[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by EBM235

Just installed the RC yesterday. very simple install. done about 60 miles on it so far in the B1 setting and running smooth. might up it one setting this weekend.

For some reason they sent me two different cables. took me a while to figure out why it wasn't connecting properly with the first cable, then realized the other cable was the right one.

I will say each time you up the setting it will take a full tank of gas to adapt and feel as smooth in power delivery as the initial setting. At least this was my experience. I wouldn't bother going over setting D and I wouldn't skip from B to D. Pretty much setting B for a tank, setting C for a tank and then setting D; this is assuming you have 93 octane and no other mods. I think it's a nice bump in power over stock, probably similar power as the Stage 1 JB, just a smoother application of power. It's not the fire breathing monster some on here have said it to be. Good, solid smooth tune.

[EBM235]

Originally Posted by kdog26372

I will say each time you up the setting it will take a full tank of gas to adapt and feel as smooth in power delivery as the initial setting. At least this was my experience. I wouldn't bother going over setting D and I wouldn't skip from B to D. Pretty much setting B for a tank, setting C for a tank and then setting D; this is assuming you have 93 octane and no other mods. I think it's a nice bump in power over stock, probably similar power as the Stage 1 JB, just a smoother application of power. It's not the fire breathing monster some on here have said it to be. Good, solid smooth tune.

thanks for the heads up. I will follow your instructions. I haven't seen 93 octane gas around me so using 91. will going to D on 91 cause any issues? I don't have any other mods.

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by EBM235

thanks for the heads up. I will follow your instructions. I haven't seen 93 octane gas around me so using 91. will going to D on 91 cause any issues? I don't have any other mods.

Hard to say, but if level d is best for me on 93, don't see how 91 on level d would be a good idea. You aren't gonna blow up the engine, the ecu will simply adjust and make things feel lumpy and then you know you've turned the dial to much. On 91 I'd stick with base setting of b, but I didn't design the thing, but I also believe that was direct recommendation from RaceChip too.

[FSociety]

I second kdog26372 pretty much in all !

Racechip recommends 98RON which is 93 Octane but for 91 octane users definitely stick with B for a tank, go to C for a tank and try D for a tank.

Modded F would be best, stock car D/E should be the max but of course depends on your octane.

For example ethanol-free 91 octane might be the same as a 10% of ethanol mixture 93 octane.

[Guyhim1]

FYI- at the dealership now for an oil change and they don't care about the RC or AFE Intake... I am in California . Pretty cool

[SDKevin]

Originally Posted by Guyhim1

FYI- at the dealership now for an oil change and they don't care about the RC or AFE Intake... I am in California . Pretty cool

Which dealer?

[Guyhim1]

BMW SF.

[SDKevin]

Thanks, that's good to know.

[EBM235]

when you move up a setting, do you change the numbers or just the letter (i.e. from B1 to C1)? not sure what the numbers represent.

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by EBM235

when you move up a setting, do you change the numbers or just the letter (i.e. from B1 to C1)? not sure what the numbers represent.

Only the letters, the other dial does nothing for non-diesel cars.

I've moved back to B setting as car was pulling power sporadically on D when it was mid-80's. So I'll stick with B setting for summer and then go with D for other 3 seasons. Runs smooth in B setting even in hotter temps again.

[doberzus]

Originally Posted by kdog26372

Only the letters, the other dial does nothing for non-diesel cars.

I've moved back to B setting as car was pulling power sporadically on D when it was mid-80's. So I'll stick with B setting for summer and then go with D for other 3 seasons. Runs smooth in B setting even in hotter temps again.

This is kind of concerning you are at B, considering you are at sea level and have 93 octane.

What about people with 91 pisstane and at altitude(~4500ft)

Isn't B the lowest setting?

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by doberzus

This is kind of concerning you are at B, considering you are at sea level and have 93 octane.

What about people with 91 pisstane and at altitude(~4500ft)

Isn't B the lowest setting?

B is how the thing came from Racechip yes. I believe RaceChip tunes using 93 octane, they are based in Germany and better gas is assumed available. My car ran best at the D setting on 93 octane, but when it got in the 80's I did notice computer pulling things back after 2 hours of stop and go; don't have those issues on stock setting. Perhaps most tunes without upgraded intercooler would get some additional heat soaking on higher boost. Hell even Dinan tunes assuming 93 octane I think. The computer adjusts based on fuel, heat and I'm guessing 100's of factors. I'd think 91 at higher altitude and crappy gas is just going to be best with a flash tune or stage 2 tune like JB4 as it can control adjust what is best for your exact conditions/fuel/altitude. The stage 1 tunes are best for 75% of the markets with good gas and not living at higher up. My 2 cents.

[doberzus]

Originally Posted by kdog26372

B is how the thing came from Racechip yes. I believe RaceChip tunes using 93 octane, they are based in Germany and better gas is assumed available. My car ran best at the D setting on 93 octane, but when it got in the 80's I did notice computer pulling things back after 2 hours of stop and go; don't have those issues on stock setting. Perhaps most tunes without upgraded intercooler would get some additional heat soaking on higher boost. Hell even Dinan tunes assuming 93 octane I think. The computer adjusts based on fuel, heat and I'm guessing 100's of factors. I'd think 91 at higher altitude and crappy gas is just going to be best with a flash tune or stage 2 tune like JB4 as it can control adjust what is best for your exact conditions/fuel/altitude. The stage 1 tunes are best for 75% of the markets with good gas and not living at higher up. My 2 cents.

