12-05-2016, 12:57 PM | #111 |
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Hi Tiago,
I apologize for the posts before dealing with you directly. After talking with you I understand that this process is not beneficial to us both to resolve the issues that were experienced. I have gone forth and deleted my posts. |
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12-08-2016, 09:13 AM | #112 |
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I wanted to share my first impression of the 5" HD stepped core intercooler. And it looks great! Packaging was proper. The intercooler itself was clean, well constructed, and in perfect condition. Very well done at VRSF.
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12-08-2016, 11:44 AM | #113 | |
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Did you take any photos of the unit?
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12-10-2016, 01:20 PM | #116 |
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12-10-2016, 03:31 PM | #117 |
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12-10-2016, 07:45 PM | #119 |
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Drives: BMW M235i (8AT)
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Looking very good!
Ugh... I really want to get this. Probably going to order it next summer.
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BMW ///M235i (EBII) - BM3 (+TCU) - Wagner DP - ER CP - ER TIC CP - CSF FMIC - GFB DV+ - Pure Inlet - K&N Drop-in AF - MPE
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12-11-2016, 08:57 AM | #120 |
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I installed my VRSF race intercooler last night. It clearly is a work of art, and the thing is truly massive. As such there is very little room to get this in once you drop the OEM IC.
I found that the best way was to remove the front bumper, pop-out the brake ducts, and pull back the air shroud in front of the IC. This moves the giant 4" plastic lip that is stopping the intercooler from going straight it. Trust me you will fight this with your life/or shoulder. I used a combination of a hydraulic shop chair and my scissors lift to raise/lower the IC into place once this was done. If you have two people it would be easier. One to lift and hold the IC in place, and one to screw it down. 1. Remove stock intake/and box. a. One worm clamp at the intake b. Electrical plug at MAP sensor (two tabs, press both and pull connector off) c. Two T25's at the MAP sensor (then twist and pull out) d. vacuum connector (press the lock in, and pull up) e. the box is held in by a rubber plug. Just pull up and out. f. If you are doing the charge pipe, there is a plastic cover on the driver side, right next to the strut mount. You can remove this with one T25 bolt. (More clearance is better. Trust me the aftermarket pipes are metal, they don't bend like the OEM CP's.) 2. Unbolt radiator fan, there are two T25's (one on the left, and one on the right side), and then lift the transmission cooler up to disengage from radiator shroud. You might have to pry this away later, in order to move it out of the way of the mounting tab. 3. There are three coolant line clips along the top of the radiator, pop them out of the clips, and push the line away from the radiator fan. 4. On right side radiator there is a clip that needs to be disengaged. Find it, press it, lift up. Be careful, it will try to re-latch You need to do this while pushing that transmission cooler out of the way. 5. There is a zip-tie holding the wiring fan harness, you will need to cut this first. Then start pulling the radiator fan up, you don't need to pull it out, just a few inches to increase your clearance below. 6. Underneath there is another oil/cooler line that runs under the ic/radiator fan. Unclip these and pull the line backwards towards the rear of the car. I took a couple zipties and tied secured them out of the way. 7. On the right/passenger side there are two large wires (red/black) in a plastic box, pull them out, and pull them backwards towards the rear of the car slightly. I took a couple zipties to create a little more clearance here. This is a work in progress. I'll keep updating as i have time. Left Radiator T25 Screw Right Radiator T25 Screw If you find this useful small donations for coffee and beer are welcome Last edited by zipphreak; 12-12-2016 at 10:26 AM.. |
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12-11-2016, 09:43 AM | #121 | |
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I had to laugh at your first post cuz I can imagine you're like wtf do I do know half way though the install. Im glad you sorted it out. Thanks for the write up - I'm sure it'll come in handy when I place mine in. |
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12-11-2016, 10:12 AM | #122 |
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Haha trust me i was laughing too. I think that VRSF should've made and included their own instructions, I did ask, but they referred me to the OEM procedures. I know ER made a good instructions set for their CP and IC. It's hard work test fitting gear for manufacturers when you not getting paid for it, and then creating DIY's which help them sell more gear for their re-sellers They should provide some kickbacks for members that take the time to write up documented procedures.
