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      07-21-2016, 03:08 PM   #23
rwalker
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I've just undertaken this installation. It's a bit of a bear, access to this area is very, very tight on our cars.

Before you start, make sure you have everything. In particular verify that the new inlet has o-rings in the grooves on the turbo end of the pipe. Mine didn't have these, and I didn't realize these were missing until I had everything apart :-( .

Removal of stock inlet pipe:
  • put car on ramps, open hood, let cool
  • remove belly pan and steering rack cover (bunch of 8mm bolts)
  • from beneath: remove nut securing stock inlet pipe to turbo (10mm, I think... might have been 11mm, though)
  • from above: remove engine cover
  • disconnect crankcase ventilation hose from top of valve cover (gently pry 4 tabs up/out while gently pulling away from valve cover)
  • remove torx 25 screw holding crankcase vent tube to inlet pipe
  • gently work crankcase vent tube free from inlet move out of the way (on top of engine, leave connected to wiring harness)
  • loosen 10mm bolt that fastens inlet tube bracket to head
  • unclip airbox top
  • loosen hose clamp joining airbox pipe to inlet pipe
  • unclip MAF sensor
  • remove airbox top and pipe, place out of the way
  • pull stock inlet up and forward

Installation is the reverse of removal, except that you leave off the nut on the turbo, there's no mounting tab on the Pure pipe.

Gotchas:
  • The inlet tends to go downward when re-installing, which can cause it to snag on the stud that secures the stock inlet to the turbo. I found it best to slide the inlet partway in, then guide it the rest of the way into the turbo from underneath. Once lined up straight, go back up top to push the inlet the rest of the way into the turbo.
  • The screw clamp holding the aluminum part to the plastic on the Pure inlet sticks out a lot and can snag on the wiring harnesses and cooling hoses in the area. Be patient, and massage these in gently, pushing bits out of the way in sequence.
  • The inlet pipe fits very tightly inside the turbo inlet, a little oil on the o-rings helps here. Also, be sure the inlet is lined up straight before using any force to push into the turbo, the lip of the turbo inlet is sharp and will pinch/cut the inner o-ring if you're not careful at this phase. Because of this tight tolerance, I actually broke the Pure inlet pipe down into 2 parts for installation. This way, I could line up the aluminum bit into the turbo carefully (without the plastic interfering with alignment), then I worked the plastic piece onto the aluminum end from the top. This makes it necessary to tighten that hose clamp from underneath the car, which is extremely fiddly and tight. I managed to get an 11mm deep socket on it with a 3/8" ratchet, but I cursed the whole way.

Before and after:
I have an EWG car, so I can't use PWM directly to gauge whether the turbo is working less hard, but PWM is on average lower than before. Trap speeds on my daily romp are the same or better. I noticed no more or less turbo noise than before (I have the PPK airbox).

My Verdict:
Low on bang for buck, but good for checking every mod box short of upgrading turbos. Good for peace of mind .
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      07-21-2016, 05:59 PM   #24
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RW

Great write up.

Are the o rings Oem parts (# 2 gasket in the 1st post) or standard size items - if so what size did you use ?

BP
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      07-21-2016, 06:10 PM   #25
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the o-rings come with the new pipe; they were mistakenly left off mine, but Pure sent me a set to get me fixed up
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      07-22-2016, 05:12 AM   #26
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No O rings with mine either......
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      07-22-2016, 10:38 AM   #27
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just drop an email to Pure, they'll get you fixed up
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      07-22-2016, 02:56 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
just drop an email to Pure, they'll get you fixed up
Done and replied saying o rings en route. Fair play to Charles at Pure
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      07-22-2016, 04:12 PM   #29
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Noticeable gains?


I feel it breathes much better, air + fuel make hp!
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      07-24-2016, 02:22 PM   #30
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It's certainly helping me on the oem EWG turbo
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      07-24-2016, 07:39 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daleb View Post


It's certainly helping me on the oem EWG turbo
did u try to hit 20psi to see how it holds the boost after the inlet?
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      07-24-2016, 07:42 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daleb View Post


It's certainly helping me on the oem EWG turbo
Can you post a "before"?
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      07-25-2016, 03:50 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135iDCT View Post
did u try to hit 20psi to see how it holds the boost after the inlet?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
Can you post a "before"?
Hi guys,

I never tried to hit 20 psi prior to fitting the inlet, I Didn't have sufficient octane at that point. I had the inlet on around a month and a half prior to fitting TBI.