Thanks for your feedback! Yeah, that is what has me worried. The elevation combined with low quality gas is hard to tune safely, especially when density altitude gets up to ~7000+ft in the summer.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by kdog26372

Only the letters, the other dial does nothing for non-diesel cars.

I've moved back to B setting as car was pulling power sporadically on D when it was mid-80's. So I'll stick with B setting for summer and then go with D for other 3 seasons. Runs smooth in B setting even in hotter temps again.

+1
I also went back to stock (C) for me but have since driven 2 tanks and increased to D.. will leave it at that, going to the drag-strip this friday might or might not increase to E since I have another 2 tanks on D too.

Originally Posted by doberzus

This is kind of concerning you are at B, considering you are at sea level and have 93 octane.

What about people with 91 pisstane and at altitude(~4500ft)

Isn't B the lowest setting?

B is not the lowest setting, B is the recommended optimal performance balance they chose for N55 engine

Originally Posted by kdog26372

B is how the thing came from Racechip yes. I believe RaceChip tunes using 93 octane, they are based in Germany and better gas is assumed available. My car ran best at the D setting on 93 octane, but when it got in the 80's I did notice computer pulling things back after 2 hours of stop and go; don't have those issues on stock setting. Perhaps most tunes without upgraded intercooler would get some additional heat soaking on higher boost. Hell even Dinan tunes assuming 93 octane I think. The computer adjusts based on fuel, heat and I'm guessing 100's of factors. I'd think 91 at higher altitude and crappy gas is just going to be best with a flash tune or stage 2 tune like JB4 as it can control adjust what is best for your exact conditions/fuel/altitude. The stage 1 tunes are best for 75% of the markets with good gas and not living at higher up. My 2 cents.

+1 , even though I wouldn't put Flash Tune and JB4 in the same sentence LOL

[doberzus]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

B is not the lowest setting, B is the recommended optimal performance balance they chose for N55 engine

So what is the lowest and safest setting for 91+Altitude?

I emailed Burger, they said they recommend BMS stage 1 and said it will be just fine with 91 and elevation as its only an additional +3psi over stock.

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by doberzus

So what is the lowest and safest setting for 91+Altitude?

I emailed Burger, they said they recommend BMS stage 1 and said it will be just fine with 91 and elevation as its only an additional +3psi over stock.

There is no way to tell, unless another user in similar elevation and same octane have tested the tune, it's all speculation. Couple options for you; buy a tune with a money back guarantee and try it out yourself, if it runs good keep it, if not, pay restocking fee and move on. Or you could by a used stage 1 tune, again if it works well keep it, if not you can probably resell it for the same used price you just paid. You aren't going to blow up the engine with default setting of these stage 1 tunes, the BMW computer will interfere if things are too far out of spec.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by kdog26372

There is no way to tell, unless another user in similar elevation and same octane have tested the tune, it's all speculation. Couple options for you; buy a tune with a money back guarantee and try it out yourself, if it runs good keep it, if not, pay restocking fee and move on. Or you could by a used stage 1 tune, again if it works well keep it, if not you can probably resell it for the same used price you just paid. You aren't going to blow up the engine with default setting of these stage 1 tunes, the BMW computer will interfere if things are too far out of spec.

+1

Also, if its shipped at a certain setting and you only have 91 octane then I would leave it at that setting. If you have any issues go down a notch. I have tested my N20 from stock setting in the winter to the very high setting (3 numbers before the maximum).

C, D, E, F, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 .. didnt move to 5, 6, or 7
Lowest is 8, 9, A, B,

[FSociety]

AlexGT The Best Fuel Additive Octane Booster Torco Accelerator
I used 32oz of this yesterday with half tank of Shell V-Power (93 Octane) and my god everything was even smoother and I felt an instance bump.

Buying another 32oz

Unleaded Torco Accelerator is not just another fuel additive,
It’s RACE FUEL CONCENTRATE!

Torco Accelerator is a blend of components which will transform the make up of premium pump gas to closely resemble race fuel. Torco Accelerator will lower the end burn temperature which will make your fuel burn more complete thus releasing all of the power that your engine has to offer

Efficiency equals horse power!

All this- while raising the octane of your fuel. Mix a 32oz can of Torco Accelerator to 10 gallons of 91 Premium Unleaded to make an efficient 102 octane race gas, mix with 5 gallons of Premium Unleaded to make 105 Octane. Accelerator is unleaded, so it won’t harm sensitive O2 sensors or catalytic converters

[AlexGT]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

AlexGT The Best Fuel Additive Octane Booster Torco Accelerator
I used 32oz of this yesterday with half tank of Shell V-Power (93 Octane) and my god everything was even smoother and I felt an instance bump.

Buying another 32oz

Thanks for that tip Rob! I hope i find it online as I don't think it sells in my country.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by AlexGT

Thanks for that tip Rob! I hope i find it online as I don't think it sells in my country.

I got it off ebay =D

[M2-BM35i]

Hi guys

Quick one, I've got the BMS s1 installed and it's great, but it's now time to install the RC ultimate in

Do I need to first need to remove the BMS s1 harness and connect the plugs back to standard before plugging in the race chip? Ie must I drive it around normally in std a bit before connecting the RC or can I just connect it straight in as I disconnect the bms s1 harness and take her out for a test?

Can't wait to try out this baby!

Thanks

[1drumshark]

Just for those wondering, I ran my M235xi on F for a few hundred miles (MPE, no other mods) and it ran surprisingly well. Felt fast as hell too. I ended up taking it back to E for long term reliability, and because it feels smoother. F would sometimes skip a beat, or hiccup. I never felt like the engine was running poorly, just not as smooth as a BMW should feel. E is still plenty fast, and much smoother.