[jhbjrpdx]

I did a bunch of track days with my much loved Mini Cooper S. I started the first time by taking it out stock then made changes. While I have Sportline on my 228i, I don't have the M brakes or sticky tires. What do folks think about taking my stock Sportline out for a day just see how it feels then decide what I want to mod?

Thanks JHB

[zkeeper]

It's a fine idea as long as you have enough decent miles on entire drive train.

You WILL go thru brake pucks faster than you think especially to find out some limits to the car at any higher speeds. But it will be fun to see what you need from that reference point day.

[wjones14]

I have seen all manner of bone-stock cars at track day events, including cars far less capable than yours, such as Honda Civic Si. First track day I ever did was with my Mustang when it was totally stock, including all-season tires. You'll be more than fine with yours. As you know, brakes are almost the most important piece of equipment at track days, so just go easy on them and have fun!

[Liquidpaper]

Originally Posted by jhbjrpdx

I did a bunch of track days with my much loved Mini Cooper S. I started the first time by taking it out stock then made changes. While I have Sportline on my 228i, I don't have the M brakes or sticky tires. What do folks think about taking my stock Sportline out for a day just see how it feels then decide what I want to mod?

Thanks JHB

I've actually done quite of bit of track work with my M235i, a lot of it while the car was basically stock. If you'd like, I have some suggestions:

1. Swap your brake fluid

It costs like 30 bucks, but go get some hi-temp DOT 4 fluid -- I use ATE 200. If you track any street car (almost), the brakes will fade because the brake fluid will boil. Same on the 2 series. So, do yourself a favor and switch that stuff out before you go on the track.

2. Find a way to measure oil temperatures

I got a P3 vent gauge to monitor my oil temperatures on the track, but you could go check out the OBD2 Bluetooth/Torque thread in the Tech forum on here. Its a cheap (and extremely good) alternative. The only reason I suggest this is because turbocharged cars tend to run a little hot, and the 228i doesn't have extra oil coolers like the M235i, so you might have to keep an eye on your oil temp.

3. Be kind to your tires

The car will do just fine stock. However, the 2 series, for some reason (like most BMWs) like to eat front tires that do not have enough negative camber. I corded my first set of tires and started to chunk another front before I figured this out. You don't need to modify your suspension, but just be aware of your tire temps, pressures, etc., and if you are seeing rollover on the track and heavy wear on the shoulders, back it off a bit. Tires are expensive.

Otherwise, you are going to have a blast. The 2 is a lot of fun on a track.

[NEUE02]

I agree with the advice of the others. Definitely go for it!

I spent a lot of seat time in a stock and heavily modified Mini Cooper S as well. They are awesome machines and surprise many at the track. But the 2 Series is a different animal regarding throttle application technique, power delivery, handling balance, over/understeer, braking limits, etc. So "starting over" is exactly what you need to do. Take it easy and get a feel for the car and work into it slowly. Your shouldn't even expect to be up to the control or speed limits you had in the Mini for a while. Be patient. Check your ego at the door and get to know, and enjoy, your new awesome machine. You're going to love it!

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by Liquidpaper

I've actually done quite of bit of track work with my M235i, a lot of it while the car was basically stock. If you'd like, I have some suggestions:

1. Swap your brake fluid

It costs like 30 bucks, but go get some hi-temp DOT 4 fluid -- I use ATE 200. If you track any street car (almost), the brakes will fade because the brake fluid will boil. Same on the 2 series. So, do yourself a favor and switch that stuff out before you go on the track.

2. Find a way to measure oil temperatures

I got a P3 vent gauge to monitor my oil temperatures on the track, but you could go check out the OBD2 Bluetooth/Torque thread in the Tech forum on here. Its a cheap (and extremely good) alternative. The only reason I suggest this is because turbocharged cars tend to run a little hot, and the 228i doesn't have extra oil coolers like the M235i, so you might have to keep an eye on your oil temp.

3. Be kind to your tires

The car will do just fine stock. However, the 2 series, for some reason (like most BMWs) like to eat front tires that do not have enough negative camber. I corded my first set of tires and started to chunk another front before I figured this out. You don't need to modify your suspension, but just be aware of your tire temps, pressures, etc., and if you are seeing rollover on the track and heavy wear on the shoulders, back it off a bit. Tires are expensive.

Otherwise, you are going to have a blast. The 2 is a lot of fun on a track.

+1

also I would go 40psi all around hot... specially in the front... else you will destroy the tires

[overcoil]

Are you guys pressure bleeding your brakes ?
Do you use the MOTIVE pressure bleeder?
What size flare wrench for the caliper bleeder valve?

[hoppy6698]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

+1

also I would go 40psi all around hot... specially in the front... else you will destroy the tires

+2 with one addition - I added steel brake lines. For $100, money well invested when combined with the ATE 200. Sticking with OEM pads cause BMW replaces them for free

[Ramos]

Re: oil and coolant temperature.
No need for the p3 gauge, if all you care about is monitoring these on track (like me), just learn to access the secret menu (search it on here) and do that before each session.

[wjones14]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

Are you guys pressure bleeding your brakes ?
Do you use the MOTIVE pressure bleeder?
What size flare wrench for the caliper bleeder valve?

I use the Motive bleeder on the Mustang and it works good. Never did it on a BMW before though so I don't know what size wrench for the bleeder valve.

One trick I use is to switch between ATE Super Blue and the ATE Typ 200. It's the same fluid, but one is blue and the other is gold, making it easy to tell when the old fluid is all gone.