[T4455]

Originally Posted by ctgilles

Flickering is normal because of the bulb test by the car. The current is very small but still high enough to activate LEDs. Just deactivate the self-test via coding (warm, kalt, LED)

So I compared the genuine U.S. CREE LED products with "CREE LED" products from AliExpress because they were 1/5th price and I'm always curious. Don't have much to say quality-wise: the finish is somewhat less but you can't see them so not an issue Still running them in my car but no quality issues up until now. Running the U.S. CREE LEDs in a 335i and same results.
So considering the bargain price

Same here with the pricing, deAutoKey is charging a lot and I myself was looking for something else, but my friends shopped on aliexpress and bought a CREE LED bulb and the results were what I expected, quality was not there on aliexpress and it was not as bright as the OSRAM by deAutoKey.

I am happy to buy something for more money if it is actually better and the support is good, so far it has been great, deAutoKey replied to my emails quickly and their lifetime warranty is great since the business is located in the US.

[Viffermike]

I just don't understand how a luxury manufacturer can justify incandescent brake lights in a vehicle that has (optional) adaptive HID headlights/hi-beams ... anyway ...

Highly interested in these; was going to order them from DeAutoKey for a GTI I was ordering before I learned I wouldn't get the car until late summer. Can someone confirm that coding will deactivate the self-test in US-spec models? Already budgeting for remote coding for my 228i M Sport when I get it in March ...

[Bimmer86]

Originally Posted by Viffermike

I just don't understand how a luxury manufacturer can justify incandescent brake lights in a vehicle that has (optional) adaptive HID headlights/hi-beams ... anyway ...

Highly interested in these; was going to order them from DeAutoKey for a GTI I was ordering before I learned I wouldn't get the car until late summer. Can someone confirm that coding will deactivate the self-test in US-spec models? Already budgeting for remote coding for my 228i M Sport when I get it in March ...

I saw that it is at least possible to disable the self-test for the turn signals in the F30's, assuming it's the same for the F22's but have not looked further into it. Also, coding is actually a lot simpler than it looks. You should look into it, took me longer to decide what I wanted to change than to do the actual coding. A $20 cable and a laptop and you're good to go, plus then you can change and play with the settings as often as you like.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by Bimmer86

I saw that it is at least possible to disable the self-test for the turn signals in the F30's, assuming it's the same for the F22's but have not looked further into it. Also, coding is actually a lot simpler than it looks. You should look into it, took me longer to decide what I wanted to change than to do the actual coding. A $20 cable and a laptop and you're good to go, plus then you can change and play with the settings as often as you like.

I assume it's possible as well, though the procedure isn't on the latest F22 "cheat sheet" I've seen from pikcachu here. I'll be inquiring about that on that thread in the coming days.

Well, coding it myself would cost me more than $200. How, you ask?
- I'm a Mac
- I'm an Air with an SSD with only 30GB of room left (E-Sys takes 45GB of space -- before a partition with Windows 7) meaning I'd need an external drive and Win7 at a minimum
- The more obvious solution: cheap refurb PC laptop with Win7 installed ($200), OBD cable ($20). But I just can't justify $220 for something I'll use for one thing.

I was surprised to learn that there are apparently no coders in the Dallas area ... but there are in Houston and Austin. Perfect excuse for a road trip in the new car, eh?

[Bimmer86]

Originally Posted by Viffermike

I assume it's possible as well, though the procedure isn't on the latest F22 "cheat sheet" I've seen from pikcachu here. I'll be inquiring about that on that thread in the coming days.

Well, coding it myself would cost me more than $200. How, you ask?
- I'm a Mac
- I'm an Air with an SSD with only 30GB of room left (E-Sys takes 45GB of space -- before a partition with Windows 7) meaning I'd need an external drive and Win7 at a minimum
- The more obvious solution: cheap refurb PC laptop with Win7 installed ($200), OBD cable ($20). But I just can't justify $220 for something I'll use for one thing.

I was surprised to learn that there are apparently no coders in the Dallas area ... but there are in Houston and Austin. Perfect excuse for a road trip in the new car, eh?

I think it's just that not as many people are testing out what works or posting what works on the F22's. You could definately look at the F30's cheat sheet as a reference and see if the changes will work on the F22's as well.

And yeah, coding is a bit more complicated with a virtual Windows environment. Though actually space shouldn't be an issue if you use the PSdZData Lite version (which is all you really need anyway unless you want to start flashing the ECU), should keep you under 7GB. And you can actually use the Windows 10 Technical Preview for free http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/preview-iso. Throw it all on a flash drive or SD card haha. Just something to think about.

