[danimal]

Originally Posted by zkeeper

Above are both correct on wax from factory. The car is usually washed and maybe "spray-waxed" by dealer for quickest and cheapest delivery. It may shine when we pick them up, but it's not done to last.

Clay the car, and get 2-3 layers of paste on it before too much longer. As you are under the conditions you mentioned in SanD, you need the extra protection from bird acid & trees. Those can ruin top coat quickly. Carry at least some very soft old cotton cloth with a permanent small spray bottle in the boot, to remove such things even before heading home. Yes, the Speed Shine we have mentioned works great--but then so does a small spray bottle of water and just a drop or two of quality car wash added as a surfactant.

Personally, I just won't let that stuff sit on the paint over night. Not being anal at all...I just hate seeing a decent car finish ruined.

BTW--there is a difference in microfibers. Generally the auto stores are OK, but often shrink up at edges due to washing & are not as soft as better brands. BUT they usually beat old bath towels--especially the poly blends. BUT getting debris off the paint by any cloth is preferable to leaving those things on the paint.

Thanks again for your advice!

Here is what I've done or am planning to do:

I took my car in today to be detailed. This a "works" detailing, so clay bar, wash, polish, wax, full interior, etc. Since I'm a regular customer and my car is so new, the guy gave me a nice discount. So, this will give me that nice protective layer of wax.

As for washing my car, I've decided to stick with the Spot Free Rinse self car wash. I like the "two bucket" idea, but I remembered another reason I stopped washing my car at home--there is no shade. At certain times of year, there may be a small window of time in the late afternoon/early evening, but it's too easy to miss it. The bottom line is that, if I continue to use the self car wash, I'll actually wash my car a lot more often than if I try to do it at home.

That said, I can still do spot cleaning in my garage. I do have a California car duster, which has a cover, but I've never washed or vacuumed it. I'd be curious to know how I would go about washing it (vacuuming I get ). I also have a spray bottle filled with distilled water, a bottle of Griots Speed Shine, and the highest end microfiber towels I could find at my local Pep Boys (they may not be Griots quality, but they are noticeably softer than what I used to have). I also picked up some Sprayway glass cleaner, and I'm planning to pick up some spray on wax (either Griots or Protect All).

I should note that I'm going to continue to play it very safe with the different options at the car wash. I plan to use just the wheel/tire cleaner, low-pressure pre-wash, and low-pressure spot-free (deionized) rinse. After I leave the car wash, I'll go for a quick blast on the freeway to get most of the water off it, then finish off any remaining water drips with a microfiber towel. After that, I'll try to get at least the major horizontal surfaces (if not the whole exterior) with the spray wax. This way not be ideal, but it's efficient, and I will actually do it.

[bernstem]

I opti-coated my car as soon as I got it home from the performance center after a quick final polish with a DA. There were a few areas of fine scratching that needed a light polish first. If you really like washing and waxing your car, opti-coat isn't for you as it is a permanent coating and waxes/sealants won't stick to it, but you won't need to wax/seal the car for a good 5+ years. If you do opti-coat and want a bit more shine, the optimum poly-seal will adhere for a few weeks. Most other products won't even last through one rainfall. Opti-coat looks good, but isn't quite as shiny as some of the better sealants and not quite as deep as some of the better waxes. Most people probably can't tell the difference.

Nothing will protect the paint from bird droppings, heavy tree sap or hard water that is left to sit on the finish. They will etch through just about any coating (including opti-coat and CQuartz) and into the clear coat. Don't let bird droppings or hose/sprinkler water sit on the car or you may need to polish to remove the marring. Some bird droppings, if left, can leave etching too deep to safely polish out so especially don't let them sit.

I used to use a self serve car wash before I bought a house. I never used the brushes, but would use the sprayer, my own car wash soap, bucket and micro-fiber towels to wash and dry with. Basically, I was using the car wash for the water.

[zkeeper]

Denimal, you have right idea. Good steps that will work for you.
Bernstem is correct fully also on droppings. Just check each day, especially if parking under trees and remove any spots. It's as simple as washing plates and forks after dinner. Let it all sit?? and well you have a chore.

You asked about cleaning the duster. Yup, vacuuming is a no brainer. But, when I sense I don't like the "dirty level", I carefully remove the duster. [I have California and Griots...like the Griots a little better on this] with a screw driver to pry off fabric starting at rear near handle. Then spray fabric with a microfiber cleaner, let soak a bit and wash, then air dry. Keeps from shrinking by using a clothes dryer.

Getting it back ON is the woeful task. Note Cali Dusters use a waxy film that does attract the dirt, but some feel it leaves a residue. The Griot's is a high quality microfiber, and I like that now. Pure person choice like pizza.

