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      10-26-2021, 07:27 PM   #45
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thinking I'm usually sitting around 12.32 volts
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      10-27-2021, 08:52 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nazali View Post
another thought on BMW's new "chrging the battery"
again I read that BMW's newly, only charge on braking and coasting, so going out on a long run, doesnt do much. "citation needed"
I wondered too about this and after I installed my P3 vent gage I watched the battery voltage for several days. Some days the battery would run from12.5 down to 12.2 then the alternator would start charging @13.4 but when I went off throttle the blue line would go across and the charge went to 14.6. Now as I drive I see it mostly charging at 13.4 most of the time. Have not seen it go to 12.5 and further down in quite a while.
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      10-27-2021, 04:29 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nazali View Post
picking this up for Friday's overnight charge

MotoMaster Simple Series 6A Battery Charger & Maintainer
I have to agree with albertw here. A stronger charger is not going to fix your problem, at best it will only mask the symptoms. I'd not recommend that strategy when it comes to your electrical system, nothing good will come of it.
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      10-27-2021, 05:23 PM   #48
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Has rodent damage been ruled out?
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      10-28-2021, 11:31 AM   #49
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read and noted, am at work, will reply later
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      10-28-2021, 06:18 PM   #50
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hi sorry work !

So I've looked through TIS and a few other actually technical specs. I am UNABLE to find any where or place that says, you MUST use an "XYZ" charger or a charger rated at "4.3 amps @12.8 volts" etc.

TIS ONLY mentions, no higher than 14.8 volts, no current. IF there is an actual spec, a proper BMW bona-fide link somone can show me , please do.

I've read TIS and double checked it twice and made sure I'm not naughty but nice

I agree that it could mask the issue, because there is a problem, but my 4.3A is not doing it and I'm afraid I'll get up and it won't start. Until I find the problem.

Every day this week (since monday) it's only going up to step 4 or 5, not going into fully charge, I want to have it fully charged up as well, I can't wait 12/24 hours so I can do some testing, PLUS, I need my car everyday except for weekends and I have to work on it on weekends.

As for Rodent damage, I'm not sure how to rule it out, only have thoes pics, I'll use my camera on zoom to see if anything, but other than thoes pics I don't know.
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      10-28-2021, 06:27 PM   #51
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I've ordered a Solar BA9 battery tester, but may not get it in time for Saturday/Sunday

My plan is the following

1> Put a trickle charger on
2> trace the dash cam wiring and remove it (earth end)
3> Depending if I can have the battery on full charge (12.6 volts)
4> Put car to sleep using ista, bonnet closed, doors closed, remove boot light, latch boot lock
5> Remove negative, do a battery parasitic drain test, as a standard see what I have.
6> Disconnect and leave battery neg off for an hour to reset modules
7> Open hood, pull plastic's and have good look around at cables
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      10-28-2021, 06:33 PM   #52
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one other thing, I noticed under the engine when opening or closing the hood I'm hearing a faint whirring noise for about 10 seconds, sounds like a motor/gear noise, I've got adaptive lights anything to do with that winding or adjusting the lights into a closed position, Lights are off BTW and there not on auto mode ?

It doesn't seem to do it all the time, but like one open one close, I was trying to replicate it yesterday, its always done it I've just ignored it, but yesterday, I was trying to replicate it to video the sound, slamming the bonnet/dropping the bonnet neither made it start or stop.
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      10-29-2021, 04:59 PM   #53
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The motherF**er died AGAIN

Every day this week: The car has been on charge from 4pm to 7am.
I encreased my miallge from 6km to 8km (one way), no lights, no heaer no nothing

Every day this week, the car started fine and got me home fine
Today Ctek showed battery fully charged.

Started up, went to work

Home time it was hammering it down, the bitch would not start.
dash flickering, pressing pressing (no power errors, then started)

errors on the dash and idrive, (soft top not locked) car would only idle and rev at no more than 1000rpm, was unable to drive the car, was bunny hopping and jerking, no more than 2-3 kmph,

Stopped car, restarted, same errors, same jerking, did this 4 times 5 time dead dash

Put the NOCO on, and she started first press. Rev'd fine, drove home, 8 km's. Stopped car, started car FINE, no battery error message.

I will be fuqed if I know

I'm thinking this ALL started when my dashcam killed the battery, everytime my car has died (4 outta 5) it rains the car has died (no bonnet open,) no blocked drains. no slaming bonnets today, car just fuqing died

What was different on Friday that did not happen all week, it rained. I'm thiking battery, but how is that effected by rain, unable to test battery without the tester till now next week.

Just on charge now
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      10-29-2021, 05:14 PM   #54
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The symptoms definitely point to a faulty battery. Full discharge can cause issues with it's reliability, or potentially a cell with an internal short from a manufacturing defect. I would take the battery back (as I think you said it was fairly new) and push for a replacement, assuming there isn't any significant parasitic drain due to another issue while the car is parked.

In terms of normal load while parked, I just came back to my car after being in the garage for 25 days without use, started up without any issues or low battery indication.
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      10-29-2021, 07:08 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nazali View Post
The motherF**er died AGAIN

Every day this week: The car has been on charge from 4pm to 7am.
I encreased my miallge from 6km to 8km (one way), no lights, no heaer no nothing

Every day this week, the car started fine and got me home fine
Today Ctek showed battery fully charged.

Started up, went to work

Home time it was hammering it down, the bitch would not start.
dash flickering, pressing pressing (no power errors, then started)

errors on the dash and idrive, (soft top not locked) car would only idle and rev at no more than 1000rpm, was unable to drive the car, was bunny hopping and jerking, no more than 2-3 kmph,

Stopped car, restarted, same errors, same jerking, did this 4 times 5 time dead dash

Put the NOCO on, and she started first press. Rev'd fine, drove home, 8 km's. Stopped car, started car FINE, no battery error message.

