[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by M2-BM35i

Hi guys

Quick one, I've got the BMS s1 installed and it's great, but it's now time to install the RC ultimate in

Do I need to first need to remove the BMS s1 harness and connect the plugs back to standard before plugging in the race chip? Ie must I drive it around normally in std a bit before connecting the RC or can I just connect it straight in as I disconnect the bms s1 harness and take her out for a test?

Can't wait to try out this baby!

Thanks

You can go ahead and just swap them. You don't need to run it in stock condition.

[CONTROL ONE]

Originally Posted by M2-BM35i

Hi guys

Quick one, I've got the BMS s1 installed and it's great, but it's now time to install the RC ultimate in

Do I need to first need to remove the BMS s1 harness and connect the plugs back to standard before plugging in the race chip? Ie must I drive it around normally in std a bit before connecting the RC or can I just connect it straight in as I disconnect the bms s1 harness and take her out for a test?

Can't wait to try out this baby!

Thanks

I'm in the same boat, I've had the BMS 1 installed for about 6 months and I'm looking for a little bit more so I'm really looking forward to your impressions from going 1 to the other.

Please post any thoughts/reviews, thanks!

[M2-BM35i]

Will do!

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by CONTROL ONE

I'm in the same boat, I've had the BMS 1 installed for about 6 months and I'm looking for a little bit more so I'm really looking forward to your impressions from going 1 to the other.

Please post any thoughts/reviews, thanks!

LOL there are over 15 pages on this thread everything you wanted to know

Originally Posted by M2-BM35i

Will do!

Originally Posted by 1drumshark

Just for those wondering, I ran my M235xi on F for a few hundred miles (MPE, no other mods) and it ran surprisingly well. Felt fast as hell too. I ended up taking it back to E for long term reliability, and because it feels smoother. F would sometimes skip a beat, or hiccup. I never felt like the engine was running poorly, just not as smooth as a BMW should feel. E is still plenty fast, and much smoother.

Same here, but it is advised that those who want to take full benefit of F should have mods (DP, FMIC, CP)
But i'm back on D actually since I want to see how it will run on the drag-strip this week.

[AlexGT]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

LOL there are over 15 pages on this thread everything you wanted to know

exactly what I thought

[M2-BM35i]

Lol... If you not keen on more reviews or comments then what's the point of this forum...

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by AlexGT

exactly what I thought

I guess post more up to date reviews on how is it going after a few months now?
Let the newer guys know

Originally Posted by M2-BM35i

Lol... If you not keen on more reviews or comments then what's the point of this forum...

One thing is being keen on more reviews or comments lol but there's definitely a lot of info on the 22 pages, this is yet to be the longest most useful Racechip Thread on the whole forum.
What I suggest and I'm sure anyone would agree with me, is go through them first and then post your questions/comments/concerns as there's a lot of those already answered.
So instead of having the same question over and over, let's make the thread valuable and not 20+ pages of the same questions.
Hope you are enjoying your Racechip, i have just hit 10,000 miles on mine
(Winter weather as low as -10F, Spring and Summer up to 95F so far)

[SliChillax]

So from reading this thread it's safe to say that the RaceChip Ultimate is a safe mod and also easy to install. I just got my M235i and I don't plan on doing any other mods than this since I want the car to keep its value when I eventually sell it after a year or two to get an M2.

[1drumshark]

Originally Posted by SliChillax

So from reading this thread it's safe to say that the RaceChip Ultimate is a safe mod and also easy to install. I just got my M235i and I don't plan on doing any other mods than this since I want the car to keep it's value when I eventually sell it after a year or two to get an M2.

Very true. Install/Removal take no more than 25min, and it'll give you a nice little boost in power. Keep it dialed to E or below, and it'll stay buttery smooth, and I wouldn't worry about it damaging the engine at all.

[terminator335i]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

AlexGT chaddy74
How is it going? recorded any fun videos yet?

Yo guys, I'm new to the forum. I've been reading your threads for months now and can see your personal thoughts of the racechip. I got a 2014 f30 335i with racechip chip tuning ultimate purchased 1month ago (due to the numerous feed backs and research online) Since installing it with the original setting of b1, I have now gone to s2=4 changing three bumps in settings each time. Have no issues so far. Will install my afe momentum pro dry s intake soon which I bought on eBay. Car is very alive. I'll try and post pictures soon.

[terminator335i]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

LOL there are over 15 pages on this thread everything you wanted to know

Same here, but it is advised that those who want to take full benefit of F should have mods (DP, FMIC, CP)
But i'm back on D actually since I want to see how it will run on the drag-strip this week.