Tip: I actually cut off about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of the two rear pronged areas, and it then "prys" back on easier. I used an heavy duty cutting pliers. You can't do it with normal scissors or box cutter.

Did cause duster too be loose after cutting the pronged pieces. Just makes things easier to get off and wash maintain.

Key thing is keeping it dusted here in the heat keeps the daily dust from settling into the wax as it cools at night. Keeps paint nice and smooth for a weekend shot of a Spray on shine or your choice of poison, as it were. Hope this helps you.

[danimal]

Originally Posted by zkeeper

Denimal, you have right idea. Good steps that will work for you.
Bernstem is correct fully also on droppings. Just check each day, especially if parking under trees and remove any spots. It's as simple as washing plates and forks after dinner. Let it all sit?? and well you have a chore.

I haven't been perfect, but I've been pretty good about keeping after the little daily things that land on my car. One thing I've been meaning to ask: assuming I've gotten to the point of spraying and dislodging whatever is stuck to the surface, how do I actually lift is away? This seems to be the most time consuming part of the whole process. I try to get it to stick to the cloth, but this rarely works. Is there some kind of tape that is just sticky enough to trap the offending debris without stripping away wax or otherwise damaging the surface? Thanks.

[zkeeper]

Not sure why the debris is so hard for you to trap. Just today I found 4 little very hard brown spots, tiny like bird doo but tiny--almost like dried mud spots, but its air debris from something.

I just sprayed them to soak a bit, went and got an older microfiber I don't mind using, and gently wiped it away. It took a few swipes and one took some extra speed shine/water solution , but it all came right off. Same with the white bird doo. Even when dried for some hours.

Just saw a black X5 with a younger driver. Car had many of the white splats on it--probably has to park under trees at home or work. BUT they had been on there for awhile as car was also quite dirt laden. I thot, well, without being too quick to judge, I would not wish to see the paint surface with the etching that was going on. Maybe some folks ought not buy decent cars--he would not leave his Rolex to have all that happen. Just musing here.....

Never heard of anyone using tape...or some such. I would avoid that personally. If it lifts the debris, it will lift the wax. You won't hurt the surface by wetting it , waiting a bit, and wiping it off. It's still your best bet.

[danimal]

Originally Posted by zkeeper

Not sure why the debris is so hard for you to trap. Just today I found 4 little very hard brown spots, tiny like bird doo but tiny--almost like dried mud spots, but its air debris from something.

I just sprayed them to soak a bit, went and got an older microfiber I don't mind using, and gently wiped it away. It took a few swipes and one took some extra speed shine/water solution , but it all came right off. Same with the white bird doo. Even when dried for some hours.

Just saw a black X5 with a younger driver. Car had many of the white splats on it--probably has to park under trees at home or work. BUT they had been on there for awhile as car was also quite dirt laden. I thot, well, without being too quick to judge, I would not wish to see the paint surface with the etching that was going on. Maybe some folks ought not buy decent cars--he would not leave his Rolex to have all that happen. Just musing here.....

Never heard of anyone using tape...or some such. I would avoid that personally. If it lifts the debris, it will lift the wax. You won't hurt the surface by wetting it , waiting a bit, and wiping it off. It's still your best bet.

By far the biggest problem I have is these little dark yellow dots or short lines, which I believe are deposited by bees. They don't seem to dissolve. I basically just walk around the car spraying them all, then I gently dislodge them with my fingernail. Once they are dislodged, I can easily slide them around on the wet/lubricated area around them, but they really don't want to lift off the surface. I can sometimes get them if I take my microfiber cloth and squeeze my finger and thumb together, but usually I end up resorting to pressing the cloth or even my finger on them until they stick. Whatever I try, it rarely works on the first try. Lately, I've been getting maybe 5-10 of these per day. Bird splatters are much less common this time of year (maybe a couple per week).

[bmxcamel]

Optimum no-rinse wash is another nice solution for car parks where a hose is not available.

[hoppy6698]

Originally Posted by danimal

By far the biggest problem I have is these little dark yellow dots or short lines, which I believe are deposited by bees. They don't seem to dissolve. I basically just walk around the car spraying them all, then I gently dislodge them with my fingernail. Once they are dislodged, I can easily slide them around on the wet/lubricated area around them, but they really don't want to lift off the surface. I can sometimes get them if I take my microfiber cloth and squeeze my finger and thumb together, but usually I end up resorting to pressing the cloth or even my finger on them until they stick. Whatever I try, it rarely works on the first try. Lately, I've been getting maybe 5-10 of these per day. Bird splatters are much less common this time of year (maybe a couple per week).

