[B58togo]

Originally Posted by MerlinMc

How do you like the EBC RS pads? Thanks.

Haven't put them on yet. Soon though!

[DrivingPassion]

Gosh, I stripped that stupid screw holding the old rotor.
I'm intending to drill it out.
Is that the only option?

[DrivingPassion]

Any suggestions?

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by DrivingPassion

Any suggestions?

Drilling it out will be the fastest for sure if you've stripped the head.

Impact screwdriver next time will help a lot with that one..

[DrivingPassion]

Originally Posted by Dylan86

Drilling it out will be the fastest for sure if you've stripped the head.

Impact screwdriver next time will help a lot with that one..

No luck getting it out, even with a bolt extractor drill bit and reverse screw.

I just swapped out the pads and not replace the rotors for now.

*sigh*

[DrivingPassion]

Lesson learned: changing rotors should be a pretty plain procedure but if something breaks in between, it will lengthen the procedures by 2X-3X, if you are lucky.

[SizzlerWA]

Originally Posted by DrivingPassion

I just sent in my M235i 2015 for 40K service.
This car was bought through the official CPO program with 4 new tires and new brakes last year at this time.

I have only put in around 10K miles in 12 months.

The SA just sent me this bombshell:

1. We were unable to finish the brake flush at this time, because the inner bleeders are seized (which usually happens if water and salt gets to it). The way to solve this issue is to try to loosen them up which is half an hour of labor at $100.
2. The only risk is that one or both calipers may break during this procedures, which in that case, each caliper is $1200 to install.
3. All 4 tires are at the wear bar and need to be replaced and aligned. The price to replace all 4 plus alignment is $1080 plus tax.
   
4. And front and rear brake pads are at 4mm(3mm is the lowest point) and need to be replaced as well. The price to replace all 4 pads is $950 plus tax.
   

What do you think?
How could the tires last only 1 year under 10K miles?
Flushing the brakes can brake the seized calipers ?

I'd get new tires at TireRack.com - they can size them for your car if you enter your model. Then have them drop shipped directly to TruLine tire and wheel, they're really good. I go to the one in Seattle. They can mount and balance for you.

After only 15k miles on them my tires are "cupped" on my M240 XDrive.

You could also try Stone's German Garage - they're good and fairly priced. Saved me a lot on my old 330i. They could help with your brakes.

[MerlinMc]

Originally Posted by B58togo

Haven't put them on yet. Soon though!

Just put red stuff pads on my front wheels over the weekend. The install was even easier than changing the pads on my 135. Will install red stuff on the rears perhaps next weekend, but wanted to make sure the fronts were working properly.

So far, so good but still need to get the pads bedded in.

[John in VA]

Originally Posted by DrivingPassion

No luck getting it out, even with a bolt extractor drill bit and reverse screw.
I just swapped out the pads and not replace the rotors for now.
*sigh*

It's too late now, but hitting the rotor with a deadblow or sledge hammer can easily break the set-screw. Then you can unscrew the remaining bit once the rotor is off.
Be sure to use some anti-seize paste on them next time!

[Maynard]

I'm gonna suggest you stop here and find that decent indie mechanic you should have started with in the first place. Sounds like you have brakes that are more than a bit corroded and frozen (having lived in MN for a year, I'm not surprised). Pad swap, even w/ rotors, is pretty simple IF everything goes smoothly, but it isn't. Much of what you'll be paying for is the experience and know how - I'd want s/b to really verify that all the pistons move freely, no torn boots, bent hardware, or sticking pads. Also to verify that rotors really sit flat and true (runout will cause irregular wear and vibration, eventually pulsing). You'll also want s/b with an ISTAR (or whatever they call the tech computer) so you can flush the ABS - whatever fluid is still in there is probably pretty far gone. You may find that the indie place will let you watch and learn - this is what I did, so eventually I'll go the DIY route. Once you find a place, ask them about their policy for aftermarket parts, as everybody is different.

