where you'll see my camber settings (in post #13) and that I went with a TC Kline suspension package, including their camber plates. I haven't used any of the other brands; my previous cars had custom-built camber plates.

2) See #1. Also, msendit's recommendation that you use PSS' to start with is a good one.

3) This depends. If what you want to do is go to the track and have some fun they might be sufficient. I'm not really sure. I suspect most drivers will be better off with camber plates. If the bug bites you and you decide to do more than three events a year, you would probably be better off buying a quality set of coilovers and the camber plates that come with it. If I were in your shoes, I would seek out the nearest qualified shop that specializes in BMWs and prepares both track and race cars. A good shop will likely have a wealth of experience that outstrips what you'll find here.

4a) Stay away from so-called street/track pads. Fundamentally, those are street pads and are not well-suited to our cars when they're used hard on a race track. For pads, I can recommend Performance Friction PFC 08 (https://www.bimmerworld.com/PFC-08-R...-08-17-44.html) and Hawk DTC-70 (https://www.bimmerworld.com/Hawk-DTC...0-F82-F87.html). Note that both links are to front pads only; you'll need a set of front and rear pads for the track.

Racing pads will be fine on the track, but you may not like them on the street for the noise they can make and the significant amount of brake dust they produce. Me, I just deal with it; others choose to change pads for the track and then back again.

4b) I recommend Castrol SRF (it doesn't absorb water - more on that subject here: (https://www.bimmerworld.com/Castrol-...ake-Fluid.html) and AP Racing's R4 (https://www.essexparts.com/ap-radi-cal-r4-brake-fluid). Those fluids cost substantially more than something like Motul 660, which many drivers use and have been happy with.

It's best to flush racing brake fluids once a year instead of the scheduled once every two years for the OEM fluid.

If your brake pedal gets soft at the track, it's likely for one of two reasons: your brake fluid has been overheated and now needs to be bled, or you've experienced pad knock-back. More on the latter phenomenon in the second paragraph of the Anti-Knockback Springs section in this blog post: https://www.essexparts.com/ap-racing...-f80-m3-f82-m4.

I've experienced pad knockback in my cars at tracks where I've gone over certain curbs. The solution is to lightly tap the brake pedal with your left foot as soon as possible after going over those curbs and before the next braking zone. The issue is that you'll have a very soft brake pedal if you get pad knockback. If it happens, start pumping the brake pedal. It can be pretty scary.

Your instructor at the track should be willing to discuss all things braking with you. After all, they're what's keeping both of you safe once you're out there.

In case you haven't seen it, following is a link to what I think of as a basic street/track build. As you'll note, it wasn't inexpensive. It addresses brakes, tires, alignment, suspension, grip, and driver/passenger safety, and nothing else.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1532418

I recommend you also look at the build threads of msendit and capt_and. Sometimes, reading the builds of other drivers can prevent your making mistakes or going down dead-ends with your own car. Most track rats have gone through multiple iterations of suspensions, brakes, and tires, as well as other components. If you decide to develop your car, asking as you are for the experiences of those who have gone before you may help you to do as little of that as possible.

Good luck with it, and feel free to continue asking questions.
__________________
2017 M240i: 23.8K, 28.9 mpg, MT, Sunroof Delete, 3,432#, EB, Leather, Driving Assistance Package, Heated Front Seats | Sold: E12 530i, E24 M635CSi, E39 520i, E30 325is, E36 M3 (2)
TC Kline Coilovers; H&R Front Bar; Wavetrac; Al Subframe Bushings; 18X9/9½ ARC-8s; 255/35-18 PS4S (4); Dinan Elite V2 & CAI; MPerf Orange BBK; Schroth Quick Fit Pro;
GTechniq Crystal Serum Ultra Ceramic; Suntek PPF

Last edited by dradernh; 08-31-2020 at 03:34 PM..
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