[GrimJaw]

Just got new wheels and tires a few months ago. The tires are ultra high performance mich. As3. When my hands are on the wheel I can feel the slight slight vibration only when I'm going 80 or over consistently.

Wondering if it's in my head? Tire pressure is 1 below the norm on each tire. Is it the road/speed? Should I get it rebalanced? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Maynard]

Michelin AS3 is not 'Ultra High Performance', it is an all season; 80mph highway cruising isn't it's forte. The tread pattern may be the culprit, especially if you got runflats (not really designed for high speed use). A set of PS4's or Conti ExtremeContacts would be a noticeable improvement, I'd call it required if you spend much time at 80+.

Try inflating your tires to the recommended high speed pressures (should be in a section of yr manual). Next verify that you feel it on other stretches of road, preferably with different pavement style (asphalt/concrete). If it is still there then find a good tire/wheel place that uses a Hunter balance system to work them over - this system goes beyond simple weight-averaging style balance, and will be much more suitable for high speeds. Sometimes a wheel or tire is manufactured so far out of balance that you can't really correct it for those kinds of speeds. One tip off for this is if you have excessive weights stuck onto some wheels now. The Hunter should also be able to tell you if you have a wheel that is slightly off round too (even when 'in spec' you may notice minor out of round at those speeds).

[DistantTea]

Originally Posted by Maynard

Michelin AS3 is not 'Ultra High Performance', it is an all season; 80mph highway cruising isn't it's forte.

Well... Yes the Michelin Pilot Sports A/S3+ is an "Ultra High Performance All Season" tire. It's all those things. 80MPH is MOST DEFINITELY it's forte. These are autobahn tires so cruising at 120 is even it's forte... while it's raining...

As far as minor shaking or vibration it could be a minor wheel imbalance or a resonance issue. Road surfaces have a texture, that texture causes a tonal resonance due to how it transmits via the tires, that resonance turns things into a shake or vibration when it matches other parts of the car.

If it's bad enough that it interfers with your driving take it back and complain. If it's not the A/S3+s will smooth out after 1k miles (and then get noisy again after 10k miles).

[Sportstick]

Pilot Sport AS3+ are absolutely Ultra High Performance All Season tires, which is why Tire Rack refers to them as UHPAS tires! High speed cruising is a strength, which I learned personally when I had them on my car. Great tires. The first action I would agree with that Maynard mentioned is find a local shop with a Hunter Road Force balancing machine and let them assess each wheel/tire assembly for exact matching of wheel high point with tire low point and overall balance.

https://www.hunter.com/find-equipment/?

[chattanooga240]

A general rule with swapping parts is always if it was fine before and now you are noticing an issue, it is the parts you replaced.

There are any number of things it could be, but a noticeable shake or vibration should not be occurring, as others have said those are extremely high quality tires.

Yes it could be balance, tire pressure, slightly off round wheel etc.

[overcoil]

When I had the A/S3’ s never had any vibrations certainly not at 80 and at speeds a bit higher.


Vibration in:
Steering wheel front tires

Seat or floor rear tires

My bmw dealer has put on two sets of tires and maybe 3 individual tires and all the balancing was vibration free

Last time for the Michelin 4S they used a new kind of rubberized stick on weight.

Also check the simple stuff first. Just look and feel into the front wheel barrels and make sure no tar chunks are stuck on.

[GoldfishRT]

Check the balance. I also only have issue at above 85 with my DWS06. May just be slightly off.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Sportstick

...find a local shop with a Hunter Road Force balancing machine

I've watched while my local independent uses one of his pair of Hunter Road Force® Elite Wheel Balancer machines to balance different sets of my wheels and tires. It's an impressive piece of gear.

It doesn't just speed the mount and balance, but in the hands of a knowledgeable operator it will identify tires that need to be replaced due to internal manufacturing flaws (e.g., misaligned belts).

