[Bmw Fan M240i]

After lots of research I decided to go with Gyeon Quartz for the ceramic coating of my new car, took it in to a local detailer on Tuesday and collected it yesterday.
Using all Gyeon products the car was coated twice with their MOhs product, then a third coat with their durabead and final cure coat product. Windows were coated, wheels off and coated, calipers coated, all interior trim, leather and fabrics coated, all engine bay plastics coated, boot interior coated and exhausts tips coated.
Looked stunning when I collected, better than the showroom when i first got it and that’s without the showroom lights!
A couple of photos from when I collected yesterday, since then the car has done around 75 miles and was covered in thick ice this morning and still looked stunning once dried out as you can see from the other photos
Has a 5 year conditional warranty (not sure if that’s worth anything) but I intend to take it back once a year for a booster\top up. Future cleaning should be a breeze now. It wasn’t cheap but I am more than pleased with the results. Looking forward to giving it its first wash just to see exactly how easy it is, like they suggest.
Sorry, photos are not great but the weather has been pretty dull and dismal.

[Ron Jeffries]

Sure looks nice!

[SteveInfante]

It's worth the money. That's one of my favorite lines of ceramic coatings.

[Bmw Fan M240i]

Originally Posted by SteveInfante

It's worth the money. That's one of my favorite lines of ceramic coatings.

reassuring to know, going to get some Gyeon essence shampoo and water spot remover and microfibre drying towels for future washing, the detailer reccomeded a pet dryer to help dry the car after a wash too, so that’s my Christmas list sorted. Really want it to rain now so I can see how good the beading is.

[SteveInfante]

Originally Posted by Bmw Fan M240i

reassuring to know, going to get some Gyeon essence shampoo and water spot remover and microfibre drying towels for future washing, the detailer reccomeded a pet dryer to help dry the car after a wash too, so thatÂ’s my Christmas list sorted. Really want it to rain now so I can see how good the beading is.

Never heard of the pet drier. I have been using a $35 corded leaf blower for the last 10 years. Same one even. Money well spent. If you don't touch it, you don't scratch it.

[Bmw Fan M240i]

Originally Posted by SteveInfante

Never heard of the pet drier. I have been using a $35 corded leaf blower for the last 10 years. Same one even. Money well spent. If you don't touch it, you don't scratch it.

Yeah. Pet driers are about £50, they just give the option of a little heat. Never even thought about it but makes sense being able to blow all the water out all of the tight to reach areas.

[SteveInfante]

Originally Posted by Bmw Fan M240i

Yeah. Pet driers are about £50, they just give the option of a little heat. Never even thought about it but makes sense being able to blow all the water out all of the tight to reach areas.

I live in South Carolina so heated air isn't usually a problem here. Ha ha. Make sure your mirrors are folded when you wash the car so the water is easier to get out of there. It's a pain to have to open the door and fold them mid way through a wash.

[Toxophilite]

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of protection does this provide and how much did it cost?

I am thinking of adding some protection to the paint but I also want something like a clear bra for rock chips on the front areas

[Bmw Fan M240i]

Originally Posted by Toxophilite

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of protection does this provide and how much did it cost?

I am thinking of adding some protection to the paint but I also want something like a clear bra for rock chips on the front areas

Hi, if you research ceramic coating some you can read up on it, it’s similar to a wax but forms a hard barrier over the paintwork protecting it from the emelments, bird droppings etc etc. Also protects from swirl marks on the paint. Depending on what one depends on how long it’s lasts, Gyeon say this should stay on for upto 5 years. There are lots of options. I upgraded to the Gyeon durabead final coat which offers the most protection.
It’s hydrophobic somwater just slides off it, almost like a self clean system. Regular washing becomes a lot easier.
G-techniq was another brand which looked quite good.
Price varies, the products themselfs are quite expensive. And the procedure takes a long time needing 12-24 hours between coats to cure. I paid £500.

[SteveInfante]

Originally Posted by Toxophilite

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of protection does this provide and how much did it cost?

I am thinking of adding some protection to the paint but I also want something like a clear bra for rock chips on the front areas

Depending on how much correction needs to be done to the paint surface the range in price varies greatly. You can have the clear bra applied directly over the coating as well. Call a reputable detailer in your area who is certified using the product you are interested in and go from there.

