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      03-02-2015, 09:30 AM   #23
Cyberdemon
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Originally Posted by BMW335iOn18s View Post
I think they just roll the remainder of your payments into the new lease. You're paying for it either way...
This is only true if you decide to not negotiate the new car or not understand what your payments should be.

In normal circumstances, if you had a lease and showed up 6 months before it terminated, the dealer would roll in your negative equity from the buyout price, or the remaining payments into the new lease payment. In this case, yes, you are paying for it either way, and only the dealer is involved. Any dealer will gladly take a car you have and sell you a new one.

The pull ahead program is only available at specific times, and BMW NA themselves (not the dealers) run the program. BMW will offer the dealer a buyback price on your car. If your car is something desirable that the dealer wants for their used car inventory they can take it, however they are ALLOWED to say no.

This means if you show up with a car that is 50k over the allowed mileage, has been in a wreck, etc they can say "sorry your car doesn't qualify" and you are SOL. Or more likely, they will roll whatever negative equity into your new lease terms so they don't get burned.

If you are like many people who drive BMW's though, who take generally good care of the vehicle, are under mileage, then it is valuable to them.

BMW will also offer "Mulligans" that are incentives that if a dealer takes back a certain number of pull ahead vehicles, they can take in a crap vehicle and just send it directly to BMW NA for auction.

When moving from lease to lease you need to consider:

1 - What a good deal is on the car you want
2 - What damages exist on your current vehicle that will factor into the negotiations ("waiving" damages usually just rolls the true cost back into your new lease)
3 - Whether or not your car has any pre-existing issues/mileage/etc that will make it undesirable.

If you have all those numbers available and understand what your lease price should be, there is no way for a dealer to ring you around. In many cases the pull ahead is a great deal for the dealers since they sell you a new car, and can get newer cars with lower mileage and better condition into their used car lots.
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      03-02-2015, 12:50 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdemon
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW335iOn18s View Post
I think they just roll the remainder of your payments into the new lease. You're paying for it either way...
This is only true if you decide to not negotiate the new car or not understand what your payments should be.

In normal circumstances, if you had a lease and showed up 6 months before it terminated, the dealer would roll in your negative equity from the buyout price, or the remaining payments into the new lease payment. In this case, yes, you are paying for it either way, and only the dealer is involved. Any dealer will gladly take a car you have and sell you a new one.

The pull ahead program is only available at specific times, and BMW NA themselves (not the dealers) run the program. BMW will offer the dealer a buyback price on your car. If your car is something desirable that the dealer wants for their used car inventory they can take it, however they are ALLOWED to say no.

This means if you show up with a car that is 50k over the allowed mileage, has been in a wreck, etc they can say "sorry your car doesn't qualify" and you are SOL. Or more likely, they will roll whatever negative equity into your new lease terms so they don't get burned.

If you are like many people who drive BMW's though, who take generally good care of the vehicle, are under mileage, then it is valuable to them.

BMW will also offer "Mulligans" that are incentives that if a dealer takes back a certain number of pull ahead vehicles, they can take in a crap vehicle and just send it directly to BMW NA for auction.

When moving from lease to lease you need to consider:

1 - What a good deal is on the car you want
2 - What damages exist on your current vehicle that will factor into the negotiations ("waiving" damages usually just rolls the true cost back into your new lease)
3 - Whether or not your car has any pre-existing issues/mileage/etc that will make it undesirable.

If you have all those numbers available and understand what your lease price should be, there is no way for a dealer to ring you around. In many cases the pull ahead is a great deal for the dealers since they sell you a new car, and can get newer cars with lower mileage and better condition into their used car lots.
Couldn't of said it better myself. Thanks for contributing!

-M
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      03-02-2015, 02:20 PM   #25
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Newb Question.

I just put a deposit on an base M235i I built (didn't see the need for leather or tech packages), I got what I consider a 'decent' deal (confirmed by some people on the forums) at essentially 6.5% off MSRP. $41,700.

When the time comes in Mid April for delivery, how do I calculate the MSD's cost on a 10k 39 month lease?

I keep hearing not to put cash down, but I also hear of people, like the OP, getting a more expensive MSRP for under $500/month, what's my best options here?
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      03-02-2015, 03:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atxlos
Newb Question.

