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2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics N55 (M235i) Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Tuning So whats the most reliable bhp for M235's N55?

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      11-14-2016, 06:56 AM   #1
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So whats the most reliable bhp for M235's N55?

I know some stage I perform amazing data like ess can do a 390bhp on S1, however some post says that N55B30O0 can only hold 360bhp reliable and most reput tunner in german only provide 360 to N55B30O0.

So, I am planning to tune my car to have more HP, considering to get a stage 1+catless or jb4. Really wondering some S1 may be harmful to engine.

BTW, the steel crankshaft in M235 (difference to normal 35i) may help on more hp or more lifetime?

Thanks
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      11-14-2016, 10:39 AM   #2
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Most reliable is stock power.
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      11-14-2016, 01:39 PM   #3
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Based on stock Dynojet numbers, on average the 8AT M235 RWD puts down about 300whp and 320wtq. The 6MTs fractionally more due to a slightly more efficient drivetrain. Assuming a 18% drivetrain loss for the RWD 8AT, the N55 in the M235 makes around 350-360hp and 370-380tq at the flywheel. A JB1 or JP4 Stage 1 tune will add about 25-30whp and 30-40wtq (~390hp/425tq flywheel).

The engine block in the N54 and N55 are very similar and are essentially open deck. The N55 in M2 is the closed deck S55 block from the M3/M4. Closed deck blocks are stronger though are harder to keep cool. With that said, failure of engine blocks, crankshafts, pistons, connecting rods, and bearings in stock and modded N54/N55 is pretty rare. There are occasional failures but almost all are in cars pushing significantly more power than stock or stock cars with low mileage and a manufacturing defect. My point though, the open deck rotating assembly in the M235 N55 doesn't seem to be much a reliability hindrance.

The N55 in the M2 is basically a Stage 1 tuned M235 N55. There have been reports of the M2 suffering from heat soak issues when run hard for extended periods or back to back dyno runs. This brings me to my main point. More power = more heat in the N55. Be prepared for it if you add more power to these turbo motors. The motor will very likely be fine with a standard Stage 1 tune and DP; however, if you track the car, you should probably consider an upgraded (not huge though) intercooler at the least. Definitely run the highest octane available as well. On really hot days, refrain from pushing the car really hard.

Heat can lead to detonation events which can lead to hammering of the rod bearings, broken pistons, and/or wrecked connecting rods. The DME (ECU) in these cars is pretty smart and quick to react; however, if you add an aggressive tune and/or numerous modifications, you start to venture further and further away from the DME's ability to keep the motor together.

I'd suggest not going beyond a standard tune and DP if reliability is a major concern to you. If you want even more power, consider buying a more powerful stock car. It's far cheaper that way.
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      11-15-2016, 09:32 PM   #4
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I didn't know the 235i and m2 n55s have different block design. Good to know!
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      11-16-2016, 01:27 AM   #5
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From all I know the Block of M2 and M235i is the same.
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      11-17-2016, 05:49 AM   #6
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ive been running my 380bhp map for a the year. My last 330d e92 ran a 295 bhp map from 50 thousand miles upto 160 thousand miles driven hard never had one issue with turbo or anything, and never dropped below 37mpg. Always use good oil, leave car few seconds before switch off, never drive hard from cold etc etc.
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      11-17-2016, 08:04 AM   #7
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Driving it in Sport/Sport+ mode also should provide consistent reliable hp. It keeps the engine cooler at all times.
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      11-19-2016, 12:55 AM   #8
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Most reliable is stock power.
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      11-19-2016, 04:04 PM   #9
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Can anyone confirm:

- Forged Crankshaft?
- Forged Rods?
- Forged Pistons?
- Open or Closed Deck? (have hear 50/50 split all over the place, no one seems to have concrete answers)
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      11-19-2016, 04:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan86 View Post
Can anyone confirm:

- Forged Crankshaft?
- Forged Rods?
- Forged Pistons?
- Open or Closed Deck? (have hear 50/50 split all over the place, no one seems to have concrete answers)
I am wondering same.

Piston not forged. Open deck.
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      11-19-2016, 04:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukeapenguin View Post
I am wondering same.

Piston not forged. Open deck.
Have "heard" the N55 in these cars got a few forged goodies (more so than the 335/435 sisters), on top of a closed deck design. Something limited to the '14+ productions ? It's not a big deal to me, but would be nice if someone could enlighten us and provide some insight to a legitimate first world concern..
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      11-19-2016, 04:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan86 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dukeapenguin View Post
I am wondering same.

