01-30-2020, 01:42 PM | #1 |
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Debating strategy: buy new 230i now or used later?
I have a 2017 230i that I'm completely happy with.
I at 60K miles and figure that I'm going to start having some service/repair expenses. So the last couple of weeks I've been pricing a factory build on a new 2020 230i. A bit skeptical about what may happen in Mexico next year and don't want the first year of a new build/factory. But I hadn't realized how big the appreciation is on these cars. They drop quickly and my trade-in isn't worth what I might I have liked. Also, I would really like Track Handling Package, but it's unavailable in new 230i coupe builds. And as far as current inventory, not paired with the colors and options I want. Should I give up THP, build/buy now? Or should I keep driving what I have through the spring, in hopes a low-mileage used THP car with the options I like becomes available? In theory, that would allow me to take advantage of the depreciation to get something that's a better value. But you also know how hard it is to get the exact combo of colors and features you want. I've also thought about playing with the control arms on my current 230i, and I guess mods make better sense on a car that's not under factory warranty. I'd welcome your thoughts on any of the above. |
01-30-2020, 01:47 PM | #2 |
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Check into the warranty coverage, I believe it changed in 2018 so right after you got your current car. The CPO is now only 1 year but unlimited miles, and the factory warranty no longer included maintenance (I don't think).
Again do the homework but I briefly looked at CPO for GF next 3-series and quickly decided getting a new one was the way to go unless we find a great exec demo with a few thousand miles on it. You could also just pay $2K to CPO yours and kick the can down the road a few years. I don't know when the completely new 2 series is coming (2022 maybe) but I'd wait til then and try to find a leftover for a good price.
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01-30-2020, 02:24 PM | #3 |
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If you're "completely happy", why make a change? Yes, you might start to experience some increased maintenance and repair costs, but then again you might not. No matter how it works out, I'd wager those increased maintenance and repair costs would still be less than your down payment and payments for a new car. Also, you know the history of your car, but any used car you look at has an unknown history. To me, fear of what might happen doesn't sound like a great reason to contemplate the change you're thinking about. Good luck with your decisions.
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01-31-2020, 07:47 AM | #5 |
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I know they aren't quite the same and that it isn't an exact comparison, but for what it's worth, my 2010 128i did not have any issues for the first 60,000 miles, and only had two minor issues between 60k and 80k. Once you get past that 80-90k mark is when these cars tend to need constant attention. I'm in the same situation, I've contacted multiple dealers about the pending move to Mexico and no one knows anything. They all told me that they won't hear anything any sooner than I would. I had hoped to get two more years out of my 128i, but I'm seriously considering moving up my purchase to this spring so I can make sure I get one of the last models made in Germany.
I'm not opposed to buying a car made in Mexico, but I'd rather not be one of the first to do so. I just know what happened when my company moved a plant from Texas to Juarez, it took a while to get the quality back up to where it was, and they were forced to raise wages to prevent constant turnover of the workforce. That's the real issue in my mind, there are skilled workers all over the world who can build these cars just as well as the Germans can. But in countries with lower wages, workers will often jump from one job to another when they are offered the equivalent of an extra $1.50 per hour. If BMW can train a group of skilled workers, keep them happy in their jobs, and pay them locally competitive wages, quality will not suffer. |
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01-31-2020, 09:12 AM | #6 |
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The next generation 2 Series coupe (convertible dropped) launches at San Luis Potosi in 8/21.
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01-31-2020, 10:39 AM | #7 | |
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There's little difference in moving up in model year. Want a new feature, just add it at a shop. Want a different color, wrap the car. Different rims? Buy them. All these things will cost nothing compared to getting into a newer car which superficially will look the same as the one you already have and not really drive any differently. Seth |
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01-31-2020, 11:11 AM | #8 |
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Interesting...where did you hear that? 8/21 would be the most logical time to do it, but no dealer has been able to give me that information. If this is true, when would they stop taking orders for cars made in Germany?
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01-31-2020, 02:02 PM | #10 | |
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See above.
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01-31-2020, 02:22 PM | #11 |
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You are upset with the depreciation so your plan is to buy a new(er) one and have that depreciation restart? Unless there is something really, really nagging you about your 230i that can be fixed with a different one, drive it until you want a different model car.
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01-31-2020, 05:23 PM | #12 |
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01-31-2020, 10:27 PM | #13 | |
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Drives: 2021 230i MSport, Mineral Grey
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Everyone: I appreciate you challenging me on this little new-vehicle shopping obsession I've had for a couple of weeks. That's why I put it out there. With the exception of a small repaired windshield crack, my car is cleaner than anything on the used car lot. And 90% of those 60,000 miles are highway miles (I commute 300 miles on weekends). I'd like a little more steering feel, and basically I wouldn't change anything else. |
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01-31-2020, 11:37 PM | #14 | |
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02-01-2020, 09:42 AM | #16 | |
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https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...m-upgrade-kit/
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02-01-2020, 12:55 PM | #17 |
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One more positive spin on keeping your current ride, from my mechanic when I was asking about the potentially catastrophic things like blown turbos: you can use 'failures' to upgrade to high performance parts for about the same cost as factory, especially via dealership rates.
So per the rules of manmath, this means that once you start modding it out, it is basically paying for itself, almost MAKING money by putting in new parts if you stay on it, right? |
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02-04-2020, 10:05 AM | #18 | |
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Pretty much anybody who's going to buy something with an M package or THP is going to keep that car at least as long as you've kept yours, so your odds of finding something with a THP for sale with less than the 60k you already have on your own car are slim to none right off the bat, and that's not even considering any other criteria you have. If you're happy with the car you've got, I agree with the general consensus that you should just keep it and put the money that you'd be spending on a new car into preventative maintenance and some aftermarket mods to get the performance boost you're looking for. The only reason I can see to buy new is if there are features you want that you just CAN'T get or add aftermarket to an older car. |
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07-29-2023, 08:32 PM | #19 | |
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I just came across this thread, and particularly the M2 lower control arms.. While interest and subject matter in this thread may be long gone, I’m curious who may have had personal experience with this upgrade. My #1 quest attempts to regain (AMAP) bmw’s exemplary steering characteristics in their past hydraulically steered cars. This legacy is “presently lost”, but remains at the top of my priority list. As much as possible I’ve attempted to hone, improve and “dial in” my car’s performance; a 2020 230i built in Leipzig 08/2019, with 6 sp. Manual trans, track handling package, adaptive M suspension, active led headlights. To improve steering and handling I’ve added Bilstein B6 struts/shocks which includes EDC (Electronic Damper Control), Turner solid aluminum rear subframe bushings, and 19mm rear Dinan anti roll bar. Would love to hear more from anyone regarding the M2 lower control arms upgrade available from Turner. Thanks |
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07-29-2023, 11:07 PM | #20 | |
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08-15-2023, 07:35 PM | #21 |
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By “ the alignment was revised to plus 1 degree of negative camber”, I assume you’re referring to the rear Turner Subframe bushings and adding 1 degree negative camber to the rear?
I have the before/ after alignment specs filled somewhere. Do you recall your final total rear camber setting? Thanks. |
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08-15-2023, 10:05 PM | #22 | |
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