[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by Pparana

Yes, it is what I installed, don't forget the diff bushings, any f 3 series bushings will be compatible, many companies don't list under 2 series.

Thanks buddy!

Yea, I grabbed the Derlin diff Bushings from Turner when I ordered my LCA's. Was contemplating getting them for the subframe too but thought it'd be a bit raw?

My final suspension setup (eta June) will consist of:

KW 3-way Clubsports
M4 LCA's/TS's
Hotchkis F&R sways, with Hotchkis links
Superpro rear subframe bushings
Powerflex rear LCA bushings
Derlin diff bushings

Next is brakes..

[Pparana]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Thanks buddy!

Yea, I grabbed the Derlin diff Bushings from Turner when I ordered my LCA's. Was contemplating getting them for the subframe too but thought it'd be a bit raw?

My final suspension setup (eta June) will consist of:

KW 3-way Clubsports
M4 LCA's/TS's
Hotchkis F&R sways, with Hotchkis links
Superpro rear subframe bushings
Powerflex rear LCA bushings
Derlin diff bushings

Next is brakes..

you might want to consider changing some of the rear suspension arms with the megan racing ones, they are much better and fully adjustable. They have joints similar to the m3 lcas kind of a monoball encapsulated in rubber. They are very similar to what is on the m235ir

I was tempted to go solid aluminum on the mounts, but was not sure if the subframe would take the abuse.

[Pparana]

Originally Posted by Anthony235

I will probably stick with the OEM sway, but would like to do the end links one day. I'll be getting my next set of tires soon and I'll do a new alignment spec and corner balance as well. I think the chassis on this car is stiff enough to warrant a corner balance (if you track the car). Like my old s2000. Not so much my nismo 370z.

I think sway bar is dependent on staggered or square setup, and springs/ride height. On square with pretty soft springs I run a stiffer rear, and slightly stiffer front. Staggered would completely change that equation.

Sways are a good upgrade if you get multiple holes on the bar and have the subframes dropped or out for something else.

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by Pparana

you might want to consider changing some of the rear suspension arms with the megan racing ones, they are much better and fully adjustable. They have joints similar to the m3 lcas kind of a monoball encapsulated in rubber. They are very similar to what is on the m235ir

I was tempted to go solid aluminum on the mounts, but was not sure if the subframe would take the abuse.

Thanks bud, will look into those. I saw the iR units and yea, another 4-5k lol. I'm at the point with the build where I gotta turn the tap off, but as things wear and move forward I'll most likely always uprate my parts as opposed to sticking with oem. Gonna focus on some brake mods, and start driving this car more!

Got all of the rear bushings ordered up yesterday from a Canadian retailer, ETA 3 weeks, so right on schedule for the June tear down. It's all happening one shot (the suspension work), so if I'm in there now I'm going to get it all done. With the exception of future rear LCA upgrades

[Pparana]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Thanks bud, will look into those. I saw the iR units and yea, another 4-5k lol. I'm at the point with the build where I gotta turn the tap off, but as things wear and move forward I'll most likely always uprate my parts as opposed to sticking with oem. Gonna focus on some brake mods, and start driving this car more!

Got all of the rear bushings ordered up yesterday from a Canadian retailer, ETA 3 weeks, so right on schedule for the June tear down. It's all happening one shot (the suspension work), so if I'm in there now I'm going to get it all done. With the exception of future rear LCA upgrades

I would look at the rear toe arms and upper camber arms for the rear, With the drop in ride height with coil overs this will allow you to get back to a stockish geometry with the camber curve set the way you want.

This removes a lot of the dynamic toe out when the suspension compresses. Also the stock arms are very weak, designed to break in an accident, but under additional stress from the modifications can cause unwanted flex.

If your going to have the car aligned, and corner balanced, do it all at once, otherwise, it will need to be done again.

[m3cmm]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

My final suspension setup (eta June) will consist of:

KW 3-way Clubsports
M4 LCA's/TS's
Hotchkis F&R sways, with Hotchkis links
Superpro rear subframe bushings
Powerflex rear LCA bushings
Derlin diff bushings

Next is brakes..

We'll have similar set ups except the rear/diff bushings and I'm running Dinan sways. Should have done the bushings when I did the sways but didn't know better at the time. I also have a BimmerWorld bearing kit for the M4 TS that will be installed.

Did you order the Clubsports yet? I ordered mine back in March and they were supposed to be installed two weeks ago but they still have not completed the build in Germany.

What wheel/tire set up are you planning to run?

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by m3cmm

We'll have similar set ups except the rear/diff bushings and I'm running Dinan sways. Should have done the bushings when I did the sways but didn't know better at the time. I also have a BimmerWorld bearing kit for the M4 TS that will be installed.