[Sportstick]

Originally Posted by dradernh

I've watched while my local independent uses one of his pair of Hunter Road Force® Elite Wheel Balancer machines to balance different sets of my wheels and tires. It's an impressive piece of gear.

It doesn't just speed the mount and balance, but in the hands of a knowledgeable operator it will identify tires that need to be replaced due to internal manufacturing flaws (e.g., misaligned belts).

The first time I encountered one of these many years ago, the tech explained the concept of matching wheel vs tire high and low points. Perhaps it helps to slide the tire around partway on the wheel. He said the goal was to offset each other as much as possible to achieve the best fit of tire on wheel to balance with the lease weight. His analogy never left my mind's eye. "Imagine a man with a large belly hugging a woman with a large chest."

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Sportstick

Perhaps it helps to slide the tire around partway on the wheel.

"Imagine a man with a large belly hugging a woman with a large chest."

It can. The machine will tell the operator if it determines that's necessary.

Interestingly, capable people can generate perfectly acceptable results from basic equipment. I used two race shops in the Northeast that produced excellent results for my race cars using old-style machinery.

That was when I first saw weights placed in the center of a wheel barrel; I'd only seen them at the barrel edges before that. One shop owner explained his process to me, and I realized he must have arrived at his technique after mounting and balancing thousands of tires. It was a "feel thing", and it worked for my race wheels and tires.

The owner of the other shop had been the tire guy for Danny Ongais back in the day. I quickly learned not to question whatever he was offering in the way of tire advice – a fellow like that has forgotten more than I'll ever know.

I don't know if there are any videos of Ongais out there, but the rate at which he could move up near the end of a race made him one of the more exciting drivers of his day. Like so many back then, wrecks finished his career for him.

Mind you, his day was one where there were no speed limits on pit lane, the driver safety equipment was ancient by today's standards, and the cars weren't nearly as developed as they are today. That makes a difference at 200 MPH. Back when men were men, and all that.

/OT

I'm going to skip how I would arrange the man and the woman to ensure perfect dynamic balance during the activity for which they were designed.

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by dradernh

It can. The machine will tell the operator if it determines that's necessary.

Interestingly, capable people can generate perfectly acceptable results from basic equipment. I used two race shops in the Northeast that produced excellent results for my race cars using old-style machinery.

That was when I first saw weights placed in the center of a wheel barrel; I'd only seen them at the barrel edges before that. One shop owner explained his process to me, and I realized he must have arrived at his technique after mounting and balancing thousands of tires. It was a "feel thing", and it worked for my race wheels and tires.

The owner of the other shop had been the tire guy for Danny Ongais back in the day. I quickly learned not to question whatever he was offering in the way of tire advice – a fellow like that has forgotten more than I'll ever know.

I don't know if there are any videos of Ongais out there, but the rate at which he could move up near the end of a race made him one of the more exciting drivers of his day. Like so many back then, wrecks finished his career for him.

Mind you, his day was one where there were no speed limits on pit lane, the driver safety equipment was ancient by today's standards, and the cars weren't nearly as developed as they are today. That makes a difference at 200 MPH. Back when men were men, and all that.

/OT

I'm going to skip how I would arrange the man and the woman to ensure perfect dynamic balance during the activity for which they were designed.

Danny Ongais did an amazing Road & Track (maybe Car and Driver) drive test of a Porsche silver 930 Turbo and I think it was against a turbo Kawasaki motorcycle. I'd seen the pictures of the article and it was art.

https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews...asaki-z1-r-tc/

[DaleHeinz]

I've gone through 2 sets of these on my 17' M240 and am now on my 3rd set. They are just about the best A/S tire you can get. Conti DWS 06 is the other. However, they have much more road noise than I was hoping for. I've gotten used to it, but my current set is at about 50% tread life and the noise and resonance is getting annoying. I may try the Conti's next.

[Unicorn123]

OP.

You indicate that you purchased new wheels as well.