What did you use as a final step / sealant? The quality of your sealant will determine how easily sticky stuff can come up as well.

For me - Collinite 845. Great stuff, slick on, slick off and durable for 6 mod or better if maintained with weekly washings.

My product deck for detailing:
Collinite 845 (sealant)
Petes 53 (Chemical Guys) wax (for depth)
Citrus Wash Gloss (CG cleaning wash)
Glossworkz (CG soft wash for waxes)
Synthetic Quick Detailer (Chemical Guys slick prep)
Hybrid V7 (CG coat over sealant / wax - great for beading)
Sonax Full Effect (for wheels - INCREDIBLE stuff)
1Z Einszett Cockpit and Deep Cleaner (great German cleaners for interiors - keeps European vehicles good as new!)
1Z Einszett Leather Care (same, great for adding UV protection and conditioning)

Also, proper preparation of the surface will really help maintenance. If you don't have a DA polisher, may want to find a friend with one. After claying, a good final prep of the surface will ensure a slick feeling for months.

Opticoat and CQuartz are great options if you don't do a lot of detailing too. I got the wife's Q5 done with CQuartz and it is super slick after 3 months of rain.

Zkeeper had a lot of good advice too. Keep a small bottle of a surface prep (slick) to lift droppings and other nasties. But your cloth matters too - MF is always best, but not all MF are equal. Invest in some good ones from Chemical Guys, Griots, or Detailer Domain. Buy a big batch, they last a good while - and don't wash them with towels, MF has to be washed separately to keep their fuzziness / static cling.

Hope this helps.

[Jasond13]

first I sealed mine with 2 coats of Mequiars synthetic tech wax 2.0. Then right after don't wait hit it with 2 coats of Wolfgang fusion carnauba wax. It really came out nice it looks like its wet. In between washes hit it mothers showtime spray wax and it will last for months. I will post some pics later.

[caycep]

dear lord this is complex.

[zipphreak]

if you haven't realized detailing a car is an owner specific thing. We all have different amounts of free time, patience, and amount of chemicals we want to use.

I enjoy the mother's California gold 3 step system with a high quality sealant. Everything applied with a dual action polisher.

1. Wash
2. Mothers Polish
3. Mothers Glaze
4. Mothers Carnuaba Wax
5. Wolfgang Deep Gloss 3.0 Sealant

[caycep]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

if you haven't realized detailing a car is an owner specific thing. We all have different amounts of free time, patience, and amount of chemicals we want to use.

I enjoy the mother's California gold 3 step system with a high quality sealant. Everything applied with a dual action polisher.

1. Wash
2. Mothers Polish
3. Mothers Glaze
4. Mothers Carnuaba Wax
5. Wolfgang Deep Gloss 3.0 Sealant

Yeah, I figured lol. Wish someone had a sticky or FAQ for "Mininum reasonable routine that won't drive you nuts". I am in an apartment so no hose or space to do this. Also not a lot of free time so if there is someone good (in Pasadena/SoCal) that isn't expensive, I'd rather have them do it, esp if they know what they are doing as opposed to myself who most certainly does not.

As far as I could gather from The Internets:

1) Washing - either yourself w/ the 2 bucket system, Sonax or P21S soaps, then maybe a waxy/clearcoaty thingamabob.

2) The Matt Farah video says to use bug/grease removing sprays before washing, there may be other sprays

3) Some detailing shops offer a reasonable wash. There is a luxurious place with fruit platters or something in Agoura Hills

4) Detail 1-2x/year.


For my Highlander, it was pretty much "take it to the car wash every cpl months or so"....of course it's got some battle scars lol

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

if you haven't realized detailing a car is an owner specific thing. We all have different amounts of free time, patience, and amount of chemicals we want to use.

I enjoy the mother's California gold 3 step system with a high quality sealant. Everything applied with a dual action polisher.

1. Wash
2. Mothers Polish
3. Mothers Glaze
4. Mothers Carnuaba Wax
5. Wolfgang Deep Gloss 3.0 Sealant

You shouldn't put sealant on top of wax. Wax goes on top of sealant

[zipphreak]

I shouldn't but i did and it looks good!

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by ocN55

You shouldn't put sealant on top of wax. Wax goes on top of sealant

Ya kind of useless as the sealant won't stick on wax and probably go away after a few weeks

But if you have time to reapply then who cares

[zipphreak]

Lol I'm in the learning phase, have to try things to get better.. Still new to the whole detailing scene. But next time I will reverse my order now that I read about it more. Mmmm polymers