[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by misguided_will

hi all

i have a 435i with the n55 and my Ultimate has 3 connectors.

Is the 435i different?

Having major issues connecting to what i think is for the boost. the connector is at the front centre of the engine.

ideas and advice?

As far as I know the 435 and 235 should be the same 2 connections as it's the same engine. If standing in front of your car and facing it, the MAP sensor will be all the way past the engine just slightly right of center under a rubber grommet of sorts, the other sensor is the TMAP and that is located just past the air intake and down on the right side of the engine.

The only other plug would be where you plug in the RaceChip itself. If you have 3 plugs and the one for the unit, you must have a diesel or some wrong device. Page 1 of this thread shows the install of JB stage 1 which is identical in terms of which sensors you are installing.

[misguided_will]

Thanks!

I received the attached pic from Racechip support showing 3 connection points.

Connection C is the odd one out and I'm wondering if i should just connect A and B and see what happens?

Any idea what connection C is? My guess was boost but i'm not mechanical at all.

[moldcad]

Originally Posted by kdog26372

As far as I know the 435 and 235 should be the same 2 connections as it's the same engine. If standing in front of your car and facing it, the MAP sensor will be all the way past the engine just slightly right of center under a rubber grommet of sorts, the other sensor is the TMAP and that is located just past the air intake and down on the right side of the engine.

The only other plug would be where you plug in the RaceChip itself. If you have 3 plugs and the one for the unit, you must have a diesel or some wrong device. Page 1 of this thread shows the install of JB stage 1 which is identical in terms of which sensors you are installing.

I'm also sure that - providing RC hasn't changed their design lately, the right box for petrol engine only comes with 2 connectors (for MAP and TMAP sensors). Such was the original box I used with my 528xi 2 years ago, and it's the same with the one I upgrade my N20 version for the N55 one lately.

There are plenty of piggy boxes out there with the thrird connector attaching to the CAM sensor for sensing the rpm (I used to test one of them, namely from Speedbuster) - but found out the rpm sensor, while theoretically beneficial, moves the boost increase to higher rpm range from where it's most beneficial for the perceived performance gain (and this of course is the low rpm range) - therefore the perceived gains were much lower. The RaceChip with just two sensors/connection - while technically the most base one - in reality is giving you the most gains as perceived by your butt dyno

That said, the Speedbuster (and probably all three-connector boxes that have the ability of sensing the rpm, and adjust boost accordingly) definitely was giving a slightly higher gains at the very top of rpm range and around the car's maximum speed; in fact it noticeably increased performance around the top speed of my N20 528xi while the Racechip box didn't. But then, the car hit the max speed limiter anyway - so the advantages of Speedbuster got wasted; having compared the two I decided the gains in low rpm was much more beneficial in real-life application (like accelerating from low rpm without a need for downshifting; it was particularly noticeable in the somewhat under-powered 528xi)....

Piotr

[misguided_will]

Thanks. Sounds like I might've been sent the wrong harness and inconsistent instructions. will get back in touch with them and see how I go....doh!

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by misguided_will

Thanks!

I received the attached pic from Racechip support showing 3 connection points.

Connection C is the odd one out and I'm wondering if i should just connect A and B and see what happens?

Any idea what connection C is? My guess was boost but i'm not mechanical at all.

C = Camshaft sensor at the front of the engine, fiddly to install.

[kdog26372]

As others have stated, unless RC has changed their design for the N55, you have the wrong connector and probably wrong box. They have crappy customer service historically, so hopefully you get somewhere on this quickly.

[misguided_will]

ah cool. Thanks guys.

Heard back from RaceChip and apparently there are 3 connectors required for the Bluetooth version.

very fiddly. there are horizontal metal pipe which block access so will see if removing the air intake.

any other suggestions how to access it?

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

C = Camshaft sensor at the front of the engine, fiddly to install.

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by misguided_will

ah cool. Thanks guys.

Heard back from RaceChip and apparently there are 3 connectors required for the Bluetooth version.

very fiddly. there are horizontal metal pipe which block access so will see if removing the air intake.

any other suggestions how to access it?

If you are indeed plugging into the camshaft sensor, then yes you need to disconnect that intake tube along with the 4 clips holding the top of the airbox on.

You need a long, thin flathead screwdriver which you'll use with your right hand and come from the bottom, your left hand hopefully isn't a gorilla hand as you need to use it to pull down on that small connector while you gently turn slightly clockwise the screwdriver which should already be wedged on the right hand side of the connector from the bottom. Eyeglass screwdriver with flat head works great. Once you've done it once it's easy, the first is tough because you don't know how it comes out.