All of the suggestions on balancing are spot on here. May I also suggest having the wheels checked as well for run-out and potential distortion? My two cents...

I have aftermarket rims and Conti DW HP tires (square setup) on mine (summer setup) and it is smooth well to triple digits; I was very cautious about my wheel selection since the factory rims have required straightening. Sending them out shortly for another repair prior to the winter (or perhaps just purchasing another set of wheels)...

[GrimJaw]

Hey sorry work just started up again in person haven't had time to check back. Thank you very one for the posts. I changed the oil spark plugs (unrelated), but also corrected the tire pressure. Still a shake though I'm noticing it at 75-80+ now I'm thinking it has to be a balance issue. Don't know where I wanna take the car to get the wheels rebalanced yet since I'm hemorrhaging money right now for this and that. I will post back when I take the car hopefully this solves my issue.

My setup is worrying. The wheels I purchased are 17x8s. I wanted forged apex wheels but was told the arc-8 wouldn't cover the brakes. Once I'm done with these wheels I will prob save them as a winter setup and hopefully find a trustable flow form or forged wheel in that size

[earthwateruser]

I've had a similar vibration right around 80 mph on my '15 228i base 17" wheel/tire combo (Continental runflats) since I bought the car a year or so ago. Vibration Starts about 75, gets annoying right at 80, and seems to smooth out again by 90. Too bad I can't just drive 90 all the time. ;-) I'm sure it's an out of balance rear tire since it doesn't shake the steering wheel (I HATE that). But I'm living w/ it since I probably shouldn't drive over 80 anyway (I must be getting old). I hesitate to get the tires re-balanced because past experience has taught me that the vibration will likely just get moved to another MPH range and the car is super smooth under 80 right now.
Too bad the dealer just put new tires on the car before I bought it last year.

I did contact a local shop that has a Hunter balancer. They quoted me over $200 (like $229 or something) to balance 4 tires on their fancy-pants machine. I laughed and laughed and finally replied "No thank you." I'll just keep it under 80.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by earthwateruser

I did contact a local shop that has a Hunter balancer. They quoted me over $200 (like $229 or something) to balance 4 tires on their fancy-pants machine. I laughed and laughed and finally replied "No thank you." I'll just keep it under 80.

Yeah, I would have laughed, too – last fall, I paid $131.45 for a Hunter RF balance of all four corners.

My experience has been that these prices tend to be all over the map, although higher where the cost of living is higher.

[GrimJaw]

So took the front tires off just to get a look. Everything seems to be in order I was curious about the dust/splash guard being an odd shape but I guess it's supposed to look
That way?

I popped the wheels back in locked them up and took a drive with my friend to see if he could feel the shake/vibration. I drove up to 100 a bunch of times and it was severely decreased/non existent. Did my bolts come loose at some point.... I have no idea. Going back to work Tuesday so I will test again.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by GrimJaw

So took the front tires off just to get a look. Everything seems to be in order I was curious about the dust/splash guard being an odd shape but I guess it's supposed to look
That way?

I popped the wheels back in locked them up and took a drive with my friend to see if he could feel the shake/vibration. I drove up to 100 a bunch of times and it was severely decreased/non existent. Did my bolts come loose at some point.... I have no idea. Going back to work Tuesday so I will test again.

I noted this from your previous posts:
"My setup is worrying. The wheels I purchased are 17x8s. I wanted forged apex wheels but was told the arc-8 wouldn't cover the brakes. Once I'm done with these wheels I will prob save them as a winter setup and hopefully find a trustable flow form or forged wheel in that size"

You show a 2015 M235i. If the above is not a typo, why are you running 17" wheels and tires? Not that that can't be done, but I am curious as to your reasons.

Also, are you running the OEM staggered wheel/tire setup with narrower tire size front and wider on rear?

