[shark715]

Todd, from the way you describe the damage, sounds like Wheel Collision will be able to fix them for sure, and they do great work. Never mind the pictures of the women in bathing suits on their website (I think it's the owner just exercising his freedom of expression), when you see the equipment they have in their shop I think you will be as impressed as I've been. Good luck on Saturday.

[todd hollander]

Thanks.

[mike@tpc]

I can only say for the M235i as the original post referred to. I saw Ronal on the back of mine when I powdercoated them.

[todd hollander]

Well, she is riding smoothly again, 3 of 4 wheels were bent. I hit the pothole with the passenger side wheels, I don't remember hitting anything else with the drivers side rear! In any case the passenger side rear was the only one that required heat to fix so I suppose there will be some cosmetic damage to the inside barrel, but as these wheels are so dusty I can't see it now.
$450 for all three, including rebalancing and road force testing.
I need low dust pads and forged wheels...........

[shark715]

Originally Posted by todd hollander

Well, she is riding smoothly again, 3 of 4 wheels were bent. I hit the pothole with the passenger side wheels, I don't remember hitting anything else with the drivers side rear! In any case the passenger side rear was the only one that required heat to fix so I suppose there will be some cosmetic damage to the inside barrel, but as these wheels are so dusty I can't see it now.
$450 for all three, including rebalancing and road force testing.
I need low dust pads and forged wheels...........

Todd, were you happy with their shop?

[todd hollander]

Originally Posted by shark715

Todd, were you happy with their shop?

Yes, I was able to express my concerns about being extra careful as not to chip the caliper paint, wheels etc. and the tech was very reassuring. All went well but I was surprised that they didn't use a torque wrench to fasten the wheels. The techs explanation was they recommend a torque check after a couple of hundred miles. There are no scratches from the tire dismount and remount, overall a good experience. As luck would have it, there was a meeting of the Allentown British Car Club this am at the shop and I was able to see MG's, Jag E types, Triumph TR4 and 3's, bringing back a flood of memories of my MGB and MGC when I was in college, a long time ago. Of course one car was running rough, probably as a result of the "Prince of Darkness" (Lucas Electrics)

[shark715]

Originally Posted by todd hollander

Yes, I was able to express my concerns about being extra careful as not to chip the caliper paint, wheels etc. and the tech was very reassuring. All went well but I was surprised that they didn't use a torque wrench to fasten the wheels. The techs explanation was they recommend a torque check after a couple of hundred miles. There are no scratches from the tire dismount and remount, overall a good experience. As luck would have it, there was a meeting of the Allentown British Car Club this am at the shop and I was able to see MG's, Jag E types, Triumph TR4 and 3's, bringing back a flood of memories of my MGB and MGC when I was in college, a long time ago. Of course one car was running rough, probably as a result of the "Prince of Darkness" (Lucas Electrics)

Sounds great, reminds me of my friend's TR3 in high school that needed those side draft carbs adjusted every time the weather changed :-) I don't get the lack of using a torque wrench as something could get bent in the interim if overtight. If i were you I would re-torque the wheels today and again in a week or two....interesting.

[mike@tpc]

this is what happened when I hit a 6" granite rock in the dark with our old 3 series

[todd hollander]

Originally Posted by mike@tpc

this is what happened when I hit a 6" granite rock in the dark with our old 3 series

Holy Shit!

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by mike@tpc

this is what happened when I hit a 6" granite rock in the dark with our old 3 series

hotmelt glue to the rescue

[caycep]

I just picked up a nail in my right rear Michelin PSS (already!!!)...hopefully repairable but tomorrows a sunday....hopefully it'll hold till Monday!

[JibHonk]

Greetings from macungie Todd, Havent seen your car around yet. Mine is hard to miss. Red wheels and mineral gray metallic.

[shark715]

Originally Posted by JibHonk

Greetings from macungie Todd, Havent seen your car around yet. Mine is hard to miss. Red wheels and mineral gray metallic.