Yo robync, I got a 2014 f30 335i with racechip chip tuning ultimate purchased 1month ago. Since installing it with the original setting of b1, I have now gone to s2=4 changing three bumps in settings each time. Have no issues so far. Will install my afe momentum pro dry s intake soon which I bought on eBay. Car is very alive. Emailed race chip Germany and they told be that the factory setting of s2dial of b and s1 dial as 1 will give a 10% jump (whether it be n20 or n55 engine and every dial up will give a 1% increase. So if you dial s2=7 (max setting) you will get the advertised power and torque increase of 20% ie: n20 engines go from 180kw/350 Nm to 225kw/450Nm and n55 engines go from 225kw/400Nm to 271kw/505Nm. Btw saw your posted videos on YouTube...very impressed.

[EBM235]

So I took the racechip out when taking the car to get serviced, and upon return, the car just seems sluggish with a lot of lag. is it just me being use to having the chip and not noticing the amount of lag previously? Anyone else notice this?

[kdog26372]

Originally Posted by EBM235

So I took the racechip out when taking the car to get serviced, and upon return, the car just seems sluggish with a lot of lag. is it just me being use to having the chip and not noticing the amount of lag previously? Anyone else notice this?

The computer adapts to your driving style. The tune adds more boost down low requiring less peddle to get desired acceleration. The ecu had now adapted to that type of driving. My guess would be if you unplugged negative battery terminal for a few minutes and drove a bit without racechip on to let ecu adapt, the lag would go away. Generally I've found stage 1 piggyback tunes add lag from a stop vs stock setup.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by 1drumshark

Just for those wondering, I ran my M235xi on F for a few hundred miles (MPE, no other mods) and it ran surprisingly well. Felt fast as hell too. I ended up taking it back to E for long term reliability, and because it feels smoother. F would sometimes skip a beat, or hiccup. I never felt like the engine was running poorly, just not as smooth as a BMW should feel. E is still plenty fast, and much smoother.

F is the best setting for long-term reliability when car is fully stock, settings will vary depending on car tolerance and location, gas quality etc. So I agree E-F is the best optimal performance while stock and some have seen F with Full-Bolt-Ons as best too because the setting starts adapting to your mods if any, also it just gets better as you put on more miles.

Originally Posted by terminator335i

Yo robync, I got a 2014 f30 335i with racechip chip tuning ultimate purchased 1month ago. Since installing it with the original setting of b1, I have now gone to s2=4 changing three bumps in settings each time. Have no issues so far. Will install my afe momentum pro dry s intake soon which I bought on eBay. Car is very alive. Emailed race chip Germany and they told be that the factory setting of s2dial of b and s1 dial as 1 will give a 10% jump (whether it be n20 or n55 engine and every dial up will give a 1% increase. So if you dial s2=7 (max setting) you will get the advertised power and torque increase of 20% ie: n20 engines go from 180kw/350 Nm to 225kw/450Nm and n55 engines go from 225kw/400Nm to 271kw/505Nm. Btw saw your posted videos on YouTube...very impressed.

I tested each setting 1 by 1, putting at least 50 miles on each of them to make sure i get no errors and i wanted to see if i notice the change of each. I recommend going 1 by 1 so your car can adapt little by little to the 1.5% increase instead of a huge jump.
Yes indeed, look at my new videos now.
I have tried S2=3 and 4 as well in the winter (video link in my signature is running 3 and 4 that day) i never tried 5, 6 or 7.
I did a Dyno run baseline, D, F, 1, & 4

Sure the car felt the fastest above 0, but at 2-4 I noticed it was too fast lol even in EcoPro mode and Comfort felt like Sport+. I also think 0+ will be smoother with better fuel 93+ octane from TopTierGas (Shell, Valero, etc)
The car runs crappy on BP to be honest..

Originally Posted by EBM235

So I took the racechip out when taking the car to get serviced, and upon return, the car just seems sluggish with a lot of lag. is it just me being use to having the chip and not noticing the amount of lag previously? Anyone else notice this?

I noticed this as well I was only able to drive for 60 miles after service when I reinstalled because i couldn't deal with how laggy the car was compared to when I drive with RaceChip.

Originally Posted by kdog26372

The computer adapts to your driving style. The tune adds more boost down low requiring less peddle to get desired acceleration. The ecu had now adapted to that type of driving. My guess would be if you unplugged negative battery terminal for a few minutes and drove a bit without racechip on to let ecu adapt, the lag would go away. Generally I've found stage 1 piggyback tunes add lag from a stop vs stock setup.

Why I am loving RaceChip Ultimate best $600 I ever spent and car is still fully stock, 10,000 miles on the tune and never a CEL or Fault Codes or Drivetrain Malfunction, I have pushed my car and settings throughout the winter very hard that I was able to beat the 35i car. Mind you all I have a 28i (n20 engine) so whoever has RaceChip on N55 will be even more happy.


