10-02-2014, 11:20 AM | #23 |
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I went to the store and bought it..... it fits pretty tight and it's not like you need a lot of pressure to take it in and out...but if you feel safer with the other one go for it
Ya I know oil will work.... just rather use the same oil for when i get the free oil changes...instead of switching brands |
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10-02-2014, 11:39 AM | #24 | |
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Drives: 325xi>M235i>428GCx Mspor
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10-22-2014, 05:07 PM | #25 |
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Just did this yesterday and put 7qts....check idrive today and still not 100% full. Maybe i drained it well (even got the oil out from the filter housing area)
My e90 n52 also took 7qts
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10-22-2014, 06:45 PM | #26 |
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Thanks guys for this info. I'm at 1500 miles, dealer says there is no need to do the oil change until 10k. I don't feel like wasting $120 with the dealer, when I can easily do it for half with BMW oil/filter. I'm looking at getting a scissor lift to make it easier for cleaning the wheels
Just curious, but How do you reset the 10k service interval, say if u were not in warranty ? |
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10-23-2014, 10:09 AM | #27 |
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12-02-2014, 12:24 PM | #28 | |
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05-06-2015, 12:59 PM | #29 |
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whats the torque on the drain plug?
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05-19-2015, 06:13 PM | #31 |
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I think it was 25N-m (or about 18.5 ft-lbs) same as the filter but should have to double check
Last edited by pikcachu; 05-19-2015 at 06:49 PM.. |
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05-22-2015, 02:22 PM | #32 |
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Has anyone used the new BMW branded Shell oil yet (5w30) ?
I changed to it today 7250 miles on the odometer. On a 3 series forum someone stated the dealers are still using Castrol for a particular reason - didn't sound correct dealers would still be using Castrol due to any type of manufacturer revommendation. Just curious if anyone has the Shell in their 235 or 228. |
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05-22-2015, 03:51 PM | #33 | |
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05-22-2015, 04:11 PM | #34 |
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06-21-2015, 03:28 PM | #36 |
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My oil change notification came on but I'm only at 5k miles. I've had the car for almost a year though. Will I run into issues having the dealer change the oil for free?
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06-21-2015, 04:05 PM | #37 |
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04-12-2016, 06:05 PM | #38 |
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I am rookie when it comes to working on a car. Can someone post step by step instructions on doing oil change ? Planning on doing this oil change when the mileage reaches 1K (after the break-in period).
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04-12-2016, 06:23 PM | #39 | |
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Do you have a floor jack or ramps? Wheel chocks? Do you have oil drain pan? Do you have a torque wrench and an oil filter wrench? And a flat hard surface to lift car on? Lifting a car to get underneath is the most important and dangerous task. Ramps may need to be specialized to work on a performance car with low approach height. |
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04-12-2016, 07:15 PM | #40 |
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What kind of tools do you have? Socket metric set? - i have general home repair tools. Yes, i have metric socket set.
Do you have a floor jack or ramps? Wheel chocks? - I Can borrow a pair of Rhino Ramps Do you have oil drain pan? - No Do you have a torque wrench and an oil filter wrench? - can borrow a torque wrench, no oil filter wrench (does a channellock pliers help ?) And a flat hard surface to lift car on? - yes i have a garage where i can work on. Last edited by toravir; 04-13-2016 at 12:17 AM.. |
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04-13-2016, 07:12 AM | #41 |
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Channellock with a towel as a intermediary so you don't gouge the plastic oil filter housing cap may work - but it could crack or mar the piece.
There is a cheap 40 some mm socket that is proprietary for removing the oil filter housing cap. The sump drain plug is somewhere around 13 - 14 mm give or take a few mm, just have a set of sockets for your ratchet drive to find the correct size to untighten. Access to the oil drain plug is through a flap door on the engine belly pan. I use a FORM A FUNNEL (http://formafunnel.com/) propped over the belly pan flap to guide warm or hot engine oil into a catch pan. The oil filte and oil filler cap need to be open to equalize pressure so the oil drains fully, or at least it seems to aid the draining process. Give about ten or fifteen minutes for the oil to drain, to the point where the drips are non-existent or nearly complete. When you take the oil drain plug off make sure you locate and discard the old drain plug gasket, the OEM filter kit comes with a new one and refit the new one when you hand tighten the drain plug back on. With a lower reading torque wrench slowly torque the drain plug bolt to 20NM. If you don't hand tighten it carefully at first or if you over tighten the bolt you can either strip or crack the oil belly pan. Then move to the oil filter and locate the gaskets on the oil filter cap central post and notice how far the filter protruded from it's mount so when you snap in new filter and (after removing old gaskets) install to a fully seated position the new gaskets that you have fully rubbed fresh engine oil onto. At this point use a bavauto video on YouTube or view a few of the many BMW owners or techs that have posted videos showing and explaining an oil change on the engine that you have. Finally a clean funnel for refilling the oil and some lint free mechanics rags for wiping up drips or wiping away dirt surrounding any caps before they are opened. And a small flat head screwdriver for removing old gaskets on the oil filter cap housing post. Also attempt to refill oil a quart to 1/2 a quart less then the engine needs so that you can use your iDrive oil level setting to get between the minimum and maximum reading. Too much oil or too little oil are both bad for the engine. |
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04-13-2016, 09:44 AM | #42 | |
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04-13-2016, 01:25 PM | #43 | |
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05-15-2016, 01:49 PM | #44 | |
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is there any other way other than taking the whole cover under the car ?? |
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