I don't have a before with this boost profile as mentioned above but looking at the data the turbo wouldn't of run these numbers further up the rpm range. Also the turbo didn't just run these numbers with the inlet fitted, I needed to do quite a few adjustments with the jb4 and its boost control using map 6.

If you look on the previous page a member has posted my graphs from another forum which shows the difference at the same boost levels albeit lower.
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      11-02-2016, 05:31 PM   #34
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Update

Plot below is prior mods v latest intake mods with stock EWG turbo and Shell v power fuel ~ 98 RON

Prior mods green lines from same dyno in 2015:-

Map 6 Jb4 ewg board + harness and FF wires
BCS sport cat DP
MPE
Oem air box with Afe dry drop in and afe airscoop

Latest mods red lines recently:-

As above but with intake mods as follows

Map 6 - minor fettling co BW Chiptune.
Dinan CAI with afe air scoop
Wagner evo 2 comp FMIC
ER boost pipes both sides of FMIC
Pure hi flo inlet pipe

Peak gains may look marginal but "area under the curve" is much improved.

Deltas more evident from mid range upwards and Jason @ BW Chiptune drove the car after he'd fettled it and was v complimentary about how smooth the car felt. This is evident as red line is smoother than green line across the full rev range.

I've yet to drive the car properly so too early to comment but what I've noticed initially is that Dinan CAI has more "voice" in a good way with Pure hi flo inlet pipe.....

Hats off to the guys at BW - great service and advice as usual.

BP
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      11-11-2016, 03:02 AM   #35
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Update # 2

Avg ign on 98RON pump fuel was mid to high 2s before and now it's consistently less than 1 with same pump fuel.



PWM is <40 so these 2 positive changes must be due to combo of new intake plumbing and BW map6 voodoo magic. Car was no slouch before, now it's stronger and intake sounds add more drama to the full bore experience !!

Happy chappy
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      01-11-2017, 02:38 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
I've read folks have seen drops in PWM whilst maintaining same boost levels on EWG cars with stock turbo.

There's definitely merit in opening up the inlet side even for stock EWG users.
Probably a stupid question, what is the benefit from a lower PWM maintaining the same boost?
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      01-11-2017, 03:21 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanWRT View Post
Probably a stupid question, what is the benefit from a lower PWM maintaining the same boost?
Lower PWM %age value means that Jb4 is intervening less to WG vacuum control to achieve desired boost.

Turbo is being made to work less to achieve desired boost output.
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      01-12-2017, 01:47 AM   #38
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1) From the comparison picture, only the aluminum section is actually smaller so it goes into stock pipe, though the opening that connects to compressor wheel is larger. Am I seeing it correct?

2) From the picture, it doesn't look to me like a solid piece, I am sure it feels different when handed on, but do you have concern on leakage? after all, it's two pieces preassembled.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
I've just undertaken this installation. It's a bit of a bear, access to this area is very, very tight on our cars.

Before you start, make sure you have everything. In particular verify that the new inlet has o-rings in the grooves on the turbo end of the pipe. Mine didn't have these, and I didn't realize these were missing until I had everything apart :-( .

Removal of stock inlet pipe:
  • put car on ramps, open hood, let cool
  • remove belly pan and steering rack cover (bunch of 8mm bolts)
  • from beneath: remove nut securing stock inlet pipe to turbo (10mm, I think... might have been 11mm, though)
  • from above: remove engine cover
  • disconnect crankcase ventilation hose from top of valve cover (gently pry 4 tabs up/out while gently pulling away from valve cover)
  • remove torx 25 screw holding crankcase vent tube to inlet pipe
  • gently work crankcase vent tube free from inlet move out of the way (on top of engine, leave connected to wiring harness)
  • loosen 10mm bolt that fastens inlet tube bracket to head
  • unclip airbox top
  • loosen hose clamp joining airbox pipe to inlet pipe
  • unclip MAF sensor
  • remove airbox top and pipe, place out of the way
  • pull stock inlet up and forward

Installation is the reverse of removal, except that you leave off the nut on the turbo, there's no mounting tab on the Pure pipe.