Drag-Strip 1/4 mile against my friend X3 xDrive28i Dinan Stage1
RaceChip Ultimate on Setting D (1 above C which is stock)

Setting E (2 above stock)

I let my Dinan friend drive my car and I drove his and look how much of a different after 50mph RC kicks in so hard even on E, imagine if I would of put it on F, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 settings (which I did try successfully in the winter) haven't changed in the summer yet but will do.

[terminator335i]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

F is the best setting for long-term reliability when car is fully stock, settings will vary depending on car tolerance and location, gas quality etc. So I agree E-F is the best optimal performance while stock and some have seen F with Full-Bolt-Ons as best too because the setting starts adapting to your mods if any, also it just gets better as you put on more miles.

I tested each setting 1 by 1, putting at least 50 miles on each of them to make sure i get no errors and i wanted to see if i notice the change of each. I recommend going 1 by 1 so your car can adapt little by little to the 1.5% increase instead of a huge jump.
Yes indeed, look at my new videos now.
I have tried S2=3 and 4 as well in the winter (video link in my signature is running 3 and 4 that day) i never tried 5, 6 or 7.
I did a Dyno run baseline, D, F, 1, & 4

Sure the car felt the fastest above 0, but at 2-4 I noticed it was too fast lol even in EcoPro mode and Comfort felt like Sport+. I also think 0+ will be smoother with better fuel 93+ octane from TopTierGas (Shell, Valero, etc)
The car runs crappy on BP to be honest..

I noticed this as well I was only able to drive for 60 miles after service when I reinstalled because i couldn't deal with how laggy the car was compared to when I drive with RaceChip.

Why I am loving RaceChip Ultimate best $600 I ever spent and car is still fully stock, 10,000 miles on the tune and never a CEL or Fault Codes or Drivetrain Malfunction, I have pushed my car and settings throughout the winter very hard that I was able to beat the 35i car. Mind you all I have a 28i (n20 engine) so whoever has RaceChip on N55 will be even more happy.


Drag-Strip 1/4 mile against my friend X3 xDrive28i Dinan Stage1
RaceChip Ultimate on Setting D (1 above C which is stock)

Setting E (2 above stock)

I let my Dinan friend drive my car and I drove his and look how much of a different after 50mph RC kicks in so hard even on E, imagine if I would of put it on F, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 settings (which I did try successfully in the winter) haven't changed in the summer yet but will do.

Just a notification to all race chip owners. I recently contacted the technical team at racechip Germany. The preset setting on the racechip when you purchase it is usually set as s2=B and s1=1 for petrol engines. This gives an increase of 10% of more power over the factory bmw regardless of what engine you have or model. Every increment on the s2 dial will give approx 1% extra power. So if you go from "B" to maximum value of "7" you have to dial it up 12 times (ie c,d,e,f,0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7) meaning an extra 12% on top of the 10%. So a total of 22% over stock. This is what the racechip ultimate is advertising on their website as the maximum gain for the bmw cars.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by terminator335i

Just a notification to all race chip owners. I recently contacted the technical team at racechip Germany. The preset setting on the racechip when you purchase it is usually set as s2=B and s1=1 for petrol engines. This gives an increase of 10% of more power over the factory bmw regardless of what engine you have or model. Every increment on the s2 dial will give approx 1% extra power. So if you go from "B" to maximum value of "7" you have to dial it up 12 times (ie c,d,e,f,0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7) meaning an extra 12% on top of the 10%. So a total of 22% over stock. This is what the racechip ultimate is advertising on their website as the maximum gain for the bmw cars.

thank you terminator but not all cars are able to reach that high of setting, as everything has a different tolerance (location, altitude, fuel quality, etc)
What setting are you on

[terminator335i]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

thank you terminator but not all cars are able to reach that high of setting, as everything has a different tolerance (location, altitude, fuel quality, etc)
What setting are you on

Currently s2= 4 Robnyc. I found that the factory setting of s2=b was barely any difference. I started noticing some real torque when I went to E. But it definitely pulls very well on setting 4. The only other extra mods I have is an afe cold air intake pro dry s which I bought on eBay and installed myself. The best fun you can have with your car or any car for that matter is to be able to do your own modifications. There's a real sense of pride that I'm sure all owners get when they do work on their own car (even something as simple as changing a halogen bulb to led bulbs). I mean you can always pay someone or a workshop to do it but nothing like a bit of elbow grease and the satisfaction you get.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by terminator335i

Currently s2= 4 Robnyc. I found that the factory setting of s2=b was barely any difference. I started noticing some real torque when I went to E. But it definitely pulls very well on setting 4. The only other extra mods I have is an afe cold air intake pro dry s which I bought on eBay and installed myself. The best fun you can have with your car or any car for that matter is to be able to do your own modifications. There's a real sense of pride that I'm sure all owners get when they do work on their own car (even something as simple as changing a halogen bulb to led bulbs). I mean you can always pay someone or a workshop to do it but nothing like a bit of elbow grease and the satisfaction you get.

