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      03-19-2016, 03:27 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beartato View Post
THIS.

Everything else in the car is modern and sleek then you have this Atari inspired compass readout in the rear view mirror. I didn't see a way to code it out on the F22 code list but I may have overlooked it.
I don't have a 2 Series and don't have a compass in my mirror either ('12 328i with no Premium Package) but I read from here that you can turn off the compass - apparently there is a tiny button (think a pinprick sized reset button on a watch) on the bottom of the mirror that you can press to turn on/off for the compass. Not sure if it is still there for newer car models. Maybe that helps?
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      03-19-2016, 06:31 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by red-sauerkraut View Post
Nope. Just open your door, smack you hard in the head, pull you out on the ground, and drive your shit away.


You cannot do that with a locked door brosef.
Or a seat belt brosef. Seat belts have brosefs too.
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      03-19-2016, 06:48 PM   #91
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You'd be surprised.
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Originally Posted by raleedy View Post
Or a seat belt brosef. Seat belts have brosefs too.
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      03-19-2016, 08:49 PM   #92
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Hate:

No HUD option
No temp gauge
No LSD standard
Momentary throttle lag between shifts
No rear diffuser standard

Love:

Overall size
Engine torque
Ride quality
Navigation system
Shifter
Steering wheel
M Performance diffuser
M Performance exhaust
M Performance stainless pedal covers

The Love overcomes the Hate, easily.
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      03-19-2016, 11:04 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 23fizzer View Post
oh and obviously the number one most annoying thing is the lack of a temperature gauge. that goes without saying though, right?
No, because on a modern BMW it would be completely pointless. The engine ECU varies the engine coolant temperature widely depending on current operating conditions. An actual gauge would have to be so dumbed down that it would effectively be the same as an idiot light. We already have that. What would be useful is what I think some Subarus have, a little light to tell you the engine isn't up to temp yet. Or the dynamic redline on the tach that the M-cars get.

What should certainly be available for those of us with the extended displays in the instrument cluster is the ability to change the fuel econ gauge to an oil temp gauge. Or at least have a digital readout available.
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      03-19-2016, 11:09 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpsRider View Post
I guess you never have to stop at stoplights in bad neighborhoods :-)
Not usually. I have never in my life felt I needed to have the doors locked while driving a car. Is it so much effort to push the lock button if you feel you must?
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      03-19-2016, 11:40 PM   #95
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Hate is a strong word, but there are a few things that I wish were different:

-the fuel tank is too small.

-even with the sunroof delete, there is barely enough headroom for us long of torso types. Seat should go lower.

-wish the beltline was lower - no resting the elbow on the windowsill in this car.

-Agree that all the running lights should be LED at this point for this price. They are in my '11 328i!

-Wish the color choices were better. At least offer the M235i in Valencia Orange.

-Wish you could get a 228i with Premium Pkg without the sunroof.

-The LSD is just egregiously expensive.

-The fancy big LCD in the extended instrument cluster should do more.

-Wish there was an option to skip iDrive altogether like in the Euro 1-series. I would be perfectly happy with the 2 knobs and 10 buttons that my '11 has.

-Too much gloss plastic and silver highlights in the center dash area - I much preferred the original matt plastic. Will probably back-date to the older parts at some point.
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      03-20-2016, 06:43 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krhodes1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 23fizzer View Post
oh and obviously the number one most annoying thing is the lack of a temperature gauge. that goes without saying though, right?
No, because on a modern BMW it would be completely pointless. The engine ECU varies the engine coolant temperature widely depending on current operating conditions. An actual gauge would have to be so dumbed down that it would effectively be the same as an idiot light. We already have that. What would be useful is what I think some Subarus have, a little light to tell you the engine isn't up to temp yet. Or the dynamic redline on the tach that the M-cars get.

What should certainly be available for those of us with the extended displays in the instrument cluster is the ability to change the fuel econ gauge to an oil temp gauge. Or at least have a digital readout available.
IIRC, my two most recent BMWs (and maybe more) had oil temperature gauges instead of coolant gauges. In any case, it's not a good thing that BMW doesn't provide any way to tell us when the engine is fully warmed up. Whether a gauge or a light, they should do something about it.
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      03-20-2016, 07:50 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midlifecrisis View Post
IIRC, my two most recent BMWs (and maybe more) had oil temperature gauges instead of coolant gauges. In any case, it's not a good thing that BMW doesn't provide any way to tell us when the engine is fully warmed up. Whether a gauge or a light, they should do something about it.
Well, you can stick a ScanGauge under the headlight control.

Does it have a real 70s J.C.Whitney feel? Sure. However, you can't see it from outside of the car, and inside the car no one but the driver can see it. In this location, the the left 2 columns (oil temp and water temp on mine) are visible to the driver all the time.