I still was not aware of any other RC owner with an N55 that uses the camshaft sensor, but I also didn't know about the bluetooth bit either nor do I know what the bluetooth function would have anything to do with the camshaft sensor as all it shows on the RC website is the fact that it allows switching the tune from eco, sport and race; maybe it changes the RPM range for which it functions to maximize gas mileage or maximize performance.

You'd think RC would have better instructions, tell you what sensors you are plugging into and also market it's new bluetooth product better. I'd have no clue on the website what changes as the power #'s quotes for the non bluetooth is identical to the bluetooth and no mention of extra wires. They have a decent product, but lack common sense with marketing and instructions.

[FSociety]

kdog26372 Bluetooth is new of this year and mostly everyone outside of USA gets it.

Maybe you not seeing the updates on Racechip-USA, but its def on Racechip.com (Official Site) I know my friend with a Macan told me another USA dealer for RaceChip Germany he bought his racechip from was in the talk about the bluetooth version.

[tencazzo]

Originally Posted by moldcad

I'm also sure that - providing RC hasn't changed their design lately, the right box for petrol engine only comes with 2 connectors (for MAP and TMAP sensors). Such was the original box I used with my 528xi 2 years ago, and it's the same with the one I upgrade my N20 version for the N55 one lately.

There are plenty of piggy boxes out there with the thrird connector attaching to the CAM sensor for sensing the rpm (I used to test one of them, namely from Speedbuster) - but found out the rpm sensor, while theoretically beneficial, moves the boost increase to higher rpm range from where it's most beneficial for the perceived performance gain (and this of course is the low rpm range) - therefore the perceived gains were much lower. The RaceChip with just two sensors/connection - while technically the most base one - in reality is giving you the most gains as perceived by your butt dyno

That said, the Speedbuster (and probably all three-connector boxes that have the ability of sensing the rpm, and adjust boost accordingly) definitely was giving a slightly higher gains at the very top of rpm range and around the car's maximum speed; in fact it noticeably increased performance around the top speed of my N20 528xi while the Racechip box didn't. But then, the car hit the max speed limiter anyway - so the advantages of Speedbuster got wasted; having compared the two I decided the gains in low rpm was much more beneficial in real-life application (like accelerating from low rpm without a need for downshifting; it was particularly noticeable in the somewhat under-powered 528xi)....

Piotr

That is very helpful post, since I am choosing between DTE Systems 3 channel box, BMS Stage 1 and JB4. The only thing is, I thought that being able to control boost over RMP is in fact an advantage by those 3 channel boxes, because you can tell the guys to program this range (for low RMP for instance) before you install the box. JB4 can do it via CAN Bus and 3 channel box via camshaft sensor, BMS Stage 1 cant do it at all.

[tencazzo]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

C = Camshaft sensor at the front of the engine, fiddly to install.

C is definitely camshaft sensor.

[misguided_will]

hi all...

many thanks all and kdog for the tips on switching over the camsensor plug.
i ended up using curved long nose pliers with tape on the tips to protect the plug, and yanking it down hard as i couldn't get to the locking notch.

i freaked out initially as it SEEMED asthough the motor was ticking very loudly after installing.

results? i only went for a quick spin in RACE mode and was quite pleased with the results. definitely a lot quicker but doubt it produces the claimed increase. then again, i think i might be expecting a little took much having previously had a M Roadster in the family which was an absolutely thrill.

anyway i'm pretty pleased with the Racechip all the same though. was unable to find a good cool spot to place the racechip so just have it sitting on a plastic cover on the RHS.

thanks again all

[moldcad]

Well, I also only today installed my (software upgraded for N55, but otherwise old model) Ultimate box in my M235i - and went for a short ride afterwards. I must admit my very first impressions after I first installed it in my N20 F10 528xi, and my feeling of new life (especially in low rpm) was definitely more positive..

I only hope I installed it properly - the harness has no description/markings whatsoever, so I just assumed either way of the two possible is OK and plugged one bypass into the MAP, and the other - into the TMAP sensor (just those shown in the pics here):

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showp...75&postcount=4

Well, perhaps it needs some time to feel stronger?

Piotr

[misguided_will]

Yep you've installed correctly it seems.
Only difference I have is plug C which was the mysterious camshaft sensor plug

Glad you're enjoying your RaceChip too

Originally Posted by moldcad

Well, I also only today installed my (software upgraded for N55, but otherwise old model) Ultimate box in my M235i - and went for a short ride afterwards. I must admit my very first impressions after I first installed it in my N20 F10 528xi, my feeling of new life (especially in low rpm) was definitely more positive..

