[rickd]

Sup gents?

I took the M240i to Laguna Seca this past Saturday and what a day, if you haven't been to a track day, go period.

I'm going to pick up the Dinan camber plates and looking at squaring out the car a bit or at least getting larger front tires.

Has anyone done this? I know that the 245/35's won't fit in the front, wondering what's the max I can go to?

Anyone?
Thanks,
rickd

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by rickd

Sup gents?

I took the M240i to Laguna Seca this past Saturday and what a day, if you haven't been to a track day, go period.

I'm going to pick up the Dinan camber plates and looking at squaring out the car a bit or at least getting larger front tires.

Has anyone done this? I know that the 245/35's won't fit in the front, wondering what's the max I can go to?

Anyone?
Thanks,
rickd

245-40-17 all around works well with the m4 LCAs

[jmwilson125]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

245-40-17 all around works well with the m4 LCAs

Don't you run some pretty light and cheap wheels pika? Kosei? I 2as thinking about those for a track dedicated set

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by jmwilson125

Don't you run some pretty light and cheap wheels pika? Kosei? I 2as thinking about those for a track dedicated set

yeah the K4R... not sure if they are still available

[XutvJet]

I'll be able to run 245/35r18 in the front with my Alutec Drive 18X8 wheels. I'm currently running the OEM MPSS staggered tires, but I have fitted the 245/35R18s in the front and drove around and measured the clearance between the tire and strut housing. No issues at all. No rubbing on full lock, going up curbs at full lock (or not), driving around, etc. I believe there's a little less than 10mm of clearance between the tire and strut. No clearance issues with wheel well panels either.

[CP911]

I have yet to track my m240i, but very much looking forward to doing so. Not sure how many events I will attend this year, but at the very least will be doing the PCA HPDE again @ VIR in November. No plans to mod for now, however, other than replacing brake fluid with Motul RBF660. Just want to see what the car can do in stock form and then will go slowly from there. First will be the M LSD and some brake pads, then maybe wheels and tires. Going to try my hardest to avoid any further mods like suspension, camber plates, etc. until the car is well out of warranty or I get so into chasing times that I justify it. No trophies in HPDE and there will always be a faster car on the track, so my plan is to just do the best I can with what this m240i will give me and enjoy the smiles!

[rickd]

I did pull the trigger on the Dinan camber plates today, the car has way too much positive camber and those plates will definitely fix that.

The car only has 9K on it and have attached a pic of the wear on my front tires. I'm going to have to flip the tire to get some extra life out of them, they are stock MPSS's.

Good stuff XutvJet, I'll have to look at those.

Thanks for the help!
rickd

[XutvJet]

If you plan on racing a lot, you will need something to correct the front camber or else you'll destroy the tires. Keep in mind the MPSS tires are not track tires so they will die a quick death on the track. A true race tire will survive a lot better, even without a camber change. Lastly, expect noise and clunking with any camber plate. Promise.

[Dylan86]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

I'll be able to run 245/35r18 in the front with my Alutec Drive 18X8 wheels. I'm currently running the OEM MPSS staggered tires, but I have fitted the 245/35R18s in the front and drove around and measured the clearance between the tire and strut housing. No issues at all. No rubbing on full lock, going up curbs at full lock (or not), driving around, etc. I believe there's a little less than 10mm of clearance between the tire and strut. No clearance issues with wheel well panels either.

On an 8" wheel, I'd go with 235/40, more options out there and minimal clearance issues. I plan on running some Cup2's in 235/40 on my 18x9 arc8's on my first few shakedowns on the new track setup. A 245/35 would work as well, but not too many options for slick radials or Cup2, etc, from what I've found?

The ideal size for 18x9.5 is 255-265. 18x9 is 255/35 & 235/40 and the ideal size for 18x8-8.5 is 235/40, from the boys at Apex. Does not mean you can't run a 245/35, it'll be very close on the outer diameter either way.