[Toxophilite]

thanks for the help! Yeah I just reached out to a local detailer to see if they can help with a cost estimate. It does seem to be worth it so it is something that I will be doing with my car once it arrives I do still need something like protective film since I live in a snowy area where they put sand on the roads to help with traction so rock chips are very common.

[Sportstick]

Originally Posted by Toxophilite

thanks for the help! Yeah I just reached out to a local detailer to see if they can help with a cost estimate. It does seem to be worth it so it is something that I will be doing with my car once it arrives I do still need something like protective film since I live in a snowy area where they put sand on the roads to help with traction so rock chips are very common.

After discussion with the folks who applied my coating and Xpel film, we did the Xpel first, so it was also coated for more continuity in appearance/shine.

[Rayscott]

I own a detailing business and ceramic coatings are becoming very popular due to the improvements in shine and durability. They are not cheap as it is very time consuming and the products are very expensive compared to a polymer final coating. It must must be applied by an experienced professional or it could result in a poor job. I charge $200-250 for a standard detail which involves clay bar, polish and a polymer coating and full interior. If I decide to go to ceramic I will experiment first but my price would increase by at least $150 to cover labor and material. A lot of my customers would not pay that much. However, I just detailed a 2016 Porsche 911 GT3RS which cost $242K (loaded) so this guy wouldn't flinch over a mere $150. So the rich guys living in their beach mansions down here would certainly be a viable market.

[Rayscott]

Originally Posted by Sportstick

After discussion with the folks who applied my coating and Xpel film, we did the Xpel first, so it was also coated for more continuity in appearance/shine.

That is the recommended way my detailing supplier suggests. Film is better for stone chips, minor dings and the coating covers the remaining areas. May I ask how much they charged for each if you don't mind.

[Toxophilite]

Originally Posted by Sportstick

After discussion with the folks who applied my coating and Xpel film, we did the Xpel first, so it was also coated for more continuity in appearance/shine.

I was under the impression that the coating reacts directly with the paint. Adding it on top of the Xpel seems... odd..? Maybe I just don't know enough about it yet...

[Rayscott]

Originally Posted by Toxophilite

I was under the impression that the coating reacts directly with the paint. Adding it on top of the Xpel seems... odd..? Maybe I just don't know enough about it yet...

I thought he meant Xpel for parts exposed to chips, etc and other parts got the coating. Coating over the film would seem a waste but maybe I misinterpreted this.

[Sportstick]

Originally Posted by Rayscott

I thought he meant Xpel for parts exposed to chips, etc and other parts got the coating. Coating over the film would seem a waste but maybe I misinterpreted this.

You interpreted my comment correctly. The suggestion I received was to help commonize the level of gloss and reduce any remaining appearance of the film by having the same coating as on the paint. I did not do a controlled experiment to compare, but the results are excellent.

[XutvJet]

The car looks great and that color is stellar.

Not to cause controversy but I don't understand the need for these pricey nano sealants on daily driven cars. The daily grind of road travel will break these systems down far quicker than their "up to 5 year protection" claims. If it were a weekend car that doesn't see much mileage, I could see the sealant lasting 5 years. However, in lots of sun, rain, snow, salt, road junk, etc., it's just not going to last and will degrade quicker. Plus, if you need to do any sort of paint correction work, you'll blow right through the sealant.

Also, what's the measure by which these sealants are warrantied? How would they test it to prove it's still there and of an appropriate thickness? You buy the kits for ~$100 or have a professional do it for $600+ depending on how much prep is needed to get the paint in shape prior to application. To apply it yourself require a keen eye and skill or else it could make the finish look like crap.

There's no doubt these sealants can offer a great glossy finish and is a must for a show car, but I have yet to see it exceed the immediate results of what someone could do with a $70 HF DA polisher, a couple basic pads, and non-fancy polish and 2 hours time.

If you do the basics to take care of your paint like wash the car often, use decent microfiber mitts and towels (and wash them often), and polish and clay the car once a year, the finish should easily be maintained and require very little correction.

IMO, the best use for these sealants on a daily driver are for the wheels. It does help to keep the dust from biting and sticking to the wheel clear coat.

[Toxophilite]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

The car looks great and that color is stellar.

Not to cause controversy but I don't understand the need for these pricey nano sealants on daily driven cars. The daily grind of road travel will break these systems down far quicker than their "up to 5 year protection" claims. If it were a weekend car that doesn't see much mileage, I could see the sealant lasting 5 years. However, in lots of sun, rain, snow, salt, road junk, etc., it's just not going to last and will degrade quicker. Plus, if you need to do any sort of paint correction work, you'll blow right through the sealant.