Not a perfect solution, and this location only works if you have Driver Assistance Plus and don't have the left hand storage box. Still, beats losing a vent or a bunch of dash to a phone mount.



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      03-20-2016, 09:54 AM   #98
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Pulling the door handle twice to get out. WAY over-thinking things there...
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      03-20-2016, 10:08 AM   #99
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Plus One, Big Time!!!

Plus One, Big Time!!!

It almost looks like it is starting to pit in that grove.?
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I would say the wheels on the M235i, love the color but what a poor design. Why would you design a wheel with a groove in it that holds water and doesn't let it run off. There's always a couple areas of grit and dirt in the groove from water sitting after washing it or dirty rain water and brake dust creating black crap.

Last edited by Spydeputy; 03-20-2016 at 10:58 AM..
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      03-20-2016, 10:59 AM   #100
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For that are upset about the lack of coolant temp and oil temp gauges. Coolant temp gauges in all late model cars are basically idiot gauges. That's it. They're either telling you the motor is stone cold, somewhere around operating temp, or overheating. Just because an engine is warm doesn't mean the oil is warm though. There's quite a lag with oil warm up and it's very important that oil be up to temp before romping on it. This is where an oil gauge would be nice. However, since we don't have one, something like a BT scanner and Torque App allows you to gauge how long it takes the M235 to warm up. So here you go:

1) On a cold start (ie the car has sat for over 2 hours or longer) on a 35 degree day, it takes about 5 minutes of driving to get the coolant up to temp and at least 10 minutes to get the oil up to temp. If you're doing a lot coasting, it will take longer.

2) On a hot start and in those temps, it's a matter of a few minutes for full warm up.

3) In temps 20 to 30 degrees and a cold start, add 5 minutes to those numbers in bullet 1. In sub 20 degree temps, you really should avoid romping on it all together.

4) On a cold start in 60 degree weather, warm up times are about 20% quicker.

Adjust your warm up times from there depending on the type of start and ambient temp.

Those with 6mts, these trannies take quite some time to get the fluid up to temp. Don't rush the shifts in the first 10 minutes of driving a cold start. From what I'm seeing, the fluid used in the tranny is made for hard driving, thus it takes some time to get up to temp.

I can't weight in on the ZF 8AT, but my guess is the tranny ecu neuters torque (ie torque managment) until ATF fluid is up to temp. Lots of late model autos do this. Driving a cold automatic hard is very very bad.
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      03-20-2016, 11:35 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooks527
Quote:
Originally Posted by midlifecrisis View Post
IIRC, my two most recent BMWs (and maybe more) had oil temperature gauges instead of coolant gauges. In any case, it's not a good thing that BMW doesn't provide any way to tell us when the engine is fully warmed up. Whether a gauge or a light, they should do something about it.
Well, you can stick a ScanGauge under the headlight control.

Does it have a real 70s J.C.Whitney feel? Sure. However, you can't see it from outside of the car, and inside the car no one but the driver can see it. In this location, the the left 2 columns (oil temp and water temp on mine) are visible to the driver all the time.

Not a perfect solution, and this location only works if you have Driver Assistance Plus and don't have the left hand storage box. Still, beats losing a vent or a bunch of dash to a phone mount.



Any idea if that would fit in the storage compartment for cars so equipped? That would be pretty slick.
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      03-20-2016, 11:42 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
I can't weight in on the ZF 8AT, but my guess is the tranny ecu neuters torque (ie torque managment) until ATF fluid is up to temp. Lots of late model autos do this. Driving a cold automatic hard is very very bad.
From my experience with the F10/N20 combination, it's my impression that the ZF 8-speed transmission is clutched nearly all the time it's not actually shifting, even when cold. To me the implication is that a light foot is important mostly for the sake of the engine and turbo (high torque demand at low rpm) at low operating temps. Either way, it seems best to drive moderately until everything's warmed up.
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      03-20-2016, 11:44 AM   #103
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"1) On a cold start (ie the car has sat for over 2 hours or longer) on a 35 degree day, it takes about 5 minutes of driving to get the coolant up to temp and at least 10 minutes to get the oil up to temp. If you're doing a lot coasting, it will take longer.

2) On a hot start and in those temps, it's a matter of a few minutes for full warm up.

3) In temps 20 to 30 degrees and a cold start, add 5 minutes to those numbers in bullet 1. In sub 20 degree temps, you really should avoid romping on it all together.

4) On a cold start in 60 degree weather, warm up times are about 20% quicker.

Adjust your warm up times from there depending on the type of start and ambient temp."

I have a BT scanner and Torque Pro, I agree with your warm up findings. Torque Pro was especially helpful to me in the beginning so that I could get a feel of how long it takes for my car's oil to warm up. It takes much longer than I would have guessed.
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      03-20-2016, 11:46 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pparana View Post
Man If you figure how to code it out let me know. I will owe you many beers.
Yo...