Did you order the Clubsports yet? I ordered mine back in March and they were supposed to be installed two weeks ago but they still have not completed the build in Germany.

What wheel/tire set up are you planning to run?

Awesome, seems like a common recipe here

Have not installed the CS's, yet, but have them in hand. Grabbed the 3-Way CS's off of iND for a STEAL of a price here in the classifieds, and had Ryan order the EDC cancellation kit for me, as I wanted plug and play with no coding. Should have them installed in June. ETA on the EDC kit is late May..

As for wheels, Apex ARC-08 18x8.5 square w/ 235/40R18 Cup2's. Next will be R compound tires, not sure which ones yet...

Which Clubsports did you go with?

D

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by Pparana

I would look at the rear toe arms and upper camber arms for the rear, With the drop in ride height with coil overs this will allow you to get back to a stockish geometry with the camber curve set the way you want.

This removes a lot of the dynamic toe out when the suspension compresses. Also the stock arms are very weak, designed to break in an accident, but under additional stress from the modifications can cause unwanted flex.

If your going to have the car aligned, and corner balanced, do it all at once, otherwise, it will need to be done again.

Took a loot at the Meagan Racing units, you can do the entire rear end for about $6-700.. It's very enticing! I've never used their products, how are they among the masses?

[m3cmm]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Awesome, seems like a common recipe here

Was referring to the Clubsport / F8x Control Arm combo. Seems like the clubsport and wider tire fitment on the F22 chassis is relatively undocumented. Anthony235 has shared a lot about his ClubSport install but he doesn't have the F8x parts.

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Have not installed the CS's, yet, but have them in hand. Grabbed the 3-Way CS's off of iND for a STEAL of a price here in the classifieds, and had Ryan order the EDC cancellation kit for me, as I wanted plug and play with no coding. Should have them installed in June. ETA on the EDC kit is late May..

As for wheels, Apex ARC-08 18x8.5 square w/ 235/40R18 Cup2's. Next will be R compound tires, not sure which ones yet...

Which Clubsports did you go with?

D

I also will have the 3 ways. Awesome you got a deal. I'm currently running 17x8 with 245 RS3s. I need new tires, and realize that I need to make some adjustments to make the ClubSports work...just not sure what to do. Do I buy a bigger/wider wheel to run 255s, or stick with my 17s and get another set of 245s? Sounds like 17s may not fit due to the external reservoir in the CSs. Also sounds like a 255 tire can be challenging due to the lower perch of the CS and I don't really want to swap helper springs.

Apologies for being off topic...

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by m3cmm

Was referring to the Clubsport / F8x Control Arm combo. Seems like the clubsport and wider tire fitment on the F22 chassis is relatively undocumented. Anthony235 has shared a lot about his ClubSport install but he doesn't have the F8x parts.



I also will have the 3 ways. Awesome you got a deal. I'm currently running 17x8 with 245 RS3s. I need new tires, and realize that I need to make some adjustments to make the ClubSports work...just not sure what to do. Do I buy a bigger/wider wheel to run 255s, or stick with my 17s and get another set of 245s? Sounds like 17s may not fit due to the external reservoir in the CSs. Also sounds like a 255 tire can be challenging due to the lower perch of the CS and I don't really want to swap helper springs.

Apologies for being off topic...

No worries. I haven't looked into my next tire setup, but 255 would be nice, and I'd have the adjust-ability to do so. I would be okay with 235/40 square, too. Gotta see what comes down the pipeline for tires in the next 12 months and make a decision..

Maybe Anthony, Pparana have more input on tires?

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Took a loot at the Meagan Racing units, you can do the entire rear end for about $6-700.. It's very enticing! I've never used their products, how are they among the masses?

I had megan coilovers for a few years in my s2k. Tracked pretty heavy and never had an issue with them. Probably the lowest tier brand I would go with. Come out of the same factory as the low end Apexi coilovers.

Not familiar with their suspension arms though, but if they are the same quality as the coilovers I would be happy with them. I used to run full front and rear suspension arms and pieces from SPL on my 370z. Not sure if they do anything for BMW though. If they do they will be considerbly more expensive than the megan pieces. Just be wary of any potential maintenance requirements of the ball joints, bearings, etc.

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

No worries. I haven't looked into my next tire setup, but 255 would be nice, and I'd have the adjust-ability to do so. I would be okay with 235/40 square, too. Gotta see what comes down the pipeline for tires in the next 12 months and make a decision..

Maybe Anthony, Pparana have more input on tires?

What specifically on tires? I've some experience with R comps and various street class tires.

Warning that the more camber you have to run to get your setup to work the more you will go through tires.

Toe has the biggest effect on tire wear, but camber will determine how even the wear is across the tire.

