04-08-2018, 12:17 PM | #1 |
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Which battery charger is suitable for flashing?
I'm looking at a few on Amazon. It's not exactly clear which one I should buy though. Would either of these do?
STANLEY BC15BS 15 Amp Bench Battery Charger with 40 Amp Engine Start and Alternator Check https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BM51QD6..._V0KYAbNK8RTQ4 NOCO Genius G750 6V/12V .75A UltraSafe Smart Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LX3AS6..._i4KYAbAVKAW0W Schumacher SE-82-6 Dual-Rate 2/6 Amp Manual Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IBJBM..._G6KYAb0JG3QKD
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04-08-2018, 03:10 PM | #2 |
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honestly if your using it strictly for flashing any normal battery charger will do. many people flash their cars without a charger installed. as long as your battery state of charge is good you should be fine. that being said I would recommend a charger just in case some sort of which craft happens with the electronics.
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04-08-2018, 04:04 PM | #3 |
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I just bought this Dewalt 30 amp:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Before this one I used an old 10 amp Sears charger and never had an issue. Taunto is probably right that for the short duration flashes these low amperage chargers are good as long as your battery is not depleted.
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04-08-2018, 04:08 PM | #4 | |
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04-08-2018, 04:57 PM | #5 |
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Okay, I think I'm gonna go with the Stanley.
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04-08-2018, 04:58 PM | #6 |
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Crap, I just noticed that it ships in 4-5 MONTHS. No thanks lol. Went with the 25a instead.
STANLEY BC25BS 25 Amp Bench Battery Charger with 75 Amp Engine Start and Alternator Check https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYFSUJW..._7fPYAbKA8TG2E
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04-09-2018, 04:12 PM | #8 |
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For what its worth, I was doing some audio tuning last night on my DSP with my charger hooked up and set to 2amps. After about 30 mins I got a low battery warning and a CEL and then my car turned off saying it should be driven for longer periods. I cranked the charger up to 20amps and had no problems for the 2/3 hours I was tuning.
Moral of the story, 2 amps is not enough to keep our cars charged for longer than 30 mins. |
04-10-2018, 12:46 PM | #9 |
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Also FWIW, my M235 takes 22 amps off my charger with lights / climate control / audio off. Trickle chargers that put out on the order of a couple of amps aren't going to do anything if you are going to be coding for a while.
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04-10-2018, 12:54 PM | #10 |
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These jump packs look like a big LiION battery. Don't know what model you have, but one I looked at had a 24 Ah battery and could put out 10 amps at 12 volts out one of the ports. If the jump port could provide this it would certainly be better than nothing. My recommendation would be a bigger charger that could source closer to 20 amps.
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04-10-2018, 01:04 PM | #11 | |
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05-03-2018, 01:43 PM | #13 |
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Oops, sorry. Went well. Pretty easy process overall. I had an issue once, but it's been resolved. awesome product for sure.
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05-11-2018, 07:09 AM | #14 |
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Also - FYI, when using a charger, connect it directly to the battery in the trunk area instead of the lugs in the engine compartment. Works much better that way.
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05-11-2018, 09:28 AM | #15 |
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Do you have a reason for that? Not saying you're wrong just curious since I've always used the lugs in the engine bay and they work just fine. There's at least 2 AWG wire running up there which should easily handle 20amps at that length.
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05-11-2018, 10:40 AM | #16 | |
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05-11-2018, 08:23 PM | #17 |
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Not true.
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05-12-2018, 08:02 AM | #18 |
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Yes - after doing the install of a flash tune on a friend's car that took about 2 hours to complete, the car's battery was unable to start the car, despite having a charger connected to the lugs during the process. Even using the 50 amp "start car" setting, it wouldn't work. Connecting the charger direct to the battery allowed the car to start. Apparently, the 15-amp charger didn't keep the battery up while connected to the lugs during the software download. This was on a 2012 Z4 35i with its original battery. Could also be that since the charger was several years old, it wasn't adequate for the job.
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05-14-2018, 07:47 AM | #19 | |
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