Quote:
Originally Posted by boafriend View Post
I don't have a 2 Series and don't have a compass in my mirror either ('12 328i with no Premium Package) but I read from here that you can turn off the compass - apparently there is a tiny button (think a pinprick sized reset button on a watch) on the bottom of the mirror that you can press to turn on/off for the compass. Not sure if it is still there for newer car models. Maybe that helps?
This totally works. Thanks!
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      03-20-2016, 11:49 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krhodes1 View Post
Not usually. I have never in my life felt I needed to have the doors locked while driving a car. Is it so much effort to push the lock button if you feel you must?
It's not really too much trouble if you live in Maine, if you live in a big city life is different.
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      03-20-2016, 11:55 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpsRider View Post

I have a BT scanner and Torque Pro, I agree with your warm up findings. Torque Pro was especially helpful to me in the beginning so that I could get a feel of how long it takes for my car's oil to warm up. It takes much longer than I would have guessed.
Large quantity of a fluid that has relatively high thermal inertia. But it doesn't need to be really hot like the coolant. 160º F is plenty (the internal temp of well-done beef).
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      03-20-2016, 12:11 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raleedy View Post
Large quantity of a fluid that has relatively high thermal inertia. But it doesn't need to be really hot like the coolant. 160º F is plenty (the internal temp of well-done beef).
I guess I'm a bit cautious, I wait until 180 degrees before sport shifting and 200 for flat out behavior, my reasoning is that it allows the heat to be uniformly distributed throughout the engine and transmission drive train. Yesterday I went through the mountains and my oil temp was around 250, I wasn't even pushing it that hard. I wonder at what point or under what conditions the extra oil and coolant radiators in the grill of the M235 are functioning.

Last edited by AlpsRider; 03-20-2016 at 12:18 PM..
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      03-20-2016, 12:35 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEM-S4 View Post
Any idea if that would fit in the storage compartment for cars so equipped? That would be pretty slick.
Oh, I'm sure it could. It's only about 1.5" high and an inch deep. I saw something one guy did in his SmartCar to make it look semi-OEM.

http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/for...-install-6881/



I bought mine from the manufacturer. They will send you an F-series BMW/Mini model that supports oil temp, oil pressure, fuel rail pressure, and a few other items. Actually drops the price by $0.01, as you ask for the specific version using a "coupon".
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      03-20-2016, 12:42 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raleedy View Post
Large quantity of a fluid that has relatively high thermal inertia. But it doesn't need to be really hot like the coolant. 160º F is plenty (the internal temp of well-done beef).
I'm not sure I'd consider 160F to be "plenty". 160F for oil temperature is the typical "stay under 3000 rpm" point you will see people quote for a turbo engine, and "don't lean on it until over 200F" is another.

There's a reason for this. Take a crankshaft. Assume a nominal length of 18" and assume it's constructed of steel. A typical steel will have a thermal expansion coefficient of .0000073 in/(in degF). Say I had rolled out of my house this morning at 7:30am (24F) and fired my car up. The normal engine operating temperature is 240F. The crankshaft will grow (0.0000073*216*18 inches) = 0.028" in length. Everything fit into a bearing will grow along with the crankshaft, and all of them will increased in diameter. The bearings will grow radially, tightening the internal and external channels.

Where is it at 160F? Barely over half of that growth. Everything is still working to get fit together. You don't want to hit the engine hard at that point, because the critical bearings and shafts (think oil-cooled turbochargers at 6-digit rpm) aren't close to fully seated yet.
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      03-20-2016, 12:58 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooks527 View Post
I'm not sure I'd consider 160F to be "plenty". 160F for oil temperature is the typical "stay under 3000 rpm" point you will see people quote for a turbo engine, and "don't lean on it until over 200F" is another.

There's a reason for this. Take a crankshaft. Assume a nominal length of 18" and assume it's constructed of steel. A typical steel will have a thermal expansion coefficient of .0000073 in/(in degF). Say I had rolled out of my house this morning at 7:30am (24F) and fired my car up. The normal engine operating temperature is 240F. The crankshaft will grow (0.0000073*216*18 inches) = 0.028" in length. Everything fit into a bearing will grow along with the crankshaft, and all of them will increased in diameter. The bearings will grow radially, tightening the internal and external channels.

Where is it at 160F? Barely over half of that growth. Everything is still working to get fit together. You don't want to hit the engine hard at that point, because the critical bearings and shafts (think oil-cooled turbochargers at 6-digit rpm) aren't close to fully seated yet.



I just drive it easy when it's cold. It's easier than thinking of the engine parts expanding as they warm up.
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