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      04-17-2014, 10:04 PM   #1
Delnari
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M Performance Steering Wheel Installed

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Was able to get some time tonight to finally install my new M Performance Steering Wheel (Non Electronic). About 1 to 1 1/2 hours total.

** Remove the negative battery terminal from the battery in the trunk before beginning the process; just as safe precaution and don't forget to pop your rear seat releases just in case you shut your trunk by mistake **

It helped to have the replacement wheel in front of me to see how to press on the airbag release clips to remove it. I used a long T-25 driver to push the clips in and a was little surprised the left side nearly popped out with very little pressure (as looking from rear to the front of the wheel). The right side took a little more pulling pressure but finally came out on the third attempt. Once you unclip the airbag (single clip) it simply can be moved out of the way. The second clip is for your steering wheel controls; the release is on top (not under) as looking straight at it. Just use a small precision flat blade screen driver (like the ones used on eye glass screws) and insert in between the clip and housing to release the raise notch and give a gently pull.

The part that is usually the easiest end up being a pain was the mounting bolt for the steering to the steering column. BMW uses what I believe must be a 16mm bolt head, not 15mm, not 17mm, but a damn 16mm which I don't have. So, I used a six sided 17mm socket and applied just enough pressure to break it loose without rounding it. Check to see if you have socket this size before starting the project. Once the bolt is out just make your wheel is centered as much as possible to get the new wheel back on in the center.

Removing the controls requires a total of 8 screws, one ground wire clip, and two shift paddle plugs in you have automatic (small blue connectors). The center trim has three screws, two in the center area of the wheel, and one on the lower back side; remove these first. When all three screws are removed you can pull the front of the trim off the steering wheel. Remove the paddle shifter screws next that are just to the left and right of center towards the controls on each side. Once the paddles are loose you can remove the screw for the left and right controls that are underneath where the paddle controls mount to the back of the wheel. Be careful with the paddle shifters as they will still be connected to the steering wheel and required a disconnect once you have the front controls unscrewed. What you have is four pieces all connected by wires but no longer mounted to the wheel. You can then begin pulling out the wires that are tuck tightly behind retaining clips. The 2 blue clips for the paddle shifters are wrapped with a little black plastic surround that is pushed down into a recess mount in the black plastic housing. Pulling from both ends of the wires attached to the opposite side of the blue clip upwards will release it up and out of the recess. You can unplug the end that goes to the paddle shifter control the same way as the other electrical connectors by inserting a small little blade to release the notch and pull out gently.

All the controls can now be moved away for the original steering wheel and rear black plastic mount for the steering be removed and placed onto the back of the new steering wheel. Start remounting your controls with the front left and right controls first. Mount your paddle shifters next and run the blue connector through the opening in the steering just as you did when you removed it. Plug your blue connectors in and push them back into their recess mounts. Screw in the one ground wire and clip the second one onto the fixed steering mount as before. Insert your wires back into the channels as best you can, but you probably won't get them as tuck as tight as they were from the factory wheel. Screw down the last 3 remaining screws for you new center face plate. Check the fit of the controls on you steering wheel look nice and tight then proceed to remounting your wheel back into the car. Check the little white tab from the rack mount is align with the hole in the the steering wheel this make getting the wheel back to center perfect. Reinsert your steering bolt and tighten down to same pressure (I used a little touch up paint to mark the spot before I removed the wheel to know when to stop). Plug your airbag back into the mounting clip and align and insert your airbag onto the wheel. Reconnect your battery in the trunk, and reset your time in the CIC. Check all your controls are are working normally and take it out for test drive.





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      04-17-2014, 10:09 PM   #2
JustinCredibleM
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Awesome! It looks really nice in the car.
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      04-18-2014, 12:04 AM   #3
scanepa
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Nice mod, great job...
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      04-18-2014, 12:11 AM   #4
DanG
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I like it.
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      04-18-2014, 12:18 AM   #5
Scotlac
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Nice work, looks fantastic!
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      04-18-2014, 12:29 AM   #6
Tim917
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Doesn't have the cool factor of the digital but at nearly half the price and for a DD this would be my choice. Those tach lights would get old in routine situations.

Awesome love it
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      04-18-2014, 01:40 AM   #7
M.barnes
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Tach lights haven't got old yet lol especially in auto as they don't start lighting until 80% of change level, ie 80% of 7000rpm.

Yours looks great though, really fits in!
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      04-18-2014, 02:48 AM   #8
Tim917
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ahh that's good to know - I was just imagining driving down the highway with led's glaring at me
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      04-18-2014, 06:28 AM   #9
Uponone76
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How does it feel compared to the stock wheel? Is it the same diameter and thickness?
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      04-18-2014, 09:41 AM   #10
Delnari
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Same big thick wheel we all come to love from BMW. It is soft and grips in the hand better then the leather bound wheel. Really think this feels better in the hands. Not ever going to track my car, but those who do the top red center mark is great for a steering center visual checking while driving on the track.
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