I just put a deposit on an base M235i I built (didn't see the need for leather or tech packages), I got what I consider a 'decent' deal (confirmed by some people on the forums) at essentially 6.5% off MSRP. $41,700.

When the time comes in Mid April for delivery, how do I calculate the MSD's cost on a 10k 39 month lease?

I keep hearing not to put cash down, but I also hear of people, like the OP, getting a more expensive MSRP for under $500/month, what's my best options here?
If you got a 6% off MSRP on that car you will have no problem whatsoever getting under 500 a month with 1800 due at signing.

With tax and everything you should be paying
$1800 due at signing (first month payment, tags etc) and ~$480 a month at 10k miles for 39 months. You won't even have to worry about security deposits for that.

Just make sure they give you the .0013 money factor and that's all. They can definitely do that deal if not a little better. It's just harder to get a great discount on a car you ordered. So that percentage off is a good deal.

Good luck man.
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      03-02-2015, 04:03 PM   #27
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I did get the .0013 MF and was approved, so I feel I got a good deal overall (considering another deal wouldn't give me a dime off the MSRP and .0017).

I'll have to look at the numbers, the 'quote' sheet BMW gave me at $3k down was about $510/month, hence my confusion when I see the deals people get here.

Could it have to do with Texas leases and getting Taxed for the full price of the car?
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      03-02-2015, 04:05 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atxlos
I did get the .0013 MF and was approved, so I feel I got a good deal overall (considering another deal wouldn't give me a dime off the MSRP and .0017).

I'll have to look at the numbers, the 'quote' sheet BMW gave me at $3k down was about $510/month, hence my confusion when I see the deals people get here.

Could it have to do with Texas leases and getting Taxed for the full price of the car?
Yep. My bad I was assuming you were somewhere outside Texas. But I would go with 2k down 510 a month out the door. They should be able to do that deal. But then again how fast a base m235 would sell at their lot I would consider the MSD plan if you're not ok with 3k down. But 3k down 510 a month is still a very good deal on that car.

Best,

-M
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      03-02-2015, 05:23 PM   #29
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Good to know, I'll definitely be fine with either option, I just want to make sure I'm making the smart move, I feel like I already got the good MSRP and MF, now just to figure out the signing amount.

It's the best we can do in Texas I suppose!
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      03-02-2015, 05:59 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atxlos
Good to know, I'll definitely be fine with either option, I just want to make sure I'm making the smart move, I feel like I already got the good MSRP and MF, now just to figure out the signing amount.

It's the best we can do in Texas I suppose!
It's a crazy world when you can get a better deal in CA or NY than Texas haha.
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      03-02-2015, 09:17 PM   #31
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That's for sure, y'all are coming here and buying our houses, and I'm tempted to go there and buy a car :P
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      03-02-2015, 10:50 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thescout13 View Post
Couldn't of said it better myself. Thanks for contributing!

-M
So my question is more about damage to a leased vehicle. I was in an accident in which I was not at fault, requiring replacement of my quarter panel. The repair was done perfectly by BMW collision center. Does this have any affect when I turn in my lease? More importantly does this cause me to lose out on the option to sell/trade my car for above buyout at lease end due the car having been in an accident? If that is the case do I have the right to file a diminished value claim?
Thanks
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      03-03-2015, 02:08 PM   #33
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Does anyone know invoice price for the M Performance Exhaust, for custom order, Port Installed Accessory, it should be a different percentage than the other car options.
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      03-03-2015, 04:42 PM   #34
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Am I the only one who wishes leases were shorter? Good or bad - my generation doesn't see cars as long-term items. Cars are no different than iPhones. We should be able to trade them in after a year. I hope in the future shorter leases will be an option.
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      03-03-2015, 05:58 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samtnel
Am I the only one who wishes leases were shorter? Good or bad - my generation doesn't see cars as long-term items. Cars are no different than iPhones. We should be able to trade them in after a year. I hope in the future shorter leases will be an option.
Because of depreciation AND your generation. BMW used to have awesome 24 and 36 months leases now things are getting to 39 month leases for better deals. That's because your generation wants newer things not older things so the depreciation rates are increasing because you don't want an iPhone 3G, thus the best deals are going to longer leases because they can recuperate some of that depreciation loss and try to resell it for a lower value than it would have been 30 years ago

