[BM235iW]

Originally Posted by amw896

I'm coming from 2 Lexus cars (2nd gen IS models) which were terrible in terms of reliability! I've owned my 2015 235i for almost a year without "almost" the slightest of problems. The only issue I'm having is that I get this weird buzzing / rattling at idle from the frontish area of the car. I think it might be the exhaust flaps but haven't verified yet.

After 1+ year of M235i ownership I suddenly started to experience a buzz/rattle in the dash area, it was impossible to locate. On a whim I had the "Active Sound" feature removed, no more buzz/rattle. My car is quieter inside the cab, it's easier to converse with passengers and now I can experience the true exhaust tone of my car!

[BM235iW]

Originally Posted by amw896

unfortunately no, the car is storage now until April so I can't really get one until then. Mine you can only hear at idle and when I blip the throttle slightly. It almost sounds like loose change or a loose screw or something. Its kind of annoying but hasn't led to anything or got worse. The dealer couldn't find anything wrong but I'm going to escalate when it's back on the road. Stay tuned!!

I was experiencing this same buzz/vibration sounds around the dash area. Remove the "Active Sound" feature and the buzz/rattle is gone. The car, for me, is much more enjoyable without the phony exhaust noise inside the cabin.

[amw896]

Originally Posted by BM235iW

I was experiencing this same buzz/vibration sounds around the dash area. Remove the "Active Sound" feature and the buzz/rattle is gone. The car, for me, is much more enjoyable without the phony exhaust noise inside the cabin.

Nice! I plan on coding this out as well when I get my tune. Unfortunately, my buzzing is definitely external and it sounds like it's coming from right under the driver's side when I just slightly blip the throttle. Loose bolt or something.

[StarMan]

38k on my 2014 and only had one non-mechanical issue

For whatever reason the left door speaker and tweeter stopped working. Turned out to be the amp. Luckily replaced under warranty.

[Maynard]

Is this the exhaust valve issue that is so common? - some are having this fixed/replaced fairly routinely.

[kindofblue]

I've had my 2016 228i convertible for just over a year now and zero issues with it. Honestly I think it's the best built car I've ever driven in my almost 50 years of driving.

[BentZero]

I've had Zero for over a year now. The only issue I've had is that the tires tend to loose air. It's not consistent and it's not always the same tire. At one point the pressure got down to 4psi. :/ I just keep change with me at all times just in case I need to make a quick stop. I hate that the car goes into limp (aka comfort ) mode when the pressure is below specs.

[Kolyan2k]

Originally Posted by BentZero

I've had Zero for over a year now. The only issue I've had is that the tires tend to loose air. It's not consistent and it's not always the same tire. At one point the pressure got down to 4psi. :/ I just keep change with me at all times just in case I need to make a quick stop. I hate that the car goes into limp (aka comfort ) mode when the pressure is below specs.

Dont have this issue even when temps jump from 80s to 40s. I think I inflated 35-36f 38-39r cold, with normal operating temps psi jump to 39-40f 43-44r

[ianp622]

Originally Posted by BentZero

I've had Zero for over a year now. The only issue I've had is that the tires tend to loose air. It's not consistent and it's not always the same tire. At one point the pressure got down to 4psi. :/ I just keep change with me at all times just in case I need to make a quick stop. I hate that the car goes into limp (aka comfort ) mode when the pressure is below specs.

4 PSI? If you drove on that you've probably destroyed that tire. I would get a new one.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by ianp622

4 PSI? If you drove on that you've probably destroyed that tire. I would get a new one.

LOL. 4psi low is not going to destroy a tire unless you're running it in the 20psi range. Some BMW owners crack me up buying into the Ultimate Driving Machine hype.

[DF]

Just dropped it off. The metal part at the top of the fuel filler neck is stuck. They have to replace it

[ianp622]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

LOL. 4psi low is not going to destroy a tire unless you're running it in the 20psi range. Some BMW owners crack me up buying into the Ultimate Driving Machine hype.

He said "down to 4 psi", not "down 4 psi".

[BentZero]

Originally Posted by ianp622

4 PSI? If you drove on that you've probably destroyed that tire. I would get a new one.

Thing is that it didn't look that low. I don't have run flats and the tire was by no means flat. :/ That day there was a huge swing in temps, so I'm going to attribute it to that. I honestly think that there's just something wrong with the sensors, but i can't reproduce it enough to get it covered.

[BEM-S4]

Originally Posted by BentZero

Thing is that it didn't look that low. I don't have run flats and the tire was by no means flat. :/ That day there was a huge swing in temps, so I'm going to attribute it to that. I honestly think that there's just something wrong with the sensors, but i can't reproduce it enough to get it covered.

That has to be a sensor if it didn't look flat. You drove it and it was handling even borderline normally?

Only error proof sensor in the car is your own head, you've driven enough you know when to ignore what the car is telling you. For things like tires at least, I wouldn't ignore an oil warning light

Assuming the sensors are working properly that is one nice thing about having the pressure value and not just "low" so you can see if you're a bit low on a cold day it's nothing to really worry about. I mean I would check it, but if you're doing 60 on the highway (this has happened to me) there's no need to do something unsafe / emergency style if you have that peace of mind.