Also, what's the measure by which these sealants are warrantied? How would they test it to prove it's still there and of an appropriate thickness? You buy the kits for ~$100 or have a professional do it for $600+ depending on how much prep is needed to get the paint in shape prior to application. To apply it yourself require a keen eye and skill or else it could make the finish look like crap.

There's no doubt these sealants can offer a great glossy finish and is a must for a show car, but I have yet to see it exceed the immediate results of what someone could do with a $70 HF DA polisher, a couple basic pads, and non-fancy polish and 2 hours time.

If you do the basics to take care of your paint like wash the car often, use decent microfiber mitts and towels (and wash them often), and polish and clay the car once a year, the finish should easily be maintained and require very little correction.

IMO, the best use for these sealants on a daily driver are for the wheels. It does help to keep the dust from biting and sticking to the wheel clear coat.

Not sure you would need to do paint correction though if you have the sealant (or at least you would hope not...). I wouldn't apply it myself. It seems like the C. Quartz Finest isn't even available to consumers and can only be installed by an official detailer.

I want to have this added to my car as I have an unreasonable fear of swirls on my car haha this won't protect it forever from that but it will protect it more than if it wasn't applied. I mean.. I do a touchless wash, then I use a microfiber wash cloth to wash the car again and then wax unless I need to polish any other areas. I am very anal about the paint so this would provide peace of mind for me so I personally think it would be worth it but to each their own.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by Toxophilite

Not sure you would need to do paint correction though if you have the sealant (or at least you would hope not...). I wouldn't apply it myself. It seems like the C. Quartz Finest isn't even available to consumers and can only be installed by an official detailer.

I want to have this added to my car as I have an unreasonable fear of swirls on my car haha this won't protect it forever from that but it will protect it more than if it wasn't applied. I mean.. I do a touchless wash, then I use a microfiber wash cloth to wash the car again and then wax unless I need to polish any other areas. I am very anal about the paint so this would provide peace of mind for me so I personally think it would be worth it but to each their own.

You would need to do paint correction/prep for sure, especially if the car isn't brand new. There isn't much need to polish for a few years assuming the environment isn't overly aggressive on the paint and the sealant was applied correctly. The sealants are good at protecting against finer scratches and light swirls especially if you're diligent with safe washing and drying. If the paint gets deeper swirls, then you'll end up removing much of it with the cutting compound.

I suppose if you have no access to electricity to work on your car or don't have any desire to that work, this may be a good option. It's a lot of money though. You could buy some pretty decent car care gear and still pocket a mountain of money.

I've never gotten a good answer on how these sealants are warrantied by professional shops. How can they really tell it's there or not?

[Toxophilite]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

You would need to do paint correction/prep for sure, especially if the car isn't brand new. There isn't much need to polish for a few years assuming the environment isn't overly aggressive on the paint and the sealant was applied correctly. The sealants are good at protecting against finer scratches and light swirls especially if you're diligent with safe washing and drying. If the paint gets deeper swirls, then you'll end up removing much of it with the cutting compound.

I suppose if you have no access to electricity to work on your car or don't have any desire to that work, this may be a good option. It's a lot of money though. You could buy some pretty decent car care gear and still pocket a mountain of money.

I've never gotten a good answer on how these sealants are warrantied by professional shops. How can they really tell it's there or not?

Just got off the phone with the only detailer here where I live that offers C. Quartz. Their Finest is $1600USD. OUCH! I may have to hold off for now and just save up and then go there. That is very high for sure so I see you are right about the pricing. They do paint correction anyway for that price so if I do get swirls and stuff like that, it will be corrected by the time I save up enough to add it although maybe I am just overthinking it... for 1600, thats a good chunk of change to drop on non performance parts.

As for the sealant.. I have no idea lol maybe they use the same measurement materials that some use to measure paint/clear coat thickness and account for the added thickness of the sealant? I have no idea!

[Toxophilite]

You know.. as OCD as I am and as beautiful as this car looks with the coating. I am deciding to forgo this for now. The car is already at the edge of my budget so adding that much is just hard to swallow. I am jealous tho! Maybe in the future I will just get a clear bra installed on it to make sure it is covered from rock chips haha