I have worn through the inside of the RE71s already, but that is because I daily them with aggressive camber (~5k miles and ~3 hours of track time). I'm going to try and change my front camber from 3 to 2.5 when I do my new tires soon. I think I can do that with the RE71. If I go with the new RS4 I may not be able to as it's a wide 255 compared to the RE71.

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by Anthony235

I had megan coilovers for a few years in my s2k. Tracked pretty heavy and never had an issue with them. Probably the lowest tier brand I would go with. Come out of the same factory as the low end Apexi coilovers.

Not familiar with their suspension arms though, but if they are the same quality as the coilovers I would be happy with them. I used to run full front and rear suspension arms and pieces from SPL on my 370z. Not sure if they do anything for BMW though. If they do they will be considerbly more expensive than the megan pieces. Just be wary of any potential maintenance requirements of the ball joints, bearings, etc.

Thanks for the feedback, I think I'll give em a go!

Originally Posted by Anthony235

What specifically on tires? I've some experience with R comps and various street class tires.

Warning that the more camber you have to run to get your setup to work the more you will go through tires.

Toe has the biggest effect on tire wear, but camber will determine how even the wear is across the tire.

I have worn through the inside of the RE71s already, but that is because I daily them with aggressive camber (~5k miles and ~3 hours of track time). I'm going to try and change my front camber from 3 to 2.5 when I do my new tires soon. I think I can do that with the RE71. If I go with the new RS4 I may not be able to as it's a wide 255 compared to the RE71.

More or less feedback on available 2-series tire sizes among the different brands. I remember a few guys going with 235/40, 245/35, and your 255/35 between the RE71's and the Nitto's. I don't have a lot of experience with R compounds to make an educated decision on fitment for this car, but that's what I'd like to go for next..

Best bang for buck on size/brand/compound for 18x8.5-9" category that fits with our configs ? Cheers as always

D

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Thanks for the feedback, I think I'll give em a go!




More or less feedback on available 2-series tire sizes among the different brands. I remember a few guys going with 235/40, 245/35, and your 255/35 between the RE71's and the Nitto's. I don't have a lot of experience with R compounds to make an educated decision on fitment for this car, but that's what I'd like to go for next..

Best bang for buck on size/brand/compound for 18x8.5-9" category that fits with our configs ? Cheers as always

D

If performance is priority 1 and you're going to use them on the street go with the RE71. I would take the RE71 over the Nitto NT01. The NT01 is a R comp tire, but it's old tire tech. RE71 is just as fast in my opinion.

For a R comp track tire I would be looking at the Hankook TD tires. Maybe the new R888R.

If you want some form of tire life, but still want good performance then go with the RS3. New RS4 is out too, but not sure how tire life will be on that one. I'm sure it's a faster tire compared to the RS3, but that usually means it wears faster.

Just my opinions.

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by Anthony235

If performance is priority 1 and you're going to use them on the street go with the RE71. I would take the RE71 over the Nitto NT01. The NT01 is a R comp tire, but it's old tire tech. RE71 is just as fast in my opinion.

For a R comp track tire I would be looking at the Hankook TD tires. Maybe the new R888R.

If you want some form of tire life, but still want good performance then go with the RS3. New RS4 is out too, but not sure how tire life will be on that one. I'm sure it's a faster tire compared to the RS3, but that usually means it wears faster.

Just my opinions.

Thanks Anthony, I'll check out the Hankooks and the R888's. How do you think a 245/40 would do on a 8.5" rim with et45 ?

D

[Pparana]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Thanks Anthony, I'll check out the Hankooks and the R888's. How do you think a 245/40 would do on a 8.5" rim with et45 ?

D

245 on a 8.5 depends on section width from tire manufacturer. Megan stuff I have has held up well, but my only concern would be salt if your winter driving, not sure on how their seals would hold up.

[Pparana]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Awesome, seems like a common recipe here

Have not installed the CS's, yet, but have them in hand. Grabbed the 3-Way CS's off of iND for a STEAL of a price here in the classifieds, and had Ryan order the EDC cancellation kit for me, as I wanted plug and play with no coding. Should have them installed in June. ETA on the EDC kit is late May..

As for wheels, Apex ARC-08 18x8.5 square w/ 235/40R18 Cup2's. Next will be R compound tires, not sure which ones yet...

Which Clubsports did you go with?

D

6

I would keep a set of track tires, its better anyway and they fit in the back. NT01 are old tech, but honestly those or the maxis rc01 last the longest, and have almost no tread, which is like getting a much wider tire, plus you can flip on the rim and get another couple days.

Its hard to explain the grip when you have a solid tire, street tires feel almost like being in a 1/2" of slushy snow now.

R-S3 (V-2) hold up pretty well, I use them as street/rain/lazy to swap tires.