You question about loose wheel bolts, the proper technique is to properly torque the wheel bolts per BMW's spec. You can so a semi tight bolt while the wheel/tire is up in the air, and then do the proper torque tightening once the wheel/tire is on the ground. Use a criss-cross pattern to tighten.
I set my torque about 5lbs lighter than my spec target, and then cross pattern to tighten all bolts. Then I set torque to spec and finish the cross pattern. Use a constant and even power on the torque wrench, do NOT "snap" power/leverage on the wrench as that can actually apply too much torque and unevenly as well. When you apply your arm force evenly and slowly listen for the first "click" of the torque wrench and then STOP, that's it. There is no need to go for a second click as too many often do, as that is an INCORRECT use of a torque wrench. Some apply another quick jerk application of arm force to get that second click, and that means that the actual torque on the nut or bolt is now likely over spec.
That's a long explanationf or something seemingly simple, but way too many get it wrong.

Wheel and tire vibrations can have various causes. Still, the most common are balance issues. Have the wheels/tires rebalanced. If that doesn't smooth things out, then have the tire tech remount the tires on the wheels by rotating the tire 180 degrees from where it was previously mounted, then rebalance. If that doesn't smooth things out, then start looking at the both the wheel itself checking for "runout" laterally, as well as vertically. Do the same for the tires.

Modern balancing machines are pretty good as balancing out the typical amounts of wheel and tire run out, out of round, issues. When the basics are tried and there is still an issue, then the wheels and tires have be checked closer in order to figure out which is the culprit. Yes, this can happen even with new wheels and tires. There could be a manufacturing defect with a wheel, and even with the a tire, sometimes there could be a defect with a number of wheels and tires in a row.

If you have the original wheels and tires, put those back on and see if there is no vibration at speed. If not, then you know the problem lies with the new wheels and/or tires. If the vibration is there with the previous wheels and tires, then you'll have to look deeper into what may be the cause. Drive shafts are balanced as well, and sometimes they need to be rebalanced, repaired, or replaced. Steering components wear, and if the wear goes beyond spec an odd vibration at certain speeds, frequencies, can set up. Suspension parts wear as well and they to can contribute or cause vibration.

One thing to note, generally, if you feel the vibration at speed in your seat/butt, and you notice that the empty passenger seat starts a vibration when you start to feel it at speed, that can indicate that the vibration is coming from the rear of the car. If you feel the vibration in the steering wheel, and/or the pedals or front floor, that indicates that the source is in the front.

Start with the simpler and basic causes of higher speed vibration, the wheels and tires, proper mounting and balancing. Hope that will get things sorted correctly.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by GrimJaw

Did my bolts come loose at some point.... I have no idea.

If they did, then either you would/should have noticed this when you removed them or someone tightened them in the interim.

I ran my car up over 80 MPH a few times today with 436 staggered wheels and new A/S 3+ tires. Pressures before leaving home were 35.6 F and 39.6 R. I had no perceptible vibration, either through the wheel or in the seat of my pants.

[alozcarney]

I've had the same shaking problem after changing the tires. Then I got the problem that it was happening for uneven tire wear and defects issue. At low speed wasn't any problem but over 60 mph showing their problems.
https://tireer.com/loose-steering-wheel/

[MarcoZandrini]

Originally Posted by GrimJaw

So took the front tires off just to get a look. Everything seems to be in order I was curious about the dust/splash guard being an odd shape but I guess it's supposed to look
That way?

I popped the wheels back in locked them up and took a drive with my friend to see if he could feel the shake/vibration. I drove up to 100 a bunch of times and it was severely decreased/non existent. Did my bolts come loose at some point.... I have no idea. Going back to work Tuesday so I will test again.

Perhaps the place that mounted your tires didn't properly torque the lug bolts. They need to be torqued to 105 ft-lbs. Over torquing can distort the wheel just a bit.

[Beamerboy303]

I know this is a very old post but I’m having this same issue. However I have not gotten new tires. Did you ever solve your issue?