Gotchas:
  • The inlet tends to go downward when re-installing, which can cause it to snag on the stud that secures the stock inlet to the turbo. I found it best to slide the inlet partway in, then guide it the rest of the way into the turbo from underneath. Once lined up straight, go back up top to push the inlet the rest of the way into the turbo.
  • The screw clamp holding the aluminum part to the plastic on the Pure inlet sticks out a lot and can snag on the wiring harnesses and cooling hoses in the area. Be patient, and massage these in gently, pushing bits out of the way in sequence.
  • The inlet pipe fits very tightly inside the turbo inlet, a little oil on the o-rings helps here. Also, be sure the inlet is lined up straight before using any force to push into the turbo, the lip of the turbo inlet is sharp and will pinch/cut the inner o-ring if you're not careful at this phase. Because of this tight tolerance, I actually broke the Pure inlet pipe down into 2 parts for installation. This way, I could line up the aluminum bit into the turbo carefully (without the plastic interfering with alignment), then I worked the plastic piece onto the aluminum end from the top. This makes it necessary to tighten that hose clamp from underneath the car, which is extremely fiddly and tight. I managed to get an 11mm deep socket on it with a 3/8" ratchet, but I cursed the whole way.

Before and after:
I have an EWG car, so I can't use PWM directly to gauge whether the turbo is working less hard, but PWM is on average lower than before. Trap speeds on my daily romp are the same or better. I noticed no more or less turbo noise than before (I have the PPK airbox).

My Verdict:
Low on bang for buck, but good for checking every mod box short of upgrading turbos. Good for peace of mind .
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      01-12-2017, 08:56 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanWRT View Post
1) From the comparison picture, only the aluminum section is actually smaller so it goes into stock pipe, though the opening that connects to compressor wheel is larger. Am I seeing it correct?
Yep. The restriction that's being targeted is the end of the stock pipe, which kinda puckers at the end. The Pure pipe has no pucker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanWRT View Post
2) From the picture, it doesn't look to me like a solid piece, I am sure it feels different when handed on, but do you have concern on leakage? after all, it's two pieces preassembled.
I don't worry about leakage (your concern is unfiltered air, I guess). The 2 pieces are pretty securely clamped together.
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      01-12-2017, 09:56 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanWRT View Post
2) From the picture, it doesn't look to me like a solid piece, I am sure it feels different when handed on, but do you have concern on leakage? after all, it's two pieces preassembled.
I don't worry about leakage (your concern is unfiltered air, I guess). The 2 pieces are pretty securely clamped together.
Thanks for sharing.

And you're right, my concern is exactly if it's airtight enough to not let unfiltered air go into engine. By "securely clamped", did you mean it's just good enough?
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      01-12-2017, 12:18 PM   #41
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This may be a dumb question, but is there any reason to go for Pure's pipes vs ER's pipes? The ER piping is all Aluminum, whereas the Pure ones seem to re-use part of the stock pipe (i.e. require cutting). Wouldn't it make more sense to go all-Aluminum when you're swapping the stock turbo for something more serious?

Regardless, both seem like a really nice upgrade even on the stock EWG turbo. Tempting... tempting.....
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      01-12-2017, 12:23 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanWRT View Post
Thanks for sharing.

And you're right, my concern is exactly if it's airtight enough to not let unfiltered air go into engine. By "securely clamped", did you mean it's just good enough?
The Pure pipe has a lip and fits snugly into the stock plastic pipe. The clamp sits behind the lip. I feel confident that unfiltered air can't leak past the junction.
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      01-12-2017, 12:33 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjjkoevoets View Post
This may be a dumb question, but is there any reason to go for Pure's pipes vs ER's pipes? The ER piping is all Aluminum, whereas the Pure ones seem to re-use part of the stock pipe (i.e. require cutting). Wouldn't it make more sense to go all-Aluminum when you're swapping the stock turbo for something more serious?

Regardless, both seem like a really nice upgrade even on the stock EWG turbo. Tempting... tempting.....
Does ER offer an inlet pipe?
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      01-12-2017, 12:37 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
Does ER offer an inlet pipe?
http://evolutionracewerks.com/node/278

Isn't this what we're talking about? IC to Turbo piping?
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