Piston not forged. Open deck.
Have "heard" the N55 in these cars got a few forged goodies (more so than the 335/435 sisters), on top of a closed deck design. Something limited to the '14+ productions ? It's not a big deal to me, but would be nice if someone could enlighten us and provide some insight to a legitimate first world concern..
DO you check ETK to see they have same part number or not?

I check news, on m235i only said steel crankshaft
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      11-19-2016, 04:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukeapenguin View Post
DO you check ETK to see they have same part number or not?

I check news, on m235i only said steel crankshaft
Can I access ETK drawings somewhere? I know of the VAG ETKA sites, but haven't gone to those lengths to verify part numbers, no.

For a 300+ hp turbo engine I'd be surprised if the pistons weren't a forged design, as well as the rods. A cast crank would be more acceptable than cast pistons/rods. I've never seen a cast crank break on a German car. There are older 2.0l VW cranks that are cast and supporting over 600whp. The 2.0 4cylinder in the '15+ VW's all have forged pistons, rods and crankshafts. Didn't ever think BMW would do anything sub par, especially compared to VW..

I'm all in for learning the correct info, though.
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      11-19-2016, 06:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amw896 View Post
I didn't know the 235i and m2 n55s have different block design. Good to know!
Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
Based on stock Dynojet numbers, on average the 8AT M235 RWD puts down about 300whp and 320wtq. The 6MTs fractionally more due to a slightly more efficient drivetrain. Assuming a 18% drivetrain loss for the RWD 8AT, the N55 in the M235 makes around 350-360hp and 370-380tq at the flywheel. A JB1 or JP4 Stage 1 tune will add about 25-30whp and 30-40wtq (~390hp/425tq flywheel).

The engine block in the N54 and N55 are very similar and are essentially open deck. The N55 in M2 is the closed deck S55 block from the M3/M4. Closed deck blocks are stronger though are harder to keep cool. With that said, failure of engine blocks, crankshafts, pistons, connecting rods, and bearings in stock and modded N54/N55 is pretty rare. There are occasional failures but almost all are in cars pushing significantly more power than stock or stock cars with low mileage and a manufacturing defect. My point though, the open deck rotating assembly in the M235 N55 doesn't seem to be much a reliability hindrance.

The N55 in the M2 is basically a Stage 1 tuned M235 N55. There have been reports of the M2 suffering from heat soak issues when run hard for extended periods or back to back dyno runs. This brings me to my main point. More power = more heat in the N55. Be prepared for it if you add more power to these turbo motors. The motor will very likely be fine with a standard Stage 1 tune and DP; however, if you track the car, you should probably consider an upgraded (not huge though) intercooler at the least. Definitely run the highest octane available as well. On really hot days, refrain from pushing the car really hard.

Heat can lead to detonation events which can lead to hammering of the rod bearings, broken pistons, and/or wrecked connecting rods. The DME (ECU) in these cars is pretty smart and quick to react; however, if you add an aggressive tune and/or numerous modifications, you start to venture further and further away from the DME's ability to keep the motor together.

I'd suggest not going beyond a standard tune and DP if reliability is a major concern to you. If you want even more power, consider buying a more powerful stock car. It's far cheaper that way.
Everything you stated is correct but the fact that the block is diffeent in an M2. We've heard so much about it being closed deck, but yet BMW Has never officially published any official statements confirming this.

Forged internals from crank to rods and pistons yes. Turbo has a different part number but no one has confirmed it being bigger.

So I guess the jury is still out on the closed deck because NO one has proven different thus far.
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      11-20-2016, 01:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
Based on stock Dynojet numbers, on average the 8AT M235 RWD puts down about 300whp and 320wtq. The 6MTs fractionally more due to a slightly more efficient drivetrain. Assuming a 18% drivetrain loss for the RWD 8AT, the N55 in the M235 makes around 350-360hp and 370-380tq at the flywheel. A JB1 or JP4 Stage 1 tune will add about 25-30whp and 30-40wtq (~390hp/425tq flywheel).

The engine block in the N54 and N55 are very similar and are essentially open deck. The N55 in M2 is the closed deck S55 block from the M3/M4. Closed deck blocks are stronger though are harder to keep cool. With that said, failure of engine blocks, crankshafts, pistons, connecting rods, and bearings in stock and modded N54/N55 is pretty rare. There are occasional failures but almost all are in cars pushing significantly more power than stock or stock cars with low mileage and a manufacturing defect. My point though, the open deck rotating assembly in the M235 N55 doesn't seem to be much a reliability hindrance.

