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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Should I sell or fix?



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      10-11-2016, 03:26 PM   #45
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If You really love your BMW, first, I would get me a $1500 Honda cash, so you can have reliable transportation in the meantime. Work two jobs if you have to and save some money, find good deals online on injectors, turbos etc...do some research and learn how to work on It and et it be your weekend car.
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      10-11-2016, 04:39 PM   #46
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Ah kids at my school gave me shit for wanting to mod my 128, "why didn't you just get a 135 if you're gonna mod?" because I OWN my car buddy.
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      10-11-2016, 04:48 PM   #47
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I think your looking at:

$1600 for injectors - totally DIY-able
$800-900 for a refurb on your turbos from Turbo Lab of America

Oil consumption? Do you mean oil leak?

It looks like your sort of stuck with the car for now, unless you really want to take a big loss in order to sell it or trade it in.

If you fix it, the car should run well for another 100k less minus small stuff like suspension related items.
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      10-17-2016, 06:10 PM   #48
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I would highly recommend investing in Microsoft Excel, make a basic spreadsheet and you'll realize how financially unfeasible selling your 335i and getting an m3 really is.
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      10-18-2016, 03:06 AM   #49
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Fix it and enjoy it. Don't get the m3 at this point in time.
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      10-18-2016, 05:05 AM   #50
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Dang, that whole situation sucks. I'd fix your car and keep driving it. I wouldn't be surprised by a 5-6k bill but that's a heck of a lot cheaper than an m3 and your car would be fresh afterwards. It's a sunk cost either way, as it's probably worth less than 12k even after the work. Good luck!
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      10-18-2016, 07:42 AM   #51
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Fix it, live within your means and stop worrying about what others think about you.
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      10-19-2016, 03:23 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brocklanders View Post
This is a very easy dilemma to fix, two cars. Then you can fix your toy at your leisure. I am on my fourth BMW in twelve years, I will never again own one without a warranty as my primary transportation. There are literally thousands of practical, who gives a shit, vehicles out there for $3-5k that will last a few years.
I would do exactly this. Grab a cheaper car and wrench on the bimmer at your leisure. Heck, I've got a late model car just for this reason so that if the bimmer does break that I can take my time and fix the problem vs scrambling for transportation.

I've never owned a BMW before but with help from this forum and youtube i've been able to replace my brakes, door lock actuators, intakes, intercooler, coils and sparkplugs. Next up is that pesky thermostat.
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      10-19-2016, 03:43 PM   #53
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You guys are not telling him/her what they want to hear.

OP, this is what you can do to make it work. You say you're under the water with negative equity? Trade up for a new M4. BMW will be happy to tack that $6K of negative equity toward your new purchase and now, instead of owing $12K, you now owe $80K for the next 5-6 years.

Then go lease a Fiat 500e/Chevy Volt/VW eGolf/whatever 'lectric car company that's desperate to get rid of their stock for the next 3 years. I saw a Fiat 500e deal in Los Angeles for $60 a month. With a $2,500 down payment that California will refund you (via California Clean Air Vehicle Rebate) and a $7,500 cap deduction applied to the car, care of Obama. Drive the 'lectric around. Don't drive the M4 unless you absolutely have to. My daily commute is about 70 miles per day, and on any given month my electric equivalent to the gasoline bill is about $30. At $60 + $30 your monthly cost to operate and commute is $90. At $3.00 per gallon, and averaging 30 miles per gallon, my monthly cost to operate a fairly fuel efficient car is around $250. Just on gas alone I save about $160 per month, more than enough to offset.

Put that $160 a month into paying off the M4 in 6 years. Stretch it to 7 if you have to, and when the lease run out just see if you can find another kick-@ss lease on a 'lectric. As long as California/Federal/Car companies are subsidizing the cost to own an electric, you'll find a deal somewhere.

As long as you're putting MINIMAL miles on the M4, by the time it's 10 years old (and you've gone through 3 electric cars), let's say you've only averaged 800 miles a year, for a total of 8,000 miles on the M4. Sell it to Enthusiast Auto Group for $80,000 and watch them turn it around and sell it for $120,000 for a special "barn find" ultra low mileage M4. Or sell it yourself as a one of a kind, like new M4.

Bam. All your financial whoas out the door.

(p.s.: for those of you without a single funny bone in your body...This was all a joke)
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      10-19-2016, 04:01 PM   #54
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^ this..do this OP...BEST ADVICE EVER!
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      10-19-2016, 04:01 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
This thread

Ah kids at my school gave me shit for wanting to mod my 128, "why didn't you just get a 135 if you're gonna mod?" because I OWN my car buddy.
But I thought people buying stuff they can't actually afford is the foundation on which the American economy is built?
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      10-19-2016, 04:03 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the dope steez View Post
But I thought people buying stuff they can't actually afford is the foundation on which the American economy is built?
NO NO NO NO!!!!

It's buy stuff you cannot afford with OTHER people's money.
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      10-19-2016, 04:05 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
You guys are not telling him/her what they want to hear.

OP, this is what you can do to make it work. You say you're under the water with negative equity? Trade up for a new M4. BMW will be happy to tack that $6K of negative equity toward your new purchase and now, instead of owing $12K, you now owe $80K for the next 5-6 years.

Then go lease a Fiat 500e/Chevy Volt/VW eGolf/whatever 'lectric car company that's desperate to get rid of their stock for the next 3 years. I saw a Fiat 500e deal in Los Angeles for $60 a month. With a $2,500 down payment that California will refund you (via California Clean Air Vehicle Rebate) and a $7,500 cap deduction applied to the car, care of Obama. Drive the 'lectric around. Don't drive the M4 unless you absolutely have to. My daily commute is about 70 miles per day, and on any given month my electric equivalent to the gasoline bill is about $30. At $60 + $30 your monthly cost to operate and commute is $90. At $3.00 per gallon, and averaging 30 miles per gallon, my monthly cost to operate a fairly fuel efficient car is around $250. Just on gas alone I save about $160 per month, more than enough to offset.

Put that $160 a month into paying off the M4 in 6 years. Stretch it to 7 if you have to, and when the lease run out just see if you can find another kick-@ss lease on a 'lectric. As long as California/Federal/Car companies are subsidizing the cost to own an electric, you'll find a deal somewhere.

As long as you're putting MINIMAL miles on the M4, by the time it's 10 years old (and you've gone through 3 electric cars), let's say you've only averaged 800 miles a year, for a total of 8,000 miles on the M4. Sell it to Enthusiast Auto Group for $80,000 and watch them turn it around and sell it for $120,000 for a special "barn find" ultra low mileage M4. Or sell it yourself as a one of a kind, like new M4.

Bam. All your financial whoas out the door.

(p.s.: for those of you without a single funny bone in your body...This was all a joke)


LMAO!!!

Damn and I was taking notes..
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      10-19-2016, 04:06 PM   #58
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I have a set of injectors that will work for your car cheap. too bad you don't live near me I would check / change problem injector and code it for you. $300.00
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      10-19-2016, 07:05 PM   #59
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I need more HACK in my life.

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      10-20-2016, 08:36 AM   #60
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