Todd stopped driving it to avoid damaging the wheels again :-)

[todd hollander]

Originally Posted by JibHonk

Greetings from macungie Todd, Havent seen your car around yet. Mine is hard to miss. Red wheels and mineral gray metallic.

I haven't seen ANY 2'ers on the road around here!
Red wheels? which brand? VMR?

[todd hollander]

Originally Posted by shark715

Todd stopped driving it to avoid damaging the wheels again :-)

On the contrary, now, with low dust pads I am driving more and washing less.

[chrisa1]

I bent both Left side wheels going through a moderated sized pothole. Three weeks later, hit another on the right side and bent both right wheels. Never had this kind of thing happen on any previous Bimmer. M235i has the standard 18 in wheel package.

[x233]

Should we start a separate thread that would help us share experience on the toughest wheels possible for our cars?

Is there even such a thing as a 18-inch wheel tough enough to survive potholes and other impacts?

My heart aches as I bend another wheel and this happens regularly. In fact, there hasn't been a single 18-inch wheel on a 2er and other vehicles with a low-profile tire that I didn't bend on my roads. Cast or forged, cheap or expensive, they all go to hell with the frequency of about 1 wheel per 3-4 weeks if you have fun.

I've had a couple of sets of Enkeis - gone, Speedlines - gone, some other cast wheels in between - all gone, 2 sets of forged track-spec HREs - gone. In fact, I am quite disappointed with HREs, they look fantastic and ride nice but they simply do not make an impression of a strong wheel and cannot take any hit or pothole at all.

I still have 2 sets of 17-inch Forgeline 3-piece GA3 wheels (performance series) and those are the only wheels you can literally throw anything at, good after 2 years of serious abuse. Other 17-inch wheels failed.

Looks like 3-piece forged wheels with a step lip and rolled inner barrel might be the best bet (at least in my experience). GA3's max load is 2100 lbs (which is more than most by a margin). When you look at that wheel in person, the spokes, the design, the fat lips, how solid everything is... next to HRE... you don't even have to read the stickers and tech details to know which one will hold.

The problem with Forgline 3-piece is it's probably going to look goofy on a 2er (or maybe I just don't have the imagination to see it right), the fronts, the spokes are probably going to be flush with the outer lip at best (to accommodate the break calipers), they'll probably fit on M-sport breaks but not on M-performance breaks, and yes, they're expensive.

I almost cashed out for a set of CCW C15. That will probably look good on our car, relatively cheap as far as custom-made forged wheels go, Corsair series wheels have max load rating of 3000 lbs (on paper at least that looks tough), they seem to have a good reputation among those who track for being able to take some serious hits. I am a bit apprehensive, though, about the fact they are monoblock and have a passive inner of the barrel (that's what typically gets bent).

But... for now I decided to save some money and ordered a set of basic BBS CH-Rs but really don't hold my breath about their fate.

OK, so, if others can chime in and give other clues, their experiences with better (tougher) wheels that'll be very interesting. Looks like they may be an audience here, just like me, looking for really tough wheels, something you don't have to fix or replace all the time.

[moldcad]

Guys - ANY wheel will give up if the impact is "focused" on their inner side. Just because the spokes are closer to the outside rim, the inside one must be softer. So going over a pothole (or other source of impact), it's a hit or miss game which side of the wheel will take the greatest impact; I personally did curb the outside of my both front wheels (my fault - I was fishtailing on a public road with curbs). Even though the impact was as loud as hell, and I reared the wheel is totally destroyed - in both cases it ended up with a small dent in the outside lip; the wheels were not bent at all!

On the other hand, driving my (now sold) 528xi I was pushed away from the asphalt by a reckless truck driver coming from the opposite direction - and while returning back to the pavement from the soft and low shoulder, I heard a very low-noise scrub. During my next visit to the service when they elevated the car, I saw that soft inside lip bent like hell! Both front and rear wheels on the right side had to be replaced...