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2Addicts | BMW 2-Series forum Technical Topics N55 (M235i) Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Tuning 49k miles SEIZED MOTOR!! Motor replacement tips??

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      09-25-2019, 12:42 AM   #1
Cdsmith235i
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49k miles SEIZED MOTOR!! Motor replacement tips??

There's a long story here so prepare yourself:

2015 M235i Zf8 RWD
49k miles on the clock 3 months out of warranty time period at the time of failure.
Running DINAN stage 3, fmic,intake, exhaust no DP.
Oil changes every 5k miles with liqui molly 5w-40


After some spirited driving one day the car started making light ticking noise around 3k rpm I immediately parked the car and made an appointment with the local BMW dealership, the car sat for few weeks I live about 35 minutes from the dealership I was driving the car at very low rpm 1000-1500 the entire way vehicle suddenly surges I hear a belt squeal and motor completely does won't turn over. After dealing with the car not going into neutral for an hour on the side of the highway I finally get it to Bmw and they confirm the motor has seized. After excruciating months of battling BMW North America and the dealership they tell me to shove it and they will not be offering any assistance due to an independent shop doing oil changes (reputable local shop that holds the record for faster N54 in America), they deny the invoices and consider oil shavings in the motor to be an outside influence and an Act of god in their words. They did several maintenance items on the car during my ownership including oil filter housing, valve cover, full injector replacement, turbo oil lines and gave the car a clean bill of health 4K miles before motor failure. They never gave the car a true diagnosis besides metal shavings and seized I have no idea what actually caused the failure. so I'll inspect it when I swap the motor. Still don't know how they deny a complete motor failure at 49k miles and 3 months out of warranty! I've honestly lost brain cells taking this up the customer relations ladder.

I've come to the realization I'm on my own here after the whole ordeal. I plan on doing a swap with a used lower mileage motor I have access to a lift and will have some mechanics helping me as well as being inclined myself just never taken a motor as new as this. So here are my questions.

I've talked with a few motor builders and it's out of my budget being quoted anywhere from slighty upgraded to fully built at 15-25k.

I wanted to do a turbo/ fueling while I did the swap but holy crap it adds up and I don't want to be 15k into this and have another motor failure. I plan on switch to MHD and doing a custom tune with DP.

Reputable places to buy a replacement motor? I've got a quote from for $7500 at 30k miles with one year warranty. Too scared to buy an eBay motor.

Any tips for the actual swap there are zero DIY's out there on this, I see some special tools listed such as a engine from trans separator, on various repair data sources are these needed?

Is my turbo toast as well from the metal, how would I flush the system turbo/oil cooler?

I'll take any helpful tips or insight!
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      09-25-2019, 12:53 AM   #2
Pray for Mojo
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How long ago did they do the OFHG? Some of the F30/E90 N55 guys have had bearing failure after it was done. You should check the F30/E90 rod bearing threads on their boards, there's more info there. I'm shocked to see two people report failures in one day, especially with 52k on mine. Please let us know what you find out with yours, sorry for the shitty luck.
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      09-25-2019, 12:58 AM   #3
Cdsmith235i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pray for Mojo View Post
How long ago did they do the OFHG? Some of the F30/E90 guys have had bearing failure after it was done. You should check the F30/E90 rod bearing threads on their boards, there's more info there. I'm shocked to see two people report failures in one day, especially with 52k on mine.
Definitely scary especially with the extreme care I've taken of the car. It was probably 5-6 months before the failure. I've read into it but I doubt it would take that long to cause the failure if there was an issue.
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      09-25-2019, 01:07 AM   #4
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There's an engine building company out of Oklahoma that sells long blocks with warranty for $4k. https://www.ghassanautomotive.com/collections/all
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      09-25-2019, 01:55 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pray for Mojo View Post
There's an engine building company out of Oklahoma that sells long blocks with warranty for $4k. https://www.ghassanautomotive.com/collections/all
I've heard bad things about Ghassan from quite a few people, including a friend who had a ghassan motor fail and they wouldn't honor warranty.
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      09-26-2019, 04:51 PM   #6
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If you when into a dealership with a Dinan piggyback still installed and no catalyst, after your warranty expired; there is 1000% they won't help you with goodwill repair, on sheer principle.
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      09-27-2019, 02:13 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
If you when into a dealership with a Dinan piggyback still installed and no catalyst, after your warranty expired; there is 1000% they won't help you with goodwill repair, on sheer principal.
Car has always had a catalytic converter.
DINAN was removed. Although had been on during previous visits and they never mentioned it.
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      09-27-2019, 02:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdsmith235i View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
If you when into a dealership with a Dinan piggyback still installed and no catalyst, after your warranty expired; there is 1000% they won't help you with goodwill repair, on sheer principal.
Car has always had a catalytic converter.
DINAN was removed. Although had been on during previous visits and they never mentioned it.
I guess when you stated you're "Running DINAN stage 3, fmic,intake, exhaust no DP" in the present tense, I assume that was literal.

Doesn't matter anyway, an engine replacement is considered the largest of warranty claims and the field engineer BMW sends out would deny it for any possible engine/power related mods.

As you also stated, your warrant already expired, you're at their mercy to help.
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      09-27-2019, 06:38 AM   #9
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OP this just sucks all the way around. Typical BMW shying away to assist on this matter. Why is it that they seem to always wiggle out of it if you have serviced your vehicle any where except their so called "BMW Certified Dealer" shops. I'm bitching about a HPFP on my wifes 550 since I took it my indy. My warranty co said sorry this isnt the "main" fuel pump...I have 2! Cover it! Dealer wont reimburse me so we all take it up the ass. Just seems with all BMW reliability issues they find a way to not support the client. Why should it be so difficult with BMW? Anyway, enough bitching...good luck OP with your replacement engine. I hope this all works out for you.
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      09-27-2019, 11:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xi Beast View Post
OP this just sucks all the way around. Typical BMW shying away to assist on this matter. Why is it that they seem to always wiggle out of it if you have serviced your vehicle any where except their so called "BMW Certified Dealer" shops.
You can't blame BMW here. The car was pushing close to or over 400whp and 450wtq, substantially more than stock. BMW, like every other car maker, isn't in the business to support our personal power modification racing programs.

If I were to blow my motor, I'd source one from LKQ. They're a publicly-traded and reputable US parts reseller. I wouldn't try to do it myself given the level of coding required to get various system to begin dialogue with the DME. I'd find a good BMW indie shop with late model BMW experience. Pulling and swapping in an N55 isn't rocket science. Also, the oiling system is likely full of metal. I wouldn't reuse anything from the old motor, even the turbo assembly, oil lines, etc. unless you can disassemble it and clean it fully and verify the bearings are good.

As for rebuilding the current motor, unless you've got a ton of money, I wouldn't. The head and all those system is likely toast from the metal. Probably the only thing really salvageable is the block, crank, rods, and maybe pistons. The short blocks in these cars aren't the weak links. The block, rods (forged), crank (forged), and pistons are fine. The issue can be the rod bearings, especially with more power and especially if you beat on the motor without letting the oil get up to temp (about 10 minutes of driving) or hammering it at a low rpm while being in a tall gear. If you want a more powerful car, buy a more powerful one with more power for stock from the start.
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      10-11-2019, 06:59 AM   #11
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Gents i have always been under the impression once the motorplan/ warranty is over you on your own? ( well in south africa that is at least)
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