[harma24]

Originally Posted by DrivingPassion

Gosh, I stripped that stupid screw holding the old rotor.
I'm intending to drill it out.
Is that the only option?

HA! I did that too. Makes me feel better that that stupid screw strips that easily.

Anyways, take a torx bit, hammer it in and use that to back it out. I forget the size; might have been a T8 that worked well for me.

Now I know why the directions call for replacing that screw. The damn things probably strip every time you try to remove them!

[DrivingPassion]

Originally Posted by SizzlerWA

I'd get new tires at TireRack.com - they can size them for your car if you enter your model. Then have them drop shipped directly to TruLine tire and wheel, they're really good. I go to the one in Seattle. They can mount and balance for you.

After only 15k miles on them my tires are "cupped" on my M240 XDrive.

You could also try Stone's German Garage - they're good and fairly priced. Saved me a lot on my old 330i. They could help with your brakes.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[DrivingPassion]

Originally Posted by John in VA

It's too late now, but hitting the rotor with a deadblow or sledge hammer can easily break the set-screw. Then you can unscrew the remaining bit once the rotor is off.
Be sure to use some anti-seize paste on them next time!

Yup, I agree. I think I will have to hammer it out after I thin it down using a drill.

[DrivingPassion]

Originally Posted by harma24

HA! I did that too. Makes me feel better that that stupid screw strips that easily.

Anyways, take a torx bit, hammer it in and use that to back it out. I forget the size; might have been a T8 that worked well for me.

Now I know why the directions call for replacing that screw. The damn things probably strip every time you try to remove them!

I did buy a bolt extractor where you drill in (reverse) and flip the bit to extracting side to reverse it out. But, it did not grip so I'm going to try more.

[DrivingPassion]

Originally Posted by Maynard

I'm gonna suggest you stop here and find that decent indie mechanic you should have started with in the first place. Sounds like you have brakes that are more than a bit corroded and frozen (having lived in MN for a year, I'm not surprised). Pad swap, even w/ rotors, is pretty simple IF everything goes smoothly, but it isn't. Much of what you'll be paying for is the experience and know how - I'd want s/b to really verify that all the pistons move freely, no torn boots, bent hardware, or sticking pads. Also to verify that rotors really sit flat and true (runout will cause irregular wear and vibration, eventually pulsing). You'll also want s/b with an ISTAR (or whatever they call the tech computer) so you can flush the ABS - whatever fluid is still in there is probably pretty far gone. You may find that the indie place will let you watch and learn - this is what I did, so eventually I'll go the DIY route. Once you find a place, ask them about their policy for aftermarket parts, as everybody is different.

Thank you for the cautions. There are no corrosions or sticking pistons. The brakes worked fine. No wobbling or shaking when I depress the brakes.

I did use a brass brush to clean the crevices before I replaced the pads.

The replacement of pads were recommended by dealer because they were close to min thickness.

I'm planning to get the car to an indie mechanic to get the brakes flushed after I'm done with replacing the front rotors.

[EstorilM240]

How could the tires last only 1 year under 10K miles?

The replacement of pads were recommended by dealer because they were close to min thickness.

What I'm worried about is the brakes wearing to 4mm in one year and 10K miles. My guess is they weren't actually at 4mm, but they just quoted you that to sell you the brake service.

If you are in California (which you're not), state law requires that they give you the old brake pads - you can then inspect them and see if 4mm really meant 4mm, or it was 5mm, 6mm, or "time to sell some more brakes".

In my case, I was told it was at 4mm and I had to replace them but it was really closer to 6mm after measuring. Driven over 6K miles after being told I had to replace them, and still no light on.

Now that I think about it, the story about having to send in brake pads to BMW and them checking for wear within spec for maintenance plans is BS, because California state law requires consumers be able to request the old parts

[Unicorn123]

Originally Posted by DrivingPassion

Thank you for the cautions. There are no corrosions or sticking pistons. The brakes worked fine. No wobbling or shaking when I depress the brakes.

I did use a brass brush to clean the crevices before I replaced the pads.

The replacement of pads were recommended by dealer because they were close to min thickness.