If I didn't go 18x9, I would have went 18x8.5 et45 square, as per Apex's recommendation for the F22, and run the 235/40 slicks all day long without issues. But since I decided to go a bit further with the setup/adjust-ability, I figured I'd get the most from the car by using the 255 section tire, square..

[rickd]

Good stuff thanks!

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by rickd

Sup gents?

I took the M240i to Laguna Seca this past Saturday and what a day, if you haven't been to a track day, go period.

I'm going to pick up the Dinan camber plates and looking at squaring out the car a bit or at least getting larger front tires.

Has anyone done this? I know that the 245/35's won't fit in the front, wondering what's the max I can go to?

Anyone?
Thanks,
rickd

255s will fit with the right setup.

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=638

Originally Posted by XutvJet

If you plan on racing a lot, you will need something to correct the front camber or else you'll destroy the tires. Keep in mind the MPSS tires are not track tires so they will die a quick death on the track. A true race tire will survive a lot better, even without a camber change. Lastly, expect noise and clunking with any camber plate. Promise.

Incorrect, any aggressive tire or R comp will have significantly less life than the stock MPSS tire on the track or street.

Originally Posted by CP911

I have yet to track my m240i, but very much looking forward to doing so. Not sure how many events I will attend this year, but at the very least will be doing the PCA HPDE again @ VIR in November. No plans to mod for now, however, other than replacing brake fluid with Motul RBF660. Just want to see what the car can do in stock form and then will go slowly from there. First will be the M LSD and some brake pads, then maybe wheels and tires. Going to try my hardest to avoid any further mods like suspension, camber plates, etc. until the car is well out of warranty or I get so into chasing times that I justify it. No trophies in HPDE and there will always be a faster car on the track, so my plan is to just do the best I can with what this m240i will give me and enjoy the smiles!

I've ran lots of RBF600. Great fluid. I suggest doing brake pads with the fluid. The OEM pads will not hold up to any aggressive driving. Have fun chasing laptimes...I give you 6 months before you have a whole new suspension and wheel/tire setup

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by Anthony235

Incorrect, any aggressive tire or R comp will have significantly less life than the stock MPSS tire on the track or street.

On the street MPSS tyres will definitely outlast extreme performance tyres such as RE71Rs or Direzza Star Spec, but on the track they overheat easily, become greasy and wear very quickly. On my Z4M I would get double the life on the same track and same conditions with Direzza Star Specs compared with MPSSs. The Star Specs would also not go “off” like the MPSSs when very hot.

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by aerobod

On the street MPSS tyres will definitely outlast extreme performance tyres such as RE71Rs or Direzza Star Spec, but on the track they overheat easily, become greasy and wear very quickly. On my Z4M I would get double the life on the same track and same conditions with Direzza Star Specs compared with MPSSs. The Star Specs would also not go “off” like the MPSSs when very hot.

Also the main problem with the PSS is that you will destroy the shoulders but still have 70% of tread on the rest of the tire

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

Also the main problem with the PSS is that you will destroy the shoulders but still have 70% of tread on the rest of the tire

With -1.6 degrees and zero toe-in on the front of my Z4M the outer shoulder wear wasn’t too excessive, but I can imagine it would be with most stock road suspension settings.

[NISFAN]

Front shoulder wear is largely driver style related. (Trail braking or excessive understeer).

These cars already come with negative camber, and a McPherson strut, when loaded gives additional negative camber, lots of it.

.....but feel free to buy hardware to compensate for the software

These cars do need rear dampers though. Fitting bump stops to be part of normal suspension travel is the crime of the century. Get rid.

[Anthony235]

Originally Posted by aerobod

On the street MPSS tyres will definitely outlast extreme performance tyres such as RE71Rs or Direzza Star Spec, but on the track they overheat easily, become greasy and wear very quickly. On my Z4M I would get double the life on the same track and same conditions with Direzza Star Specs compared with MPSSs. The Star Specs would also not go “off” like the MPSSs when very hot.

