[zipphreak]

This is a visual walkthrough of locations for the JB4 install on my F22.
JB4 Stage2 for F-Series w/ EWG harness, ODBII Canbus, and USB. And the best part, the nice aluminum case that makes it. It comes with the cheapest plastic case with a sloppy fitment, don't expect that to be waterproof. Also the EWG harness is a separate harness, BMS cheeped out and did not put any split loom on it. (seriously?) I bought 100 ft of 1/4 automotive grade (about 300 degrees F max), if you are going to do this, PM me and I will sell you 10ft at cost and just pay shipping. The CANbus wires and the ODBII need some split-loom too, it really cleans up the install.

Purchased from our forum sponsor, Xtreme Powerhouse, for a great price. http://www.x-ph.com

The JB4 came with the regular EWG firmware, and I had to upgrade it to the EWG ODBII CANBUS firmware. It's actually pretty slick, in-dash map changing, boost gauge...

[ocN55]

Nice install and post! Couple questions:

Did the loom you use to wrap the wires the same type of loom that comes on the jb4?
When you installed the USB cable did you have to punch a permanent hole?

[zipphreak]

Yes, it's a good nylon split-loom, automotive grade that is high-temp, abrasion, fluid and weather resistant.

There was an existing grommet that i pulled out behind the left side of the fuse box. There was also a foam pad behind it under the passenger side dash. You have to pull down the cover under the glove box that's held in by two 11mm bolts. I did not have to drill any holes for either ODBII canbus or USB wires. Plenty of places to pull wires to the cabin!

-Paul

[dt20011]

Looks great, clean install. Thanks for sharing!

[mike@x-ph.com]

Glad you got it installed

[zipphreak]

Thanks, I spent some extra time today to clean up any exposed wiring from the installs. I ordered some nice black fabric tape that is used on factory wiring harnesses. I wrapped any exposed sections of wiring towards the ends of the split loom, between male/female harness connectors, etc. It really pulls it all together nice.







Got the JB4 updated to the ODBii over the weekend, and it is slick. Can't wait to see what other functionality get's added here.

Now on to the downpipe install before my track day

-Paul

[zipphreak]

Bump i still have 80ft of automotive grade 1/4 Split-loom. Great for finishing off the EWG harness, and CAN bus wires. I will also include some OEM fabric style tape.

Cost is $5.00 plus shipping (USPS first-class)

[ocN55]

I know you said you didn't drill holes but you still had to poke a hole through the foam behind the grommet right? I assume that's what you were doing in the picture with the screw driver, it's what I did.

Unfortunately I did lose the grommet, it's pushed into the hole and I hope its not a big loss

Ohh and by the way, the bolts under the glove box are 10mm not 11 just like the drivers side.

[zipphreak]

Haha yes I lost my grommet too. That side is tight, mine fell into a crevice in the engine bay. There was a small square of foam behind it that i used the screwdriver to push aside. Well first, I tried making a hole in it, since I was going to try to push it through. Then i realized after looking under the glovebox, it was just a square and the screwdriver helped push it aside

Thanks I knew i was close remembering that size! 10mm sounds good.

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Haha yes I lost my grommet too. That side is tight, mine fell into a crevice in the engine bay. There was a small square of foam behind it that i used the screwdriver to push aside. Well first, I tried making a hole in it, since I was going to try to push it through. Then i realized after looking under the glovebox, it was just a square and the screwdriver helped push it aside

Thanks I knew i was close remembering that size! 10mm sounds good.

Damn it, I wish I knew it was possible to just push the foam aside. I had to puncture it, hope that's not a big deal.

This install wasn't for the faint hearted haha, I used a wired hanger for OBD but it didn't work for the USB

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

This review should be very helpful for members looking to install. Thanks!

[zipphreak]

Absolutely that's what this thread is here for.

For the ODB. i just pushed through the end with the bare wires taped off, through the hole under the drivers side firewall area. But first, I got the grommet out with a flathead screwdriver and pliers.

The USB was more difficult as there was less area to maneuver with that damn fuse box in the way, it helps 50% more to take off the cover to the fuse box! You get another 1/2 inch for a long screwdriver to push the grommet aside, and move the foam over. I could not figure out how to release the fuse box to gain that entire area to work, but it's not totally required just need the right tools.

I also did not use the same mounting position recommended by Burger. They showed two zip-ties to the strut brace, the plastic cover didn't seem to fit right once it was back on. I just used the high-strength "mushroom" style clear-velcro on-top of the fuse cover and all was well there.

Make sure you pull back the rubber molding over the plastic cover edges once you are done buttoning everything up. This helps draw water away from the electronics here !

You can get this at any hardware store, home depot, lowes etc..


This is harder to find, but Amazon and eBay got it!


If you find this thread helpful, send $1 to z i p p h re a k (AT) c o m c a s t DOT n e t

[ocN55]

Do the blinkers flash for you when using the CANFlap feature? It doesn't for me.

I have the M Performance exhaust, does anyone know if the CANFlap feature will still work?

[zipphreak]

Are you upgraded to the ODBII firmware?

Yes the blinkers on my dash do flash, Left, Right, and both depending on canflap mode.

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Are you upgraded to the ODBII firmware?

Yes the blinkers on my dash do flash, Left, Right, and both depending on canflap mode.

Yeah OBD firmware but it seems some people are having the same issues as me Basically there is no indication of what my valve is doing.

I hope it wasn't an install issue, I really don't feel like doing it again.


Do you see a valve in your exhaust? I didn't see one in my M performance exhaust which may indicate that this feature is available for me, not sure since I've never had the stock exhaust.

[zipphreak]

My exhaust is stock, and I think you have to move the valve to the M Perf when you install it.

[ocN55]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

My exhaust is stock, and I think you have to move the valve to the M Perf when you install it.

That shouldn't be the case. Do you mind checking your exhaust for flaps when you have a chance? On F80/82 cars you can see it from the tips, just wondering if our cars is supposed to be like that.

[Luminous]

I have the mpe and it comes with a flap on the left pipe. Cg precision makes a valve controller for under $200. I have it and am happy, install is super quick and it comes with two remotes to control your exhaust flap.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

My exhaust is stock, and I think you have to move the valve to the M Perf when you install it.

MPE comes with its own valve so no need to swap hardware from existing to MPE - just unplug/swap exhaust/reconnect plug.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Luminous

I have the mpe and it comes with a flap on the left pipe. Cg precision makes a valve controller for under $200. I have it and am happy, install is super quick and it comes with two remotes to control your exhaust flap.

JB4 3.3 FW has canflap control already with or without canbus plug. Why not save yourself 200 bucks and use the JB4 to control canflap ???

[Luminous]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

JB4 3.3 FW has canflap control already with or without canbus plug. Why not save yourself 200 bucks and use the JB4 to control canflap ???

I have an ecu tune, no jb4.

[raydumasiabjj]

Hi I probably have quite a dumb question here, I just received the aluminum enclosure for the JB4 and was going to do the swap of the board last night...i dont think I have the right size hex key/ bit to remove the 4 screws holding the enclosure together...what size do I need in order to remove the 4 screws? please and thank you (trust me I feel dumb having to ask this)