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      09-10-2017, 09:56 PM   #705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leeadam View Post
yeah the mystery solved...phew...oh next weekend im having another RR with this RC on...interesting to see if up in high 370s again

Oh Brexit,....we gonna need luck.
Let me clarify. The only reason I changed S1 to '2' was because that's what it showed as the stage 4 setting on the manual for RC Ultimate.

That said, not sure if it actually made any difference or not. The manual says its for "smoothness", whatever that means.

But I have an email from RC saying that I could try to hit 'F' on S2, and if I get a CEL error then I should just go back one setting. But I've been running S2=F for a couple weeks with no issues.
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      09-11-2017, 01:45 PM   #706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain_Commando View Post
Let me clarify. The only reason I changed S1 to '2' was because that's what it showed as the stage 4 setting on the manual for RC Ultimate.

That said, not sure if it actually made any difference or not. The manual says its for "smoothness", whatever that means.

But I have an email from RC saying that I could try to hit 'F' on S2, and if I get a CEL error then I should just go back one setting. But I've been running S2=F for a couple weeks with no issues.
Hi there, well again depends if your using the RC Pro 2 like mine - in which case you ONLy adjust S1. I have mine running at F currently.

But if you have the RC Ultimate you can adjust S1 and S2, if you have this one i cant give advice on settings as not had experience with it.

Hope that makes sense??
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      09-12-2017, 10:53 AM   #707
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another reply now from RaceChip Support. this should make it clear too now.
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      09-12-2017, 10:54 AM   #708
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      09-12-2017, 07:22 PM   #709
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Originally Posted by leeadam View Post
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Makes sense. I changed my S1 one notch anyways, but didn't see note any difference. On my S2, I also went from B to F with no problem and a fair increase in performance. Man I love Racechip!
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      09-19-2017, 06:53 AM   #710
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Installed the RC Pro 2 a week ago, on my M235i Manual LSD. Damn what a differance!
I was very dissapointed with the performance at first, with stock engine ( compared to my previous Cayman GTS). But now, Iīm more than satisfied! I will probablly go back to NA engine next year tho...
Currently factory settings B1.
Iīll wait for Leeadams results, and then turn it to probablly D1(?). I guess the fuelquality here in Sweden is pretty much as good as the UK...
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      10-02-2017, 06:37 AM   #711
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Update to my previous post:
I compared my M235i manual with RC pro2(D1 setting) vs Stock M135i Manual yesterday for an hour or so.
There was no differance at all at high revs (from aprox 4k-5k rpm). Cars pulled exactly the same!
Below 4k rpm there was a slightly differance. His M135i turbo spooled up faster than mine, but then my car pulled away very slow up to aprox 5k rpm. His car could touch my rear basically from 20km/h to 140km/h (started in gear 3).
Iīm now really dissapointed ofcourse. My car supposed to have 50+ more HP and a lot more torque. EDIT: His AirCon was ON.. My AC was OFF...
Any suggestions?

(I wrote in my previous post that I did feel a differance, but then I also only went up to maximum 5k rpm since the engine was not warm enough)

Below some performance numbers (not 100% accurate) Km/h:

Stock:
3 gear, 50-120: 06:30sec
4 gear, 50-120: 08:37

RC Pro 2:
3 gear, 50-120: 5:74
4 gear, 50-120: 07:89

13degrees celsius, dizzle, Gothenburg Sweden.

Again:
Any suggestions, how my friends stock M135i is as fast as my M235i RC pro2?

Last edited by aydeen; 10-02-2017 at 06:49 AM..
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      10-03-2017, 11:54 AM   #712
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Side by side racing with no timing equipment is not a great way to judge power differences, especially such a short race 20 km/h (12mph) to 140 km/h (85mph) and starting in 3rd.

Why would you start in 3rd in the first place? You should have been in 1st gear. Tunes to create more initial lag, especially in a high load situation when you're nearly at idle in 3rd and punch the gas. With the piggyback, the DME is likely freaking out and trying to figure out why so much boost is being commanded and is essentially trying to keep from blowing up the motor. That's likely why you're car was slower to react than the stock 135.

Try a roll race from around 40mph starting in 2nd gear and running up through the top of 3rd (about 110mph). I would think you'd walk him fairly decisively.

The lack of timing equipment is also a problem. if you guys don't leave at the same exact moment, it's pointless. Simply reacting 0.5 seconds slower than the stock 135 driver will largely negate any additional power your M235 has over his. This is why tracks have timing equipment.