Your experiences differ from mine. Any tire that has gone through multiple heat cycles where wear faster and faster than they originally did and get greasy earlier each session.

Star spec is a good tire. Used to run it on my s2000 back in the day.

[cxp213]

^ I don't know if tires necessarily wear faster, but they definitely lose the pliability and grip with more heat cycles.


Street tire compounds are designed to be harder, to last, and to withstand varying temp cycles. They just don't generate enough heat or friction to scrub off the meat as fast as softer compounds found on aggressive tires, so I'm not sure how some of you are reporting higher rate of wear on the street tires. As for accelerated shoulder wear, in addition to minimal negative camber of the car, street tires tend to have more rollover because they don't have as stiff of sidewalls as those that are used in competition, exchanging handling for comfort.

[tripitz]

With all of the talk about tires, I guess my "wisdom" is that there is no cheap way to track your car. When I was a rookie, I used to think moving to more track focused tires would make them last longer; nope.. you end up going faster and burn through them at a fast rate. There is no win-win here. RE71rs do not last very long. In AER a lot of teams are running Direzza Z2s as they seem to last the longest, at the expense of grip. Curious what the new version will be like. As said before, if you don't want to kill your street tires, get more braking done in your straights and understeer or trail brake less.

Definitely get track pads. OEM pads will disintegrate very quickly. VIR has a lot of fast straights where you will be moving; coming down from speed is going to eat those pads up very quickly.

[rickd]

Ha! I'm looking at the KW stuff now.

[rickd]

Originally Posted by Anthony235

255s will fit with the right setup.

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=638




Incorrect, any aggressive tire or R comp will have significantly less life than the stock MPSS tire on the track or street.



I've ran lots of RBF600. Great fluid. I suggest doing brake pads with the fluid. The OEM pads will not hold up to any aggressive driving. Have fun chasing laptimes...I give you 6 months before you have a whole new suspension and wheel/tire setup

Ha! I'm looking at the KW stuff now.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by tripitz

With all of the talk about tires, I guess my "wisdom" is that there is no cheap way to track your car.

^This. I'll also add the running racecar parts and setups on full blown street cars tend to be full of compromises. Things like adjustable camber plates, pillow ball suspension parts, high durometer bushings, thick sway bars, stiff springs and shocks, most coilovers, aggressive tire alignments, and sticky wide tires can all greatly enhance the handling and limits of a car on a track, but for street driving, those modifications can create a lot of NVH, a harsh ride, and spooky handling on bigger bumps typically encountered on the street, and/or frightening handling when race focused tires aren't fully warm.

Some famous race car driver once said that when tuning a performance/race suspension, you start as soft and compliant as possible and work you're way up rather than starting out stiff and intolerant and working your way back. Way too many people (and even automakers) think stiff and rough = performance and soft and rolling = crap handling. That could not be farther from the truth.

If I were to track/auto-x my M235, I would definitely have a set of race specific wheels and tires. I'd never run my street setup because it's just too expensive to do it that way because you kill the street tires way too quickly, even with improved camber. Sure, you can run a race focused tire on the street, but they're scary as fark when cold and wear out incredibly fast on the street. Look at all these new GM and Ford performance cars running "wonder" tires to generate insane levels of handling and mag racing bragging rights. Little do these owners realize these wonder tires will last about 4,000 miles or so on the street.

Car modifications are full of compromise. It's give and take.

[tripitz]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

Car modifications are full of compromise. It's give and take.

I would also say that the car needs to be a system; brakes, suspension, tires, driver. Have to work on all elements and slowly move them up.

I got to the point where I realized something was going to happen and went for a dedicated track/race car. Much nicer enjoying my street cars now!

I think the thing I love about my 228i is that with the all seasons and the 4 cylinder, the limits are pretty low. I can enjoy the car... My AMG is just too capable to really enjoy for street driving and way too nice of a car to track the way I track... (also only go out with full safety gear on nowadays).