[pz619]

Originally Posted by Rayscott

Use a magic eraser to remove the film caused by the out gassing of the plasticizers contained in the dash. Then use a glass cleaner without ammonia. I do this in my detailing business. No film.

Isn't magic eraser somewhat abrasive? I was always told it can cause scratches despite being soft to the touch. Not sure if that's an old wives tale or not.

[B_Rice]

Originally Posted by pz619

Isn't magic eraser somewhat abrasive? I was always told it can cause scratches despite being soft to the touch. Not sure if that's an old wives tale or not.

Yeah they're a micro abrasive. They clean, but they to remove some material.

[B_Rice]

I just use a soft filtered water pressure washer on my car every week and maybe actually wash my car every month. Owned the car for a year and a half and no swirl marks!

When I do have to wash
-pressure wash
-wait 10 mins
-pressure wash again
-lots of soap
-wash
-pressure wash
-wash again
-pressure wash

[crabu2]

any of you use steel wool to clean your glass?

[Apollo18]

Bucket wash ftw

[Rayscott]

Originally Posted by USA-RET

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, that I use a car blow drier to sheet the majority of the water off the car and blow water from behind license plate, mirrors, trunk lids, etc, then followup with Mirco fiber towels.

I've used an electric leaf blower and now have a dedicated car blower, but in all honesty, Leaf blower worked just fine although a bit ungainly.

You'd be amazed at how little water is left to wipe up using a blower initially.

I have a blower on the other end on my Metro vacuum. It does a great job.

[Rayscott]

Originally Posted by pz619

Isn't magic eraser somewhat abrasive? I was always told it can cause scratches despite being soft to the touch. Not sure if that's an old wives tale or not.

Yes, old wives tale. Works great on glass. I have detailed over 300 vehicles with no issues. It also works on scuffs on lower door panels and door sills. Just don't be aggressive and you will be fine.

[DaleHeinz]

I'll second the chemical guys snow foamer (with stripper scent soap) and Griots waxes, polishes, and detailing sprays. They also have some good micro fiber towels. Their wheel cleaner is decent, but I'm sure there is better out there. For interior, I use a damp micro fiber and a touch of armor all interior cleaning spray. It's not greasy or slick like their other crap. Leaves surfaces like new with little to no cleaning odor. For leather, I've had good results with blue magic leather cleaner. When I had my Audi S4, the leather cleaner they gave me for the napa leather was great. Not sure where they sourced it from. Just had the Audi logo on it.

[RitaClark]

Originally Posted by Sportstick

http://adamspolishes.com/
https://automobiledecor.com/best-car-drying-towels/

But, I never wax...Opticoat Pro or CQuartz once when new....then just some H2O Guard and Gloss after a hand wash.

Looks like you're about 10 minutes away from me. Feel free to PM for more info.

Thanks for the suggestion. I am looking quality Adams polishing kit. Would you please suggest me a good one under $50.

[Sportstick]

Originally Posted by RitaClark

Thanks for the suggestion. I am looking quality Adams polishing kit. Would you please suggest me a good one under $50.

Taking your word, "polishing" literally, I'm not a good source. Polishing is an abrasive process and with the ceramic coating and applications of sealant, I never use polish. But, if you want to pursue that, peruse Adam's website. I have never been disappointed in any of their products. They have periodic special deals so it's worth checking and getting on their e-mail list.

[Rayscott]

I own a detailing business. You never polish over a ceramic coating. That is what you pay big $$$ for. My supplier is www.detailedimage.com. Their pros prep vehicles at both Mecum and Barrett-Jackson before they go on stage. Lots of info on anything related to detailing with great videos from their pros.

[1FUNCAR]

Never thought about the magic eraser on inside windows. I've always used vinegar and water with newspapers. I get good results that way.

[amw896]

I had mine detailed over 2 years ago and coated with cquartz. I've only been doing weekly washes with optimum no rinse and the car still looks brand new. Highly recommend both products.

[MarcoZandrini]

Originally Posted by 1FUNCAR

Never thought about the magic eraser on inside windows. I've always used vinegar and water with newspapers. I get good results that way.

I make my own "windex."
- 60% water
- 20% vinegar
- 20 alcohol

I add 8 drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid into a 2l bottle of the mix. Never streaks with an old, 100% cotton t-shirt.

[CP911]

I finally washed my 2er for the first time today. I looked at quite a few products before buying the following for my first attempt (Amazon makes it too easy to gear up for things like this!):

- Sonax Car Wash Shampoo
- Sonax Wheel Cleaner
- Sonax Microfiber Drying Cloths
- 3x Chemical Guys bucket w/ Cyclone Dirt Trap insert at the bottom + Grit Guard insert right above that.
- Chemical Guys 2-sided sponge (This seems to finally be the sponge I've been waiting for...never had any luck with other mits or sponges on my previous sports cars. This one didn't fall apart on the 1st wash and was super efficient and easy on the paint. Holds just the right amount of water and suds and glides effortlessly across the paint. Seems well made.)
- Gilmore brand foaming spray gun (This thing worked great! Can't image why anyone would want to bust out the power washer and spend more money on a fancier foam cannon.)