For example, at the drag strip if you and your buddy have the same exact cars and mods, and you react 0.5 seconds lower than him at the start, you'll finish about 4 to 5 car lengths behind him even though both cars should theoretically run the same 1/4 mile time and mph. To an observer, your buddies car would appear quicker/faster.
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      10-03-2017, 03:24 PM   #713
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With all respect, I dont really agree with you to be honest. The 20-140km/h was just One exemple of all side by side/chasing we did. The reason why we started in 3rd was because Racechip them self advertise and give the information that the tune pro2 focus on torque/performance on lower rpm. The differance was minimal as mentioned. My car was slightly faster, but again my AC was off, his was on...
We also raced from 50 to 250km/h. He was 2-3meter in front of me starting from 50, I couldn’t catch him.
Seriously, with +50hp and +70Nm I should’ve killed him easly. Even with slow/bad shifting(which I dont have).
About the turbo-delay: My cars ”spool up” was slower even at higher rpm.
I have contacted My dealer, I Will get in touch with RC for a troubleshoot. Something seems to be wrong, if not; I Will return it.
Edit: I Will try the roll race you mention. I’ll get back to you with result.

Last edited by aydeen; 10-04-2017 at 07:04 AM..
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      10-04-2017, 03:03 PM   #714
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AC makes no difference as the compressor shuts off at 50%+ throttle.

If you're not starting the races in the right gear, then the extra lag this piggyback creates initially is killing you. YOU MUST start in the right gear. That's #1. #2 is that you must be side by side and start the race at the same time. All things considered, this tune isn't going to let you run away from him over such short races, especially ones where you're starting at too low an rpm and in the wrong gear. You're basically arranging the races to his car's benefit.

There's no getting around the laggy spool of a piggyback. It's the nature of the beast. Do a search and you'll see that all piggybacks do it and it's worse when punching it from a low rpm and tall gear. Additionally, it's worse if the piggyback is commanding a lot more boost than stock. The DME flakes out momentarily as it tries to compute the conflicting data. That's why there's more lag and in some cases, inconsistent power delivery. If you want more consistent power and less lag, then turn the power settings down a bit.

Last edited by XutvJet; 10-04-2017 at 03:09 PM..
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      10-05-2017, 02:43 AM   #715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
AC makes no difference as the compressor shuts off at 50%+ throttle.

If you're not starting the races in the right gear, then the extra lag this piggyback creates initially is killing you. YOU MUST start in the right gear. That's #1. #2 is that you must be side by side and start the race at the same time. All things considered, this tune isn't going to let you run away from him over such short races, especially ones where you're starting at too low an rpm and in the wrong gear. You're basically arranging the races to his car's benefit.

There's no getting around the laggy spool of a piggyback. It's the nature of the beast. Do a search and you'll see that all piggybacks do it and it's worse when punching it from a low rpm and tall gear. Additionally, it's worse if the piggyback is commanding a lot more boost than stock. The DME flakes out momentarily as it tries to compute the conflicting data. That's why there's more lag and in some cases, inconsistent power delivery. If you want more consistent power and less lag, then turn the power settings down a bit.
Thanks for the info. I didnīt know that the piggyboxes actually work that bad in lower rpm. The engine and turbopressure feels uneven and unpredicted right now, escpecially when driving normal/legal. And ofcourse this cannot be good for the engine, turbo and all control units.
But again; 50+HP is A LOT... The result shouldīve been much better.
Iīll turn in down to factory settings again.

Iīll wait and see what RC have to say about this.
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      10-12-2017, 06:36 AM   #716
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I must admit that on road side by side you wont notice dramatic (leave someone standing) performance, example .... guy at work has a 450 bhp M4 Comp, he cant loose me when we race home up long dual carriageway for couple of miles, even though he has over 65bhp on my RC 235.
i find mine pulls stronger with RC on from around 30 or 40 mph from low gear. I have another mate who had his 435d RR at same time as me his car was showing 400bhp with map, mine around 378bhp...but on road mine is a bit quicker, doesn't help his is Xdrive and bigger car..so outright straight line blasts dont show that much, its minimal. Get yours RR’d before and after to check, doesn't cost to much to get done.
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      10-16-2017, 06:15 AM   #717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leeadam View Post
I must admit that on road side by side you wont notice dramatic (leave someone standing) performance, example .... guy at work has a 450 bhp M4 Comp, he cant loose me when we race home up long dual carriageway for couple of miles, even though he has over 65bhp on my RC 235.
i find mine pulls stronger with RC on from around 30 or 40 mph from low gear. I have another mate who had his 435d RR at same time as me his car was showing 400bhp with map, mine around 378bhp...but on road mine is a bit quicker, doesn't help his is Xdrive and bigger car..so outright straight line blasts dont show that much, its minimal. Get yours RR’d before and after to check, doesn't cost to much to get done.
M135i JB4+DP vs M140i

The HP/Nm differance between these two cars are pretty much same as N55 RC Pro2 vs N55 Stock, and look how the M135 Jb4 running away from that M140i.