When i have to go through the process and figure it out it makes things 100x harder. Plus the BMW procedures do not help, the stock IC will just drop out and back in, two screws, two IC clips, no issues. These stepped intercoolers are much larger and the longer stepped portion goes in front of the OEM cooler/radiator. The air shroud lip creates total interference here. But if you want you can just cut it and be done with it I would recommend this if you doing it on ramps ER CP install instructions Installation - BM-ICP007.pdf Wagner IC install instructions 200001071_Installation Instruction_BMW F20 F30.pdf Last edited by zipphreak; 12-12-2016 at 10:46 AM.. |
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12-11-2016, 11:21 AM | #123 | |
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12-12-2016, 10:26 AM | #124 |
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added a few fitment pictures to my thread above.. There is not much wasted space
Also don't say i never gave you nothing! Chargepipe Intercooler Oring/seal instructions Look at the o-ring and you will see that it is square in shape. On one side there is a “lip”. The lip side goes towards the inside of the pipe. You slide the o-ring into the groove in the charge pipe. Replacing Charge Pipe Procedure 11-61-365 Removing and install left hand charge air duct N55.pdf Replacing Intercooler Procedure 17-51-000 Removing and installing charge air cooler N55.pdf Removing Charge Pipe Clips Last edited by zipphreak; 12-14-2016 at 08:21 PM.. |
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12-14-2016, 08:19 PM | #125 |
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Hi guys, just an update for a couple details i wanted to point out. It looks like the F2x is slightly different vs their development F30's this was designed with.
The metal tabs on the back of the intercooler are there to hold the fan shroud. After it is installed the radiator shroud does not reach these tabs. I reached out to VRSF but there is not a solution as of yet. Also i found out the two bolt holes on top of the radiator are for a bracket that they don't include or sell yet. It is similar to the Evolution Racewerks intercooler, they would have a bracket that installs to the IC and then to the front bumper to help support the extra weight. Anyone else install the Race FMIC yet ? |
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12-15-2016, 08:28 PM | #127 |
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yah right and i don't even work for VRSF or one of their resellers. They should be paying me or at-least giving me something in return for the extra efforts! (wouldn't that be a nice gig) * * *hint hint, wink wink* * *
I could've stayed silent, but I'm trying to help the DIY members here, and enlighten 2-series buyers of the pitfalls of buying a new untested product on our model. VRSF tested everything on an F30, there was an assumption made that if the intercooler was the same that the radiator fan shroud would be as well between 2/3/4 series. We learned they are not unfortunately. Is it a huge deal ? Probably not, and nothing a couple of zip ties won't solve temporarily, but you live and learn! Tiago@VRSF is stepping up and going to work on something to secure the radiator shroud to the IC. So you have the O.G., Evolution Racewerks IC, long standing, good reputation, large install base. Now compared to the newcomer; the VRSF Race Intercooler trying to compete hard for "biggest d*ick of the land intercooler". These are the hurdles that have to get sorted for a new product. http://www.evolutionracewerks.com/node/258 Also for the XI (xDrive) guys for the 2, the best option for the CP now is only ER. VRSF sent me a mock prototype, didn't have the right offsets, and are still 3-4 weeks out on the next prototype. There is one other brand FTP Motorsports, but i have not seen many out there. If you ever plan on doing some meth injection, seems the ER is the best. Why? Two bungs! The other aftermarkets only come with one. Two smaller nozzles with less flow, is better than one bigger nozzle with more flow.. Atomization my dear Watson http://www.evolutionracewerks.com/node/236 http://www.ftpmotorsport.com.tw/prod...55-charge-pipe VRSF confirmed they are working on a "fix" for the F22's radiator tabs. VRSF confirmed they are not going to create an upper mounting bracket though. They said their testing showed the plastic OEM mounts are sufficient, and they "will not" create an upper mount as it is not needed (their opinion). When i have time i am going to source some T6061 aluminum flat bar, take a few measurements, drill some holes, and be done with it. (overkill is better) Last edited by zipphreak; 12-15-2016 at 09:05 PM.. |
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12-15-2016, 08:30 PM | #128 | |
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VRSF needs quality install guides with pictures and video if possible
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12-17-2016, 08:23 PM | #129 |
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Update:
I got my new ER Chargepipe for my auto/xdrive m235xi. Thanks mike@x-ph.com Unfortunately what i found out is not good. The VRSF Race intercooler has a slightly larger OD that prevents the metal chargepipes from seating properly. I have an email over to Tiago@VRSF. Disappointed slightly, first the radiator tabs don't line up, and now this. It's hard to see on the ER pipe (top picture), the slot shown is where the clip goes, and there is a groove on the IC where it sits. It get's stuck on a lip here, and doesn't go the rest of the way to line up. The bottom picture (VRSF pipe) is more noticeable as it stops right at the lip before the groove. Still no way to fit them, too much material on the outlet pipe it seems. Last edited by zipphreak; 12-18-2016 at 11:13 AM.. |
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12-30-2016, 12:16 PM | #131 |
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Got mine a couple of weeks ago, along with charge pipes and catless DP
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12-30-2016, 12:17 PM | #132 |
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Awesome, congrats!!
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