I hope u went from E, to F, to 0, 1,2,3,4 lol ..
I don't think 4 is going to be safe or reliable for long-term use with stock components.
You should Dyno each setting so you can see the curve and have someone that really knows do it because they will tell you if its able to put all the power down or if its feeling like a surge of too much.

What octane over there?
Weather?

[terminator335i]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

I hope u went from E, to F, to 0, 1,2,3,4 lol ..
I don't think 4 is going to be safe or reliable for long-term use with stock components.
You should Dyno each setting so you can see the curve and have someone that really knows do it because they will tell you if its able to put all the power down or if its feeling like a surge of too much.

What octane over there?
Weather?

Dyno here in Australia are not plentiful as they are in the us. Also they charge an arm and a leg for one. I've always used 98 octane rating and weather is actually cool here around 15 - 20 degrees Celsius. So less stress on the car. Best thing here is that we have good race tracks and they are cheap to enter so a lot of car enthusiasts track their cars. The n20 and n55 engines are always underated for various reasons that bmw have done (seriously there could be a new discussion thread on this and I'm sure we'd get pages and pages of people's input) and they can certainly handle a whole lot more power. They've limited the power so the n20 won't outperform the n55, the n55 won't outperform the s55, and the s55 won't outperform the s63. But the potentials for all these cars without any other external modifications are certainly a whole lot more. This is great for tuners as they have inside knowledge of what these engines are capable of, and they set all the parameters to meet within the safety guidelines. All piggybacks offer extra horsepower and torque. They can certainly over boost the turbos to pump out a shit load more but they know that it would not be feasible in the long term for engine and drivetrain longevity. The n20's safety limit is from 180kw stock to around 225kw (45 extra kW) The n55 from 225kw to 280kw (55 extra kW), the s55 from 317kw to 400 kW (extra 80 kW) and the s63 from 410 kW to 500kw (extra 90kw). All piggybacks or even ecu flash tunes are giving this extra power to be within the safety parameters of stock internal components. (Jb4, racechip, superchip, remus powerizer, afe modules, vr tuning, manhart, ac schnitzer, ess tuning, evolve technik, custom ecu with various tuners etc....) if you want to go "beyond" the maximum safety limit, then yes, extra supporting mods "are" a MUST!!. exhaust modifications to reduce the back pressure on the turbos, cooler air to the engine via better intakes, more cooling to the turbos via upgraded intercoolers, etc.... These are the next step. And if you want to go beyond stage 2, then upgraded injectors, high pressure fuel pump, methanol kits/water injection kits and bigger turbos will get you beyond what most people would use everyday.

[Delnari]

Man I miss my turbo and the cheap power mods like the RaceChip. Contacted a dealer today for new ECU flash for the Cayman and they can only clone your existing ECU and send you a new flashed one. So, instead of getting a $800 piggyback computer, I would need to spend $4K, wait two weeks+ while it gets cloned by a German Tuner, and gain 25 HP and 17 TQ. Essentially, removing the Porsche detune on this 3.4L 911 engine, and putting the 911 factory tune on it. Needless to say, I'm waiting for a cheaper alternative...

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by Delnari

Man I miss my turbo and the cheap power mods like the RaceChip. Contacted a dealer today for new ECU flash for the Cayman and they can only clone your existing ECU and send you a new flashed one. So, instead of getting a $800 piggyback computer, I would need to spend $4K, wait two weeks+ while it gets cloned by a German Tuner, and gain 25 HP and 17 TQ. Essentially, removing the Porsche detune on this 3.4L 911 engine, and putting the 911 factory tune on it. Needless to say, I'm waiting for a cheaper alternative...

damn thats like $200/hp lol

[W///]

Originally Posted by Delnari

Man I miss my turbo and the cheap power mods like the RaceChip. Contacted a dealer today for new ECU flash for the Cayman and they can only clone your existing ECU and send you a new flashed one. So, instead of getting a $800 piggyback computer, I would need to spend $4K, wait two weeks+ while it gets cloned by a German Tuner, and gain 25 HP and 17 TQ. Essentially, removing the Porsche detune on this 3.4L 911 engine, and putting the 911 factory tune on it. Needless to say, I'm waiting for a cheaper alternative...

My buddy is getting a GT4 next month and sent me a link for a stage 1 power kit for like $9000. So ridiculous.

The M2 or the M3 will be my first FI car. I'm excited to play with cheaper mods.