I promise the above could make more sense if I had more time to write it out. But just know there is a reason new car sales keep rising despite the economy and that new car depreciation rates are getting worse and worse
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      03-03-2015, 09:33 PM   #36
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I personally embrace the depreciation caused by our throw away world. It means I can scoop up a 3 year old BMW for Kia money. That is a pretty awesome feeling.
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      03-03-2015, 09:34 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esp42089
I personally embrace the depreciation caused by our throw away world. It means I can scoop up a 3 year old BMW for Kia money. That is a pretty awesome feeling.
And you are the saving grace of this new world. Haha. I'm with you on that.
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      03-04-2015, 02:02 AM   #38
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Actually, that's a good question - the depreciation is affected by long term reliability, right?

There's a 2005 e46 330 with 79k miles on Carmax going for something like $14k. so maybe about 40% or so of its original value or something like that? For a 10 year old car, that must mean something, even though BMW does have a reputation for expensive repairs over 100k miles...hopefully that says something about 3 (and maybe 2?) series reliability, vs. the higher end models (7 series cough cough)

I hear you about throwaway culture these days, but it may be a vicious cycle...perhaps BMW doesn't have incentive for long term Toyota-style reliability because of this, and therefore things will never improve (i.e. why engineer something to last 500k miles without major issues, when ppl are going to lease something else after 30k?)
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      03-04-2015, 02:48 AM   #39
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I wanted to lease a 228 and was told I'd have to put 6000 down. So I bought a used 328i instead.
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      03-04-2015, 08:02 AM   #40
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Lease Question

Scout,

Thank you for your valuable info and guidance. I am looking to lease a 228 coupe that I will need to order. Options include Msport, Lighting, Moonroof and upgrade paint. MSRP comes to 38,500

What kind of sale price do you think I will be able to negotiate this down to? Money factor and residual I have been given for 36/12 is .00129 and 61%. Is this accurate?

I am in Ohio and only like putting down first month payment at signing - no cap cost reduction or any other form of down payment. What do you think a competitive monthly would be under these terms? Thanks again

Michelle
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      03-04-2015, 08:11 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caycep
Actually, that's a good question - the depreciation is affected by long term reliability, right?

There's a 2005 e46 330 with 79k miles on Carmax going for something like $14k. so maybe about 40% or so of its original value or something like that? For a 10 year old car, that must mean something, even though BMW does have a reputation for expensive repairs over 100k miles...hopefully that says something about 3 (and maybe 2?) series reliability, vs. the higher end models (7 series cough cough)

I hear you about throwaway culture these days, but it may be a vicious cycle...perhaps BMW doesn't have incentive for long term Toyota-style reliability because of this, and therefore things will never improve (i.e. why engineer something to last 500k miles without major issues, when ppl are going to lease something else after 30k?)
M3 is a specialty car, can't use that as an example. Because a 135 with 55k miles d fled out sells for 17k now as well
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      03-04-2015, 08:11 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by city1991
I wanted to lease a 228 and was told I'd have to put 6000 down. So I bought a used 328i instead.
They were just trying screw you over unless you had terrible credit:
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      03-04-2015, 08:16 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurleymlh
Scout,

Thank you for your valuable info and guidance. I am looking to lease a 228 coupe that I will need to order. Options include Msport, Lighting, Moonroof and upgrade paint. MSRP comes to 38,500

What kind of sale price do you think I will be able to negotiate this down to? Money factor and residual I have been given for 36/12 is .00129 and 61%. Is this accurate?

I am in Ohio and only like putting down first month payment at signing - no cap cost reduction or any other form of down payment. What do you think a competitive monthly would be under these terms? Thanks again

Michelle
For an ordered car you are probably looking at 36,500-37,000 final price with everything included fees etc.

With basically nothing due at signing your payments should be right around: $472 a month including tax. They are giving you a hell of a deal on money factor and residual because usually for 36/12 the money factor is .0013 and residual is .59 (yes 36 months has been lower than or equally to 39 months). At 39 months it will be slightly cheaper
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      03-04-2015, 08:39 AM   #44
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tip: you can use the leasematic app for iphone, its was very helpful for calculating leases
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