The N55 in the M2 is basically a Stage 1 tuned M235 N55. There have been reports of the M2 suffering from heat soak issues when run hard for extended periods or back to back dyno runs. This brings me to my main point. More power = more heat in the N55. Be prepared for it if you add more power to these turbo motors. The motor will very likely be fine with a standard Stage 1 tune and DP; however, if you track the car, you should probably consider an upgraded (not huge though) intercooler at the least. Definitely run the highest octane available as well. On really hot days, refrain from pushing the car really hard.

Heat can lead to detonation events which can lead to hammering of the rod bearings, broken pistons, and/or wrecked connecting rods. The DME (ECU) in these cars is pretty smart and quick to react; however, if you add an aggressive tune and/or numerous modifications, you start to venture further and further away from the DME's ability to keep the motor together.

I'd suggest not going beyond a standard tune and DP if reliability is a major concern to you. If you want even more power, consider buying a more powerful stock car. It's far cheaper that way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dejan_ View Post
Everything you stated is correct but the fact that the block is diffeent in an M2. We've heard so much about it being closed deck, but yet BMW Has never officially published any official statements confirming this.

Forged internals from crank to rods and pistons yes. Turbo has a different part number but no one has confirmed it being bigger.

So I guess the jury is still out on the closed deck because NO one has proven different thus far.
I agree. I've never read that the block on the M2 was the same as the M3/M4. Only the moving forged internals you mentioned.
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      11-20-2016, 12:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I agree. I've never read that the block on the M2 was the same as the M3/M4. Only the moving forged internals you mentioned.

"The M2’s fully aluminum closed-deck block design and gray cast iron liners allow cylinders to endure higher pressure under the most demanding driving conditions."

https://www.bmwusa.com/vehicles/m/m2.html


The M235 runs a forged crank (same as the M2/M3/M4) compared to the cast crank used in the non-M235 N55s.
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      11-20-2016, 03:03 PM   #17
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these cars can handle over 500whp without any issues.

Your stage 1 or stage 2 is nothing.

We have members running HUGE single turbos, many running Stage 2 turbo upgrades, a few running Dinan and stage 1 turbos, meth, port injection, etc...


A full bolt on and tuned car will be right around 400 whp, and 450+ lb tq.
Adding octane will raise both numbers.

Like all n55/54's the limiting factor in these cars is fuel. The HPFP cannot handle the needs with increased hp so many will go meth with stock turbos to get the most out of them. Port injection for upgraded turbos.

The LPFP can be swapped with a Fuel it kit, but this is just designed to allow more e85 than stock. It still wont solve your issues alone.
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      11-20-2016, 03:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukeapenguin View Post
So, I am planning to tune my car to have more HP, considering to get a stage 1+catless or jb4. Really wondering some S1 may be harmful to engine.


Thanks
Stage 1 + catless will not harmful to your engine, you will get a check engine light because of the missing cats.

As long as you run recommended maps you will not harming your engine ... This is coming from the guy that own a 2007 335 with 126k miles running almost 450 whp
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      11-20-2016, 07:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
"The M2’s fully aluminum closed-deck block design and gray cast iron liners allow cylinders to endure higher pressure under the most demanding driving conditions."

https://www.bmwusa.com/vehicles/m/m2.html


The M235 runs a forged crank (same as the M2/M3/M4) compared to the cast crank used in the non-M235 N55s.
So do you how about rods? Forged in N55 or need a replacement.
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      11-20-2016, 07:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com View Post
Stage 1 + catless will not harmful to your engine, you will get a check engine light because of the missing cats.

As long as you run recommended maps you will not harming your engine ... This is coming from the guy that own a 2007 335 with 126k miles running almost 450 whp
Hi Mike, should I run a sport cat? My car is F23 and some day top down, just for smell...

Big difference between sport cat or all catless?

Is ER one good to take?
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      11-20-2016, 07:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukeapenguin View Post
Hi Mike, should I run a sport cat? My car is F23 and some day top down, just for smell...

Big difference between sport cat or all catless?

Is ER one good to take?
ER is good, our most popular is Wagner

Fabspeed uses superior HJS cats so thats another really good option
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      11-20-2016, 07:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
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ER is good, our most popular is Wagner

Fabspeed uses superior HJS cats so thats another really good option
I live in Canada so facing a serious tax and duty's problem, about 20% extra so I have to choose in Canada.

I saw some fabspeed's video, sounds are amazing and impression... just for tax... killing us.
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