I will be fuqed if I know

I'm thinking this ALL started when my dashcam killed the battery, everytime my car has died (4 outta 5) it rains the car has died (no bonnet open,) no blocked drains. no slaming bonnets today, car just fuqing died

What was different on Friday that did not happen all week, it rained. I'm thiking battery, but how is that effected by rain, unable to test battery without the tester till now next week.

Just on charge now
You should take it to the dealer and tell the Shop Foreman to keep it for a week and drive it... and get a loaner meantime
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      10-29-2021, 09:09 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
In terms of normal load while parked, I just came back to my car after being in the garage for 25 days without use, started up without any issues or low battery indication.
...........
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      10-29-2021, 09:14 PM   #57
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That's it, I'm getting a new battery, I have Ista to program it up.

Can't get one till Monday, but what I will do, is still put that stupid dashcam cable, check codes check existing battery with ista, charge battery and see what float charge I get

BMW ain't going to change my battery, if I remember those previous stats, it said battery was ok.



Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
The symptoms definitely point to a faulty battery. Full discharge can cause issues with it's reliability, or potentially a cell with an internal short from a manufacturing defect. I would take the battery back (as I think you said it was fairly new) and push for a replacement, assuming there isn't any significant parasitic drain due to another issue while the car is parked.

In terms of normal load while parked, I just came back to my car after being in the garage for 25 days without use, started up without any issues or low battery indication.
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      10-29-2021, 09:18 PM   #58
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oh wait, I don't think batteries are under warranty, someone said
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      10-30-2021, 12:01 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nazali View Post
That's it, I'm getting a new battery, I have Ista to program it up.

Can't get one till Monday, but what I will do, is still put that stupid dashcam cable, check codes check existing battery with ista, charge battery and see what float charge I get

BMW ain't going to change my battery, if I remember those previous stats, it said battery was ok.
You still have the dash cam wiring connected?

that's the first thing you should do... instead of doing all this charging stuff...
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      10-30-2021, 08:04 AM   #60
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No it's not powered up anymore or connected

They hard wired, from the windscreen to the rear power fuse box, I disconnected the 2 live feeds, from the fuse box, but I could find were they had hard wired the earth, I was planning on doing that today (saturday but it's raining) it runs under the windscreen to the near the a pillar/windscreen pillar

BTW ctek shows overnight with rain, fully charged

Quote:
Originally Posted by pikcachu View Post
You still have the dash cam wiring connected?

that's the first thing you should do... instead of doing all this charging stuff...
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      10-30-2021, 10:06 AM   #61
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***update***
I had a physical conversation with a BMW tech from another forum, he pulled up my car on TSA and showed all the work done, they followed: SI B61 04 19
General Electrical Systems, for "VEHICLE DOES NOT START BATTERY TOTALLY DISCHARGED"

He thinks as you have mentioned, once the battery is fully discharged it's gone, regardless of what anyone says, the earth lead for the dash shouldn't be an issue, but suggested getting BMW to replace the battery under a goodwill.

again a lot of the stats show the battery IS FINE, but I really think that's the next step.
I'm not picking up my battery tester till next week anyway

My problem is new job and I can't take anytime off, my dealer isn't open on weekends, and too far without being late to pickup/drop off even with a loaner. Also my new job has a higher hourly rate, so every hour I am now loosing even more money.

A new battery is $292 (can) my parts guy will do something for me on that. I may need to eat shit and DIY it, I have ista and did a battery change on the 1'er.

A good thing is; weather forecast for next 7 days is no rain so I can also test my theory on rainwater causing an issue.
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      10-30-2021, 10:08 AM   #62
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Last night ctek showed full charge, rained over night and today, this morning cte was down to stage 4, also showed discharge while stopped. didn't lst night

Tomorrow no rain so I'll get out and about on the car and do some digging around
I'm going to keep a log of weather and eventsm so when I go to BMW if this doesnt work I have some kinda documentation
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      10-30-2021, 03:24 PM   #63
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question WHAT is the fully charged voltage for an AGM, I'm reading it's not 12.6 ?
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      10-30-2021, 03:48 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nazali View Post
question WHAT is the fully charged voltage for an AGM, I'm reading it's not 12.6 ?
AGM is 12.8 to 12.9V fully charged, but the measurement should be taken 12hrs after the battery has been last charged or used. 12.6V after the battery has rested will correlate to about 80% charge.
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      10-30-2021, 05:06 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
AGM is 12.8 to 12.9V fully charged, but the measurement should be taken 12hrs after the battery has been last charged or used. 12.6V after the battery has rested will correlate to about 80% charge.
Keep in mind that there is an intermittent battery drain of 1 or 2 amps. That makes the voltage pretty well meaningless unless the battery is disconnected.
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      10-30-2021, 05:15 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albertw View Post
Keep in mind that there is an intermittent battery drain of 1 or 2 amps. That makes the voltage pretty well meaningless unless the battery is disconnected.
Yes, I agree, battery needs to be disconnected for a true rest state measurement and to rule out parasitic draw issues where the car isn't going into a low-drain mode (that should happen 15 mins or so after shutdown).

Parasisitic draw should be less than 100mA if the car is in the low-drain mode. As I mentioned earlier, my car was just recently dormant for 600 hours with no adverse effects or need for being on a battery maintainer, with I think a 90Ah battery and likely less than 50% charge loss, that would be 75mA or less parasistic load.
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