As for my washing method, I just do a pretty thorough 2-bucket wash (3rd bucket is to hold wheel cleaner bottle and hose attachments as I take them on and off). Exact steps below:

1. Spray whole car down with Sonax shampoo using the foam gun.
2. Initial rinse/spray off with regular pistol style spray nozzle to get major grit off of paint (Found great spray nozzle @ Autozone that has fine adjustment of water pattern and doesn't spray with too much force)
3. Re-spray whole car with foam gun and let it sit while I perform the next 2 steps
4. Spray wheels with wheel cleaner
5. Rinse off wheels only to get more grit/brake dust off of them
6. Using the chenille-fingered side of the sponge, I start at roof and work my way down windshield to hood, then windows/mirrors/doors/trunk lid, front and rear bumpers, rocker panels.
7. Then, using a different sponge than the one used on the paintwork, I do a more detailed cleaning of the wheels.
8. Final rinse
9. Dry

Now, it was a decent 1st attempt, but I ran into 2 issues:

1. My lovely wife decided to put $60 worth of Sonax microfiber drying towels in the dryer, making me nervous that she used high heat and possibly melted some of the soft fibers into more abrasive plastic-y fibers. I figured better safe than sorry on my new car's paint, so I scrapped them and busted out the Ryobi battery-powered leaf blower. It did a pretty sorry job without the proper blower tip attachment (I had to take off the long tip as it would have surely led to me hitting the car with it), and as a result, I ended up with quite a few light water spots.

Question: What do people use for removal of these light water/suds spots in order to avoid having to re-wash the entire car? Is this where a liquid "quick detail" spray comes in handy? If so, will a hand-applied Carnauba wax still adhere to paintwork and remain effective even after a quick detail spray is used beforehand to get all the water spots off? Or can the wax be used as a cleaner/detailer in place of the quick detail spray i.e. can you safely wax over some lighter water spots to remove them as you buff out the wax?

2. The friggin' wheels were still dirty in several nooks and crannies.

Question: What can I use to get in the nooks and crannies between all the spokes that won't be too abrasive on the clear coat? A wheel brush with long bristles honestly seems like it might work the best, but I dunno - those wheel brushes make me nervous as far as how kind they are to the wheel finish. I'm thinking a typical microfiber rag might be best for the wheel detailing...thoughts?

Good thread, by the way!

[overcoil]

Check out a product called Evaporate from Jay Leno Advanced Care - other companies make similar products. Also the final rinse should be water coming out of a hose with no attachments, just a smooth flow off water. And after drying with a towel or blower maybe a Detail Spray and microfiber touch up on any remaining water. So that is what I recommend for water spots.

I like just to use a thin quality car detailing sponge or applicator pad and use car wash soap to rub all the wheel surfaces and brake caliper surface within reach. I wear rubber gloves and can reach all the inner surface of the inner wheel except where brake caliper is in way. I find no shortcut to doing wheels and I do them first.

The Sonax wheel cleaner is great for moving brake dust that is baked into the surface and won't rub off with soap and water or even polish and wax.

[desather13]

Originally Posted by USA-RET

Certainly living in a private home w/ driveway, hose hook-up w/nozzles, bucket w/ soapy water and the time to do it makes live so much easier. Cannot imagine how difficult it is if living in a apartment of condo.

Many a morning, w/ nothing else to do, I'l wander into the garage and hit the hood, roof and boot w/ a quick detailer and wipe the front wheels down.

Honestly, the hardest thing I find to keep clean are the windows. No matter what I use or how many times I wipe them down with "Invisible Glass" and then buff with a wash clothe, when I'd get the sun hitting the windshield just right I see all these smears and wipe marks.

Going way back to the 60;s there was a product called "Bon Ami", you applied it w/ a moist towel and it was like baking soda going on.. Let it dry and buff it off and the windows were spotless. Only downside was the white powder residue after the buff.

Just waxing nostalgic. No pun intended.................

I hear ya on the windows. You might already use this, but Griots window cleaner and there window microfiber towels will not lose to any other window product I have found. Park her in the sun in the morning/afternoon and you can clean everything you see, no streaks or marks!

[Rayscott]

Originally Posted by desather13

I hear ya on the windows. You might already use this, but Griots window cleaner and there window microfiber towels will not lose to any other window product I have found. Park her in the sun in the morning/afternoon and you can clean everything you see, no streaks or marks!

The smearing on the inside windows is caused by the out gassing of the plasticizers on most interior surfaces. When using just glass cleaner all you are doing is moving the smears around. I wipe the glass with a dry MF towel, then use a magic eraser or a good glass polish followed with a good window cleaner then buffed with a dry MF towel. My detailing supplier has a triangular extended device that you place your towels on attached to a handle which enables you to reach the front and rear glass much easier especially the corners. I use it on all of my customers glass when detailing. Never a complaint.

[bryan_G01]

Chemical Guys foam gun + 2 bucket, snow foam, clay bar + juice, sealer, g-tech, hydrosilex

In that order and feel your paint, or pour water on it.