I'm planning to get the car to an indie mechanic to get the brakes flushed after I'm done with replacing the front rotors.

Passion, I expect we can all relate at some level here. Despite Maynard's excellent advice, personally, I really like working on my cars. I am not very mechanically inclined, but I, through many stripped screws, bolt heads, mis-understood torque specifications and a zillion other screwups over the years have become reasonably competent and can safely repair most items with some time and a decent internet video.... FWIW, accomplishing these tasks is quite rewarding and most of these repairs are really quite straightforward, barring corroded screws, mismatched hardware, previous hack jobs, etc. BTW, the brass brush was a great touch. I would encourage DIY work on your BMW in the future. People who are self-reliant and can repair a car themselves are becoming a rare commodity and considering the amount of time most people spend with their cars, it is a worthwhile pursuit if you have the time and inclination. Apologies in advance for being overly philosophical this evening! Go get'em

[DrivingPassion]

Originally Posted by EstorilM240

What I'm worried about is the brakes wearing to 4mm in one year and 10K miles. My guess is they weren't actually at 4mm, but they just quoted you that to sell you the brake service.

If you are in California (which you're not), state law requires that they give you the old brake pads - you can then inspect them and see if 4mm really meant 4mm, or it was 5mm, 6mm, or "time to sell some more brakes".

In my case, I was told it was at 4mm and I had to replace them but it was really closer to 6mm after measuring. Driven over 6K miles after being told I had to replace them, and still no light on.

Now that I think about it, the story about having to send in brake pads to BMW and them checking for wear within spec for maintenance plans is BS, because California state law requires consumers be able to request the old parts

Good point. I should measure the old ones.

[DrivingPassion]

Originally Posted by Unicorn123

Passion, I expect we can all relate at some level here. Despite Maynard's excellent advice, personally, I really like working on my cars. I am not very mechanically inclined, but I, through many stripped screws, bolt heads, mis-understood torque specifications and a zillion other screwups over the years have become reasonably competent and can safely repair most items with some time and a decent internet video.... FWIW, accomplishing these tasks is quite rewarding and most of these repairs are really quite straightforward, barring corroded screws, mismatched hardware, previous hack jobs, etc. BTW, the brass brush was a great touch. I would encourage DIY work on your BMW in the future. People who are self-reliant and can repair a car themselves are becoming a rare commodity and considering the amount of time most people spend with their cars, it is a worthwhile pursuit if you have the time and inclination. Apologies in advance for being overly philosophical this evening! Go get'em

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm intending to keep up with the repairs and maintenance and learn more along the way.

Same deal with reloading my own ammo. It was freedom when I learned how to reload effectively.

[DrivingPassion]

1. Rotor screw broke free: I finally got the old rotors to break free but remaining screw is still in hole. Tried all kinds of ways but cannot get it out. Having no screw to retain the rotor makes things a lot more difficult to remount the Brembo calipers onto the rotor because you have to hold the heavy rotor in place while you screw the 2 bolts onto the calipers.
2. Wrong rotor size: Apparently the Turner Motorsport website wasn't very accurate in guiding me to to buy the front rotors. The Zimermann ones I bought were too big even though the website said it will fit (370x30) the blue OEM Brembo M-Sports calipers. The bolt holes are like 1/4-3/4" away from the original hole. Looks like my blue Brembo calipers fits 340x30 rotors. Sigh ... I will have to find a way to return.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by DrivingPassion

Wrong rotor size: Apparently the Turner Motorsport website wasn't very accurate in guiding me to to buy the front rotors. The Zimermann ones I bought were too big even though the website said it will fit (370x30) the blue OEM Brembo M-Sports calipers.

I believe the OEM rotor sizes for the blue M-Sport brakes are: Front – 340x30, and Rear – 345x24.

[DrivingPassion]

Originally Posted by dradernh

I believe the OEM rotor sizes for the blue M-Sport brakes are: Front – 340x30, and Rear – 345x24.

You are correct. I learned this the hard way.