I only hope I installed it properly - the harness has no description/markings whatsoever, so I just assumed either way of the two possible is OK and plugged one bypass into the MAP, and the other - into the MAP sensor (just those shown in the pics here):

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showp...75&postcount=4

Well, perhaps it needs some time to feel stronger?

Piotr

[moldcad]

To all those using the Racechip Ultimate, and monitoring their performance using Torque Pro or (preferably) DashCommand apps:

How about building sort of our common database, so that we could refer to one another's numbers and not have to use independent dynos (which can be as deceiving as our butt ones)? The numbers it would require would be few and only those objective ones, i.e. coming from PIDs rather than calculated values etc.

So here is what each of us should provide:

1. Just for the record, year and month of their M235i build, and whether any other add-ons are used (like after-market air filters etc.)

2. Model and Setting of their RaceChip (like Ultimate bought in aAugust 2015, setting E)

3. Octane number of the petrol used

4. several objective numbers reported by DashCommand or Torque Pro during our tests (best if all of us use the same unit system - I vote for the metric one :

a. Ambient air temperature
b. Ambient air pressure
c. maximum boost pressure

Of course they may be other readings reported (like engine torque I saw today exceeded 600 Nm), but since those are calculated, and depend on many variables they are no good for any real comparo.

What do you think guys?

Piotr

[moldcad]

On another note:

I saw some posts of those looking for the best place to put their RaceChip boxes so that they are not easily noticeable, and safe from elements... But after I myself connected the 2 sensors, I found it surprisingly easy to just put the box under the plastic cover on passenger side (right vehicle side), directly below the windshield... It did require that the cable from TMAP sensor be (partly) put under the engine cover - otherwise it would be too short. But now when I think of it - since many people seemingly didn't manage to do the same - I wonder whether it's too hot in there? I decided to do so quite consciously, as I saw other cables in their protective sleeves being routed there by the factory... What do you guys think?

Piotr

[simoneves]

That's where AA8's go. They even come with a bracket which allows it to be mounted with an existing bolt. I can't imagine it would be any hotter than in the engine bay, quite the opposite. It's just a question of whether the cables are long enough. You'd route them through the break in the rubber seal.

[misguided_will]

good proposal
can you recommend a good ELM or are they all the same?
yet to purchase one.

[misguided_will]

re the mounting location, i've velcro'ed mine on the plastic cover on the RHS of "A" in the photo i uploaded away from any heat.

[moldcad]

Originally Posted by simoneves

That's where AA8's go. They even come with a bracket which allows it to be mounted with an existing bolt. I can't imagine it would be any hotter than in the engine bay, quite the opposite. It's just a question of whether the cables are long enough. You'd route them through the break in the rubber seal.

I think you misunderstood my question and concern about heat; I don't the temperature in the compartment I put my box in (it's actually quite cool), but the temperature between the engine head and the (plastic) engine cover, where my Racechip harness (actually, only one cable and just a short part of it) is placed.... I can imagine it must be very hot in there, and am concerned about the cable safety (or even a fire hazard, should the cable melt)? IS my concern unnecessary? As I said, there is another cable put there by the factory, which made me decided my Racechip cable could too - but now I feel uneasy about it...

Piotr

[moldcad]

Originally Posted by misguided_will

good proposal
can you recommend a good ELM or are they all the same?
yet to purchase one.

As to EML dongle, I decide to buy one of the cheaper ones from Amazon, assuming it's cheap enough to try ans - should it not work properly - return it and buy some expensive one. I never had to, as it proved to work flawlessly (though by 'flawlessly" I only mean that it connects to my Phone each time, and does read anything I configure for display; I reckon that should I have a larger screen like with a tablet, allowing for many more PIDs being monitored at the same time - its peed limit could come into play; should it become too slow I always have the option of replacing it with a faster one as it was so cheap)...

And as to my idea, I now have some doubts about it... For just the Boost values to be enough for comparing our gains with the RaceChip various settings, we would first have to make sure the OBD II PID is at all affected by the Racechip presence - it will as well read the Boost values "cheated" by the Racechip to the engine ECU, so actually only display the numbers in psi that ECU *thinks* are the Boost values. Should this be the case, Dashcommand would not reflect the presence of Racechip at all... And frankly, after my first tests I suspects it actually is so, as my Boost values are not much higher than those monitored by DashCommand *without* the Racechip (maximum always around some 10 psi)... So the all important question for you guys is now:

- using any type of ODB scanner/monitoring app, are you seeing Boost values actually higher than without the Racechip? IF so, what are your Boost values with and without Racechip?

Before we start feeding numbers for our reference "database", the above question must be sorted first!

Piotr

[EBM235]

My boost went from about 10 to 11 w/o and have seen as high as 14 with (C is the highest level I have set it to as on 91 octane)