[BentZero]

Originally Posted by BEM-S4

That has to be a sensor if it didn't look flat. You drove it and it was handling even borderline normally?

Only error proof sensor in the car is your own head, you've driven enough you know when to ignore what the car is telling you. For things like tires at least, I wouldn't ignore an oil warning light

Assuming the sensors are working properly that is one nice thing about having the pressure value and not just "low" so you can see if you're a bit low on a cold day it's nothing to really worry about. I mean I would check it, but if you're doing 60 on the highway (this has happened to me) there's no need to do something unsafe / emergency style if you have that peace of mind.

Car felt fine which is why it was weird. I didn't drive far or fast on the tire though since the gas station is close.

[rjroch]

Originally Posted by DaveM235i

Just over 1 1/2 years of ownership from new - 2015 M235i. Awesome car and so much fun. For all the issues my car has had, i forgive it when I jump in and have fun. Issues (so far) include:
Harmonic Balancer failed (early pickup, which saved the engine)
Alternator failed
Exhaust flap rattled - exhaust replaced
Rough idle on cold start - fixed apparently through programming but just started again and will have to go back - i suspect it's not the programming!

All under warranty and fixed, BMW Australia looked after me with loan cars etc and fairly quick turnaround times. Doesn't bother me as they are wearing the costs and i have wheels to get around.

These issues can happen with any brand new car - i just got lucky and purchased the one with issues. As said, all forgiven when i jump in and drive hard. Just buy one with some warranty left and get a final end of warranty check report to pick up any issues for BMW to fix before it's handed over to you to cover costs. I have done this with all previous cars and it is amazing what gets picked up.

Out of curiosity, what were the symptoms when your alternator failed? I just had to take my car in. Symptoms were airbag light turning on, stereo popping, then a check engine light. Dealer says it's reporting overvoltage condition on 5 separate occasions, lining up with when I experienced those symptoms.

I'm hoping it's the alternator, but am afraid it could be wiring.

[RotorOver]

Originally Posted by BentZero

Car felt fine which is why it was weird. I didn't drive far or fast on the tire though since the gas station is close.

Bent- I had to add air with temp swings this past winter. The MPSS tires don't like the near or below freezing weather. You know the electric compressor that comes with the flat kit can be used to refill saving you a few quarters and time/worry getting to a service station.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by ianp622

He said "down to 4 psi", not "down 4 psi".

My mistake

I do have a hard time believing that a tire would stay mounted to a rim with only 4psi if one were to drive around on it. The thing would certainly look quite flat and I do agree, driving any distance on a overly low tire will very likely damage the sidewall and at the least, compromise the sealing bead.

[DaveM235i]

Originally Posted by rjroch

Out of curiosity, what were the symptoms when your alternator failed? I just had to take my car in. Symptoms were airbag light turning on, stereo popping, then a check engine light. Dealer says it's reporting overvoltage condition on 5 separate occasions, lining up with when I experienced those symptoms.

I'm hoping it's the alternator, but am afraid it could be wiring.

Sorry to hear about your issues - BMW replaced my harmonic balancer and started the car up and the alternator failed - they had the car at the time so i have no idea what happened. They just said they have to replace it.

[Jeff_2015_228i]

I am days away from my '15 228i xdrive vert's 2 year anniversary. Currently at 30,000 miles. The car has been absolutely flawless. My only issue is wanting to drive it all the time.

Also have a CPO '12 528i xdrive. It has also been flawless. Over 50,000 miles. But, after reading the N20 timing chain/oil pump failure/engine blow thread on the other forum the other day has me concerned as it has the old plastic guide design etc. that are likely the cause. Confirmed with service dept that it wasn't "upgraded" with the new part prior to our purchase. Dealership will be checking that condition on my next visit. I will say the older 528 engine is loader than my 228.

Forums can make one very paranoid though. I read many car forums (Dodge, VW, Ford, Chevy) and 99% of the time people post because they had an issue, need help, or frankly did stupid crap that caused their own problems.

Just as others have stated, not exactly a scientific sampling methodology... but I am still going to "encourage" my dealership to replace the timing related parts to the new version since this was a gen1 era N20.

[fbsm]

Just my own opinion but the shift in recommended service intervals is a significant factor in reducing the longevity of many components.

With that said, most cars today will go 100k with nothing but engine oil changes.........but stuff probably wont be pretty at 100k with that sort of PM schedule

I have some hunches that we'll see if come to fruit on my next oil change and oil analysis

the assertion that the rear diff, tranny and t-case are lifetime fills is a silly one

Not sure what the correct interval for a change is but a fluid change early on can only be of benefit in allowing for the removal of debris associated with break in.

I suspect I'll be keeping this B58 2 series for an extended period and will perform maint with that intention in mind

Engine got a 1200 mi change and at 6k everything will get drained and refilled (rear diff w/lsd, MT, Engine)

Maybe a flush of the brakes too

[Smokester]

2 years with absolutely no issues. 230i on order now.