Anyway guys; I decided to return my RC Pro2. Why?
-Uneven turbo pressure.
-Uncertain engine power, pretty bad on lower rpm/normal driving.
-minimal/non top range gain ( from 4-5k to redline)
-Engine/turbo feels aggressive, which is not very satisfying when normal driving.

I tried both settings B1 and D1. It was worse in D1 for sure.
What was good with the RC Pro 2:
+Torque on low rpm. For example overtaking when driving 60mph+ in 6th gear was a very easy task.
+Turbo/BOV/Dump sound was increased, a lot actually. I liked it.
+Cheap!!
+Easy installation.
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      10-16-2017, 11:16 AM   #718
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The only way you're going to get stock-like power delivery is by:

1) Turning down the RC to a less aggressive setting. In general, the higher the power output, the more erratic the power delivery with a piggyback.

2) Have the DME flashed tuned.

3) Keep it stock and perhaps get a catted DP.


I plan on just doing a catted DP and Dinantronics Sport tuner and dialing to a 2.5 psi gain to preserve a similar OEM power delivery. Should be plenty fast for me. I'm done with all out power and worrying about someone being faster.
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      10-31-2017, 06:31 AM   #719
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Hey guys,

I've been running the RC Ultimate on my 435i (N55) for the last 3 months with awesome results. Turned up the S2 setting another 4 notches (from stock B to F) and had no issues or CEL.

I installed a BMS intake over the weekend and the only difference (as expected) was turbo spooling noise upon acceleration. Today, I just had a catless downpipe installed, and on my first pull attempt, there was extreme hesitation when flooring the throttle. The throttle response was also very jerky and inconsistent. So I lowered the S2 setting to E and it seemed to help somewhat. I then further lowered it to D and seems to have yielded yet more improvement. However, there is still extreme hesitation if I go WOT from a rolling start. Eventually the car responds, but that delay is almost a couple seconds long.

Should I give the RC/ECU some time to adapt to the new pipe, or is this behavior indicative of S2 setting still too high? FWIW, it doesn't feel like I got any more power due to the downpipe...in fact it feels like I've lost power, though maybe it only feels that way because of the extreme hesitation.
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      11-01-2017, 06:39 AM   #720
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Hi guys,

I eventually fixed the issue, thought I'd report my solution.

I first tried unplugging the MAF sensor. This made the car run even worse. So I plugged it back in, and unplugged the Racechip. This immediately smoothed out the ride (sans the extra power that Racechip used to provide of course). So that confirmed that Racechip was the culprit.

Thereafter, I dialed down switches S2 and S1 all the way to stock settings, and there was no more jerkiness/hesitation. Then I experimented with half a dozen different settings before eventually settling on B1 (stock as B0). Increasing S2 any more resulted in little more than the turbo spooling louder (too loud in fact, sounded like the car was wheezing and out of breath)...and increasing S1 any further made the throttle response jerky.

Cheers.
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      11-14-2017, 04:37 AM   #721
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If anyone interested im selling my racechip box as sold car, still in box all instructions and cables. my car ran around 380 bhp on RR with this. Ģ140
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      11-23-2017, 09:05 AM   #722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aydeen View Post
M135i JB4+DP vs M140i

The HP/Nm differance between these two cars are pretty much same as N55 RC Pro2 vs N55 Stock, and look how the M135 Jb4 running away from that M140i.

Anyway guys; I decided to return my RC Pro2. Why?
-Uneven turbo pressure.
-Uncertain engine power, pretty bad on lower rpm/normal driving.
-minimal/non top range gain ( from 4-5k to redline)
-Engine/turbo feels aggressive, which is not very satisfying when normal driving.

I tried both settings B1 and D1. It was worse in D1 for sure.
What was good with the RC Pro 2:
+Torque on low rpm. For example overtaking when driving 60mph+ in 6th gear was a very easy task.
+Turbo/BOV/Dump sound was increased, a lot actually. I liked it.
+Cheap!!
+Easy installation.
Update: Installed decat + proper ECU remap from a local tuning company. Now my car easily running away from that stock M135i. Same(or even better) as video above. Probably faster than a M3/M4 as well.

Conclusion: Donīt waste your money on a RC box. Spend some extra money and do a proper ECU tune/remap. Or leave it stock.
The tuning company will save the OEM software and they can easily change the map if you decide to sell the car etc.

What surprises me is how smooth and nice the engine is running now, much better than stock. The torque is insane.. Im glad I have the LSD

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      04-27-2018, 06:27 PM   #723
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Selling Racechip Ultimate

Selling my Racechip Ultimate out of the M235i. Nothing but good experience with this little guy, exactly what the car needed. Its in great condition, no problems, fully working. $300 OBO. PM for details. Located in Los Angeles.





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      04-27-2018, 06:43 PM   #724
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Selling race chip ultimate

I have had my Race Chip ultimate for sale on the classifieds for a while now. $190 including shipping if anyone is interested.

Thanks.
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