[JLIT]

Originally Posted by x233

Your codes will be gone with the EDC delete unit regardless of where you place the redundant sensors but the car may handle funny if previously on the adaptive suspension (variable steering will be gone. well, it is already gone if you have the KW without the EDC delete unit. those are acceleration sensors. you may not be able to fit them on the shock body exactly like they were on the stock suspension. I tried but eventually fitted them on the inside of the car's body which of course wasn't the brightest idea - you'd turn the wheel and the car wouldn't quite follow like it should until you turned it almost all the way and then it would just snap (lots of understeer then snap oversteer - sucks on a slippery road, plain dangerous. that was the end of my experiments with a suspension not designed as a replacement for the adaptive suspension.)

PS: Could you elaborate why coding out didn't work for you?

It was tough to say why coding didn't work out. I was confused whether I had an issue with my EPS (due to a jack slipping and damaging one of the motor side brackets (three screws that attached the cast iron end brackets to the motor itself. My codes could sticking around due to that. I believe I damaged the belt on the servo as I get piercing sound of screeching when I turn the wheel hard left or right beyond a certain threshold. If I'm driving at even slow speeds the sound vanishes. I may need to replace the whole rack and pinion to know for sure or at least open up the EPS and see if anything looks screwed. As others had mentioned, the wiring instructions from KW showed different pins that were to plug into the EDC unit so I had to crack open the stock connector to use other connectors to lock into the adapter (which would in turn connect to the EDC sensor). Given the sound which I didn't know to be hardware at the time due to various mentions of the bombardment of chassis and increased steer codes that the computer would throw out without the EDC Delete Kit, I didn't even consider a hardware problem. It vary easily could've been coded out perhaps and my EPS damaged unit could be the culprit of some of those codes still lingering even after being cleared. Going to check the classifieds and ebay for a replacement rack and pinion. Paying 2k for a new one seems ridiculous. My car is CPO and I really don't want to void that warranty by bringing in a damaged eps that was caused by user error (I blame the foundation of my old garage, but the fact remains, the damage was done by me and wasn't a faulty component.