[cbbplanet]

I'm actually going to be coding my car soon to disable this self test soon. I guess I'm lucky my friend codes BMW as a side job.

[Viffermike]

Originally Posted by cbbplanet

I'm actually going to be coding my car soon to disable this self test soon. I guess I'm lucky my friend codes BMW as a side job.

Let us (and pikcachu, who'll add it to the F22 Cheat Sheet) know if the E30 self-test coding fix works on the F22!

[cbbplanet]

Originally Posted by Viffermike

Let us (and pikcachu, who'll add it to the F22 Cheat Sheet) know if the E30 self-test coding fix works on the F22!

I'll find out. However, I believe he uses a different system (what BMW dealership uses) and the machine costed $3000. I'll ask him though, might be the same codes.

[Viffermike]

I posted on the coding subforum about the self-test. Pikcachu's response based on the E30 procedure:

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showp...&postcount=524

Anyone want to give it a shot and report back? (I don't have my car yet; just thinking ahead)

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by cbbplanet

I'll find out. However, I believe he uses a different system (what BMW dealership uses) and the machine costed $3000. I'll ask him though, might be the same codes.

Dealers can't do individual coding...

it has to be an option like enhanced BT to code 6NS

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by Viffermike

I posted on the coding subforum about the self-test. Pikcachu's response based on the E30 procedure:

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showp...&postcount=524

Anyone want to give it a shot and report back? (I don't have my car yet; just thinking ahead)

Also all the ones in red are in REM not FEM_BODY

[drivethemachine]

Could someone tell me the socket type for these bulbs?
I'm going to look around online for other options as well.
Also, I would prefer to install red turn signals instead of amber.

[cbbplanet]

Originally Posted by drivethemachine

Could someone tell me the socket type for these bulbs?
I'm going to look around online for other options as well.
Also, I would prefer to install red turn signals instead of amber.

I've tested and you can use white LEDs for red turn signals. The casing will change the color.

Rear turn signal is P21W AKA 1156 is the universal term

[drivethemachine]

Thanks, I just ordered a pair of 1156 (in red) on eBay for 7 bucks, that claim to be error free. At this price it's worth trying even with low expectations. Will take a few weeks to ship, but my car isn't even built yet....right now I'm just killing the wait time with shopping

[G4Z808]

Originally Posted by cbbplanet

I've tested and you can use white LEDs for red turn signals. The casing will change the color.

Rear turn signal is P21W AKA 1156 is the universal term

do you know what the common bulb number is for the fronts ? its shaped like a 1156 but the posts are at a angle from each other instead of direct across from each other

[cbbplanet]

Originally Posted by G4Z808

do you know what the common bulb number is for the fronts ? its shaped like a 1156 but the posts are at a angle from each other instead of direct across from each other

bau15s / 7507

[pikcachu]

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...&postcount=119

[G4Z808]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...&postcount=119

last week I changed everything to show led and turned off all the warm and cold monitoring. works so far

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by G4Z808

last week I changed everything to show led and turned off all the warm and cold monitoring. works so far

So what's the benefit of replacing them for LED's ?

Also what happens if the LED goes out... you don't get any notification?

[G4Z808]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

So what's the benefit of replacing them for LED's ?

Also what happens if the LED goes out... you don't get any notification?

nope, no notifications. and I wanted my reverse lights to be led instead of the halogens. I also replaced the turn signal bulbs, its now a deeper red and is instant flash instead of halogen fade

[cbbplanet]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

So what's the benefit of replacing them for LED's ?

Also what happens if the LED goes out... you don't get any notification?

Benefit is when I change lane, I have a lower risk of people not seeing my signal and changing lane same time as me. Mine is so bright that the freeway signs reflect even if i'm 400m away. Also, when I reverse in dark places, the bright reverse LED helps me see the backup camera better. Again, less risk of people not seeing me reverse. Too many blind people here.

If LED goes out on the front signal or reverse light, I can tell immediately just by looking in front or thru backup camera.

[T4455]

Still lovin' my LEDs!!

No there won't be any warning if your light goes out but you do not need one, with LEDs you will know if the light is out, it won't light up the entire road any longer. lol but I doubt these will ever go out, they last a long time.

I noticed that not only are they brighter they also light up more of the housing and have a wider beam angle vs a regular bulb, I noticed it at a meet I was at when I compared it with a non-LED car.